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Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)


72wagun

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If you don't have dedicated grounds to dizzy body and the HEI unit, I'd lay my money on that being the prob. For them to handle the greater current load, they both need good grounds. If I remember right, there's a metal feral that runs through the hei unit.....so that when the screw mounts, it also grounds the unit. I've personally seen a handful of times where the dizzy body ground made all the difference in the world. You can't trust it to ground well through a 35 year old oily bolt.....there's a gasket(or should be) at the base of the dizzy, so that only grounds through the bolt....and that's into a timing cover that is also separated by gaskets. Put an ohm meter to the coil and measure the resistance if you want to know if it's bad or not.

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YOu dont want to run the point coil w/o a ballast resisitor for too long it will get HOT. Stock Datsun Point coils run with ballast resisitor they are designed that way. Its hows in the NON matchbOx drawing a 79 coil. These means 79 to make it EZ for you. yes the 78s could have the EI also. those will work but we pick 79 cause we know for sure.

 

You might want to add/use the HOT START wire. Like in the drawing.

 

use the balster 2 and should work.

 

just make sure motor is at TDC /timmed

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Also try this. After grounding the dizzy body and HEI module like Mklotz says. Run individual wires to where the - side of the battery bolts to the block or starter for these grounds. Remember the coil gets grounded threw the body of the HEI module, this causes the spark.

 

Then remove the ignition + wire and the start wire from the coil. Run a temporary wire from the battery + to the + side of the coil. Check your spark. It should be nice and hot now. IF not try swapping the Red and Green wires running from the dizzy to the HEI. If the grounds are solid and your still not getting good spark the HEI could be a dud or the coil may have over heated dude to the higher current the HEI can put into it. I have heard people have good luck with the Ford coils from 86+ v8 cars. The ones with those thin film ignition modules under the dizzy. Very strong spark and no need for the resistor.

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I got hot spark off the blaster 2 right away...

 

The first mistake I find... I set my plug wires up L16 way... fixed that. 2. then I realized i put the dizzy plate on upside down so I couldn't get enough adjustment to get the rotor lined up at wire1 at TDC... fixed that.

 

Just got it to turn over and pop, but the battery was low from cranking so i put the charger on it and came home for lunch. Will add a Dizzy ground after lunch... ran the bolts forthe HEI mount in with Dielectric grease.

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  • 3 months later...

the 521 in 72 will have a 2wire in 1 lug at the + side coil.

1 is the Hot start

1 exits the ballast resisitor.

 

 

YOu either bypass the ballast resisitor,You can hook up the blk/wht wire to the wire that was exiting the ballast resisitor and goes to the +side coil(if long enough). You will need a EI Coil. Not the stock 521 coil. it will burn up.

 

Or you can run the stock coil ballast set up you have.

just hook B of the matchbox in the input side of the ballast resistor where the blk/ wht wire hooks in to it. So it will be B and the blk/ wht wire(this will be the ON power wire)

C will go - side coil.

Parts store has piggyback blade type connectors so you dont need to cut your lugs off.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Do you have a dual points distributor or a single? The pertronix fits the single.

 

If you can't do the pertronix and you know your not going to run super high rpm(north of 7K) you could do the GM HEI setup.

 

This PDF can show you how to make it work. The HEI modules are about $30 off of 75 camero or something. And the extra parts should not set you back more than a few bucks.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/11/1/2168673/HEI%20Conversion%203.pdf

 

-Avery

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Maybe I missed it in the thread, but whats the best way to tell if the pertronix kit will work with my disti? Since I cant score a matchbox I guess I can give it a go.

 

on the shaft just below the rotor there may be a bump or collar. if present; will not allow the pertronix spinny part to slide down to the proper position. photo of the one i have with collar. this dizzy is a D4A4-10

48600ade5dae5c8dfcec7ea1c14cd4db.jpg

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Is this a L20 single point?

You have to machine that Ring abouve the point lobe.

 

Pertronix will fit the L20 single point Most of the time. I had 1 not fit.

I got a guy at work that machine the ring off and then I intsall the Pertronix.

I diassasemble the whole plate and remove the rotor of the weight tensioner thing ,pull rorot off and pull the little cap and remove the phillips screw and PULL.

 

If you good with point just use them untill a Pertronix come for sale all done with the pedastal and timming plate.

Or get a Matchbox. They turn up time to time.

I got a Pertronix(L20dizzy Big Cap) at home readsy to go But i dont ship.

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You COULD mess around with all this, or just buy:

 

 

Cardone Remanufactured - Distributor (L20b)

 

Part # 31-620

 

 

AND

 

 

MSD Ignition Street Fire - Ignition System

 

Part # 5520

 

 

AND

 

 

MSD Ignition Blaster - Ignition Coil

 

Part # 8207

Line: MSD

and have it be ALL brand new...

Just my .02$

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You don't need the

MSD Ignition Street Fire - Ignition System
Its more or less the same as a GM HEI or Nissan matchbox ignition module.

The stock matchbox L20b dizzy should fire a blaster2 coil just fine.

The Blaster 1 coil is for points so it is not an upgrade as it would still require the ballest resistor.

 

-Avery

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yea you COULD use matchbox. i personally run an hei which is more than enough for stock useage if you want to fool around with building an enclosure to keep it cool and the elements out.....

 

or a streetfire box (whis is just a 6al2 with features removed) that has a rev limiter built in. also no custom fabing or wiring (dist + and -, batt + and -, and key switched). also the streetfire uses a dial for rev limit so no chips to swap. not to mention warrenty.

 

if your time isnt worth anythign then yea spend days scouring the junkyard for all this used stuff and custom fabbing for sub-par performance and less features...

 

*bangs head against wall*

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  • 6 months later...

yall fellers think one of these would work to replace a bad matchbox? i'd use the matching coil an shit too.. its some late 80's early 90's nissan shit.. its called a power transistor aka ignitor chip..

 

192750_PowerTransistor93AltimaFig17_1.jp

 

180-0268_1.jpg

 

 

I did lots and lots of research to figure those out. I came to the conclusion, I have no idea.

 

And here is why, 1 of the wires goes directly to the ECU, and from there on I have no idea what the ECU is doing with that, or what the box is looking for on the wire.

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  • 6 months later...

Yeah I need this spelled out for me. I have a 77 l20b if I go and buy a new A1_Cardone electronic type remanufactured distributor from Rockauto and I already have an msd blast will that be everything I need for a high energy output electronic ignition. I'm also running E3 plugs is there a better option since you can't gap them. Also what does MSD Ignition Street Fire - Ignition System do for me do i need it?

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When you say MSD blaster do you mean just the balster coil or do you have an MSD igintion box too?

 

 

There are two types of distributors.

Depending on what you get you will still need an igintion module Datsun or GM.

Match box --> this has a big black lump on the distributor which is the ignition module if your new one does not come with one you will need it or a GM HEI module.

El Dizzy --> This had the large ignition module under the dash. You will need that module or a GM HEI module.

 

Basicly you need these basic parts.

 

A electronic datsun distributor.  (el dizzy or match box some after market work too).

An ignition module. (datsun or GM work with above dizzys)

A coil (must be electroni ignition capable or 12V not 6v points style coil)

Plugs and wires. (NGK recommended for both)

 

If your doing a daily driver/street rod I would use the OEM style NGK copper plugs or NGK R plugs (same as copper but have split electrod) go colder if running high comp.

for raceing I would use the champion racing plugs that the Z car guys use. I think the part number is C56 or something like that.

If your street rod is running really high compression or you are running higher than stock and can't get good gas 93+ octain then run the champion race plugs.  They lower compression a little because they don't protrude into the combustion chamber.

 

 

 

I will update with part number for plugs.

-Avery

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lynchfourtwenty

That will not work as a replacment for the match box.  The match box needs an AC signal to work.  What you have is the 240SX ignition module it needs a DC signal to work.

 

You could use the points distributor with it possibly, but you would need to make a circuite to drive it.

The pertronics may also work but then whats the point.

 

The Match box is very similar to the GM HEI module.

see this page --> http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

The Toyota module is also very similar but can only be used with an ECU.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vast.htm

 

Match box dizzy produces the VR signal with is a AC sine wave. It uses that to time the firing of the coil.

 

What you have is more like this module.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/Bosch_124.htm

It may control dwell though depending on what it came out of. Most of the Nissan ECU's control dwell on their own though.

 

 

-Avery

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When you say MSD blaster do you mean just the balster coil or do you have an MSD igintion box too?

 

 

There are two types of distributors.

Depending on what you get you will still need an igintion module Datsun or GM.

Match box --> this has a big black lump on the distributor which is the ignition module if your new one does not come with one you will need it or a GM HEI module.

El Dizzy --> This had the large ignition module under the dash. You will need that module or a GM HEI module.

 

Basicly you need these basic parts.

 

A electronic datsun distributor. (el dizzy or match box some after market work too).

An ignition module. (datsun or GM work with above dizzys)

A coil (must be electroni ignition capable or 12V not 6v points style coil)

Plugs and wires. (NGK recommended for both)

 

If your doing a daily driver/street rod I would use the OEM style NGK copper plugs or NGK R plugs (same as copper but have split electrod) go colder if running high comp.

for raceing I would use the champion racing plugs that the Z car guys use. I think the part number is C56 or something like that.

If your street rod is running really high compression or you are running higher than stock and can't get good gas 93+ octain then run the champion race plugs. They lower compression a little because they don't protrude into the combustion chamber.

 

 

 

I will update with part number for plugs.

-Avery

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