"The Blue Burrito"

[wayno]

I was to the point where I was going to email the guy asking where the parts were, they showed up 2 days later, :rolleyes:just over 2 months. I don't know who mine came from, it was so long ago, and all that info disappeared from "my ebay", so you can't even leave feedback anymore. So that guy you talked to was putting his hubcaps back on his vehicle in the wrecking yard parking lot, because he removes them before going in to the wrecking yard cause they steal them in the parking lot? :( How bad are your bezels? Post/PM a photo, i mean Oic.:lol:

[burrito213]

ok wayno. I will. But I was on the same boat. The guy I spoke to from bankok said it was going to be weeks if I shipped/sent it on a boat. Well, I did and got it I think 3 days before xmas eve. I ordered them before halloween. Haha.

 

 

I will probably get the truck back on stands before the end of this weekend. And hopefully go from there

[burrito213]

i was going to see a guy today about color matching this color on my truck and pulled a piece for reference. my question is, this looks like a bondo job. in this area should there be bondo or no? - this is located on my front window/rain gaurd. the arrow is where it kind of broke off at

 

[wayno]

Terrible Oic. guy,:( I went threw your old Oics. to make sure you had that little gutter there, you do. :thumbup: The truck is 47 years old, it has patches on it you have not found yet, you should have seen the stuff I found in mine. I do not see any bondo on mine in that area, just smooth metal. wayno

 

By the way, thanks for pointing that area out to me, now I see that a spot was missed by the painter,:( I didn't know that.:crying: :crying:

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Kool parts stash. Looks like you bought the purple 620 rims off my friend Greg here in San diego :D

[burrito213]

pacific coast datsun - lol, you know greg? Yeah, he's a cool dude. I also think he has a kick ass auto collection. His datsun is sweet but I also like his ford falcon. yeah, I bought them like a month ago. I like san diego, so it was win win to go visit.

 

wayno - I know. I need a new camera but I didn't see how bad the pick was till now. But yeah, the whole rain guard strip has bondo on it. It looked like it was cool when they first did it but now it's pretty bad and cracking. I think it will look nice when I get that off. Thanks for ur oic... Sorry he missed a spot but I didn't see it till you pointed it out. It's still one of the besy nl's on the market.

[burrito213]

sorry - it's still one of the best nl's on the market

[wayno]

Maybe you can find a starving artist like I did, they have that homeless look.:lol: :lol: He can't seem to work fast enough to run me out of money.:lol: :unsure: :( :angry: :bye:

[burrito213]

okay... looks like this weeks goal is to pull the gas tank out. i have a question though.

 

while researching fuel and brake system stuff i noticed that the fuel line kits are usually soft line or steel braided soft line. if i buy a kit, would a soft line work for my set up from tank to a new fuel pump (which i have seen at 7psi for carburetor set ups). it would then go to a malpassi filter and hopefully be regulated to 3psi and to the carb. would 7psi be okay or do i need moar psi? or do i need hard line?

 

also, any recommendations for fuel line size?

 

so far i have seen the jegs fuel pump, summit fuel pump which both are under 100. then i saw Carter Model P4389 @ 14 psi.

 

any help?

[wayno]

I have a question Burrito, did the stock fuel pump quit? I run stock unless there is no other choice at all, were you having fuel supply problems with the stock pump? My NL uses the stock fuel pump and it runs great. wayno

[burrito213]

wayno,

 

just preference.

 

I want to eliminate as much from the engine as possible.

 

but now I'm second guessing myself.

 

well, I would like as least on the engine as possible and if I can get rid of the mani fuel pump can eliminate one more hose that's near the exhaust manifold

[burrito213]

dangit wayno,

 

you got a point.

 

but what about the tubing?.... The fuel lines I have now are bad. Can I use rubber fuel line or do I need hard line?

[Pacific coast Datsun]

"

but what about the tubing?.... The fuel lines I have now are bad. Can I use rubber fuel line or do I need hard line? "

 

I ran new rubber 3/8 fuel line on my 620 & my old 320. Got it @ Napa fairly cheap.

[wayno]

My first question is how are the hardlines bad, what has made you come to that conclusion? My 521 work truck has rubber lines from the tank to the engine, I did this because I installed a second tank and a valve to change from one tank to the other. I will admit that hard lines are preferable and will last longer. You can shape a hard line to replace the old one. but getting that hard line into position can be difficult on a good day, and impossible on a bad day without pulling the cab off the frame. If you can get the whole hard line out without ruining it, then you can more than likely get the new one in. otherwise use a rubber one until you have a plan of attack. I do not like to change too much at once, as it usually costs more than I want to spend, and thats when most projects start losing steam. wayno

[burrito213]

true wayno. The cost is what is hindering me.

 

my assumption from them being bad is a lot of corroded lines. Also the color of the fuel looks like a bad batch no matter how many times I fill it.

 

I don't know. I know I am in over my head with some of these requests but I want/need a reliable daily driver. I don't want to be stuck guessing what couold be the issue if I eliminate some of them.

 

this is the first time I have dealt with a carburetored auto so the simpler for me the better. I thought if I eliminated the fuel pump that there would be one less problem.

 

as far as new fuel lines, that's a must. Trucks over 40+ years. It does need new components

[wayno]

Hi there Burrito, so go to the auto parts suppy store and buy enough rubber gas line to get from the tank to the engine, removing the tank, well it's never easy unless someone else does it, or did it just before you do it. :lol: As for the tank itself, thats a tough one, what you need to do is get it out first, then you have two avenues, cheap and expensive, cheap first, remove the plug in the bottom if possible and empty it(try this before removing the tank), then clean it up the best you can, especially around the fuel sending unit, take the fuel sending unit out, look inside for rust, if you see any then go to the fishing supply store and buy a bunch of lead shot/weights, put them in the tank and shake the shit out of the tank, the goal is to break as much of the rust loose as possible, I have heard that gravel will also work, then empty out the shot/gravel and rinse tank and let dry. Go to the auto parts store and buy a good quality tank sealer(don't get cheap, I use Bill Hirsch gas tank sealer, but I have to order it from them in Newark NJ, (800)828-2061), but the auto store probably has a good sealer also. Follow the directions and let dry. The stuff I order above will actually seal existing holes as long as they are not to big. I got in a big hurry once and just poured the sealer in the tank and shook it around and poured the extra back into the can, and let it dry, when I looked in the tank after it was dry i could see a lot of rust that was now sealed into the tank, i looked in the can of extra that I poured back in, full of rust. That tank worked fine, all the rust was sealed in and caused no problems, but don't do it that way. The sealer makes the tank like new on the inside. Next is the expensive way, after the tank is out, remove all the plugs and senders and have the tank acid dipped, probably $200.00 or more, and you still should seal it afterwards when you finally get it back. Also you have to remember that sometimes they pucture the tank to let the acid out, so then it has to be fixed. I did the expensive way once, after that, the cheap way everytime since. I have seen no differance in either way except for the cost. If you could find a PU tank and have it ready, then there is no down time. If the existing fuel pump works, use it, i would. wayno

[burrito213]

ill take some picherz when i get under there. i was hoping to tackle that last night but i will try to get on it today.

[Charlie69]

Burrito I had my tank hot tanked (high temperature acid) at a radiator shop for $65.

 

Do you want me to ship you the hubs I have here for you?

[wayno]

Burrito I had my tank hot tanked (high temperature acid) at a radiator shop for $65.

 

Do you want me to ship you the hubs I have here for you?

 

Geezz, $65.00, the last one I did was about 8 to 10 years ago, and it cost $135.00 and that was cheap compared to now, and it took them a month to get it done. They also told me the tank was old enough to have had leaded gas in it, and that was extra. I never went back, I just seal them now, it works great. wayno

[burrito213]

ive noticed that arizona has been having better deals and more reliable maintenance services.

 

thanks Charlie. pm is sent.

[Charlie69]

The thing about my tank was the y tried for a week to clean my original tank but it still had rus in it so I took them a second tank and they got that one clean. They did not charge me for the first one.

 

Burrito if you are planning a trip to AZ and are going to be staying for a few days then bring your tank with you.

[burrito213]

no charlie69... it will be a while before i make the trip to AZ. i have a place that the guy said he can dip it near my house. if not, i may take a trip to az. :D

 

 

update:

so i spoke to a guy today who can make me some fuel lines and he also recommended that i stay with the mani-fuel pump, so, i will. ill probably claen it up a little. funny thing is, i was calling a few shops around the area and one shop recommended him to me saying, "yeah, he works on datsuns. ask him"... i come to find out that he has had a previous experience with my truck long before i purchased it. nevertheless, i dont have to buy a tube bending kit. whooo hooo ;)

[wayno]

no charlie69... it will be a while before i make the trip to AZ. i have a place that the guy said he can dip it near my house. if not, i may take a trip to az. :D

 

 

update:

so i spoke to a guy today who can make me some fuel lines and he also recommended that i stay with the mani-fuel pump, so, i will. ill probably claen it up a little. funny thing is, i was calling a few shops around the area and one shop recommended him to me saying, "yeah, he works on datsuns. ask him"... i come to find out that he has had a previous experience with my truck long before i purchased it. nevertheless, i dont have to buy a tube bending kit. whooo hooo ;)

 

:thumbup: Glad it is working itself out.

[burrito213]

update: pichers!

 

started to tear down the engine today because i need to focus on one project at a time. i would love to get on the body but i know where i am going with that so i will focus on the engine now.

 

nothing too exciting but pichers never the less.

 

 

the engine drove the last time before storage so i figured that cleaning it up would be best. nothing too too bad.

 

also, note to the stubborn. research your parts before you commit. mgb is the sister looking engine to the j15/13 but not all parts are exact. i realized that i bought the water inlet for the mgb but the generator/alternator bolt can be placed "on the water inlet" for the J15/13...do'h.. i'm learning.

 

[burrito213]

i am going to be painting my engine soon but i am running into an issue with my research and products to use.

 

one of the issues is baking and curing. since i cant fit my engine into an oven, i am not too sure that i would successfully cure the paint. my studys says the heat creates a chemical process and bonding makes the paint perfect -or- involves oxygen to obtain a good cure. i can fit the smaller parts in a oven but i would like to see if i can paint the engine in one fell swoop with out removing too much.

 

then there is paint. there are two products i am looking at and maybe a thrid that Charlie69 used on his engine but the ones i can go to my local parts stores are the DUPLICOLOR and VHT. ...oh and yes, i am going to rattle can the engine. i dont have a paint gun and rattle can can probably save me a little $$ that way

 

here is what my steps are to do:

degrease

clean

laquer thinner (if needed)

clean

bead blast

engine primer (cure?)

engine paint (cure?)

sit in the sun for some time

 

 

this may be a simple question but i cant trial and error and i would like to get it right hopefully the first time. can anyone add insight to this issue?...if not, thanks anyways