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Kirden

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Everything posted by Kirden

  1. it says in the article I think, something like 380nm (280ish ft)
  2. Kirden

    Valentine

    Bling $$$ Better watch out, Mrbig may get jealous.
  3. Now I'm waiting on summit. pistons rings and bolts haven't shipped yet... Gonna call them tomorrow to see what's going on. If they have them at the GA store I'll drive up to get them.
  4. Well honestly there are plenty of threads here on ratsun about the VG swap. The L6? not so much, but if you search there are some trucks with that swap on here. Most have to either cut the firewall or get creative with the radiator (mounting it in the bed or cutting out the support and mounting between the headlights) To each their own. Either way you are looking at about the same amount of power, and both swaps are similar to a KA24 for power. All are viable options for the sub-200hp mark and have varying degrees of modifications.
  5. I know you can shorten them and use MR2 inserts. There are quite a few options if you go that route. Not sure about anything shorter.
  6. Kirden

    Valentine

    37 pages and a very long day at work made much brighter. Love the truck and all the banter.
  7. It can be done but IMO if you are gonna go with a 6 do a VG. It's a somewhat common swap and no firewall or radiator fitment issues. Pleanty of power but ofc the front gets heavier. Experimental engineering offers plenty of parts for this but their site is either down or NLA. VG30.com The V6 is a lite 6 as well. Probably similar or lighter than the L6.
  8. These stories were great, thanks for the pick me up on a long dreary Monday morning.
  9. Firstly, welcome to ratsun and datsuning. Usually this would be posted in the engine section, but many people will help non the less. There are some nazis here, but we don't tell them that... If you can provide the year that will help, but if your truck is 75+ it should have the L20B. In that case, unless the jets are totally off, the 32/36 weber should be perfect or even a little weak for your engine. I'm running a 32/36 on my L18 and have never tuned it but still don't have this pop. It sounds like you have an ignition problem to me. Does your truck still smoke badly since the latest bang? It could have detonated and damaged something internal. If I were you I would check the timing (there is a video on this site about changing a headgasket that will be very helpful for timing). Also, check your plugs, wires, distributor parts (cap, rotor) and all of the electrical connections to your distributor and coil. I had a loose connection to my coil and had issues of bogging and deceleration on bumpy roads. Once we found it it cleared up.
  10. Leave one blue to fuck with tanker imo :P Edit: Wow, I just realized this was my first post in your thread. I've followed it for a while now but never posted. Your truck is awesome. Everything is so clean and I love the color.
  11. Then it should be 104 :P
  12. Should either be bamboo tan (doubtful) 130 or 529 Or Cactus green 104 If this 510 is indeed cactus green I'm going with option number 2: http://bringatrailer.com/2013/10/23/seller-submission-clean-1971-datsun-510-roller/
  13. Kirden

    Molly Mustard

    Just for you bud...
  14. At times I think you guys are pricks, then someone comes along and saves my bacon. Love you guys *hugs*

    1. Skib

      Skib

      thats why I always say... Ratsun is my fav. disFUNctional family lolol

    2. MikeRL411

      MikeRL411

      "If you want to smell the roses, you have to put up with some pricks,"

  15. Yes, 15cc dish. Looks like your calculations aren't far from what ozdat says. So, should I trade the U67 for a closed chamber head? Really just trying to figure out if the quench area is something I need to worry about. This will be in a street driven truck. Aside from the occasional spirited run, there will be no "track time." Since higher CR increases the chance of detonation, but peanut heads reduce detonation, would a stock peanut and a stock U67 be similar? My gut tells me to use what I have and see if it works, but right now everything is apart so it's much easier to make any changes now. Eventually I do want a supercharger, but that will probably be years and a rebuild down the line. Edit: and datzenmike to the rescue. Thank you sir. This post was made before you added to your earlier respone so please disregard. Looks like I'll stick to the U67
  16. Didn't want to start a new thread for this so zombie attack! Alright, according to Ozdat's engine design, if my head and block have not been milled, my setup will create a 2.213L engine with 8.696:1 CR using the U67 head and stock squished head gasket size. Z22 crank L20B block bored to 87.5mm 28.25mm pin height pistons (-15cc) 152.5mm rods Now I'm planning for 0.25-0.5mm shaved off the block to clear the corrosion leaving me at 8.8-9:1 CR. Pistons will be 0.2-0.45mm below deck height. Here is the issue I'm running into. With that much dish on the pistons and an open chambered head, I may run into detonation problems. Would it be worth swapping to a closed chamber head to create a better combustion chamber? The Ozdat calc only has the V91 info for closed chambered heads and says 41ccs, so CR goes to the 9.3-9.6:1 area, which is still drivable on the local 93 octane. Could do some unshrouding to bring the CR back down if needed. So what would be the best bet? Closed chamber unshrouded to lower CR and give a better squish, or open and keep the CR lower to reduce detonation. This will not be a high RPM engine. The cam I plan to get is rated to make power up to 6600 rpms.
  17. I spoke ill of Fedex too soon, got home to a huge box on the porch. Why hello Mr. crank.
  18. LOL, really wish I could but these dattos are so needy lately.
  19. Woot, someone outbid me. Congrats if he sells under reserve, you are so JDM yo. And now... Fuckin waiting game :crying: I need to fire my fedex guy. UPS always delivers 1-2 days early, fedex waits till the estimated day and hides in the bushes till I leave so they can drop a note on my door instead of giving me my goodies... Monday I'll call up midstate machine. Gotta get an estimate for boring 2.5mm over, milling the block .25-.5mm, pressing on the pistons, and getting them to double check the bearing sizes I need. Supposedly I need one size over mains and two sizes over for rods. All that said I still have to tear down the block and get it ready.
  20. Sweet! Needs a floor shift 5 speed swap though so you can play Mrbig around town. Oh, and a light rack, cause it's cool. Should make for an awesome delivery vehicle. What color are you thinking?
  21. Hah! Yea, but if I win this ebay bid I'll be all cool JDM yo... If not I have enough for bearings and block machining :w00t: I'd love to say this will be in and running by St. Patty's (my b-day), but honestly the deadline is more like June. If I can get it back on the road with the L18 that will motivate me to finish faster, but until work calms down I can't be in a rush. We are swapping over out enitre system except for the e-com division. The stores (over 200), DCs, buyers, logistics, ect all get an overhaul and I just happen to work in WMS. When I'm not frazzled out of my mind I spend time with my son, not my Datsuns :(
  22. Damn sorry to hear it :( Please continue with your regular programming.
  23. Need less lazy... Still waiting on the crank and pistons to show up. The rods came in and look decent. Not exactly what I was expecting, but for $40 each they are good. They need a good cleaning as there seems to be some machining grit around the edges. Hopefully the machine shop will take care of that. Also waiting to make sure I don't win this bid on ebay before I purchase the bearings. Can't live off ramen till payday... I'm also trying to find time to get the carrier bearing rubber replaced but next week is the end of my company's fiscal year so things have been hectic. Still waiting on my thermostat upper and lower housing to show. If that ever gets here the truck will be back on the road with the L18 for now.
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