nukeday Posted April 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 monitor the old side. often the pressure will cause failure on the old when only 1 was replaced. What? You mean like every other Datsun I've ever owned? lol...I have the wheel cylinder waiting to go in. I contemplated just putting them both in at the same time and ran out of time to work on it. If I waste my new shoes, I'll be pretty unhappy... Anyone have photos of the 2dr back seat area with the seat removed? I think I have a solution for mounting the seats, but I'd like to know about where the original clips are supposed to go. How is the bottom held in? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 Anyone have photos of the 2dr back seat area with the seat removed? I think I have a solution for mounting the seats, but I'd like to know about where the original clips are supposed to go. How is the bottom held in? did okayfine answer it on the realm? i need to finish cutting those out on mine, so ill do my best to get a pic... IIRC theyre above of each top of the Xbrace and 1 in the center. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted April 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 Think I've got it figured out, okayfine did give me some specifics on the seat. The seat back I've got should work. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Discovered last night that the 521 gauge cluster plug is the same as the early 510. The pinouts are different, but I've got three 521 harnesses here to experiment with. Looked under the dash for quite awhile, and the original wiring isn't actually hacked too badly. The factory plugs were cut off and then terminated at the new gauges/switches. I was pretty happy about this development, but didn't actually get any work done on the car today. :( Quote Link to comment
Unclejesse88 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 If you are in need of factory replacement connectors, check out vintage connections. Look at their non-latching connectors. I haven't tried the small terminal connectors yet, but the large terminal connectors are perfect replacements. I assume the small ones would work too, but don't quote me on that. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Discovered last night that the 521 gauge cluster plug is the same as the early 510. The pinouts are different, but I've got three 521 harnesses here to experiment with. the pins can be removed and then matched if the housings are the same. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted April 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Ended up spending way longer on the minivan brakes than I wanted, stupid floating caliper pins. :angry: Went to start the 510 and the battery is flat. Put the bump box on it and it started right up and stayed running. Pulled the + cable off and it died immediately. *sigh* Anyway, got two things done today on the 510... It's now street legal. It's got hood bling. Oh, and I drove it about 10 miles. If the speedo is correct it's doing 3000 Rpm in 4th at 60 mph....hmmmm.... :hmm: Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 that sounds about right actually Quote Link to comment
dgi Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 You answered my question in this post http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21129-help-please-510-seat-mounts/ You pictures were just what I needed, even if you didn't know. If you haven't solved the back seat mounting, let me know. I have mine out at the moment and can check anything out you need. BTW, wish my floor pans were that good :( Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted May 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 Spent the last couple of days messing with the alternator and wiring on this car. Man, what a mess. Got an IR 60 amp alt from a 280Z and put it in, removed the VR. While back probing the chassis side VR connector about 3 of the wires just fell out. One had 3 strands holding it to the connector in the plug. Since it basically fell off, I just cut it out. Left the LW (blue/white) wire just hanging. I hard wired the RW from the harness to the BW (F) on the alt. Since the car did have a 68/69 VR in it, I ran the yellow wire (N) right to the plus side of the battery. Ran a ground (E) directly from the alt to the body. Simplified the mess I had dramatically, but I didn't actually fix anything. The improvement is that it's no longer draining the battery flat. There is a hot wire coming directly from the battery to a second fuse block in the car for my 'aircraft gauge' dash. No matter what load I put on it, the voltmeter pretty much sits at the same output. I had 12.75 on a fresh battery, all accesories on and various RPM's. Grrr. Additionally, I've got a headlight/running light problem now, appears to be the relay. I haven't sorted out how the running lights are wired yet. This dash has 4 separate switches for the lights. Switch one is for the headlights, switch two is for the dash/running lights, switch three is a master power for the independent, relay switched H4 high beams, switch four is a pushbutton that activates the relay and turns on the highs. Tonight I went out to start it and turned on the lights. Turned on the headlight switch, and then the running lights/dash lights switch. The headlights shut off. Turned the dash lights off, and without messing with the already turned on headlights, they came back on. Grrr. The headlights lit up slowly, so I'm pretty sure it's just a sticking relay, but what a pain. Nothing else productive really done on this mess, I'm mostly concerned at this point about it being able to actually make the drive to Canby. I really need to get my hands on a '69 dash harness. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 Keep the faith Nuke! Keep imagining how awesome it will be to cruise this thing once you get all the gremlins ironed out! Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted May 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 I am going to attempt to reinstall a factory light switch. I've got a 4 prong unit from a 521, it appears internally the same as the 510. I found a relay diagram on the 510realm for the headlights, and since the H4's are already on their own circuit, it should be relatively straight forward to wire the marker lights and low beams in on their own relay. This drawing uses input power for the lights directly from the battery, and uses the switch as a trigger, so it doesn't run the full 12V draw through the switch. The drawing also allows use of the factory high beam switch, if mine is functional I'll try to use it. From looking at the car, without actually wringing out any wiring, it appears the secondary fuse box is for the gauges and the rear coffee can taillights only. That could make using the factory switch a bit of an adventure, however I should be able to simplify the wiring pretty significantly. I need to do a good physical inspection on the factory fuse box, the extra one I have here has melted plastic around both the headlight fuses. A quick check the other day indicated the 12V inputs are all live on the factory box in the car. Hopefully, I'll get lucky and some of the factory dash harness is intact, the rear light harness is factory, except where it goes into the coffee cans. The engine bay harness is also stock and relatively uncut. So, I'm crossing my fingers I'll have some wiring with factory colors under the dash. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted May 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 Did a little work on this today. I filled and sealed most of the inside floors. I used some body adhesive and thin metal to patch the larger areas. Pretty boring stuff. The sealant needs to cure a couple of days, and I'll spray it and get some sound deadener in. Had really hoped to get my front buckets set up and the brackets made, but just ran out of time and energy. My brain keeps telling me I'm 20, but the rest of my physiology refuses to agree... :sweat: Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted May 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Can this be right? Weather.com says it's going to rain here for the next 10 days. I have stuff to do that I need to do when it's dry. Dang. :( Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted May 16, 2010 Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Has anyone used fabric paint to change seat colors? This stuff from fabricspraypaint.com looks pretty trick. I'm curious how it holds up, how long it stays put, how quickly it fades, etc... any seat color update? :hmm: rainy day task? Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted May 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Good idea, haven't fully committed to an interior color scheme yet, though. Doing the front seats in black would at least mostly match the stock rear seat I have. I can probably build my headlight relays and wiring, and install them when it's not raining. I was going to coat the floors with some epoxy sealant, maybe I'll try to roll it on rather than spray it. I could do it a section at a time that way and not gas myself out of the car... Thanks hang_510, I wonder some days if I just give up too easily...lol.. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 23, 2010 Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 Just thought the 510 2 door went further back. How in the wild word of sports do you climb into the back seat in them things????? You don't. :lol: If you want to actually use the back seat, you buy a 4dr. :cool: Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted June 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Another setback. This car is now for sale outright. Have one interested party here, he gets first call. Local and soon will get priority. PM offers. Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 this thing better be at canby if you dont sell it. Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted June 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I'm hoping it will be at Canby even if I do sell it. :) Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 4, 2010 Report Share Posted June 4, 2010 I'm hoping it will be at Canby even if I do sell it. :) Get me those camber plates before you sell it man, least so i can make a copy!!! Quote Link to comment
nukeday Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 I had intended to sort of keep this 'under wraps' until Canby, but the primary surprise target was Skib, and he was here and looked the car over a couple of weeks ago. Since this is the first precipitation free day we've had in about a month, I took full advantage and got most of these graphics applied. I really like the Street Fighter theme that Skib is doing from Fisch's drawing, but I didn't want to 'compete'. So, I worked with CreepyCruiser, an uncle in the DoD and some WWII plane books and came up with this. It's fashioned after a Yak-9 WWII Soviet Fighter. The masks were perfect, Creepy did an awesome job. I have some 'kill' stickers to add yet. The russian text reads 'Coffee Can'. The kill stickers will be the word 'Folgers' with an X through it. Have a little bit more to do to finish up the front as well. The 'rivets' are hole punched metal tape, they look much better in the photos than they do for real, but hey, it's a ratsun. :) Still not sure the car will be at Canby, but I figured I'd put the graphics on regardless. The spray paint really pops in these photos, it's been intentionally aged and scuffed and is not nearly as bright in person. I'd like to hear your opinions? Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 damn thats cool, i wish i had the funds to buy it from you. I really want a 2 door. and im worried who ever buys it wont be cool enough to keep it that way Quote Link to comment
Jassifrass Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 i really like how that came out it looks awesome :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
lardlungs Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 i love that thing! almost makes me want to fuck mine up on purpose. ha Quote Link to comment
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