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nukeday

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same bracket in many datsuns as well!

 

Dont know if it helps any but the rearview in a 610 has the same clip and a night/day switch and looks damn near identical otherwise and the mirror in an 810 has the same screw pattern as the base but no clip... In my opinion that thing is begging for a wink mirror though :rolleyes:

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Thanks guys, there is one sort of hanging in the car, but I don't think it's even a Datsun piece.

 

In my opinion that thing is begging for a wink mirror though :rolleyes:

A wink mirror, good idea! Probably had one once, visors are missing, and the current rearview is obviously an afterthought. What's the right size for a 510?

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Anyone out there running a Weber 32/36 on an L16 w/L20 head? I'm curious what jets you're using?

 

The current setup is for the L20b and it's running a huge exhaust. It's a safe bet the L16 will run rich if I just hook it all up...

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Worked on this car for about 10 hours or so today. skunktruckin came over and helped most of the day, Thanks! There are just some things that are SO much easier with two people. I pulled the L20 myself, and discovered I needed an L16 TO bearing. Local parts place had one in stock with the collar.

 

327_2800.jpg

 

Got the L16 in, and for whatever reason decided to put the EI dizzy in that was on the L20. Got everything hooked up and tried to start it, but no joy. I'll mess with it some more in the next couple of days. Supposed to be nice again on Saturday.

 

328_2804.jpg

 

Also got a set of Z door handles today, haven't had much luck getting the inside handles off, and I had bigger fish to fry. Yeah, I know, I should have cleaned the engine bay...

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On an L16, where is the crank pulley pointer actually pointing? Below, the slotted circle represents the crank pulley. Is the red pointer TDC or 10* BTDC?

 

L16w_matchbox.jpg

 

datzenmike - I forgot to measure the trans today, here is a picture into the bell. Is it any help at all?

 

327_2799.jpg

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nuke, does your L16 have these marks on the the crank pully, I think you line up the first groove (bottom one) to be TDC.

IMG_2842.jpg

or you can take off the valve cover and line up the 2 marks on the retainer plate

& cam gear for TDC.

IMG_2846.jpg

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Got the timing figured out, I ended up putting the dizzy in with the vacuum advance canister pointing down, it was a lot easier to get at the adjustments that way. I had tried to set up the timing 180 out. Corrected that today and now it runs!

 

th_328_2806.jpg

 

Didn't run it too long, I still need to hook up the electric fan for the rad, and it looks like one of the heater hoses is leaking. Otherwise, my wife gave me an A+ :D

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Nice Nuke! Did you use the EI pedestal? I haven't done the swap on mine but remember for some reason you can't use the L16 one with the EI.

The EI was on the L20 to begin with, so I just transferred the whole thing, pedastal and all.

 

nuke, does your L16 have these marks on the the crank pully, I think you line up the first groove (bottom one) to be TDC.

There are actually no notches in the crank pulley at all. The only mark on it is a small dab of white paint. Got it figured out today, don't have it final timed yet, I just did it by ear. Looks like my mark is TDC though.

 

My wife asked me today, 'So can you drive it now? What does it need to be on the road?'. I *think* I can get by with getting keys made for the door locks, get the outside door handles on, and then title and registration. It's going to need an interior and floor pan work at some point, and the electrics need to be investigated and made road worthy. Hopefully that's stuff I can do at leisure. Even with the 'new' engine, I should have the car on the road for less than $1K. :D

 

Thanks for the comments guys, I am stoked that it runs, it's gonna' be fun.

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I ran it through the gears, and it seems OK. Haven't actually driven it yet. I'm not keen to spray oil all over under the hood, I'm waiting on the blow by vent tube. I need to time it by a light, too. Noticed yesterday that the rear brake reservoir is empty, so I'll need to look into that. I also need to fab up something to cover the lower half of the flywheel, get the cooling fan hooked up and figure out what the heck is going on with the headlights. Looks like tomorrow will be nice, so I'll dink with that stuff. Found a piece of coroplast laying in the road, should work for the flywheel cover, cooling fan should take about 10 minutes, a brake inspection is in order and then the lights...who knows how long that will take.

 

My oldest's b-day is coming up, and I'm not sure I'll even have the money to get tags and title for it 'til the end of the month. Gives me some time to sort stuff out.

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Not yet. I have to fashion something up to cover the lower 1/2 of the flywheel. The tags expired in '08, so the best I'll be able to do until I pay for tags/title is to drive it on the back streets anyway.

 

Went to start it today and flooded it so bad, I couldn't get it started. Didn't feel like pulling all the plugs and airing it out, so I'll just let it sit. This Weber has NO choke whatsoever, probably need to fix that. I had hoped to time it, but I'll get it in the next couple of days.

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I'm running a Mr. Gasket 9710 Fuel Regulator, I have it set to about 3 on the dial. It ran fine the other day, I just dumped way too much fuel in it. I also discovered that the ballast resistor is still inline for the EI dizzy. I'll pull that out before I try to start it next time.

 

Messed with the headlights/hi beam a little bit, I think the 'hi beam switch' is sticking. Maybe there is some combination of switches that I haven't figured out yet. It's quite an interesting bit of wiring. The high beams have been upgraded to some sort of flat lense H4 setup, the switch is lighted and seems to be a part of the 'upgrade'. It reads On/Off and is wired into a relay. Haven't wrung it out yet, but either the switch is bad or the relay is stuck.

 

327_2760.jpg

 

You can see the switch at about 9 o'clock through the steering wheel here:

 

327_2747.jpg

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