Just Another Wagon Thread

[DRIVEN]

Got some projects taken care of yesterday and this morning. Started with some brakes:

I stole an idea from a Volvo forum...stacked sway bars. I came up with a total of 3 stock sway bars. One was on the car, one from a B210 I parted out years ago, and one from Redbanner. The 510 and B210 bars are almost identical. Maybe they are actually the same part but I found the 510 bar was just slightly wider -- maybe 1/4". It goes something like this. Started with this pile of parts:

Painted the sway bars. I had to make one of the U shaped brackets too, (2) 1/8" rectangle shaped plates. (4) 2.5" bolts, (4) 1.25" tube sleeves, stock end links + 2 extra bushings to go between the bar ends.

The next few pics are pretty self explanatory:

After I got it on the ground and drove it around the driveway a bit I discovered that the lower bar would contact the TC rod on hard bumps. I ground the offending area a little (probably 1/8") and all is well. If my car wasn't lowered it may not have been an issue.

I also experimented with my stash of random sway bars to see what I could make work of the back. Guess what? A stock 510 front bar fits pretty well.

The center mounts were just 2 1/2" exhaust clamps and some 1/4" plate.

The end link mounts were some 2" angle iron with a gusset welded on the back side. (The rearend is at full droop in the photo. At ride height it is pretty much level.)

There is no less than 1/4" clearance at any point. My car has 2" lowering blocks on the rear. I don't know if this would work with a 1" block and I doubt it would have room at all with stock rear suspension. I haven't had a chance to punish it through any good twisties yet but just driving around town it feels dramatically better. In theory this should be a pretty good balance. The same amount of torsional resistance was added to each end of the car. I'll update once I give it some serious drive time.

Last part of the upgrades were some borrowed AutoBahns from my brother's lonnnnnnnng term 240z project. I had to buy my own 195/50-15 Falkens since his tires were too big.

[DRIVEN]

Drove it around some today. There is a noticeably stiffer ride from the new tires. It rails pretty good now and seems to be pretty grippy. Won't oversteer unless I throttle hard mid-corner. This is gonna be fun :) .

[DISLEXICDIME]

i need those wheels lol

[jrock4224]

Are u clucking fidding me ..... Those rims, there just so ....... Beautiful.. It's like a storm trooper and a ewok had a baby..... Those are sick, 0 offset?

[DRIVEN]

15X7 +10

...and thanks. I wish they were mine but they're just loaners.

[Rustina 510]

Very nice wagon dude.

[ninjabortion]

as always you never fail to impress, great work. now to try and find out if 710 sway bars are the same as 510 ones so i can double stack some on my wagon...

[DRIVEN]

Thanks guys. No clue about the 710s. If you crawl under yours you should be able to tell easily enough.

[jrock4224]

15X7 +10

...and thanks. I wish they were mine but they're just loaners.

 

omg i am so stealing those.....i just googled your ip address...those are dope...do u think in your infinite spare time u could do me a solid and shoot a pic straight down the side so i can see the poke...from the frnt preferably but the rear would suffice... shit both i would mail u a six pack for the extra effort...

 

 

pss that double swaty bar ....good idea, even crazier seeing it on the car.... nice find on the rear too...

[DRIVEN]

Save the stamp. I'll collect a Jack & Coke one of these days.

I'm still running 510 struts. With ZXs it would be sucked in a little and more even with the rears. Surprised they don't rub on corners but that might be thanks to the sways more than anything.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Nexen makes some 195 45 series tires. Yes the 280xz should pull it in about perfect.

 

Those Autobahns makes this look good.

 

A 510 I had long time ago had 2 stock 510 sway bars

[jrock4224]

fuck me running i so want those wheels ...... so so so want those...pics are perfect.... shit i will just buy a fifth of jack ....those pics are perfect...

 

but what dfo u mean by sucked in even more withthe rears....u mean sucked in more even like the rears...i will dry hump your dog for those wheels.....if they were your wheels...

[Laecaon]

Wagons seem to have the rear wheels sucked in more than the fronts. I have ZX struts and the rear is still more sucked in. I would have some good poke with 510 struts.

[DRIVEN]

Dylan's been rocking that silver set on his red 4 door for years so maybe he's ready for a change . You could try molesting his dog since they're a little closer to you.

[jrock4224]

laecon....yeah like track width narrower in the rear.... gm makes all there trucks that way for handling purpose i was wondering if it meant something else ... with 280 zx strut it will be well inside the lip....

[jrock4224]

Dylan's been rocking that silver set on his red 4 door for years so maybe he's ready for a change . You could try molesting his dog since they're a little closer to you.

 

 

already sent a pm requesting hois dogs gender and availabilty

[DRIVEN]

One month update:

 

Not really much to report really. A Cobalt came in to the shop last month with a wasted engine. I swiped the CAI before it went to the scrap yard. Had to cut and splice it for my application. I think it would now qualify as a "slightly cooler air induction" system now. Cone filter directly on the throttle body before:

After:

Damn, that's an ugly engine bay! I seem to remember someone saying it would be painted and detailed by now. Guess I'm just another broke-ass with more plans than cash.

I've also had a new gremlin develop. Over the last couple months, the car will randomly die with no warning. It's only happened 6 or 7 times and will immediately restart. Acts just like someone just turned the key off. It sets no DTCs. The only common denominator is that it was at full operating temp each time and usually during or following extended idling (like a drive-thru or heavy traffic) when under temperatures are highest. I replaced my main power relay a few days ago and haven't had any glitches since. If that doesn't solve the problem I'll have to a dig in deeper.

[MicroMachinery]

Could it be vapor lock?

[DRIVEN]

No. Definitely not fuel supply related. It shuts everything down electrically. That's why I suspected the main relay first. It's currently located by the factory fuse box under the hood above the exhaust. Under-hood temp seems to be a factor. The way it's wired is as follows:

Batt->Factory fuse box->Ign switch->Main relay->Aux fuse panel (feeds power to 3 ECM pins, fuel pump relay).

When it stalls, I can go directly to the start position it and it cranks but won't start. But if I turn the key to the off position and back to start it ALWAYS fires right up. Acts like a relay with poor contacts to me. A fuse would not reset itself. A "wiggle test" on the harness revealed no issues. Ignition control modules usually need to cool down for a while when they're dying. I really haven't driven it a whole lot since I swapped in a different relay so it remains to be seen if it's cured. I have a box with a spare ICM/coil packs, cam sensor, crank sensor, ECM, various relays, etc. Maybe I should throw it in the back seat.

[DRIVEN]

5 month update:  Still running.

[blueridgespeed]

5 month update:  Still running.

This counts for...a lot!  Nice work

[spitznoz]

what size are those autobahns also offset ?

[DRIVEN]

15X7 +10

 

[DRIVEN]

Oh, I completely forgot to update about the stalling gremlin.  Seems that it was a ground inside the harness.  I opened it up and tied all the grounds together as a redundancy.  Been fine for about 6 weeks now.  Hopefully it's solved.

[I'm BLUE]

I really like this Driven.

 

Ahhhhh ... glad you got it fixed with no further symptoms. I was curious what your issue was.