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Dennis' 72 510


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mine is on the line or slightly above it.

 

if near the M I would ck the bottom hose for softness which it coul collaspe restricting flow.

 

try timming it

 

try a 160 stat 54mm Generic as a last option maybe drill a 1/8 bypass hose if you dont have the bypass hose on the heater line. This works better in cooler location as if too low the water might no have time to cool down before it flows again into engine.

 

get a new radiator or have it cked out. flow tested.

 

But i dont live in texas,Maybe that a normal 510 tempature.

 

try a Nissan Stat

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the right side rotor is warped and making a nasty metal to metal noise even though the pads have plenty of pad remaining. I decided to replace the discs and add new pads.

 

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Once I pulled the rotor and disc off of the spindle I beat the hell out of it with a 5lbs mallet but the damn thing wouldn't budge. I then decided to put it in my 6ton press. I even had to crank on the press to get that sucker free and when it did, it made a loud pop. I guess the years of rust couldn't handle 6 tons.

 

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I mounted everything back up but still need to bleed the brakes and change a couple of nuts and bolts on the T/C rod.

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  • 2 months later...

I started to work on my 280ZX struts. I pulled everything off the spindle first then removed the springs. After this I cut off the perches with my dremel tool, I have a angled air mini grinder but my compressor makes so much noise that I am afraid to use it on the weekends (my garage has people living above it, apartment complex). I also ordered some RCA, 250lbs front springs along with T3 coilovers and T3 camber plates. I ordered some 2 piece shaft collars from McMaster Carr part number # 6436K27 ($10.83 ea.)

 

I then started to clean up the strut tubes so I can shoot them with a Krylon Metallic Aged Bronze paint. I started with the angled air die grinder but my compressor is so loud plus it was running out of juice along the way I had to stop. I am probably going to pick up a very small 4" electric grinder next weekend and strip down the tubes and then use the mini air die grinder to finish it up.

 

I also picked up ARP 070-100-7708 studs from Jegs (11.98 per pack of 5) and some red anodized open end 12m x 1.5 tuner lugs from ebay. Once I get everything painted and mounted I am going to make my own spacers out of washers till the rims fit without any rubbing. Right now I have 1mm space between my 195/50/15 Yokohama S-Drives mounted on Koenig work knock offs 15x7 15mm et. I know a 15mm spacer will work but I want it to be as tight to the collars as possible.

 

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mine is in the suspension section.

Ichouse welded and installed the spring perchI have a 7in spring

read my write up(the510realm suspension section) as i have a +25mm Rota RB wheels so the perch went in the same location. so a 7un spring was used to get it LOW

 

I've read your post on the realm a few days ago! I shouldnt have any issues, I will be running a 15mm spacer with mine giving me around 5mm of clearance from my tires to the springs.

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Here is a couple of pics of my new rims, Rota RB 15 x 7 et4 with Yokohama S Drive 195/50/15's. I had to roll the rear well and my 280ZX struts are still not on (waiting on parts). Hopefully I will get my rear Wilwood's and my rear coil overs delivered this week.

 

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Dennis,

Let us know how you make out with the 280XZ struts and the 15x7 +4 wheels. They should fit just about right without a spacer. I'm guessing that on the stock 510 struts they must be about hitting the fenders.

 

From my measurements, the 280ZX hub face is about .4" inboard of the 510 hub location. I have 195/50-15 Dunlops on 15x6 +24 VTO Classic 8 wheels and the tire barely clears the 280ZX strut tube.

 

I like using backspacing to determine fit because it give the same reference distance for strut clearance regardless of wheel width.

 

Backspacing can be calculated reasonably close by using the following formula.

 

(Rim Width + 1")/ 2 + (offset/25.4) = Backspacing in inches

 

For the 2 sets of wheels you’ve used it is:

15x7 +15 rim; (7" rim +1") / 2 + (15/25.4) = 4.59" backspacing

15x7 +4 rim; (7” rim + 1”) / 2 + (4/25.4) = 4.16” backspacing

 

For my VTO Classic 8’s:

15x6 +24 rim; (6” rim + 1”) /2 + (24/25.4) = 4.44” backspacing. For me I’d like another ¼” of clearance tire to strut. That would make a 4.19” backspacing (4.44” - .25” = 4.19”) the proper fit in my mind. This is why I say your 15x7 +4 wheels with a 4.16” backspacing should fit the 280ZX struts well.

 

Let us know how this shape up when you get the 280ZX struts on the car.

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Dennis,

Let us know how you make out with the 280XZ struts and the 15x7 +4 wheels. They should fit just about right without a spacer. I'm guessing that on the stock 510 struts they must be about hitting the fenders.

 

From my measurements, the 280ZX hub face is about .4" inboard of the 510 hub location. I have 195/50-15 Dunlops on 15x6 +24 VTO Classic 8 wheels and the tire barely clears the 280ZX strut tube.

 

I like using backspacing to determine fit because it give the same reference distance for strut clearance regardless of wheel width.

 

Backspacing can be calculated reasonably close by using the following formula.

 

(Rim Width + 1")/ 2 + (offset/25.4) = Backspacing in inches

 

For the 2 sets of wheels you’ve used it is:

15x7 +15 rim; (7" rim +1") / 2 + (15/25.4) = 4.59" backspacing

15x7 +4 rim; (7” rim + 1”) / 2 + (4/25.4) = 4.16” backspacing

 

For my VTO Classic 8’s:

15x6 +24 rim; (6” rim + 1”) /2 + (24/25.4) = 4.44” backspacing. For me I’d like another ¼” of clearance tire to strut. That would make a 4.19” backspacing (4.44” - .25” = 4.19”) the proper fit in my mind. This is why I say your 15x7 +4 wheels with a 4.16” backspacing should fit the 280ZX struts well.

 

Let us know how this shape up when you get the 280ZX struts on the car.

 

Will do Dave.

 

If it helps I will shot a pic of the +4's on there now to show you. With the stock 510 struts they would easily hit the fenders, thank god this is till the 280zx struts get finished (hopefully one will be done this weekend). I am also hoping the +4's will work so I dont have to run a spacer but we shall see wont we?

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I thought the +15 15x7 Rotas are the one to get so it tucks in best on 280zx struts.

Dave can get away with the VTO +24s as he only has a 6in rim. Like Panasports.

 

The only way you can get +15 in on a 15x7 is if you are running a short spring and sleeve like you do or a spring perch above the tire. I had 2mm of clearance with a +15 without my sleeves installed.

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