Devil In A Blue Dress

[bonvo]

the power you need will come from the black with white stripe on the balist resister or the positive side of the coil

i even have a spare pigtail for the ignition module if you want it

Edited October 9, 2009 by bonvo

[datzenmike]

The Roadster pressure plate is what you need, pretty much any other 200mm clutch disc will do. The Nissan # is 30210 20111 for the Roadster p/p.

 

L,Z and KA flywheels come in 3 different clutch sizes that i know of. 200, 225 and 240mm. Each flywheel is drilled and tapped to fit one of these size p/ps.

 

All five bolt car cranks (L16/18) are 200mm clutch flywheels. The six bolt L20B, Z20E and S and Z22E and S motors that are in cars also use the 200mm flywheel. The Roadster p/p will fit all these cars. (oh, and also the 521 truck's L16)

Edited October 9, 2009 by datzenmike

[Logical1]

Thanks for the info on clutch compatibility. I found Parts from these places:

 

Just the real deal pressure plate from nissan:

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=30210-20111

 

Individual Parts or a decent priced kit: (kinda)

http://www.datsunparts.com/Clutch

 

Rockauto's 'rhino pac' roadster clutch kit:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1378009&parttype=1993

 

Then on fleebay I found this Roadster clutch kit for the cheapest price, However being fleebay I'm a little nervous about the authenticity of the parts...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300344686784&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

Thoughts on which way to go?

 

As for my wiring, Thanks for the diagram Bonvo. I'm curious as to the performance of strait dizzy & coil wiring at apposed to the Multiple Spark Discharge and smart rpm control , blah blah blah of the MSD box... I'm sure if there is performance benefits of the MSD box they are small, However I am inclined to use it because I do own it already and I dont think I could score much cash from selling it....

I'm finishing up spraying the engine bay and then doing the engine itself this weekend. Then on to Wiring up the lights! Oh I have several diagrams of full dime wiring, but does somebody have a actual pinout of a 510 voltage regulator? not just how it relates to a dimes wiring but the actual in & outs of the device... No biggie just curious if such a thing existed.

[Logical1]

Well I have been super slammed at work and with the project, So I haven't really had time to post but I have been taking pictures along the way!

 

Took of the valve cover for cleaning/painting and did a quick COLD valve adjustment, was in pretty damn good shape:

Painting my water pump pulley, horn compressor, MSD ignition, & starter:

Valve Cover with High-Temp Wrinkle Paint:

Fuel Rail:

Custom Fabbed Alternator Bracket:

Cleaned/painted Tranny Plate:

New Stainless Fuel lines from float bowls to jets:

Clutch kit Arrived:

Valve Cover Back on & New heater Hoses:

Stainless fan & Fabbed Spacer:

Fan & Alt installed:

[bonvo]

might i ask why you painted the head? it wont be able to dissipate heat as well now that it has been painted

[Logical1]

Float Bowl Air Filters on, Starting Fuel system install & PCV & Valve Breather Lines:

Starting to clean up new wiring:

Crappy Engine Shot:

mmmMMMmmm resurfaced flywheel:

Cleaned/Painted Clutch fork & Crossmember pieces:

New Pilot bushing:

Flywheel Back on:

Clutch back on:

Wouldn't be a good project without war wounds:

Decent Engine Shot:

 

Well Everything has been going (fairly) well as to this point. I cant thank the "how to keep your datsun/nissan alive" book enough! I plan on doing final clutch adjustments and putting my tranny back in tomorrow. As well as I am doing and feeling confidant about things.... If some in the area has some spare time I would SERIOUSLY love some wisdom to just come take a look at my clutch/tranny work before I put it all back together and double check it. I MUST have the car out of my shop by Sunday morning so I'm stressing a little with having a decent amount of wiring left to do and making sure the clutch/tranny work! I dont have alot of money but I am very willing to pay for your time and/or trade for anything I have:

I have:

Full 70' tail light setup with trim.

Headlight bezels in decent shape.

TONS of relays & stock electrical.

MISC MISC MISC...

Or just plain old cash money and my eternal gratitude!

P.M. if you might be available! Thanks and I'll be around more soon!

[Logical1]

might i ask why you painted the head? it wont be able to dissipate heat as well now that it has been painted

 

Well I'm not doing a full tear down & re-build so I was a little lazy about masking and my engine runs very very cool anyway... I plan on switching out my L18 for a L20 in the not to distant future and wont be painting that head for sure. Just curious though in my net wanderings I had come across several articles on painted engines actually dispersing heat better then clean/bare pieces... ether way I don't think its going to kill my engine. Its a DD not a track car;)

[bonvo]

it wont kill it no but everything helps :P i painted my block with the head on it to but i used part of a beer box to block the head from getting painted

[Spades]

heh....havent run across anyone except tweakers that painted cylinder heads before...

 

as far as long term damage, i doubt that there would be anything crazy with these little engines from painting the head.

 

The reason most people dont paint their heads as far as i know, is that for years hot rodders have been showing off their aluminum cylinder heads, painted heads indicated they were steel, and so most of the time it was undesirable to paint your aluminum heads, unless you are trying to build a sleeper, and you want people to think you are running stock heads.

[Logical1]

Well what can I say? I'm a first time dork who didn't know better :fu: If it turns out to be a big problem guess I'll be doing some stripping. Had to !@uck-up somewhere and what a great way to learn :blink:

[yellowdatsun]

If your car already runs cool, don't worry about it. Yes, the head does dissipate heat through the aluminum walls, but it's not part of the cooling system. Everyone paints their engine block, and the block has FAR more water in it than the head, and no one ever complains about that.

[zerow]

Great Looking Build! - She's come a long way, but I have a couple of questions:

 

 

Stainless steel fuel lines at the float bowls??

 

The fuel lines from the bowls to the carbs need to be extremely flexible, otherwise, you will run the risk of bending or seriously damaging the fuel nozzles. Since these are constant velocity carbs, this is very critical. Wouldn't want you to run extremely rich (or lean for that matter) because the stainless fuel lines are binding the nozzles. Go for the rubber lines, you'll be much better off. I use the Goodyear lines with teflon lining. Very flexible.

 

And...

 

 

Why run filters??

 

The openings at the top of the carbs are there for overflow, and normally vent to the atmosphere. These also allow for the floats not to bind because of barometric changes (rain, altitude, etc.) Even if the filters are free-flowing, they still cause the float chambers to be less responsive. Let it breathe, open them up.

 

Looking forward to more pics!

[Six_Shooter]

Painting the head will not effect the ability for the heat to be dispated in any noticible amount.

 

I would however, remove that flex fan imediatly. I know of more than a few people that have experianced problems when using flex fans like that. Usually ends up in the water pump being ripped apart, and the fan going through/into the rad and/or hood. Just this past summer a friend of mine with a very nice Chevelle, had that happen, his car was out of commision for a couple weeks while he replaces the fan, fan shroud, water pump, water pump pulley, and then had to wait another month for the hood to be fixed.

 

Go back to a clutch fan, or better yet an electric fan, and you won't have to worry about any damage caused by flex fans.

[Logical1]

So I got some help from a couple good friends and went to put my tranny back in tonight... read, re-read and double checked my books. Got everything prepped and ready... lifted her up and started trying to mate the transmission back on. PROBLEM: the transmission hit the top of the tranny tunnel and wont get high enough for the input shaft to make it into the clutch/pilot hole! We tried for 4 hours maneuvering it every which way and even loosening the engine mounts to try and tilt the engine back and slide the tranny in. STILL NO LUCK!:confused::mad::( I didn't remove my exhaust for the tranny removal so it is still bolted to the engine and stopping it from tilting back very far so I guess removing it is the next step.... However the bolts from my collector to the pipe proper are MORE than rusted & seized so I'm not looking forward to that! I'm not sure what shifted to make such a big difference but this is really a bad scene as I have no choice but to remove my car by Sunday afternoon from the shop at work. If anyone has any idea or suggestion please let me know and once again I am putting out a desperate call for help if someone local has any time this weekend. I'm working as hard as I can and learning everything possible, help a brotha out!

[78kingcab]

i had this prob once.....it was the factory carb linkage, i didnt remove it ant it wasnt letting the engune tilt back.... it didnt look like yours was hooked up in pic but check ....i felt retarded but it went right in.....good luck....and that was like 18 years ago...

[JDM510]

good build everything looks good for a first timer

 

 

yeah your going to need to diconnect the exaust and any carb linkage that might hold the motor from leaning back... once you get the motor tilted back if you got the clutch disk lined up right "it should slide right in" ....... thats what she said :fu:

[fo0manchu]

that fan reminds me of edward scissorhands.

[Logical1]

I'm finally back with some updates! After all my Transmission re-installation trouble it turned out to be my exhaust was allowing the engine to tilt back far enough. Freed that up and BLAM Tranny slipped right in. I then had 16 hours to finish my wiring and get it out of the shop so I don't have a lot of pictures but here are some after she was all done and prurd'ed up!

Having her back on the road with new clutch and a flawless electrical system was great!

[Logical1]

I then wanted to start on the interior of the dime. So I pulled out my seats, Scrubbed the shit out of the floor and THOROUGHLY coated it in a nice sound blocking and water sealing boat paint I had from a previous project. It worked Wonders!

I have also been eager to work on my front suspension bushings, I picked up a set of lower control arms and cleaned them up to put a new set of energy bushings in:

I first had to get out my old bushing and I wanted to try and push them out rather then burn to keep the steel temper and avoid billows of black smoke :P

These fucker are in there! my first attempt I tried a big C clamp, didn't work out to well:

I them moved on the vice a Schedule 40 Pipe coupler, a couple pipe pieces to push through and misc size cheater bars. The Weapons:

[Logical1]

Put in the vice like so:

After you turn the vice as much a beefcake possible, you cheat:

Bushing sleeve out! and with some various pulling and ripped all the old nasty rubber came out:

I then Spray'd a little oil in and wire brushed them out and onto pushing the new bushing in.... Chuckle!

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:

Obviously No matter what size press I have those bushings are NOT going in! I consulted With Frank and Hainz that the inner ring of the LCA is not a sleeves that comes out so looks like I can bore out the LCA's or try to reduce my bushings... I dont think removing metal from the LCA's is a good idea so I'm pondering ways to reduce the poly bushings... Idea's?

[Logical1]

Well I drove down to the Ratsun BBQ in Vancouver Wa. and when I get there my reverse Synchro is dead! After just replacing my clutch (and being dead broke) I am not happy to say the least! When I get back to Everett (Very happy it made it the whole way back) My first syncho is gone too So I pick up a good shape dogleg from Frank and clean it up:

I'm prepped to put it in Monday but I noticed the bell on it is a 63A #3 and my current is a 63A #1 Frank said it will still bolt right up but I am just curious as to the difference... Did some searching for it but couldn't find much as to the different housing numbers... Both rear housings are 63A #2 No big deal just curious. OH and any suggestions on a color for the tranny? I know it wont be seen much but I want to paint it now that its clean and out... I have a BLUE/BLACK/GREY With SILVER (not chrome) & RED trim theme going, kinda... Cheers!

[philcas1987]

Take a hacksaw to the outer shell inside the lca. Have you considered flush mounted amber led's on the bottom corner of the front bumpers.

[bonvo]

i would guess the difference is for the different lower holes on an l series there are brakets that hang down from the block there are different ones as i found out when installing a dog leg in he 610 some of the holes dont line up but the ones on the block and most of the ones in the lower mounts line up so its good to go ill see if i have anypics of what im talking about

 

edit found it

 

as you can see the lower part is differet but most line up i think thats what it reffers to

[5dimer]

Whats up!!!!!! I just did the trans in mine also. The car looks hella good nice job!!!!!!

[Logical1]

i would guess the difference is for the different lower holes on an l series there are brakets that hang down from the block there are different ones as i found out when installing a dog leg in he 610 some of the holes dont line up but the ones on the block and most of the ones in the lower mounts line up so its good to go ill see if i have anypics of what im talking about

 

"Removed duplicate Image"

 

as you can see the lower part is differet but most line up i think thats what it reffers to

 

Thanks for the awesome pic and explanation Dr. FrankenSTEIN! (Young Frankenstein kick ass) I'm laughing, thinking back to when I needed to do my clutch and was considering shop work. When you said just pull the damn thing I can do it an a couple hours.... Now I'm jumping in there no fear and know I can swap this bad boy out no prob! Thanks for the motivation :)