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Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)


72wagun

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4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Well if the last thing is the pertronix my guess Is that could be your issue....

 

You should be able to remove the negative lead from the coil, which would be the trigger from the pertronix, then use a piece of wire from ground to the terminal on the coil to trigger the coil.... dont hold it just touch and release.... 

 

Make sure you have power on and put the spark plug in the wire going to the center of the distributor cap, make sure spark plug is touching ground too..... no need to crank engine just trying to verify spark... if you get a spark I'd say the pertronix has failed..... 

 

 

 Okay I have have spark when I took off every thing from - side of coil and put the probe to it I’m get spark so do I  look for a nother Pertronix or is the something better 

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4 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

 Okay I have have spark when I took off every thing from - side of coil and put the probe to it I’m get spark so do I  look for a nother Pertronix or is the something better 

Depends on your wallet.... a new pertronix unit would be the quickest, easiest and possibly the cheapest....

 

A matchbox distributor would be the next best thing...

 

Do you still have a ballist resistor?

And are you still using a points coil?

Both need to be used with the pertronix... 

Pertronix only eliminates the points adjustment....

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6 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

Yes points coil and ballist both are new  and dnt know but the cap and rotor are from a 1980 720  because  the oem didn’t fit at some point the changed diss I think

I assume you have a biiger Cap distributor from a LaterL20b point distributor

 

photos help.

 

so how long was this running with the pertronix before it went bad?  was goof then later you changed the coil and the ballast.. I never seen a Ballast go bad either.

I always have a spare Pertronix anyways. The pertronix COIL is close to 3 ohms that's why it don't need a ballast

 

 

HPIM0252 (2).JPG

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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well maybe it gave up.

 buy another

 

I also chak to make sure the magnet ring it good. Sometimes the tape wears off and whan one takes the magnet ring off the magnets are stuck on the dist shaft and one onlky has the ring but the small magnets got left behind. That's why I never remove the ring once installed I just wipe them down.

 

75 bucks is about the average price out there for the Pertronix.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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OK, just try this as a test, put everything back together as it was before you had any issue, now put a jumper wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive side of the coil(hot wire it), then get in and see if the engine starts.

Just remember you will have to remove that jumper wire to shut the engine off, does the engine start?

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You probably have it wired incorrectly. Or you have a wire shorted to ground on the negative side of the coil.

 

#1 the body of the distributor should be grounded with a wire.

 

#2 The pertronix should be the only thing on the negative side of the coil.  Basically the pertronix is a switch that disconnects the coil from ground to cause a spark. The tach is typically also hooked up here. Disconnect it from the coil. it's wire can rub on the firewall and short to ground. This happened to me once.

 

#3 if you are using a ballest resistor check the voltage at the positive side of the coil while starting it should be battery voltage. While in run/on it should be less. This test is done with the red lead of your volt meter on the positive coil terminal and the black lead on the batter negative terminal.

 

You can also test your coil by connecting it's positive terminal to the battery positive terminal. Take a wire from the negative terminal of the coil and brush it across the negative terminal on the battery very quickly.

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I think its a key ignition issue.

 

key on should get 12volts a the plus side of the ballst resisitor..maybe 6 volts at the coil after running tru the ballast

or if you removed the ballast resisitor and go the 3ohm Pertronix coil then at the coil should have 12 volts.

 

how about trying this

remove the start wire to the starter selinoid.

now put key in start and see if you get 12volts right at the +side COIL.  then go to ON on the switcvh and see if you get voltage then.

 

 

same test is done by !!!!!!!!!!

 

put starter wire back on and does it RUN WHILE YOU HAVE THE STARTER CRANKED  or wants to started when the key is catching part of the ON switch setting

 

to me a dirty key switch. try a reaseat or clean the ignitions fuses in fuse box or replace them

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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  • 2 months later...

You can download the wiring diagram here...

http://www.bluehandsinc.com/521-wiring-schematics.html

 

 

521wiring.jpg

 

 

You're wiring is definitely wrong.  There should be one wire coming from the ignition of the fuse box.....that is on when running, but not when cranking....going to the resistor. It will be on one side of the resistor by itself.   There should be another wire coming straight from the ignition switch that has power when cranking, but not when running(on position on switch) to the other side of the resistor.   That connector should also have a wire connected to it that goes to the + of the coil.  The - side of the coil should be connected to the points or trigger on the dizzy.

So....what is happening is that when cranking, the power from the ignition switch bypasses the resistor because it's connected electrically to the + of the coil. This allows a full 12v to the coil since the starter is going to drop the voltage while it's turning.  When the ign switch is released from cranking and goes to the run position, the 12v comes from the fuse block to the resistor, which drops the voltage before it goes to the coil.  Points coils are basically 6v coils and will overheat and burn out with 12v constantly going through them.  They can get really hot and even "bloat" if constantly receiving a full 12v.  Electronic ignition coils are made differently.  They're typically a bit bigger physically since they have more coils in them to create a higher spark voltage.  They also have the resistance built into them so there's no external resistor to deal with.

Edited by mklotz70
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Okay BW is on top of resistance now 

and Br is on the bottom going to the positive of coil  and from ther it goes to the pertronix only thing on neg side is the black wire from the pertronix  and can some one tell me how to put the pictures I can get the url but it doesn’t come out like the picture on top

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27 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

Okay BW is on top of resistance now 

and Br is on the bottom going to the positive of coil  and from ther it goes to the pertronix only thing on neg side is the black wire from the pertronix  and can some one tell me how to put the pictures I can get the url but it doesn’t come out like the picture on top

That sounds better on the wiring....

 

For the picture you either need to use a photo hosting sight like postimage, which is what I use, or when you open the reply window at the bottom should be an option to click and choose a file.... its supposed to be easy but haven't tried....

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