dennis Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 When you are on it you move pretty fast Dennis, I say do everything you want to do to the engine bay done before you drop that jewel in there. Especially with how clean everything is going to look. You don,t want to give a girl an engagement ring in a paper bag. :lol: Damn, didnt know you responded to this thread scott. I was at a stand still for a few days since I am waiting on parts to come in. This came in today, it is an S14 throttle body pulley. You have to run a S14 pulley when you add a Greddy style intake manifold. I do not have the throttle cable bracket on top of the manifold yet so its off to ebay. (you can view this photo as a reference on how to not mount your S14 pulley, if you flip this pulley it will be mounted correctly) Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 keep going you might be done before me Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 keep going you might be done before me I doubt it. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Either way you are both trailblazing for me :) yes sir!! I picked up a GReddy plenum for the pulsar N15 TB and now that 70mm POS is impossible to get. Didn't know we needed an S14 piece. Love you guys!! Quote Link to comment
paramedicopace Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 That looks real good!!!!!! Love the build I will follow this for sure, love them yellow 4 doors. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Either way you are both trailblazing for me :) yes sir!! I picked up a GReddy plenum for the pulsar N15 TB and now that 70mm POS is impossible to get. Didn't know we needed an S14 piece. Love you guys!! that TB is expensive as hell. You should have just picked up a Q45 TB if you are shooting for high HP. Or you could have picked up a 70mm generic billet one too. How much power are you wanting? Have you driven in a stock S13 SR20DET in a 510? It has plenty of power stock!!!! Im gonna go GT2860RS and 570cc injectors and call it a day. That should net me 350whp. This wont happen till i get it running and reliable, working out all the bugs. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 that TB is expensive as hell. You should have just picked up a Q45 TB if you are shooting for high HP. Or you could have picked up a 70mm generic billet one too. How much power are you wanting? Have you driven in a stock S13 SR20DET in a 510? It has plenty of power stock!!!! Im gonna go GT2860RS and 570cc injectors and call it a day. That should net me 350whp. This wont happen till i get it running and reliable, working out all the bugs. Ah yeah, I was naive and ambitious. I have yet to drive in an sr'd 510. Sad to say, but true. I was excited, I jumped in and started buying before researching and made a bad decision. That being said, you are absolutely right that TB is way too expensive to even give consideration. I am going to try and find a generic TB to use over the plenum, but because it isn't the standard GReddy one, I may have to do a little fab work. Half the fun right? After reading and reading I decided that high HP in our cars was silly. All I am really aiming for is something in the mid to high 300's, but I would sacrifice power for responsiveness any day. The original plan was a GT2871R with a .64 A/R housing. It was bolt on to the T25 flange, but I think I am going to go with the disco potato (that is the GT2860RS right?). It has a faster spool and is supposed to be more responsive with slightly less hp than the GT2871R. And even a couple of hundred cheaper which is also a plus. Still using the T25 and .64 A/R with that setup though. More than enough I think. I start final engine assembly saturday and I cannot wait. Any good recommendations on engine assembly lube?? I was going to go with royal purple and then a non synthetic engine oil, but am still reading. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Ah yeah, I was naive and ambitious. I have yet to drive in an sr'd 510. Sad to say, but true. I was excited, I jumped in and started buying before researching and made a bad decision. That being said, you are absolutely right that TB is way too expensive to even give consideration. I am going to try and find a generic TB to use over the plenum, but because it isn't the standard GReddy one, I may have to do a little fab work. Half the fun right? After reading and reading I decided that high HP in our cars was silly. All I am really aiming for is something in the mid to high 300's, but I would sacrifice power for responsiveness any day. The original plan was a GT2871R with a .64 A/R housing. It was bolt on to the T25 flange, but I think I am going to go with the disco potato (that is the GT2860RS right?). It has a faster spool and is supposed to be more responsive with slightly less hp than the GT2871R. And even a couple of hundred cheaper which is also a plus. Still using the T25 and .64 A/R with that setup though. More than enough I think. I start final engine assembly saturday and I cannot wait. Any good recommendations on engine assembly lube?? I was going to go with royal purple and then a non synthetic engine oil, but am still reading. Disco Potato is where its at and yes it is the GT2860RS. I have used Permatex and Redline assy lube and never had any issues. At the rate you are going, you will have your 510 SR'ed before mine. I'm slow, everytime I find something minor I fix it. Example, I was removing the rear tail light lens because the previous owner put in a different lens off of something. Then I found out that it needed a whole new housing because it was riveted together. To top it off he used window sealant as gaskets for the housings. Needless to say two weeks later and my wallet $170.00 lighter it will be fixed. Just waiting on the gaskets and housings to arrive. Get this, when I get those stupid housings in I will clean the shit out of them and then polish the lenses if they are still good and the stainless trim. Say goodbye to another week. Oh, I still have to clean out the black gunk from my mounting holes too. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 I ran a z32 maf, deuchwerks 550's, Nistune ECU and a ForcedPerformance Big28 in my 240sx at 18psi. It was an animal with that setup. The Big28 is a nice little Turbo that's pulls hard to 7500rpm. I figured around 300 realible whp with that setup. I found, one used for cheap. Josh- Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 I ran a z32 maf, deuchwerks 550's, Nistune ECU and a ForcedPerformance Big28 in my 240sx at 18psi. It was an animal with that setup. The Big28 is a nice little Turbo that's pulls hard to 7500rpm. I figured around 300 realible whp with that setup. I found, one used for cheap. Josh- Josh, did you do the tune yourself with your Nistune ECU? Did you find a base map for your setup? I am interested in this route and I am just curious on how easy it is to tune. Oh, did you have yours tuned on a dyno? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Pete from plms sent me a base tune that was almost spot on. He sells the USB consult cable. I then tuned it the rest of the way myself on the back roads of Maui (lived there at the time) using a innovative lc1 and the nistune software. Next time I will have it tuned on a load dyno with a knock sensor to make sure the timing map is spot on. The SR needs a lot of timing during spool up and needs it pulled real fast as it reaches boost. You can only do this correctly with a skilled tuner that knows sr's. Pete is pretty sharp but is unfortunately in Australia.... If you find a Nistune dealer they can tune it for you without you having to buy the software or o2 sensor. Personally I prefer to have the o2 and software. With the lc1.you can use the low voltage side to replace the input to the ecu from the stock "narrow band" o2 and instead use the lc1 wideband. Ir gives the ecu a much better signal for adjusting the fuel maps off boost. Josh- Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Damn! Looking good! Wish I had a budget like yours :( You may even beat me! LOL, I have no budget. I just buy whatever I need. I usually just use all the money I get from my side job but that doesnt usually make enough to support it. I do have to take it easy till after christmas or my wife will get PO'd. My biggest problem is being lazy. Quote Link to comment
vdubjim Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Looks great so far! For your tire fitment rubbing, get a diff brand 195. they vary quite a bit from brand to brand. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 Looks great so far! For your tire fitment rubbing, get a diff brand 195. they vary quite a bit from brand to brand. I dont have any rubbing issues, I rolled them 7 months ago. Plus I beat on the inner fender well a little. Quote Link to comment
vdubjim Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 ahh well for me it was 15 min ago :) and i didnt see a totally resolved posting.... Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 ahh well for me it was 15 min ago :) and i didnt see a totally resolved posting.... The resolution was simple, I simply beat on the battery tray indention. Not to much, maybe popped it into the engine bay 1/4 with a 3lbs sledge hammer. I am going to do a cross cut on the tray and hammer dolly it in and then weld it up. Probably wont do this till I know everything is mocked up and ready for stripping and painting. You never know what else needs to be modified in the interim. In all due reality I am going to drive it around for a few months before I start any body work. I need to make sure all issues are resolved prior to body work. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I might mate the Tranny and engine tomorrow if I have enough time after my appointment. The engine is mounted to the crossmember, I had to slot the motor mounts to get it to fit properly. My new tail light gaskets came in today as well. Now just waiting on my Tail light housings to come in from Canada. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Looking good my friend... Started to do your wiring homework yet? What are your plans? CAN/AM, Painless, or good ol' fashion DIY wiring? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Looking good my friend... Started to do your wiring homework yet? What are your plans? CAN/AM, Painless, or good ol' fashion DIY wiring? I am going with the EZ Wiring Harness, it is almost the exact same as Painless but much cheaper ( http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html ). I am not sweating the wiring, I use to working a stereo shop building competition vehicles when I was younger. Should be a piece of cake. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Hey Dennis makes no sense rewiring the car. Once you simplify it all it does is run lights and wiper motor. The engine wiring is always separated Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Hey Dennis makes no sense rewiring the car. Once you simplify it all it does is run lights and wiper motor. The engine wiring is always separated I know Phil. I am going to rewire the entire car because I am going to hide all the wiring in the engine compartment. I know I still do not need to rewire the whole car but I wanted to get new wires in there since some of the insulation is becoming brittle. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I dropped the motor on to a 1,000lbs dolly and put the clutch back in. I got to the pressure plate and realized that I was missing a couple of washers and I had a broken bolt in the flywheel. After searching I came up with a replacement ( http://www.mcmaster.com part # 93849A105) . It is not the exact same size, it is .010 taller than the original (the rest of the specs are dead on) but I am just going to change them all out. Looks like I have to wait another week to drop the SR in. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 took an easy out to the broken pressure plate bolt. It came out so easy it left me wondering why it ever broke off. The pressure plate bolts are hand tight, waiting on the 3 washers. Does anyone have an exploded view of the clutch system and throwout bearing? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 The package is almost in. This morning I mounted the pressure plate and then mounted the transmission to the engine. I had to wrap up a couple of issues and now it is waiting to go in. Quote Link to comment
SSSEXXX Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 YES!!! Looks good... Good to know I am not the only one aggravated by bolts snapping these days. 6 of them last night!!! If someone doesn't have one, I have an exploded transmission pic at my office. I can't shoot it to you first thing on Monday. Quote Link to comment
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