banzai510(hainz) Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 mine is on the line or slightly above it. if near the M I would ck the bottom hose for softness which it coul collaspe restricting flow. try timming it try a 160 stat 54mm Generic as a last option maybe drill a 1/8 bypass hose if you dont have the bypass hose on the heater line. This works better in cooler location as if too low the water might no have time to cool down before it flows again into engine. get a new radiator or have it cked out. flow tested. But i dont live in texas,Maybe that a normal 510 tempature. try a Nissan Stat Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 bought a new camera since mine was suckin' , here is a new shot Saweeet! Looking good man! Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 Here is a pic of my Grenade shifter Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 Well the right side rotor is warped and making a nasty metal to metal noise even though the pads have plenty of pad remaining. I decided to replace the discs and add new pads. Once I pulled the rotor and disc off of the spindle I beat the hell out of it with a 5lbs mallet but the damn thing wouldn't budge. I then decided to put it in my 6ton press. I even had to crank on the press to get that sucker free and when it did, it made a loud pop. I guess the years of rust couldn't handle 6 tons. I mounted everything back up but still need to bleed the brakes and change a couple of nuts and bolts on the T/C rod. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 I started to work on my 280ZX struts. I pulled everything off the spindle first then removed the springs. After this I cut off the perches with my dremel tool, I have a angled air mini grinder but my compressor makes so much noise that I am afraid to use it on the weekends (my garage has people living above it, apartment complex). I also ordered some RCA, 250lbs front springs along with T3 coilovers and T3 camber plates. I ordered some 2 piece shaft collars from McMaster Carr part number # 6436K27 ($10.83 ea.) I then started to clean up the strut tubes so I can shoot them with a Krylon Metallic Aged Bronze paint. I started with the angled air die grinder but my compressor is so loud plus it was running out of juice along the way I had to stop. I am probably going to pick up a very small 4" electric grinder next weekend and strip down the tubes and then use the mini air die grinder to finish it up. I also picked up ARP 070-100-7708 studs from Jegs (11.98 per pack of 5) and some red anodized open end 12m x 1.5 tuner lugs from ebay. Once I get everything painted and mounted I am going to make my own spacers out of washers till the rims fit without any rubbing. Right now I have 1mm space between my 195/50/15 Yokohama S-Drives mounted on Koenig work knock offs 15x7 15mm et. I know a 15mm spacer will work but I want it to be as tight to the collars as possible. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 sorry double post 1 Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 Some of my T3 stuff came in today. Ground Control Coil-overs w 200lbs springs and T3 Camber plates. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 26, 2010 Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 mine is in the suspension section. Ichouse welded and installed the spring perchI have a 7in spring read my write up(the510realm suspension section) as i have a +25mm Rota RB wheels so the perch went in the same location. so a 7un spring was used to get it LOW Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 mine is in the suspension section. Ichouse welded and installed the spring perchI have a 7in spring read my write up(the510realm suspension section) as i have a +25mm Rota RB wheels so the perch went in the same location. so a 7un spring was used to get it LOW I've read your post on the realm a few days ago! I shouldnt have any issues, I will be running a 15mm spacer with mine giving me around 5mm of clearance from my tires to the springs. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Some Moog stuff came in today. Ball joints, Spindle nut kits, T/C rod bushings, sway bar end links, and some bump stops. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Here is a couple of pics of my new rims, Rota RB 15 x 7 et4 with Yokohama S Drive 195/50/15's. I had to roll the rear well and my 280ZX struts are still not on (waiting on parts). Hopefully I will get my rear Wilwood's and my rear coil overs delivered this week. 1 Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Lookin good man. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 Lookin good man. Thanks I don't see how some go for 0 offset. I rolled it a few times last night and it is still real close. I am going to do it a couple more times see if I can get that lip in even more. Quote Link to comment
that_guy Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 WOW, your car is looking REALLY good! I wish had a four door already...please keep posting! -Ian Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 WOW, your car is looking REALLY good! I wish had a four door already...please keep posting! -Ian Thanks, maintain your search and the right one will come along. 1 Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Here is my newest goodie, Odyssey PC680T with a billet bracket. It is a shame that nice shiny billet bracket is gonna get painted. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Dennis, Let us know how you make out with the 280XZ struts and the 15x7 +4 wheels. They should fit just about right without a spacer. I'm guessing that on the stock 510 struts they must be about hitting the fenders. From my measurements, the 280ZX hub face is about .4" inboard of the 510 hub location. I have 195/50-15 Dunlops on 15x6 +24 VTO Classic 8 wheels and the tire barely clears the 280ZX strut tube. I like using backspacing to determine fit because it give the same reference distance for strut clearance regardless of wheel width. Backspacing can be calculated reasonably close by using the following formula. (Rim Width + 1")/ 2 + (offset/25.4) = Backspacing in inches For the 2 sets of wheels you’ve used it is: 15x7 +15 rim; (7" rim +1") / 2 + (15/25.4) = 4.59" backspacing 15x7 +4 rim; (7” rim + 1”) / 2 + (4/25.4) = 4.16” backspacing For my VTO Classic 8’s: 15x6 +24 rim; (6” rim + 1”) /2 + (24/25.4) = 4.44” backspacing. For me I’d like another ¼” of clearance tire to strut. That would make a 4.19” backspacing (4.44” - .25” = 4.19”) the proper fit in my mind. This is why I say your 15x7 +4 wheels with a 4.16” backspacing should fit the 280ZX struts well. Let us know how this shape up when you get the 280ZX struts on the car. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Dennis, Let us know how you make out with the 280XZ struts and the 15x7 +4 wheels. They should fit just about right without a spacer. I'm guessing that on the stock 510 struts they must be about hitting the fenders. From my measurements, the 280ZX hub face is about .4" inboard of the 510 hub location. I have 195/50-15 Dunlops on 15x6 +24 VTO Classic 8 wheels and the tire barely clears the 280ZX strut tube. I like using backspacing to determine fit because it give the same reference distance for strut clearance regardless of wheel width. Backspacing can be calculated reasonably close by using the following formula. (Rim Width + 1")/ 2 + (offset/25.4) = Backspacing in inches For the 2 sets of wheels you’ve used it is: 15x7 +15 rim; (7" rim +1") / 2 + (15/25.4) = 4.59" backspacing 15x7 +4 rim; (7” rim + 1”) / 2 + (4/25.4) = 4.16” backspacing For my VTO Classic 8’s: 15x6 +24 rim; (6” rim + 1”) /2 + (24/25.4) = 4.44” backspacing. For me I’d like another ¼” of clearance tire to strut. That would make a 4.19” backspacing (4.44” - .25” = 4.19”) the proper fit in my mind. This is why I say your 15x7 +4 wheels with a 4.16” backspacing should fit the 280ZX struts well. Let us know how this shape up when you get the 280ZX struts on the car. Will do Dave. If it helps I will shot a pic of the +4's on there now to show you. With the stock 510 struts they would easily hit the fenders, thank god this is till the 280zx struts get finished (hopefully one will be done this weekend). I am also hoping the +4's will work so I dont have to run a spacer but we shall see wont we? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 here is the a pic of how much the tire hangs out past the fender (sorry for the crappy pic, I had to do it on my cell since I forgot my SD card for my DSLR in another computer) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 I thought the +15 15x7 Rotas are the one to get so it tucks in best on 280zx struts. Dave can get away with the VTO +24s as he only has a 6in rim. Like Panasports. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 I thought the +15 15x7 Rotas are the one to get so it tucks in best on 280zx struts. Dave can get away with the VTO +24s as he only has a 6in rim. Like Panasports. The only way you can get +15 in on a 15x7 is if you are running a short spring and sleeve like you do or a spring perch above the tire. I had 2mm of clearance with a +15 without my sleeves installed. Quote Link to comment
juancho Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 looking good,.........did you lowered it more from the back? Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 looking good,.........did you lowered it more from the back? No, same stance all around for now. The back will be raised about 1/2" and the front will go down about 4" as soon as my coil overs are installed. Quote Link to comment
jputz Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Nice ride man its looking good. Keep posting I will be following this one! Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Nice ride man its looking good. Keep posting I will be following this one! Thanks Quote Link to comment
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