Dennis' 72 510

[dennis]

NOTE!

I will update this list as I find out more part numbers for a conversion. The cross member will be a standard 510 flipped.

 

SR20 parts list:

 

Motor Mounts/Isolators: 75' - 79' 620 motor mounts part number Westar EM-2533 (x2)

Transmission Isolator (Experimental Engineering Cross Member): 83' 280ZX transmission mount part number Westar EM-2741

 

 

***********************************************************************************************************************************************

 

 

 

Well I have decided to post my build here instead of the realm.

 

I picked the 510 around 2 weeks ago. This is going to be a slow build because I am cramped on space and short on time. This is my third 510!!

 

The day I picked it up:

 

[izzo]

I saw this on the realm also. Cool car man for sure.

[dennis]

New shoes installed.

 

195/50/15 Yokohama S-Drives, 15 x 7 +15mm offset Wannabe Works

[dennis]

The 510 starts but quickly dies. I have a rebuild kit for the carb but I might just clean it out before rebuilding it. I also installed a 280z Brake Master Cylinder because I will be adding 280zx struts/brakes very soon along with some maxima calipers in the rear.

[dennis]

I saw this on the realm also. Cool car man for sure.

 

Thanks

[dennis]

Front brakes are good to go. It was weird, I tried to bleed the fronts after I put in a new 280z BMC and it would get a sporadic blow out. I then pulled the calipers and pushed in the piston then put it back in and it bled for me. I guess I had some sludge that was blocking it.

[dennis]

New Weber DGEV 32/36 came in today. I will install it later today and take some pics.

[dennis]

Here is the pic of the new Weber 32/36:

 

 

My son Justyn pulling the plugs for a compression check, all cylinders were 180psi (kind of surprised):

 

Ghetto dropped it a little today as well. Here is what it looked like after I chopped three coils in the front:

[dennis]

Been busy buying crap. I have an EL Dizzy getting ready to drop in I am just waiting for a cap and rotor from Rockauto. I also picked up some T/C rod kit from VG30.com (Carter) and I picked up a used Painless Fuse box from Spriso. I have been looking for a Painless type fuse block since I wanted to wipe out the original box for a hidden ATC type panel. I also picked up a bunch of different wire as well as some heat shrink (I only solder) and some other hardware. My plan is to hide a majority of the wires.

 

[dennis]

Almost there!

 

Brakes suck, I have a right front warped rotor and some pretty nasty grinding going on. I keep forgetting to take pics.

 

To do list:

New front disc's and pads.

New front shocks

Water temp sensor

Clean gas tank sensor

TX Vehicle inspection

 

Here is a pic of my line-up, 72 510, 04 Audi TT, 04 Land Rover Discovery, 03 Jetta 1.8T(Hard to see). I rent out the 2nd through 4th spots and the 1st spot is a visitor parking so it was a good photo op.

 

[datzenmike]

Almost there!

 

Brakes suck, I have a right front warped rotor and some pretty nasty grinding going on. I keep forgetting to take pics.

 

To do list:

New front disc's and pads.

New front shocks

Water temp sensor

Clean gas tank sensor

TX Vehicle inspection

 

Here is a pic of my line-up, 72 510, 04 Audi TT, 04 Land Rover Discovery, 03 Jetta 1.8T(Hard to see). I rent out the 2nd through 4th spots and the 1st spot is a visitor parking so it was a good photo op.

 

 

Water temp/gas problems? Ground the temp sender to the head and the gauge should read full hot with the key on. Same with the gas sender. If both gauges are not reading it could be because they share a common supply from a small voltage regulator in the gauge cluster. Check this before going to all the trouble of pulling the tank sender.

 

Nice car BTW.

[dennis]

Water temp/gas problems? Ground the temp sender to the head and the gauge should read full hot with the key on. Same with the gas sender. If both gauges are not reading it could be because they share a common supply from a small voltage regulator in the gauge cluster. Check this before going to all the trouble of pulling the tank sender.

 

Nice car BTW.

 

I'll give it a try Mike.

[dennis]

They both work when they are grounded out. I am going to replace the bullet connector on the water temp sensor since it was rusted out pretty bad. I stripped the wires and the copper was nasty so I kept stripping back and wound up removing around 7" of wire. Off to buy some bullet connectors.

[dennis]

Well hell, that worked. Looked like the bullet connector on the signal wire was corroded so bad it didnt make a connection. I removed a 10" section of wire and wired in my own new 12" section of white wire with a new bullet connector and it worked like a champ.

 

To do list:

New front disc's and pads.

New front shocks

Water temp sensor

Clean gas tank sensor

TX Vehicle inspection

[Unclejesse88]

It won't matter much on the temp sensor, but remember that the bullet connectors on the car and those you can buy at the parts house are different. If you mix and match them you can wind up with loose or spread connections.

[dennis]

Anyone know what the normal reading on the temp gauge should read? Mine is right around the "m" in temp. Also, can anyone tell me what this device is? I know it has some vacuum to it and looks like it runs off to the tranny. Also, can I delete it?

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

that a fuel vent line deal.

the lower goes to thwe crankcase pipe.the will be a little outlet as that the hose we see.

the top goes to the stock aircleaner which most people dont run anymore. I just leave it as it ismyself. I dont know if removing it willcause smelly proplems i think this has a little ball valve on there.(not positive)

[MicroMachinery]

that a fuel vent line deal.

the lower goes to thwe crankcase pipe.the will be a little outlet as that the hose we see.

the top goes to the stock aircleaner which most people dont run anymore. I just leave it as it ismyself. I dont know if removing it willcause smelly proplems i think this has a little ball valve on there.(not positive)

 

Correct; there is a small ball valve inside. One line comes from the fuel tank, one goes to the crankcase breather and is actuated by engine vacuum, and the other vents into the air cleaner. It looks like the one that vents to the air cleaner isn't there anymore, so it is just venting to atmosphere anyhow. I personally wouldn't delete it, as it would let unregulated fuel vapors into your underhood compartment.. which you don't want. Also, if you capped it off, it wouldn't allow for release of fuel tank vapor expansion. At the very least I say leave it as is.

[dennis]

Thanks!!!

 

Any of you know where the needle is at normal operating temps? Mine is at the "M" in Temp.

[dennis]

bought a new camera since mine was suckin' , here is a new shot

 

[dennis]

Here is a pic of her ass

 

[The Dat-side]

Looks good man.

My dime with the L20b and a fiero radiator runs between the line and the "T" when I'm driving, and between the "T" and the "E" when I'm stuck in traffic on a 90+ day.

You should put some black rally stripes on it.

[dennis]

Looks good man.

My dime with the L20b and a fiero radiator runs between the line and the "T" when I'm driving, and between the "T" and the "E" when I'm stuck in traffic on a 90+ day.

You should put some black rally stripes on it.

 

Thanks,

 

I think I am going to get one of those IR Thermometers and check the temps of my hoses.

[hang_510]

Here is a pic of her ass

:blink: :hyper:

 

 

being in TX, i would go the bumble bee/rally stripe route ;)

 

 

 

my gauge runs just where the first white mark is, near C.

calibrates to 180*

wish i could adjust it :angry:

 

the ? will not tell you what YOUR temp is!

verify NOT with an external thermometer.

[dennis]

:blink: :hyper:

 

 

being in TX, i would go the bumble bee/rally stripe route ;)

 

 

 

my gauge runs just where the first white mark is, near C.

calibrates to 180*

wish i could adjust it :angry:

 

the ? will not tell you what YOUR temp is!

verify NOT with an external thermometer.

 

It should give me a decent ballpark number is. Out here it is freaking hot outside. Usually 100* with a crap load of humidity. Plus it gives me an excuse to buy more tools.