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Dennis' 72 510


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  • 2 weeks later...
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Are you going to make a new center brace to replace the one you took out?

 

Yeah, I am going to figure it out once I get the intercooler fully mounted. The intercooler will be flush mounted so the radiator can almost sit flush with the radiator support. I measured and I should be able to achieve this with no problem.

 

I also dont know right now if I am going to have to have some 90* bends welded up. I mounted the intercooler up high enough so it clears the area where the horns are so I am hoping I wont have too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Damn, cant believe the way people run their businesses. I decided to go with Tial silicone tubes. I cannot mount my radiator till the 3" 90* bends come in from the online store I purchased them from. Well it has been about a week and a half and I decided to ask them for an update since I did not receive any tracking number from them. One guy told me "We are waiting on Tial, your card hasnt been charged." and that was it. I wrote back stating that I understand that ordering from suppliers take time but when I bought the parts you should have told me that it might take x amount of days to get it in from Tial, blah blah blah...

 

When I ordered my Ron Davis radiator they told me that they would make a new one for me in around 2 weeks I had no problem with it since I had a status from the beginning. Now I have to wait to mount my radiator so I can finalize my mock up with the intercooler.

 

Stupid shit like this pisses me off.

 

[/rant]

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  • 3 weeks later...

New elbows came in since the previous place said that Tial had no ship date on their elbows. I decided to do a reducer from 3" to 2.75 since that is the size of the throttle body inlet. I was going to do this with an aluminum reducer before the BOV. I trimmed down the silicone hoses so the radius is almost near the lip intercooler. I have around 1" of space between the radiator and the silicone bends and I have clearance when I mount the intercooler so I dont have to chop up any of the engine bay (minus the radiator support of course) to clear the silicone hoses.

 

This project is moving really slow. I could put in a ton more hours into it but I have been busy flying R/C helicopters and playing Skyrim LOL. I did this on purpose since I couldnt do Canby this year so now I have nothing to rush for.

 

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nice car....coming along nicely... whatcha got for helis. ... i got couple 450's and a 250...and some micro shit...been doing a lot of fixed wing this winter too...

 

Well I first bought a Double Horse 9101 just to see if I liked it. Well the double horse was a pile of shit so I bought a Blade 120 SR. Then a Blade SR. Then a Blade MCX2. Then a Blade MSRX. Oh and I have a Blade Scout CX2 for screwing around with in the house.

 

I run a Spektrum DX8, I love the Spektrums and have been running a DX3R when I was racing off road trucks and buggies as wells as on road carpet. I was going to do gas but with brushless and lipos you get tons of power without the heat issues and mess. I love it but I am breaking parts left and right. I bought a RC Simulator but I dont like it. I have no issues with getting off the ground and cruising with the fixed pitches but that Blade SR is a nightmare.

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looking good. you might want to flange the core support. no sharp edges around the intercooler piping. makes it flex alot less. a good radiator shop can push the outlet to side alittle more and weld a 45. only thing i dont like about a tick core rad and intercooler is the grill doesnt fit right. you have to space it out. and the lower grill trim is a no go. you can trim it and weld a welding rod to the back side where it curves to make it sturdy. then polish it

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looking good. you might want to flange the core support. no sharp edges around the intercooler piping. makes it flex alot less. a good radiator shop can push the outlet to side alittle more and weld a 45. only thing i dont like about a tick core rad and intercooler is the grill doesnt fit right. you have to space it out. and the lower grill trim is a no go. you can trim it and weld a welding rod to the back side where it curves to make it sturdy. then polish it

 

I actually ordered 25' of some car door type edge material to take out the sharp edge, this is why I have a large gap between the intercooler and the radiator support. I know what you mean on the spacing the grill out. I am going to use a half in spacer between the grill and the mounting tabs. I would have loved to go the 1.5" radiator and a 2" intercooler but I didnt want to run CXRacing stuff or pay an arm and a leg for TSR stuff. Thanks for the tip on the lower trim.

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unfortunetly I am going to have to put this project on hold for a while. I do not want to sell it but I might have to. I havent been working on it much because I suffer from massive amounts of pain due to a rare disease Ankylosing Spondylitis. My lower spine and three hip bones are fused together, my knees, ankles, and feet are all fucked up. I have been walking with my cane for around four years but it is usually during trips to the mall or longer walks. For the past three months I have been using my cane for all walking since my condition is getting worse. Everytime i work on the 510 I can usually only stand around 2 hours before the pain becomes too much for me to handle. I cant even imagine driving it with the current suspension with my calcium fused back. I could pay to have it finished but I enjoy working on it and that was the main purpose for it.

 

We will see.

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Well good news.

 

I posted a for sale ad on craigslist and had a couple of inquiries mostly people who have no respect for 510's or love for Datsuns. This made me mad so I removed my ad. Well no more than 5 min after ad deletion I got a couple of phone calls/text msgs from two guys who either work on 510's or 240SX's willing to help me out. So I have a guy that is coming out soon to take a look at the project and we are going to give it a go. Another guy lives down the street from me, no more than a mile and a half who has done at least 30 SR swaps.

 

I also installed my sway bar and then called it a day.

 

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The front is all buttoned up, I do have to even out the cuts near the turn signals. I also need to add some 3/8" spacers to the top of the grill mounting tabs as well as the lower ones. Here is a picture of the center link clearance. Oh and yes I cleaned up the steering linkage.

 

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here it is all buttoned back up in the front.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

rollin rollin rollin, keep those doggies rollin...

 

Slowly but surely it is coming along. oil catch can is in and now I need to decide, stainless steel braided lines or black braided lines? opinions?

 

You can also see the CAS tag on my wiring harness. I am in the process of extending and cleaning the harness. I am going to be running some bulkhead fittings to the engine harness. right now I am determining what is not used so I can delete it from the harness. Then I am going with heatshrink the entire loom and then run a braided wire sleeve over it with additional heatshrink over the ends.

 

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What sway bar is that and where did you get it? I'm still searching for an affordable front sway bar for my swap.

 

Keep up the great work.

 

That is the Quickor 1" SR swaybar. I bought it from John Roper (local to me) for 200.00. He had it sitting around new in the box still. They are hard to find. Best bet is to get one from DGR's ebay listings. Dan posts them all the time on ebay.

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That is the Quickor 1" SR swaybar. I bought it from John Roper (local to me) for 200.00. He had it sitting around new in the box still.

 

Glad to see it fits so well. :thumbup:

 

They are hard to find. Best bet is to get one from DGR's ebay listings. Dan posts them all the time on ebay.

 

FWIW, if you can get a hold of the guy making the Quickor parts, he does make them to order for a few bucks more.

 

There's also MadDat. http://maddat.com.au/1600.php

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