RatRod25 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 IVe herd bad things about 2 links.. Well impropely built 2 links.. not sayin a 2 link wont work it will if set up right... Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 what are these bad things? Quote Link to comment
RatRod25 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Ive herd of people tear up there carrier bearings, and or trannys.. And some wacky suspension characteristics.. But if well built you should be fine.. Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 i still really havent looked to hard into it but i think im going to be ok. The mounting of the arms are going to be on the carrier baring crossmember. Its going to make them really long, hoping not too long, and there wont be much arch in the vertical travel and the pivot point of the Drive Shaft will be in the same location making the pinion angle perfect at any height. The panhard will be fine as long as i follow the rules... Long, Low, Level. Quote Link to comment
521ofdoom Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I'm doing a 2 lnk with panhard bar, modeling it after a 41 ford sedan. If you need inspiration, look under a 60's chevy truck. The long arm 2 link works well on those. The only obstacle I see is the gas tank and exaust. Both are pretty minor. Then just add a crossmember and mount the bags. I'll be keeping the stock bed floor in mine, no frame dragging, but a smooth low ride, and no bottoming on driveways. Quote Link to comment
RatRod25 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Yeah the longer the bars the better you'll be.. Like you said with them longer it will have less pinion change.. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 The biggest issue i had on my 2 link was not enough axle articulation. If you put heim's on the front of the bars i think that'll help. Whatever you design im sure it'll be kool :cool: Quote Link to comment
airedout Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I would highly recommend that you read into this article by bio max before deciding on a 2 link. Hes got a whole forum on SSM with loads of useful information on suspension setup and design. http://www.streetsource.com/forum/topic.aspx?topic_id=85853&Page=1 I presonally would never use a 2 link. For the little bit of extra work and expense of a 4 link you gain so much. Much more tunability, and performance oriented design. Yes there are people that will say "our trucks only have 90hp so performance doesnt matter to me". When ever i design a suspension, it is supposed to be better than stock. I love to take my bagged trucks down winding roads and be capable of entering and leaving a turn at high speeds. Low HP numbers do no mean that our trucks cannot preform. Work looks great so far!!! Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Bart you Rock! Your work is looking GREAT! We need to get together soon and get Kya to tag along too. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 the two link, in my opinion, just isnt a good rout. you could easily go 3 link or even better 4 link and still make it look old school. that spreader bar in the back is an awesome idea, looks good too. i like the direction youre going with this. what my biggest question is why do you want to go to 2 link? Quote Link to comment
521ofdoom Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Not that I'm a NASCAR fan, but they still use a 2 link just like the 60's chevy trucks. The long links mounted solid to the diff keep the pinion angle constant, and with long bars, triangulated, it lets the diff twist as well as move up and down. This gives a smooth ride, something a 4 link or even a 3 link doesn't do as well. Unless you use heim joints, but then you have much more NVH. Troy ermish did a 610 and used pillow ball mounts on the axle to allow the diff to twist. Letting the axle articulate is more important than you think. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Not that I'm a NASCAR fan, but they still use a 2 link just like the 60's chevy trucks. The long links mounted solid to the diff keep the pinion angle constant, and with long bars, triangulated, it lets the diff twist as well as move up and down. This gives a smooth ride, something a 4 link or even a 3 link doesn't do as well. Unless you use heim joints, but then you have much more NVH. Troy ermish did a 610 and used pillow ball mounts on the axle to allow the diff to twist. Letting the axle articulate is more important than you think. the 610 mentioned must be a wagon 610s shared the same irs that the 510 had 2 link would work well but if your already fabbing i say 4 link Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 No arguing on my damn thread! :fu: Ill do what i see fit. Quote Link to comment
521ofdoom Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I was wrong, it was a 710. His main concern was preventing torsional bind. Something a 2 link does well. A 4 link is more ridgid, but compromises articulation. It's all relevent to your final goal. A 2 link is simpler, which means less to go wrong. I prefer it. However, all the race cars with solid axles that I have driven were 4 link with a watts linkage, and they're fast and work well on track. It's all what you're looking for. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I was wrong, it was a 710. His main concern was preventing torsional bind. QUOTE] im gonna guess the white 2door sedan that he had for sale a while ago that was full race on topic i really like this truck i cant wait to see it done and i was thinking about it last night since yhour going with an old school look a 2 link would be your best bet Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 This morning i decided to make my water pump a little brighter. Polished it even though it was steel but cleared over it. The front polished out great but the outer rim looked horrible so i covered it with paint. Stopped by Streamline Hot Rod Parts in Denver an spent about 14 bucks in chrome and billet. Chrome oil filter cover. Billet dash knobs. The longest ones they had :D still need to buy 2 more but wanted to make sure they fit first. If you're curious about the turn signals, Took the Stainless trim to the polisher. Hit the lenses with fine grit sand paper to take out the pits and DOT markings then scuffed them with scotch brite under the tap. A couple coats of clear and they're good as new. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
lukey Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 how in the world did I miss this thread!?! this is freaking awesome!!! cant wait to see some more progress man! I have a set of pot-o-walls hanging at my dads shop...not sure how they will look on a 620 though. Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 BAM! 620 with port a walls Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 all tacked in. 3/16 in plate, a buddy of mine cut them out on the iron worker at his shop... still had to drill the damn holes though. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
denveratsun Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Yeah man! Sweet! I wanna see it for my self too!...maybe this week? Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 should be up there all week. :) Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Got the top sides welded up. Ill have to wait for the lift to free up before I can weld the bottom side. We've been really busy trying to get a northstar cadillac out the door. If someone asks you to replace head gaskets on one of these cars, DONT DO IT! Bart Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Looks good Madness.........that frame is'nt goin anywhere...;) Hey just jack it up & weld the bottom, lifts are underrated :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 welding overhead is easier when standing, you can dodge the molten metal falling and its a lot easier to start running around the shop like an idiot when you do get burned. Besides, we have a lift and I'm going to use it damn it. Its not as pretty as I wanted it to be but it'll work. Quote Link to comment
Smiley720 Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Damn Bart. I guess I have been away from Troy's shop longer than I thought. Or you have been busy. I was in there BS'n with Ryan a couple weeks ago and didn't see the fishes on the frame. But it is coming along nicely. You should come by the house and see the progress in person instead of on the forum. Quote Link to comment
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