slodat's 510

[]2eDeYe]

I use this on oil pans, axles transsmissions and other hard to seal (oil soaked) places...with or without a gasket, it does not leak.

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

 

 

They sell it in most parts stores. It's a little pricey compared to silicon sealer, but well worth the extra expense.

[slodat]

Thanks ]2eDeYe! My next question is, do I use the Nissan Comp gasket with this stuff?

[slodat]

I just picked up a tube of "The Right Stuff". It was $25, $20 after car club discount. Trying to decide if I should use the gasket with it or not. I really want it to seal this time!

[mklotz70]

have you hammered the lip flat again? I wonder if the "spreaders" they use for valve covers will work on the oil pan. Might have to shorten them a bit, but the more you can spread the load from the bolt, the better it will seal.

[slodat]

This is what Kelvin Dietz sent me from the bluebirds list a while back when I asked about sealing up an L series oil pan.

 

If you can get the Nissan Comp (or NISMO now) "cardboard" gasket, that's always nice. Cork works fine, however.

 

There is a trick L-series pans. Get the bolts tight enough but not too tight. Problem with that is they usually loosen after a while.

I start by cleaning each bolt well. Then I apply Vibra-Tite (a liquid vinyl - Google it) to the threads. I suppose Blue Loctite would work, but I've done it this way for years.

 

I coat both sides of the gasket (cork, usually) with GE Silicone II and smear it to a thin coat with my finger. I apply the gasket to the pan after the RTV has set a bit. Then I install the pan on the block but just tightening the bolts enough so the pan is held.

Allow the RTV to cure until it's just tacky. Then tighten the bolts in a reasonable pattern. (not one after another, ya know...)

 

Tighten the bolts until you just barely see the gasket move under that bolt. Again... follow a logical pattern around those 22 bolts.

With the Vibra-Tite filling the threads they won't back out and you won't be tightening the gasket enough to cut it. The RTV will actually work as an o-ring rather than squishing out as it would if you tightened the pan before it cured a bit.

 

Make sense? I've built dozens of L-series motor and once I figured this routine out I've never had a leaky pan. Most of the ones before did.

 

I have the Nissan Comp oil pan gasket, blue locktite for the bolts and The Right Stuff gasket sealer. I'm heading downstairs to put the engine on the engine stand and re-seal the oil pan. The comp gasket is pretty thick, which may help.

[]2eDeYe]

Use the gasket if you have it. Don't let the that gasket sealer sit for too long. Good luck (although I think you have a winning combination there)

[slodat]

Well, I found a place to lighten, surface and balance my flywheel today Dan Hall's Automotive Machine (1831 N Killingsworth St, Portland, OR). I won't have it back until Friday. Soo, it is doubtful I will have the 510 running for GG. The good news is, it will be done right.

[Icehouse]

That sucks your dime isn't going to make it :( So its the you and the 620 now, right?

[]2eDeYe]

That's the mindset I'm trying to keep...Do it right, don't just get it done...

 

I moved my drivable date out to Canby :eek:

[slodat]

That sucks your dime isn't going to make it :( So its the you and the 620 now, right?

 

I just got a call from the machine shop, the flywheel I took in was shit, so I'm hoping my other one is good. Or, I may be out a chunk of change for a new flywheel. I already bought a Roadster clutch, so I need a 200mm 6 bolt.

 

Yep, me and the 620. I almost bought a '79 KC last night, but I don't think I can afford getting it road worthy right now. My 620 runs good, so I'm sticking with it.

 

2eDeYe;4096']That's the mindset I'm trying to keep...Do it right' date=' don't just get it done...

 

I moved my drivable date out to Canby :eek:[/quote']

 

That's the way to do it. Otherwise the entire time you are working on it, you know you will be re-doing stuff.

[Bleach]

so is it the Datsun cars from 1975-80 that have the L20b with 200mm flywheel?

[slodat]

That is correct. I have a spare in the basement that I'm taking to the machine shop now. Here's to hoping it is good.

[Jason]

You guys are right. The 200mm 6 bolt flywheel came on L20b's in the 610, 710, HL510 and first gen 200sx. They are getting harder to find......

[slodat]

Try impossible to find. I decided to sell the brand new, unopened Roadster clutch and go with a 240Z clutch. I already have a 225mm flywheel that is good.

 

The 225mm flywheel is at the machine shop. I got a 225mm clutch and pressure plate for $97 at Discount Import Parts. Daiken brand. And, I sold the roadster clutch and pp for what I paid for them. All in all, a good deal. Still won't be done in time for GG

[Bleach]

good choice. I like the smooth feel of the stock 225mm vs the Roadster 200mm. The 225 holds good too. Besides, I'm sure you've got far less than 200ft lbs of torque. You won't have any slipping.

[Jason]

My 200mm flywheel was lightened to about 20lbs and I'm using a the Roadster pressure plate and stock clutch disk on it, a bit stiff, but, it grabs very nicely. I also have a lightened 225mm flywheel at about 20lbs also, I've got the pickup pressure plate for this one along with a clutch disk from the 1974-1979 620 pickup L20b. I like how this one feels also. The difference is 650kg clamping force for the Roadster one and 550kg for the truck one. Either way, it's way more than the 350kg of the stocker!

[71-521]

what year truck was that for?

[Jason]

1974-1979 620 Pickup, I edited my post to reflect that, sorry :o .

[Icehouse]

I like the Exedy 3 puck I have on my SR now that is a stiff pedal :D Maybe they make a 225 mm version :)

[slodat]

The clutch I bought was Exedy. It is for a Z car. Almost double the clamp force of the stock clutch (as Jason says above). I got the PP & disc for $97. Made in Japan!

 

I was told by a few of the club members tonight the same thing Bleach said about it being smooth. I'm happy the way that turned out..

[datzenmike]

You guys are right. The 200mm 6 bolt flywheel came on L20b's in the 610, 710, HL510 and first gen 200sx. They are getting harder to find......

 

Hi jason,

the talk about the 200mm flywheel just jogged my memory, so I dug out my 2nd generation 200sx manual and it says that the '80-'81 sx has the 200mm flywheel. In the '82 and '82 supplement it doesn't say it's changed. I always said they had the 225mm ones. Anyway when I get a chance I'll measure one and post results.

 

What's the max amount that can be removed to resurface a flywheel? The one I have is 'scratched'

 

As for using the roadster clutch, could not a reputable shop drill the 200mm bolt pattern onto a 225mm flywheel?

[Jason]

Hi Mike, hmmm.... if I recall the engine in the 81-82 is the Z series, is the bolt pattern and spacing the same? If it is, then bingo! The 200mm refers to the amount of friction area I believe, I have seen a 200mm PP used on a 225mm flywheel before, don't think it's something I'd like to try.

[datzenmike]

Hi jason,

Yup, a Z20E (5 spd). I have one on my junker car, but it's scratched and needs to be milled. When I'm able I'll measure it to be sure. As I understand it, the L20B, as well as the Z20, Z22, (E or S) and the truck Z24 (carb) and the Z24i (throttle body) had the same flywheel six bolt pattern, and the same main and rod bearings. The Six bolt, 200mm, 225mm, and 240mm flywheels were interchangeable. The L20B and the Z20E, and maybe the S, had the same fully counterweighted crankshaft. Identical AFAIK.

 

Saw a KA FWD flex plate and it is six bolt, looks the same but don't know for sure, maybe. Jeff might know, he bolted a Z tranny case up to a KA.

 

And , yes, I remember the clutch you took off, only to find a smaller disc inside. He he. It works, different, but it works.

[Jason]

Well, it obviously worked eh ;) ! Wow, if the 200mm flywheels from the Z's are the same then we have some possibilities here. With your flywheel, why not take the manky thing over to your local, trusted machine shop and ask their opinion? I did the same with that slightly mangled 225mm we looked at. Andy verified it good so it was re surfaced and waiting for install now.

[slodat]

Yes, you can use a Z2x 200mm flywheel. Yes, you can also have a machine shop drill a 225mm flywheel to mount a 200mm clutch. There is nothing wrong with doing this. I considered it an option, but didn't want to invest my money in unnecessary machine work. So, I opted for a good (Exedy) 225mm clutch to run on my 225mm flywheel. The 200mm and 225mm refer to the size of the clutch. The flywheel is the same OD, otherwise the starter wouldn't work ;)