Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)

[620stadiumtruck]

I only have a msd blast 2 coil

[dimedriver]

Yes, the MSD blaster 2 coil part number 8202 will work with the a "match box" distributor with the stock datsun "Match Box" ignition module.

blast 2 coil product page ---> http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5003

The page states "Improved output coil for electronic ignitions, Blaster Ignition or MSD 5, 6, and 7 Series (ballast resistor required for points)".

 

 

-Avery

[Ryan Family 510]

great info, thanks!!

[Ryan Family 510]

OK, I'm Going crazy. Our 69 510 came without a coil and distributor, we are installing an L20b which also came without a distributor. I picked up a D4F4-04 6802 22100 N6102. Looks like it is from a 76 610. From researching I am assuming I need an external ignitor as in an HEI ignition module, can someone just confirm that? I'd appreciate it.

[datzenmike]

22100-N6102 is '74 and up California 4 speed. Yes they were the remote igniter EI dizzy. Hopefully you can also get the matching coil. If not any '76 and up California vehicle will have one. If it says 'Use With External Resistor' that the wrong one.

 

[Ryan Family 510]

Datzenmike,

 

Thank you for confirming for me, appreciate it.  

[rharm78]

I have a 78' 620 that was converted back to points, but I'd like to put it back to the stock system, the only problem is that there is 4 disconnected wires next to the coil. Can somebody tell me how to hook them up to the original style dist.? I will be acquiring it very soon. Also can I use the coil I have in the truck now? I believe its a standard 77 coil. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

[datO)))]

When I upgraded my 510 to electronic ignition, I spent some time reading up on all of the available options. This seems to be a fairly common question for new members on the forum. I made some notes, and thought they might be helpful for others. I know this information is available some other places, but I just tried to put it all together in one place for my own reference. PLEASE add corrections if you see bad information. I also made up some simple wiring diagrams.

 

I looked at 3 main options for electronic ignition setups, "Matchbox", Pertronix, and Remote module distributor with GM HEI.

 

 

Matchbox

 

This setup is considered by many to be the most desirable EI system for the Datsun L4 motors. The matchbox ignition was stock equipment on several models from 1979 to 1982. The term "matchbox" refers to the small rectangular ignition module attached to the side of the distributor body that is about the size of a small matchbox. Advantages of this system are that it is simple, compact, and once installed it's reported to be very reliable. One disadvantage is that new units are no longer available for sale. They are also becoming harder to find. If you want to use a matchbox ignition, you will have to find a distributor that has been salvaged.

 

 

Wiring the matchbox:

 

Wiring for the matchbox distributor consists of two wires from the coil to the ignition module on the distributor, and a key switched 12V power source to the positive side of the coil. The wires from the coil to the distributor must be connected as shown, and not reversed. Also, the coil should receive 12 volts while the starter is being cranked, and when the key is in the "on" position. For some vehicles this will require that two separate wires come from the ignition switch (as shown in the wiring diagram). This is because vehicles that originally had a ballast resistor have a separate circuit to provide 12 volts directly to the coil during engine starting.

 

 

 

Pertronix

 

Another popular option is the "Ignitor" electronic ignition system from Pertronix. This is an aftermarket drop in replacement for the stock points ignition. The installation is simple, and will work with your stock coil and ballast resistor. If you prefer though, you can replace the stock coil and resistor with a higher resistance after market coil. With a higher resistance 3 ohm coil, the ballast resistor is not needed. The wiring diagrams below show how to wire the Pertronix with the stock coil and resistor, or with the 3 ohm coil only.

 

The kit is only compatible with certain distributors though. Dual points distributors will not work because the screw holes in the magnetic pickup assembly will not properly line up with the holes in the distributor. Also, some L20b distributors must be modified in order accept the magnetic trigger ring that comes with the pertronix kit. The illustration below shows the basic wiring for the Pertronix.

 

 

Wiring the Pertronix:

 

There are two ways to wire the pertronix, with a ballast resistor (using the stock coil), or without (using a 3 ohm coil). Use one of the two wiring diagrams below depending on your application. As with the matchbox setup, you should ensure that the coil gets 12V when the key is in the "start" position and also when it is in the "On" position. This means that for cars that originally had a ballast resistor, you will need to connect two separate wires coming from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. You can use a test light to verify this.

 

 

 

 

Remote Module Distributor with GM HEI

 

A third option is the earlier stock EI system that was installed on several vehicles equipped with L20b engines between 1975 and 1978. Instead of a small ignition module on the side of the distributor like the matchbox, this type had a larger box mounted remotely from the distributor. Although the stock ignition modules are bulky and expensive to replace, inexpensive and readily available GM style HEI ignition modules can easily be used in their place.

 

 

Wiring the HEI Module

 

The HEI Module goes between the distributor and the ignition coil. It acts as an electronic switch that is signaled by the pickup sensor in the distributor. Simply connect the two pickup wires coming from the distributor to one side of the ignition module as shown in the diagram. Then connect the positive and negative wires to the other side as shown. As with the matchbox and Pertronix setups, you should ensure that the coil gets 12V when the key is in the "start" position and also when it is in the "On" position. This means that for cars that originally had a ballast resistor, you will need to connect two separate wires coming from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. You can use a test light to verify this.

 

 

The HEI module needs to be grounded. this is usually done by connecting the module to a metal surface in the engine bay. In addition to grounding the module, this connection can also help keep the unit cool. The back side of the module is metal. If possible, the module should be attached so that the metal on the back side is against another flat metal surface. Some people mount the module on a heavy gauge piece of aluminum to act as a heat sync. Some modules come with special grease designed to conduct heat. The grease should be applied to the back of the module to further improve heat transfer to the mounting surface. Do not use dielectric grease for this purpose. Some types can reduce heat transfer instead of improve it.

 

What would the module look like for the third hei option and part number? I work at an Autoparts store and could do some digging to help find alternative methods to hei set ups?

[ggzilla]

HEI is a Chevrolet part. The parts store will know what the part number is.

[datO)))]

I was not clear in my reply. Sorry. The question is, for the third option, what internals of the distributer could I possably get via parts store?

It is clear that the therd option states in the diagram, that the dizzy is an electronic , not a points style. Or am I mistaken

[ggzilla]

It is explained in the first post in this topic. There are two common EI distributors in USA, the matchbox type and the remote type.

 

If you are asking about the "Remote Module Distributor", you can look in the parts catalog at the store. Look up the make & model e.g. 1978 Nissan 620 Pickup.

 

Generally, nothing inside this distributor wears out, so doesn't need replacing.

[datO)))]

Ok thanx man. I'm gonna get to it. Can't stand the points any longer. The power surges and sticky

Contacts. I just want a smooth idle.

[REBELRIDER]

How do I access these pictures for the GM HEI conversion module . Either I'm doing something wrong or photobucket is useless, but of course I'm not a pc literate person either. thanks

[Crashtd420]

photobucket is useless,

Yup....

There are fixes online for computers ... I think there is a link about it on the ma8n general page

[dimedriver]

What pics do you need? I can see if I can find them or make new ones. I am replacing the ignition on my welder with an HEI based ignition right now. So i could take some pics of the wiring on that too.

[mklotz70]

If you use the newest version of the Chrome browser, the pics should show up fine....at least the photobucket ones that still exist.  A lot of pics disappear over the years because guys let their accounts lapse, or they had a free one and had to delete some to make room for others.  Yep...photobucket hosed tons of forums out there.  I've archived all my pics and they won't get another dime.....sooner or later, about 6000+ pics will disappear from this forum when my account dies. :(

[datzenmike]

There are two EI distributors. The remote igniter, which is just the earlier 'matchbox' before it was miniaturized and the well known Matchbox. Below is the wiring for the HEI conversion for a remote igniter style although if you have a matchbox that has a bad module this will work on it also. Just remove the matchbox module and connect up the green and red wires.

 

The coil below is marked 1.6 ohms but an EI coil of 0.8-1.0 ohms should work better.


If it fails to fire reverse the green and red wires.

 
 
 
 
 
.

[Dolomite]

 

I always run a separate ground from a mounting bolt, some have the tab on the left bolt, some on the right. I know it’s redundant, but it’s there for a reason so I use it. Been running it like that 12 odd years in three different vehicles.

[mklotz70]

Absolutely run a dedicated ground.....especially if the electronics are on the dizzy.....ie, matchbox dizzy....... I've personally dealt with at least 4 different rigs with ignition issues that a dedicated ground fixed the problem.  If the electronics are on the dizzy, you want the ground to go from the dizzy body to either the body or battery.  

[datzenmike]

Yes, keep in mind that current flow is the same in any part of a circuit. This means that what ever passes through the coil, about 14 amps for a 14v charging system through a 1 ohm coil. So don't scrimp on the wire size and keep the runs as short as possible.

[REBELRIDER]

Sorry guys, I did find this on an earlier post here . just took me a while to surf it . I did do the GM HEI. works great. thanks!

[Alexp521]

So I’m have a issue I’m not getting spark on the 521 I’ve replace switch ,coil pack ,cap and rotor and still no spark only thing I have not replace is the Pertronix but don’t know if it has any thing with no spark at coil 

[Crashtd420]

11 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

So I’m have a issue I’m not getting spark on the 521 I’ve replace switch ,coil pack ,cap and rotor and still no spark only thing I have not replace is the Pertronix but don’t know if it has any thing with no spark at coil 

Well if the last thing is the pertronix my guess Is that could be your issue....

 

You should be able to remove the negative lead from the coil, which would be the trigger from the pertronix, then use a piece of wire from ground to the terminal on the coil to trigger the coil.... dont hold it just touch and release.... 

 

Make sure you have power on and put the spark plug in the wire going to the center of the distributor cap, make sure spark plug is touching ground too..... no need to crank engine just trying to verify spark... if you get a spark I'd say the pertronix has failed..... 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Exactly the above.

 

The Pertronix will only reliably work with a stock points coil. So if you have replaced your coil with something else this may have been the problem causing it to fail.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have never had one go bad.

 

YOu make sure you have voltage going to the coil with the key to ON?  if not then check the fuse and before the ballst resisitor. If before the ballst then its fuse or going to the key switch. if after the ballast then the ballast could be open. Ohm it out.

 

Now you have a Pertronix in there awhile and was running . I assume you have the stock coil(say about 1.6 ohms or close to it) in there with the ballast resisitor. Puttting a low ohm coil (say .7 ohm) may cause the coil to get too much current and pop the pertronix. Its in the instructions