skunks 510

[skunk]

yeah thats the rattosan on the sides

[zerow]

ill have to look that one up, going to do it now.

Ask, and ye shall receive (from the interwebs...):

 

Long rod 2.1L motor

parts: L20B or Z20 crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored L20B/Z20 block

 

 

This would be the best HIGH REVING, increased displacement, high compression, engine you could build from the mdium height L20B/Z20/Z22 size block. A "standard" L/Z 2.2 would have 5% more displacement and better midrange torque than this engine but the 2.1 longrod motor with 86mm fully counter weighted L20B/Z20 crank will suffer less vibraton at high RPM than the 1/2 counterbalanced Z22 crank and the hybrid 2.1L will have a slightly oversquare bore/stroke ratio, so better reving than the Z22 "truck engine".Rod to stroke ratio of the 2.1L motor is 1.77:1. Of all the possible L series motors only the L16 has a higher rod/stroke ratio (1.80:1). The long Z20E rods will reduce stress on pistons and help to make more HP at high RPM. The 1.5mm thick Z22E piston compression rings are thinner than 2.0mm L series piston rings so put less stress on the piston ring lands and are less prone to flutter at high RPM. In short, this motor should be a screamer if you build it well, balanced the rotating assembly, and use a suitable RPM cam, head and induction system.

 

 

The HOW TO MODIFY bible cautions against allowing the piston to come further than 0.30mm above the deck top, when built with 32.1mm pin height late Z22E pistons (1/82 and later), this motor when build would have the piston tops 0.05mm above. The "bad" honzowetz spec chart list Z22E pistons as having 32.5mm pin height so verify that you have the correct pistons.

 

 

With a high duration cam and high octane gas to reduce risk of detonation, you should be able to use a peanut chambered head to get higher CR and better chamber shape. The peanut head will be more detonation resistant for a given CR vs a open chambered head. If you are re-using old Z22E pistons, they will be 87mm. Engine displacement will be 2044cc.If you are buying new pistons, get Z22E pistons in +1mm oversize, 88mm and bore the L20B or Z20 block +3mm to 88mm or convert a Z22 block and bore only +1mm. Engine displacement with 88mm pistons will be 2092cc for a near true 2.1L motor. Did I mention that this motor make HP at high RPM!??

 

 

 

With 87mm bore, 86mm stroke producing 511cc of swept cylinder area, 9.32cc piston dish, 7.0cc gasket volume and the piston raised up above top of block by .05mm, using an open chambered head (U67 or A87) of 45.2cc volume, I calculate a CR of 9.31:1 or, if you used a 41cc peanut chambered head head, CR of 9.92:1. Check and verify the piston dish area and piston deck height!

 

 

Since planning this motor, I have realized that it should be possible to use VG30E pistons in this engine instead of the Z22E pistons. I am just not sure if the VG30E piston pins would be compatible with the L series connecting rods, I have seen conflicting specs for the VG30E piston pins that would/would not work depending on who is right. As far as I can tell, the earliest VG30E pistons used wristpins pressed into the rods while the later VG30E pistons use full floating rods retained by circlips.The pressed in pins should work on the L series rods (measure and verify!) of if you use full floating pistons, ensure adequate clearance between wristpin and conncerting rod hole and it will be necessary to drill oil supply holes in the connecting rod to splash lubricate the pin bore. The VG30E piston pin height is the same 31.75mm as Z20E pistons so the piston top would not protrude above the block thus no modifications to piston would be necessary. Compression ratio would be slightly higher with the VG30E pistons because they do not have the large piston dish of the Z22 pistons.

[jncbot]

I think I really like the black fenders and black scoop on that faded green....super ratty, but way mean!!

Props yo! It looks great!!

[skunk]

Ask, and ye shall receive (from the interwebs...):

 

Long rod 2.1L motor

parts: L20B or Z20 crank, Z22E pistons, Z20E rods in a Z22 block or +2mm bored L20B/Z20 block

 

 

This would be the best HIGH REVING, increased displacement, high compression, engine you could build from the mdium height L20B/Z20/Z22 size block. A "standard" L/Z 2.2 would have 5% more displacement and better midrange torque than this engine but the 2.1 longrod motor with 86mm fully counter weighted L20B/Z20 crank will suffer less vibraton at high RPM than the 1/2 counterbalanced Z22 crank and the hybrid 2.1L will have a slightly oversquare bore/stroke ratio, so better reving than the Z22 "truck engine".Rod to stroke ratio of the 2.1L motor is 1.77:1. Of all the possible L series motors only the L16 has a higher rod/stroke ratio (1.80:1). The long Z20E rods will reduce stress on pistons and help to make more HP at high RPM. The 1.5mm thick Z22E piston compression rings are thinner than 2.0mm L series piston rings so put less stress on the piston ring lands and are less prone to flutter at high RPM. In short, this motor should be a screamer if you build it well, balanced the rotating assembly, and use a suitable RPM cam, head and induction system.

 

 

The HOW TO MODIFY bible cautions against allowing the piston to come further than 0.30mm above the deck top, when built with 32.1mm pin height late Z22E pistons (1/82 and later), this motor when build would have the piston tops 0.05mm above. The "bad" honzowetz spec chart list Z22E pistons as having 32.5mm pin height so verify that you have the correct pistons.

 

 

With a high duration cam and high octane gas to reduce risk of detonation, you should be able to use a peanut chambered head to get higher CR and better chamber shape. The peanut head will be more detonation resistant for a given CR vs a open chambered head. If you are re-using old Z22E pistons, they will be 87mm. Engine displacement will be 2044cc.If you are buying new pistons, get Z22E pistons in +1mm oversize, 88mm and bore the L20B or Z20 block +3mm to 88mm or convert a Z22 block and bore only +1mm. Engine displacement with 88mm pistons will be 2092cc for a near true 2.1L motor. Did I mention that this motor make HP at high RPM!??

 

 

 

With 87mm bore, 86mm stroke producing 511cc of swept cylinder area, 9.32cc piston dish, 7.0cc gasket volume and the piston raised up above top of block by .05mm, using an open chambered head (U67 or A87) of 45.2cc volume, I calculate a CR of 9.31:1 or, if you used a 41cc peanut chambered head head, CR of 9.92:1. Check and verify the piston dish area and piston deck height!

 

 

Since planning this motor, I have realized that it should be possible to use VG30E pistons in this engine instead of the Z22E pistons. I am just not sure if the VG30E piston pins would be compatible with the L series connecting rods, I have seen conflicting specs for the VG30E piston pins that would/would not work depending on who is right. As far as I can tell, the earliest VG30E pistons used wristpins pressed into the rods while the later VG30E pistons use full floating rods retained by circlips.The pressed in pins should work on the L series rods (measure and verify!) of if you use full floating pistons, ensure adequate clearance between wristpin and conncerting rod hole and it will be necessary to drill oil supply holes in the connecting rod to splash lubricate the pin bore. The VG30E piston pin height is the same 31.75mm as Z20E pistons so the piston top would not protrude above the block thus no modifications to piston would be necessary. Compression ratio would be slightly higher with the VG30E pistons because they do not have the large piston dish of the Z22 pistons.

 

haha, i was just reading this page http://forums.nicoclub.com/frankenstein-builds-look-here-for-project-info-t469980.html

[zerow]

I'm still seeing too much compression. A lot of work to still have to get high octane fuel. This is a daily driver. You don't want it to sting you twice, once at the machine shop, once more at the pump.

[skunk]

the more i look at what it takes to build a cool l20b the more i think i should just save up and buy ka and build it up.

i just dont want fuel injection, i want a carbureted ka.

[zerow]

haha, i was just reading this page http://forums.nicoclub.com/frankenstein-builds-look-here-for-project-info-t469980.html

I have it as a word document, saved on my computer from 2007.

[zerow]

the more i look at what it takes to build a cool l20b the more i think i should just save up and buy ka and build it up.

i just dont want fuel injection, i want a carbureted ka.

Now, you're looking at more crazy stuff. There is only one area in the world with carbureted KAs, and you need a distributor to make it work. The Middle East. And, no, I'm not going back there just to grab up a distributor... <_< Screw Iraq...

[skunk]

yeah i know......

im not really sure what to do.

I could just have pumpkin210 make me a intake :lol:

still would be short a dizzy tho

[zerow]

...I could just have pumpkin210 make me a intake :lol:

Time to remove that scoop you just installed... :lol:

[skunk]

see i want that.

[zerow]

see i want that.

definitely....different...

[DISLEXICDIME]

Pm me how much you are willing to pay for a carbed ka

[skunk]

maybe ill just let jessi rebuild this block and use the peanut head i got to put in the wagon.its l20 is feelings its age.

[MicroMachinery]

Did you get that scoop from that guy on here? Looks good man.

[skunk]

i did, the F/S thread you pointed me at

[MicroMachinery]

Excellent...

 

Yeah man, I like it. Looks good.

[nukeday]

That scoop is awesome.

[freaky510]

i just love the way the dual 45 carbs sound. mikuni /weber what ever

if your going dual 45's i would buy one of these myself

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22327-race-cams-for-an-l20b/

 

Nice score now your a part of the Dimers Club woot

[DISLEXICDIME]

if your going dual 45's i would buy one of these myself

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22327-race-cams-for-an-l20b/

 

Nice score now your a part of the Dimers Club woot

 

I would go with the 2nd over the first

[Skib]

lookin good bud!

 

 

still wanna get some paint goin on it?

[skunk]

lookin good bud!

 

 

still wanna get some paint goin on it?

 

yes i really do, only thing is i need to get her put togerther first. I still have zero weather striping on the doors or the door jams. I want to get her painted befor summer is up, but i also want a heater and a car that can keep some of the cold out befor winter.

[I'm BLUE]

yes i really do, only thing is i need to get her put togerther first. I still have zero weather striping on the doors or the door jams. I want to get her painted befor summer is up, but i also want a heater and a car that can keep some of the cold out befor winter.

 

Test to see if your weather stripping leaks first ( you probably know by now :) ) my front and rear windows on my Z leak and it was something I didn't even think about when I bought the damn thing in the summer time last year :angry: ... :lol: ahhhhhhh shizzzzz

 

before the winter rain monster sneaks up on us this year :D

[skunk]

well seeing i have no headliner and a cracked windshiled im going to have to take the front and rear glass out anyway.

[I'm BLUE]

well seeing i have no headliner and a cracked windshiled im going to have to take the front and rear glass out anyway.

 

:o sorry man didn't know :D