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620 vg conversion


yello620

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ABsolutely correct. My mentioning of the ZX manifold was made without remembering that my VG is turbo and has the crosspipe behing the heads and takes up the same space as the intake. As this one is NA, its not necessary to consider that spacing or the higher effeciency for flow. I have seen places that will mill down the pathy flange with an angle to lower the height. Dont forget with pathy mani you need the pathy style distributor and driver bank valve cover, or just dent it in yourself.

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  • 5 months later...

Update time. :D Even though this is not really much of an update. Was getting my ass kicked by the transmission wiring harness, all of the wires had been cut short at the trans ECU and at the connection to the main harness. So when i saw another Infiniti M30 at the JY, i gutted it for the wiring harness. Took me about 2 hours to gut this car, had to pull the entire dashboard, then the harness ran thru the left footwell into the left fender area, across the core support and then to the battery/relay box in the right front corner of the car. So now i have this huge harness that i need to sort out, but should not have cut wires to deal with now. This motavated the project a little.

This past few days i swapped the frame of the VG truck to a 79 disk brake frame, then reinstalled the 75 cab and then the VG motor. In doing this i also now have all the brake plumbing and power booster/master cylinder in the truck to continue test fitting everything. Brake booster is quite close to the valve cover too. Acceptable distance, but closer than i thought it would be.

 

I also repainted(krylon gloss black) the entire engine bay while the motor was out of the truck. Sure change my motavation to see it look better.

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A lot more work done again today.:thumbsup: Most of today's work was done on the oil pan, have way to many hours in it already, but it is all welded up and is now sitting full of water for a leak check.

VGoilpan002-1.jpgVGoilpan003-1.jpg

 

And a couple of pics installed before final welding, checking clearance.

VGoilpan006-1.jpgVGoilpan005-1.jpg

 

discovered a problem with the alternator mounting also. I started installing other stuff on the front of the motor and realized that i had the alternator above the mount and it needs to go below. Well, below is major interference with the idler arm. So the other factory place for it(with different brackets) is up high on the drivers side, but that is where the air condithioner compressor mounts. Trying not to give up on the possibility of having air conditioning too.

 

 

I had this same problem with my 520 build. I almost upgraded to a 1980 720 steering gear box Idler arm & complete 720 steering linkage. This puts idler & pitman arm on the out side of the frame giving much needed clearance. I was looking at sectioning the front part of the 720 frame onto my 520 frame just in front of the motor mounts. This might be an idea for you to gain some space.

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Update time. :D Even though this is not really much of an update. Was getting my ass kicked by the transmission wiring harness, all of the wires had been cut short at the trans ECU and at the connection to the main harness. So when i saw another Infiniti M30 at the JY, i gutted it for the wiring harness. Took me about 2 hours to gut this car, had to pull the entire dashboard, then the harness ran thru the left footwell into the left fender area, across the core support and then to the battery/relay box in the right front corner of the car. So now i have this huge harness that i need to sort out, but should not have cut wires to deal with now. This motavated the project a little.

This past few days i swapped the frame of the VG truck to a 79 disk brake frame, then reinstalled the 75 cab and then the VG motor. In doing this i also now have all the brake plumbing and power booster/master cylinder in the truck to continue test fitting everything. Brake booster is quite close to the valve cover too. Acceptable distance, but closer than i thought it would be.

 

I also repainted(krylon gloss black) the entire engine bay while the motor was out of the truck. Sure change my motavation to see it look better.

 

Hi

I swapped a VG30 ( 300ZX non turbo 5 speed) also into a 720 and ran into all the same problems you are having, I used a starter out of a Pathgrinder and cut a notch in the frame for clearence.

Made my own headers to clear everything, after about 6 years of driving it I supercharged it.

And the Supercharger gave me all kinds of room at the back of the engine, so I moved it back about 3 and a half inches and I wanted to lower it also.

But as you know the steering is in the way, so I relocated , lowered my steering box and Idler arm in the frame , it was the easyest way I could figure, with out going to some strange rack, ( not that I would mind a rack it just somthing else to sort out !!! )

So now I added power steering also and built a bracket to hold the pump and switched my Alt to the other side of the engine, witch it was stock, so they are down nice and low between the frame rails.

I hope some of this helps !!!!.

there are picks of my truck on this site.

Cheers Fast 720

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  • 2 months later...

OK, another small update. Got very frustrated with this project, almost scrapped it too. Most of my frustrations were with making the auto trans work. Then i located a 5 speed from a z31. So today i installed the 5 speed. Got the motor and trans re-installed into the truck, got the previously built motor mounts all bolted up. Then crawled under the truck to see what was going to be needed to make the trans crossmember, and it looks like the stock 620 crossmember is going to work perfect. The bolt holes all look like they might even line up, if not, they are damn close. Will buy a stock 620 transmission mount tomorrow. Might need to slot a few holes to make everything line up. So that was good progress.

 

Put most of the front sheetmetal back on the truck today also, just made it look like a truck again--helps the motivation.

 

Took a picture of where the 5 speed shifter comes out also, damn close to the stock spot.

 

So now i am back to wiring and building a alternator mount. The alternator mount i thought was going to work, spaced the alternator about 10mm further forward causing belt alignment problems. So i will build a custom mount that moves it back.

 

Shifter location

yello620012.jpg

 

Crossmember Lineup

yello620013.jpg

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2eDeYe' date='03 November 2010 - 07:15 AM' timestamp='1288797331' post='374967']

Was the auto to fat?

 

No, the auto fit in there quite nice, exhaust was going to be very snug, but very doable. I was just losing motivation for the VG project due to the extra stuff that the auto involved. Wiring, shifter, cooler lines. Right now i am taking the easy way out for the trans situation.

 

Basically, i want to drive a VG powered 620 to see if this is even worth the work. I can always start working with the auto again later.

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Ordered a stock 620 trans mount to see how this thing lines up, and it fits absolutely perfect. Just bolted it right in. Scares me to think that it fit that nice on the trans when i built the motor mounts almost a year ago and did not even have this trans yet to test the crossmember fit, had simply planned on making a custom crossmember.

 

Need to get all the accessory drives figured out now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

How much room do you have on the driver' side between the exhaust manifold and the steering shaft? If you were to do a NA2T could you fit a turbo and plumbing in there?

Plenty of room for the steering shaft, it has not been a problem at all. But any form of turbo in this engine bay is going to be a crazy tight fit. Good luck with that idea.

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Plenty of room for the steering shaft, it has not been a problem at all. But any form of turbo in this engine bay is going to be a crazy tight fit. Good luck with that idea.

 

 

I would be inclined to fab a custom manifold that relocated the turbo up and forward (where the A/C unit goes). Either that or fab an extention that bolted to the flange of the existing manifold that relocated the turbo to a desired (and roomy) position.

 

Not to mention you have to now run a cross-over pipe, and that's either going behind the intake plenum (taking up much needed space) or again, custom fabbed exhaust manifolds. NA is so much easier... But forced induction is so much more fun!

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  • 1 month later...

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