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nukeday

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monitor the old side.

often the pressure will cause failure on the old when only 1 was replaced.

 

What? You mean like every other Datsun I've ever owned? lol...I have the wheel cylinder waiting to go in. I contemplated just putting them both in at the same time and ran out of time to work on it. If I waste my new shoes, I'll be pretty unhappy...

 

Anyone have photos of the 2dr back seat area with the seat removed? I think I have a solution for mounting the seats, but I'd like to know about where the original clips are supposed to go. How is the bottom held in?

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Anyone have photos of the 2dr back seat area with the seat removed? I think I have a solution for mounting the seats, but I'd like to know about where the original clips are supposed to go. How is the bottom held in?

did okayfine answer it on the realm?

 

i need to finish cutting those out on mine, so ill do my best to get a pic...

 

IIRC theyre above of each top of the Xbrace and 1 in the center.

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Discovered last night that the 521 gauge cluster plug is the same as the early 510. The pinouts are different, but I've got three 521 harnesses here to experiment with. Looked under the dash for quite awhile, and the original wiring isn't actually hacked too badly. The factory plugs were cut off and then terminated at the new gauges/switches.

 

I was pretty happy about this development, but didn't actually get any work done on the car today. :(

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Discovered last night that the 521 gauge cluster plug is the same as the early 510. The pinouts are different, but I've got three 521 harnesses here to experiment with.

the pins can be removed and then matched if the housings are the same.

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Ended up spending way longer on the minivan brakes than I wanted, stupid floating caliper pins. :angry:

 

Went to start the 510 and the battery is flat. Put the bump box on it and it started right up and stayed running. Pulled the + cable off and it died immediately. *sigh*

 

Anyway, got two things done today on the 510...

 

It's now street legal.

It's got hood bling.

 

330_3041.jpg

 

Oh, and I drove it about 10 miles. If the speedo is correct it's doing 3000 Rpm in 4th at 60 mph....hmmmm.... :hmm:

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You answered my question in this post

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21129-help-please-510-seat-mounts/

 

You pictures were just what I needed, even if you didn't know.

 

If you haven't solved the back seat mounting, let me know. I have mine out at the moment and can check anything out you need.

 

BTW, wish my floor pans were that good :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent the last couple of days messing with the alternator and wiring on this car. Man, what a mess.

 

Got an IR 60 amp alt from a 280Z and put it in, removed the VR. While back probing the chassis side VR connector about 3 of the wires just fell out. One had 3 strands holding it to the connector in the plug. Since it basically fell off, I just cut it out. Left the LW (blue/white) wire just hanging. I hard wired the RW from the harness to the BW (F) on the alt. Since the car did have a 68/69 VR in it, I ran the yellow wire (N) right to the plus side of the battery. Ran a ground (E) directly from the alt to the body. Simplified the mess I had dramatically, but I didn't actually fix anything. The improvement is that it's no longer draining the battery flat.

 

There is a hot wire coming directly from the battery to a second fuse block in the car for my 'aircraft gauge' dash. No matter what load I put on it, the voltmeter pretty much sits at the same output. I had 12.75 on a fresh battery, all accesories on and various RPM's. Grrr.

 

IRAltwiringMY69.jpg

 

Additionally, I've got a headlight/running light problem now, appears to be the relay. I haven't sorted out how the running lights are wired yet. This dash has 4 separate switches for the lights. Switch one is for the headlights, switch two is for the dash/running lights, switch three is a master power for the independent, relay switched H4 high beams, switch four is a pushbutton that activates the relay and turns on the highs.

 

Tonight I went out to start it and turned on the lights. Turned on the headlight switch, and then the running lights/dash lights switch. The headlights shut off. Turned the dash lights off, and without messing with the already turned on headlights, they came back on. Grrr. The headlights lit up slowly, so I'm pretty sure it's just a sticking relay, but what a pain.

 

Nothing else productive really done on this mess, I'm mostly concerned at this point about it being able to actually make the drive to Canby.

 

I really need to get my hands on a '69 dash harness.

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I am going to attempt to reinstall a factory light switch.

 

I've got a 4 prong unit from a 521, it appears internally the same as the 510. I found a relay diagram on the 510realm for the headlights, and since the H4's are already on their own circuit, it should be relatively straight forward to wire the marker lights and low beams in on their own relay.

 

This drawing uses input power for the lights directly from the battery, and uses the switch as a trigger, so it doesn't run the full 12V draw through the switch. The drawing also allows use of the factory high beam switch, if mine is functional I'll try to use it. From looking at the car, without actually wringing out any wiring, it appears the secondary fuse box is for the gauges and the rear coffee can taillights only. That could make using the factory switch a bit of an adventure, however I should be able to simplify the wiring pretty significantly.

 

I need to do a good physical inspection on the factory fuse box, the extra one I have here has melted plastic around both the headlight fuses. A quick check the other day indicated the 12V inputs are all live on the factory box in the car.

 

Hopefully, I'll get lucky and some of the factory dash harness is intact, the rear light harness is factory, except where it goes into the coffee cans. The engine bay harness is also stock and relatively uncut. So, I'm crossing my fingers I'll have some wiring with factory colors under the dash.

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Did a little work on this today. I filled and sealed most of the inside floors. I used some body adhesive and thin metal to patch the larger areas. Pretty boring stuff. The sealant needs to cure a couple of days, and I'll spray it and get some sound deadener in. Had really hoped to get my front buckets set up and the brackets made, but just ran out of time and energy.

 

My brain keeps telling me I'm 20, but the rest of my physiology refuses to agree... :sweat:

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Good idea, haven't fully committed to an interior color scheme yet, though. Doing the front seats in black would at least mostly match the stock rear seat I have. I can probably build my headlight relays and wiring, and install them when it's not raining. I was going to coat the floors with some epoxy sealant, maybe I'll try to roll it on rather than spray it. I could do it a section at a time that way and not gas myself out of the car...

 

Thanks hang_510, I wonder some days if I just give up too easily...lol..

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had intended to sort of keep this 'under wraps' until Canby, but the primary surprise target was Skib, and he was here and looked the car over a couple of weeks ago. Since this is the first precipitation free day we've had in about a month, I took full advantage and got most of these graphics applied.

 

I really like the Street Fighter theme that Skib is doing from Fisch's drawing, but I didn't want to 'compete'. So, I worked with CreepyCruiser, an uncle in the DoD and some WWII plane books and came up with this.

 

It's fashioned after a Yak-9 WWII Soviet Fighter. The masks were perfect, Creepy did an awesome job. I have some 'kill' stickers to add yet. The russian text reads 'Coffee Can'. The kill stickers will be the word 'Folgers' with an X through it. Have a little bit more to do to finish up the front as well. The 'rivets' are hole punched metal tape, they look much better in the photos than they do for real, but hey, it's a ratsun. :)

 

Still not sure the car will be at Canby, but I figured I'd put the graphics on regardless. The spray paint really pops in these photos, it's been intentionally aged and scuffed and is not nearly as bright in person.

 

I'd like to hear your opinions?

 

334_3458.jpg

 

334_3462.jpg

 

334_3461.jpg

 

334_3460.jpg

 

334_3463.jpg

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