banzai510(hainz) Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Dennis Donet the 280zx have a wider track.these wheels might even poke out farther. well let us know. yea I went with the short spring and collar up high Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 here is the a pic of how much the tire hangs out past the fender (sorry for the crappy pic, I had to do it on my cell since I forgot my SD card for my DSLR in another computer) I wish my wheels only stuck out that far lol Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Dennis Donet the 280zx have a wider track.these wheels might even poke out farther. well let us know. yea I went with the short spring and collar up high 280ZX struts have a shorter track width. Many people have stated that it is 3/4" narrower per side. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 well i put on my drivers side 280ZX strut and then lowered it to the ride height I though would look good. The wheels were sucked in at least 3/4" and I am probably running -1* camber. Something is rubbing when I turn hard to the left so I will have to figure that one out. Here it is for now. It was getting dark out and I forgot my DSLR again so I snapped them with my cell. Here you can't see any tire when looking directly down the fender. You can see a little bit of the side of the tire because the wheels werent straight.. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 14, 2010 Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 your passenger floor slash fender well is probably rubbing. Did you get bump steer spacers? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 your passenger floor slash fender well is probably rubbing. Did you get bump steer spacers? Only the drivers side has the 280zx strut in it and no bump steer spacers yet. I am waiting for them, they have been on order for a while from the place I got them from. Quote Link to comment
juancho Posted November 14, 2010 Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 nice......... Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 Ok I have definitive answers. I wont be able to post till I get home later on today (12 year anniversary). Plus I know what is rubbing Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 Ok, here are some pics of the T3 Camber Plates and my Painted 280ZX struts and rotor. I did not bother painting or cleaning up the caliper since they are getting swapped out with wilwoods soon. For my current ride height this is as low as I can go before the perch hits the tire. This is about a 3-4mm gap. The split shaft collars are not an issue at all, I put the 280ZX strut on the drivers side only, here is a couple of pictures with passenger side with the stock 510 struts and the drivers side 280zx installed with around -2* camber. You will notice how much farther the stock struts track width are. Here are some measurements of the track width remember drivers side 280zx passenger side is stock. Over a 1 1/4" difference per side. Keep in mind that the 280zx side is -2* camber. Finally here is how it now sits. I am currently waiting on a rear Wilwood brake kit and QA1 Coil Overs from Troy Ermish. So for the moment I am just running the stock drums and cut springs. I will probably raise the rear 1/2" once my new coil overs are installed. Conclusion You can run +4mm 15x7 with 195/50/15 on a 280zx strut with no spacers as long as you go no lower than my 510's current stance. You will also have some rubbing on the front fenders so you will have to roll them. Later on today I will roll the front fenders with some pics. Tips When running the T3/Ground Control Sleeves make sure you use the large o-rings that come with the kit. These o-rings go on the strut tube before you install the sleeve. The o-rings eliminate the sleeve rattling when cornering. When you put the o-rings on before you slide your sleeve over them make sure you rub them down with a little bit of oil or you will have a hard time getting the sleeves to slide down the o-rings without the o-rings bunching up. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 14, 2010 Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 Pimps run 4 doors!!!!!!!!!!!Thats pimpn! you could buy 7inch springs if you want later. also get the front aligned as soon as you can(with the bumbsteer) as my tires were feathering. looks good Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 Pimps run 4 doors!!!!!!!!!!!Thats pimpn! you could buy 7inch springs if you want later. also get the front aligned as soon as you can(with the bumbsteer) as my tires were feathering. looks good LOL, that's my 3rd 510 and all of them have been 4 doors. I just can't seem to get away from them. I have four kids and I would at least need to put three of them in there so this is why I get four doors. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Just got my black friday project today. QA1 Coil Overs and Wilwood Rear Brakes. Quote Link to comment
71pl510 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Let us know how the coilovers work and the price/part# please Looks like a nice friday project Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Let us know how the coilovers work and the price/part# please Looks like a nice friday project tons of threads on coil overs, even on piece together units. These are Troy Ermish coil overs, I could have saved around 50.00 if I pieced them together myself so I figured it wasn't worth it. I have ran these before on one of my past 510s so the performance will be predictable. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Bitchin 4door Dennis! Thanks for the inspiration! Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Finally here is how it now sits. So for the moment I am just running the stock drums and cut springs. I will probably raise the rear 1/2" once my new coil overs are installed. Did you cut the stock springs? How much did you cut off? It sounds like you wish you would have cut a little less. I want to cut my stock springs for now. Any advice would be appreciated. :D Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Bitchin 4door Dennis! Thanks for the inspiration! Thanks, I will keep it going!!! Did you cut the stock springs? How much did you cut off? It sounds like you wish you would have cut a little less. I want to cut my stock springs for now. Any advice would be appreciated. :D I cut the stock springs and removed exactly two coils. I wish I would have cut around 1 3/4 coils but now I am liking it so I would still cut two coils. I think it has the perfect stance now. When I put my rear coil overs on this week/weekend I will probably lower it to the exact same height. I only cut the coils because I couldnt stand looking at the stance the way it was and I only drove it around the block a couple of times since I bought it, so it was no big deal cutting the coils. I plan to leave the body as ratty as it currently is and do the following: 12.2 wilwoods up front SR20DET (stock except top mount exhaust mani and intake mani) R180VLSD with Subie CV inners and Custom outter CV's I might not even do the body work for a while because I think the coolness factor is kind of cool. In a couple of weeks I will be doing Corbeau FX seats with aluminum mounts along with a momo mod 78 steering wheel. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted November 22, 2010 Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I might not even do the body work for a while because I think the coolness factor is kind of cool. I am with you on this dennis! Your dime has just enough patina to make it interesting, but not like a total rot bucket. Especially balanced with all the clean touches you are doing to the suspension etc. You only get that kind of history once! (Unless someone wants to drive a new paintjob for 40 years to get the same effect!) I have great respect for fully finished rides too. But my heart really jumps when I see old paint, scars and all with a great stance and wheels. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 I am with you on this dennis! Your dime has just enough patina to make it interesting, but not like a total rot bucket. Especially balanced with all the clean touches you are doing to the suspension etc. You only get that kind of history once! (Unless someone wants to drive a new paintjob for 40 years to get the same effect!) I have great respect for fully finished rides too. But my heart really jumps when I see old paint, scars and all with a great stance and wheels. I would love to keep it stock but it does have a very small amount of rust on the quarters so it will have to be addressed one day. I do not think it will spread since it is garaged and I do not drive it much (at least till I get my SR20DET in it). Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2010 Good day for parts. Besides the coil overs and brakes coming in I also received my stainless steel fasteners to install my Odyssey battery tray in the trunk and these were in the mail. I bought them off of ebay (factory repro's) for 29.99. The quality is decent and I pay great attention to detail so most people will not notice the minor flaws. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 Installed the Odyssey billet tray. I used some countersunk Allen M10 x 1.5 bolts fender washers and nylon lock nuts and all in stainless steel of course. Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted November 24, 2010 Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 I know you haven't driven this much, have you driven it since you cut the rear springs? How'd it feel. I don't want to cut the stock springs, was just going to try to find some t-bird or d50 springs. Used any of those? Battery looks good, so damn small ever thought of recessing it? Suppose not since you got that sweet hold down. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2010 I know you haven't driven this much, have you driven it since you cut the rear springs? How'd it feel. I don't want to cut the stock springs, was just going to try to find some t-bird or d50 springs. Used any of those? I cut down the stock springs and it drove like crap. I have since installed the Ermish Coil Overs and for the .5 miles I put on it it was great. I am going to drive it a little more aggressively on Sunday after I finish up the rest of the suspension and will report back. Battery looks good, so damn small ever thought of recessing it? Suppose not since you got that sweet hold down. This build will not have much fabrication till I move into my new house. I have a very small 1.5 car garage (1.5 length wise) and have no room for anything. Still I dont think I will recess the battery. I might run two of these PC680T's depending on how the whole system handles the smaller battery. then again I know of a lot of people with KA's and SR20's running them without issues. I might have a problem with the stock L16 since I start it up once every other day and most of the time it takes a few seconds to get it going if not 2 or 3 times of a few seconds of cranking. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Decided to name the 510 kirro or yellow in Japanese. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted November 25, 2010 Report Share Posted November 25, 2010 Here is a pic of her ass Hard to believe this is what my 510 looks like under all that cammo spraypaint I am removing! My yellow might be lighter though. But the stock paint I am finding is way more beat up. Thanks for the inspiration to keep scrubbing! Quote Link to comment
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