Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)

[dimedriver]

Try the coil you have. It may work but expect it not to last.

 

Look up the coil for a 76 or newer Z car. not the turbo's they used CAS so different setup.

 

You can pull your distributor out and turn it with a drill to test or try it on the car.

 

You can also use the a points dizzy to trigger the GM HEI module.

 

http://www.mynode.com/2wheel/?t=simple.html&v=hei/index.html

Don't use the 7 pin module its made for computer advance. The four pin is what you want.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

The problem with the GM HEI is that the GM coils were made to fit on top of the distributor so they are really hard to mount. HEI also has trouble with high revving engines. If you rev past 5k try and get a performance HEI module and coil set. The match box is a better module.

 

Here are some videos I posted on Youtube of different coils and modules combos being fired from an L series distributor.

 

<-- really cool sparks from the coil here.

 

 

 

<-- this blaster 2 coil was really old maybe 20 or 30 years old.

 

I am running the pertronix ignition with flame thrower coil. I don't like it my spark seems weak. Im going to try the points triggered HEI later.

 

-Dime

[dimedriver]

Here is a better hei points trigger.
erry's Points triggered ignition.[/url] Its simpler and uses the correct older HEI module. He also uses a Ford Duraspark coil. I think they are off mid 80's fords with that TFI ignition. Maybe an 86 Crown Vic I remember mine had a similar coil.


-Dime

[jeepinjakear15]

So how do I tell what electronic ignition will work with the distributor I have? How do I identify the distributor?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would see if your point set part # is the same as with a single point set 68-69 Datsun 510.

If yes I assume the holes mounts on the distributor plate for the points. cause they then would be same for the 68-69. I know the 510 pertronix 1741 fits some of the Single point Roadster dizzys also.

Pertronix uses the stock coil and ballast resisitor

 

Be nice to see a photo.

 

MKlotz would be a better expert or can give a better insite as I know nothing about the 320 series.

Shit they could be Positive Ground all I know.

[racerx]

yeh, I would go Pertronix. I think they are about $80 or so. Cehck out their web site. I recently installed one. easy install but I had to splice the wire since it was kinda of short, could not reach the coil. No points..you set- it and forget it.

[dimedriver]

I have both the Pertronix and a matchbox. I like the matchbox better. The Pertronix limits the coils you can use and is no better than points except for not needed to be cleaned and adjusted. I also feel the spark is a little on the weak side even compared to points.

 

The matchbox dizzy's are on here for $50 all the time. They are just as easy to install. I would get the 280zx coil or the MSD blaster2 for it though. It will burn up a normal points coil.

 

 

-Dime

[racerx]

good article by DQ:

 

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/productreviews/pertronix_ignitor.shtml

 

 

when you say you are limited to a type of coil, what do you mean? I've ran 3 different type of hi-po and stock coils on my 510 and 2 other wagons and no problem.

[dimedriver]

In the install guide that came with my Pertronix. It claims that you must use a points style coil and you should also run the resistor if you are not in a racing environment.

 

From the Pertronix web site, "System is designed for use with most point-type coils".

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

 

The MSD Blasters require a resistor when used with a points system MSD P/N8200 or 8203.

http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx?taxid=6

 

If your using a resistor your limiting the current the coil can charge with. In turn limiting the power used to make the arc at the spark plug.

 

The matchbox does not require a resistor and it's cheaper. You also don't need to find one of the single points dizzys.

 

-Dime

[banzai510(hainz)]

Point coil doesn not want a full voltage and can get Hot and COOK inside.

Pertronix.Unilite and other point Conversions ect its the same.

 

Later coils are desigen for the full 12-14volts and a ballast not needed as the distributor module can handle the increase current.

 

 

alot of people put Accell Supercoils(.7 ohm) on a point system on Pertronix or the Unilete will burn up over time.

 

somepeople get away with it some dont. V8 maybe more.

 

 

Do as the intructions say. READ Carefully.

[FCRUDY]

ok i put the wires like the diagram seas but i was wondering am i supose to cancle anything out or just conect the wires from the box to the coil and yes there is a hell of a spark going on cars turns on on the dime and eaven runs better but still if it gets wet will it still turn off and did i do it all good thank you

[banzai510(hainz)]

FCRUDY

Tell us what you did 1st as this is a long post.

Exactly what you did as we are not mind readers

[datzenmike]

Placebo effect. This is where if you believe it will work better you will find that it does. I've seen this in people that spend hundreds of $ on an ignition system and in reality it's no better than stock. If you believe something strongly enough it's real. To you that is. If you spend $50 on a coil and cap it has to run better. If you spend $150 it just has to be 3 times better. The butt dyno is not a reliable device and if you are expecting something you will 'feel' it. After market companies make lots of money from gizmos that cost big bucks and do just about the same as stock.

[FCRUDY]

ok well truthfully all i did was run the wirse frome the match box to the coil first i had them rong car woudnt turn on then i switched them and it started rite up but the car seams to idle rouph struggles and i just had the motor rebuilt u can eaven smeel unbert gas eavry now and then

[dimedriver]

Both the Mach Box and the Pertronix will do a little better if the distributor gets wet but not much.

The major issue with water getting into the distributor is that the arc can get to more than one plug. This is true with all distributor based ignitions. If your having trouble with normal rain you may want to look into how your hood is sealing. If you live in an area where torrential down pour and fording 6 inch deep water is normal(GA/FL) you may have to take a few extra measures. Make sure you really clean out your dizzy. Its the contaminates that allow the arc to get to the other terminals. Replace your rotor and cap regularly and maybe even seal it with some electrical tape. Run new NGK plug wires. An old set of wires can short out when wet. Try spraying some water on the plug wires while the car is running in a dark garage. You will see a halo if they are arcing.

 

-Dime

[dimedriver]

Have you set the timing with the timing light?

Is the Vacum advance referencing the correct vacum (carb vs. intake)?

 

 

-Dime

[FCRUDY]

Have you set the timing with the timing light?

Is the Vacum advance referencing the correct vacum (carb vs. intake)?

 

 

-Dime

 

 

ILL BE CHEKING THE TIMING THIS AFTERNOON AND AS FOR THE VACUME THERE ARE MANY JOSES THAT ARE COVERED HALF OF THEM IM SHURE ARNT CONECTED TO WERE THEY ARE SUPOS TO GO IF ONLY THERE WAS A VACUME DIAGRAM TO RE RUN THEM ALL

[hang_510]

caps lock OFF!

some puncuation is needed!

grammar too

 

 

 

do you have a manual? should have the diagram.

 

THERE ARE MANY JOSES

:rofl:

[Skib]

ILL BE CHEKING THE TIMING THIS AFTERNOON AND AS FOR THE VACUME THERE ARE MANY JOSES THAT ARE COVERED HALF OF THEM IM SHURE ARNT CONECTED TO WERE THEY ARE SUPOS TO GO IF ONLY THERE WAS A VACUME DIAGRAM TO RE RUN THEM ALL

 

 

 

 

 

THERE ARE MANY JOSES

 

around here? yes, there are.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

caps lock makes a post 10x harder to read and so does shitty grammar and spelling. take a second to go over what you wrote before posting.

 

because if we cant read it we cant help you.

[skunk]

Some modules come with special grease designed to conduct heat. The grease should be applied to the back of the module to further improve heat transfer to the mounting surface. Do not use dielectric grease for this purpose. Some types can reduce heat transfer instead of improve it.

 

 

so Jessi is in the middle of doing a el dizzy swap in her 710, and shes using the remote module style dizzy, well she lost the grease that cam with the module. any one know what we could use in its place?

[mklotz70]

I'm pretty sure the parts stores sell dielectric grease....I'm thinking it's a silicone grease. Small white tube with red writing every time I've found it. You can use wheel bearing grease, but I'd clean it back off and use the right stuff when you get it. Just don't put a whole lot on...you don't want it flying off the dizzy lobes.....not that it spins that fast anyway. :)

[dimedriver]

The grease needed For mounting the GM-HEI or Nissan "matchbox" is a thermal grease. Its main purpose is to move heat. Corrosion prevention is secondary.

 

If you just say you need the grease for a GM HEI module at a "good" parts store they will know what you want.

You could also goto a computer shop and get heat sink compound. Some times called heat sink grease. It comes in white and silver(gray). The gray may work better because I think it should also ground threw it. The white stuff sometimes does not conduct electricity well.

 

 

 

-AVery

[mklotz70]

LOL!!!! for some reason, I had points on the brain and was thinking of the grease that the rubbing block uses when riding against the dizzy cam!! WOW!!! I've actually amazed myself at just how "off" I was on that one!!! DOH!!!

[jun]

Great write up!

 

For the matchbox setup, I would highly recommend....require....a dedicated ground wire from the body of the dizzy to the body.....I typically go to the core support or back to the battery. It's hard to kill a matchbox unit, but a lot of them get misdiagnosed as bad due to the lack of a good ground.

 

 

This bit of information was extremely helpful the other day. I've been having some erratic ignition issues lately- tach was jumping randomly in RPMs. After running a dedicated ground as mklotz said, problem solved! So if anyone has this sort of problem, and you haven't done this, give it a shot, it fixed my issue. Thanks again Ratsun :D

[hang_510]

tach was jumping randomly in RPMs.

when the additional ground did not correct my issue, i looked closer at the rotor/reluctor and found minor damage to it, especially >2500 RPM's.

i replaced it, and that solved the same symptom.

[Barber Phil]

Great write up just did mine today and it worked perfectly Appreciate the help.