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"The Blue Burrito"


burrito213

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I saved the pages for the pictures from that thread but one of my saved favorites is page 16. That's where I believe he finished painting the engine bay.

 

I won't be able to cnc the rings but I can dremmel and cut out the shape at work.

 

Thanks for the help.

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Which rubber pieces Wayne?

 

I was referring to the metal ring that holds the rubber.....I don't have any of those lest.....old ones that is....to copy. I did have new rubber cut for the headlights.

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Hey Mike, I am talking about the rubber piece that goes around the column and shifter shafts at the firewall, between the engine compartment and the interior. The rubber piece just to the left and below the brake master cylinder in this photo you took of the NL firewall here.

DCP_8536.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

okay, not really some updates but nevertheless, oics.... i will revise once the truck is rolling but for now i will archive my progress till then.

 

keep in mind i am learning and cursing on the go but it has been fun thus far.

 

some notes:

 

charlie, got your message and i will call asap. sorry man, loose track of time with work and school and life. it was good to hear from you. i will call. :D

 

chanclaus - if you follow this, where the heck did this truck come from?... there is chunks of dirt everywhere :lol:

 

 

cleaned the body and knocked the dust off the frame this weekend while the kids were playing in the kiddie pool outside.

 

today i got to work on the lights by removing them. i will try to find a local store that sells edpm rubber for the gasket rings. i havent found a place yet and the mechanic i talk to dont know really where to go to get rubber material.

 

also, does anyone have the turn signal assemblies they'd sell?..i will fix them but i was hoping to cut time by having a better pair around.

 

here are some oics then more questions:

 

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a lot of dirt was caked on.

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im probably going to rewire all the lights because the wires are sorta shot but thats the least of my worries.

 

here are the questions

 

is there a technique to removing the steering column?... is it just the three bolts at the bottom of the column?..... i started to tinker with it but i had to go get some studying done (which is technically the same time i am updating) and will play with it later.

 

and the fenders on the front? removable?....i plan on cleaning the inside and re doing the inside with truckbed liner or undercoat.

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I really have not looked into this except to measure the size, 1950 plymouth cars I think have a round rear taillight assembly that is real close to the right size for the turn signals except they are red lenses, they make them aftermarket now. Maybe the red lense can be replaced with the clear ones, or maybe the whole outer lense assembly will just fit onto the inner assembly? Do you have an old car supply outlet close to where you live? Mike actually cut the holes bigger in my rear taillight housing assemblys, and put new taillight light assembly light plugs. here is the link to the repair he did on my assemblys.

http://community.rat...l-light-repair/

Mike also had the headlight rubber made, I don't know where or how, you would have to ask him.

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Hey there Burrito, I just contacted Greg Clauss about the taillight lenses, it does not look good, he said, i quote,"sorry i have not got to that project yet i have a lot going on to tell the truth i'm not sure when i will have time to make those" end quote. Is there anybody else out there that knows someone that makes parts like taillight lenses? We need to find someone else.

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I knew I should have bought a set when the chance was there. Damn. That's sad news wayno.

 

I will look around to see what I can find. What is the process he does to make the taillights so I. Know what to say in my research. Is it injection molding?

 

I suspect it is an injection mold of some type, but I do not know anything about how he made them, he makes rubber parts, so I expect it is done the same way they are done, all I know is the economy will have to get pretty bad before he will look into the lenses I expect. We need someone more convincing than me. :lol: wayno

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Wayno, jrdat said in a pm that greg said to check in about 2 months and see if he is ready to remake the taillights. I assume that because it is summer time coming that maybe he is real busy with the motor-bike parts. I looked at the back of the nl today and realized my left tailights are cracked at the lip so now I am worried of the condition once I start driving again.

 

 

 

 

On another note,

 

Started to work on taking the lines out of the truck. They do need relacement but I don't know if I should set the lines for mklotz disc brake conversion or for the drum set up.

 

And what about removing the steering column?. Is it as smple as removing the 3 bolts or is there something I need to look out for?.

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Wayno, jrdat said in a pm that greg said to check in about 2 months and see if he is ready to remake the taillights. I assume that because it is summer time coming that maybe he is real busy with the motor-bike parts. I looked at the back of the nl today and realized my left tailights are cracked at the lip so now I am worried of the condition once I start driving again.

 

 

 

 

On another note,

 

Started to work on taking the lines out of the truck. They do need relacement but I don't know if I should set the lines for mklotz disc brake conversion or for the drum set up.

 

And what about removing the steering column?. Is it as smple as removing the 3 bolts or is there something I need to look out for?.

 

Who is "jrdat"? Is this someone with leverage? Should he/she be the one that comunicates with greg rather than me? I just want a couple sets of new rear lenses, nothing looks better than new. You bought the new dual master brake cylinder, correct? I would just put the disc brake setup on and be done with that part, they sell brake line double flaring tools at the parts stores, if I can do it, anybody can, remember though they need to be double flared. As for removing the steering column, why are you removing it? Is it bad? Remove the tierods, buy a fork for removing them, remove all the steering hardware and turn signal hardware also, then unbolt from the bottom of the dash, then remove the 3 bolts holding the steering gear box on, then remove it by pulling up over the front radiator core support, if your seat is nice, be sure to make sure the column doesn't hurt the seat when lifting the steering column gearbox out of the engine compartment.

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Cool. Thanks mike and wayno. I will look into it. I may just tape around the column and paint it but I like to know about the option and see what I needed to do.

 

Wayno, as far as the taillights go. I understand you are working on it but there are other people than just you and me with an NL who needs taillights. I told him (jrdat) who the company was and to email them to show there is a continued interest in these taillights. Greg isn't exclusive unless I am wrong about that. He makes a great product and the more people who show interest, maybe, the more interested clausstudios will become to make these tailights and front turn signals.

 

If I can make them myself I would. But I cant, so I am doing my best to give the information a fellow ratsuner requested.

 

I will post pics of some stuff I did today and yesterday. Semi updates or you can just call it the "diary of burritos' NL320" as it seems my updates share simpler updates of progress and trials rather than epic progress.

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I just found out jrdat is the one that bought the NL320, we have been talking a little about it, he PMed me when I was unable to find the 65 L320 for sale on the seattle craigslist that he had posted in the for sale on craigslist thread. That is one dirty L320. Burrito, the steering column assembly is a lot easier to get out if the engine isn't in the pickup. Why are you removing it?

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wayno, the reason for removal of the steering column is to see how to remove it, clean it up, and paint it. everything is off, the engine, tranny, and there is still leaking which turned out to be the steering box.

 

here are some random pics of progress and set back:

 

pulled and drain the tank. since my fuel gauge on the truck didnt work i topped it off before the tranny went out so i had a full tank of bad fuel. i may still use the fuel as a cleaner before i take the rest to a recycling center. the main reason for the tank removal is i knew the tank was rusted. sadly it looked great on one side but rusty on the other. i assume at some point the truck sat for some time and the settled gas ate at the tank but that is just an assumption.

 

here is the tank off:

1308106126882.jpg

 

inside of the tank:

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here is the fuel level gauge. tried to clean it up a bit before it got too late. i bought another one of ebay but it was the wrong one. if mine works, i will sell the other one (newer) if anyone is interested.:

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the new one:

1308108497334.jpg

 

on another note, here is the taillight. never knew it was this bad. it is literally cracked in half and only held by the screws.

1308106294377.jpg

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inside from the back...i may pressure wash the back because that is dirt on the inside and throw in new wires for the tailights:

 

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question? do the back panels come off or is it a true testament to the NL, a unibody?...i have seen the fronts removed it think in some photos but i think they tacked on the fronts to mine . i will have to take a better look. if i can get in there, ill clean it up and throw some undercoat for protection. ;)

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I don't think thee rear panels are meant to be removed Burrito, I wouldn't be looking to close in certain areas either, you might find things you didn't/don't want to know about, I did.

I just squirted rust inhibiter into this area(pic. below) above the wheel well till it came out everywhere, of course that was after the panel was repaired with new metal, oh, on both sides.:(

I would just buy a quality tank sealer and follow the directions, I did and had no trouble with rust after that day in the tank.

 

1308106532637.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

update:

 

gas tank went to the local radiator shop for cleaning and he said it was a good tank and the damage wasnt too bad. just waiting for pick up or an update

 

* on a side note: did some research for an aftermarket fuel tank but i couldnt afford it. not bad pricing but when you start to add tank, sending unit, filler neck, etc... it gets expensive.

___________________________

 

also went to the all datson swapmeet in eaglerock and picked up some silicone hose and wanted to see if the pieces i bought will fit when i get the engine back in but nevertheless i did get a good price for the extra pieces the guy wanted to sell.

 

also picked up a fan with a fan shroud but like all impulse buys i did not know the size i needed for my radiator and the fan ended up a little bigger than expected. i may need to get a custom fan shroud made or make on myself but then again what you think. honest opinions please, will it work, too big, cool, yeah, not so much?.. :)

 

below is an pic of the fan and radiator only. i took the fan shroud off:

1309125657768.jpg

 

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then i also found a place here in southern cali that sell EPDM rubber sheet for the gaskets to the truck. what is a good size material for the headlight, taillight, signals

would you recommed 1/16" or 1/8"...i assume a decent seal is the idea but i bet the gasket is good for keeping the vibration down both are thin but i never cut gaskets for a build before so i could get some help on this: :geek:

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Hey Burrito, why do you need an electric fan? Does your pickup over heat? Every rig I have ever did a swap or modified, I use the stock fan unless there is no other way. I will go to great lengths to use the stock fan, most the time I have made the radiator bigger till the fan would fit. The only rig I have with a electric fan is my 47 chevy PU, the stock fan works, but not good enough for stop and go city driving, the stock chevy V8 fan is not centered on the radiator, so I put an electric in the front between the radiator and grill. My MGTD will also need an electric fan, but I have no choice, the engine sits so low that the fan would need to be less than 8" round, so I have no fan right now, but I don't drive it except around the block every once in a while. Was your PU overheating when you were driving it? Use the "Kiss" logic, keep it simple stupid. I will run stock on my rig, less shit to go wrong.

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  • 1 month later...

holy shnikees, i made it to page 2. note to self, finish the damn truck. :D

 

so i am making a snails progress but i gutted the engine bay, rattle canned it, and put some clear on the for protection. i hate the way it came out but thats what i get for buying the material before i sought council. never the less, the front of the chassis is next and i will blast and then use por15 to finish it off. my hope is painting on the por 15 will be a better option than rattle can the chassis.

 

there is a couple of other plans but they will come together when they get there. this build is going back in baby steps because outside the datsun, life is a roller coaster. wayno has been helping me with my tailight housing questions and there is a ratsuner helping me find parts for the truck in thailand . seems like everyone else is helping too with my updates/status's rather than posting to my thread. thank you.

 

progress pics posting soon:

 

right now i have my mechanic checking my progress:

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lol :lol:

 

issue pics posting now. anybody know anybody that repairs these? looks like the upper link bushing is shot. any help?, the other side looks okay

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  • 2 weeks later...

found out our new beagle with is almost a year chewed on my rear lights... damn dog!

 

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recent stuff:

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1313457025352.jpg

 

 

i still want to stay with the patina look but have a cleaner engine bay.a lot of times, people put all the work on the outside but when you pop the hood, it becomes a neglected item... but its gettin' there. i found mike klotz's disc brake kit while i was cleaning up some stuff so i probably will prep that next and under coat the inner front fenders and get the front back together.

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