thisismatt Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 Leaving it connected, back probe the top of the T connector (S in this case) while off, and then running. Should have battery voltage when off, then around 13.5-14.4v running. Otherwise it would seem like the alternator is not regulating correctly. Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 8 hours ago, thisismatt said: Leaving it connected, back probe the top of the T connector (S in this case) while off, and then running. Should have battery voltage when off, then around 13.5-14.4v running. Otherwise it would seem like the alternator is not regulating correctly. I'll try that this morning. Alternator guy says to check if the IGN light goes off when the alternator is unplugged Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 9 hours ago, thisismatt said: Leaving it connected, back probe the top of the T connector (S in this case) while off, and then running. Should have battery voltage when off, then around 13.5-14.4v running. Otherwise it would seem like the alternator is not regulating correctly. When connected this way, the top of the plug has battery voltage when off, and 14.8 when engine is running at around 1200 rpm. Both the top and the bottom of the plug were outputting that same voltage. Isn’t the bottom Of the plug supposed to have lower voltage? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 6 minutes ago, andyZ00m said: When connected this way, the top of the plug has battery voltage when off, and 14.8 when engine is running at around 1200 rpm. Both the top and the bottom of the plug were outputting that same voltage. Isn’t the bottom Of the plug supposed to have lower voltage? Bottom acts as ground until the alt excites, then outputs battery voltage. That's why the ignition lamp illuminates and then turns off as the voltage potential across the bulb equalizes. 14.8 is pretty high. Sounds like the regulator isn't working properly 🤷♂️ 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 2 hours ago, thisismatt said: Bottom acts as ground until the alt excites, then outputs battery voltage. That's why the ignition lamp illuminates and then turns off as the voltage potential across the bulb equalizes. 14.8 is pretty high. Sounds like the regulator isn't working properly 🤷♂️ One other thing Im going to check is whether the output of the plug is correct without the plug connected, its possible that the way its wired it is ganging the top and bottom of the plug together. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 The threaded holes on the exhaust manifold for the air injectors are M14, which is a common oil drain plug thread. I actually used oil drain plugs with copper washers to seal off the ports. 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 22 minutes ago, mainer311 said: The threaded holes on the exhaust manifold for the air injectors are M14, which is a common oil drain plug thread. I actually used oil drain plugs with copper washers to seal off the ports. Nice! They look smaller than that to me but I’ll start there. There are the 4 from the bar and then there is the one larger one attached to the carb. I was just gunna pull everything off and take the part to the hardware store. We have an OSH here that still has the insanely well endowed hardware section and I have to Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 (edited) Update on brakes: bled the lines with the air compressor tool and turns out me and the 5 year old did pretty good. Almost no air. Got the adjusters all lubed and cleaned up. Did the 7 clicks back trick and then hit the brakes hard then readjusted. I think the old adjusters were just super rusted solid. They move easily now and after a couple rounds of braking and adjusting the truck can EASILY lock up all 4 tires and feels tight and solid. So we got the most important safety thing dialed!!! Thanks! Also I now know how to dial In this system. Edited November 25, 2023 by andyZ00m 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 If I use a power bleeder at all, I always finish up with the two person, pump/hold method. 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: If I use a power bleeder at all, I always finish up with the two person, pump/hold method. Yeah my buddy is a Chevy guy and just does the power bleeder himself cause it’s a much higher volume. We did the two person pedal bleed to finish it off and it worked great. The reservoir on this thing is the volume of a mouse fart and can handle a pump or two of the pedal before risking a top off. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 4 X 10" drums is a lot of stopping power! Easily equal to 4 wheel disc brakes, BUT they need to be checked and adjusted a few times a year to keep them optimum. Disc brakes are easier to modulate close to but not full on lock up, they are virtually maintenance free, fewer parts and easy to swap pads, and if you live in hilly territory disc brakes have superior heat fade resistance. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 Update on this alternator situation. If I leave the jumper plug in when starting the engine, the battery, S and L lead all have ~15VDC. If I then unplug the jumped plug while running, the S has nothing and the L has the high 15.5 same as the battery lead. If I start the engine with the jumper unplugged, I get nothing out of the alternator unless I plug it back in and then I get 14.8 everywhere. Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 is this a problem! The pulsing lights seem like its a problem… Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 2 hours ago, andyZ00m said: is this a problem! The pulsing lights seem like its a problem… for god’s sakes finish the haiku! You are so close! 1 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) The voltage is too high either way. At 14.8V your battery will start gassing at 50°. Edited November 26, 2023 by thisismatt Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) 6 minutes ago, thisismatt said: The voltage is too high either way. At 14.8V your battery will start gassing at 50°. Yeah, gunna go back to the Chinese unregulated unit for now and upgrade to a proper regulated unit when this one poops. I really though this magnetics wizard had a good one… Edited November 26, 2023 by andyZ00m Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Might be okay if you want to run lithium 😆 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 2 hours ago, Slow Loris said: for god’s sakes finish the haiku! You are so close! My Datsun Piece of shit But then It gets me Nowhere... 1 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Three lines of five, seven, three syllable Hauku. My Datsun frustrates But at all other times I'm sublime 3 1 Quote Link to comment
Slow Loris Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 33 minutes ago, datzenmike said: My Datsun frustrates But at all other times I'm sublime Ratsun: Where poetry and Datsuns meet. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Smog pumps are super they are rusted so badly cannot remove them Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) Pulled the smog pump last night and all of its spaghetti. The exhaust mini manifold is VERY rusted (see my haiku above) and they arent gunna come out easy. The engine was SO dirty and covered in cakes of ancient grime. Im still cleaning it up. Any recommendations for getting these fuckers out? They have been soaking in WD all night, so maybe they will come out this morning. If not, gunna bust out the blow torch and see if that works. I was was thinking about using a dremel to detatch the tube and then use a socket to remove the bolts... but to do this I would need to remove the carburetor to get at the two in the middle. Got all the parts ready for the new dizzy but I see the issue with the mounting plate. The screw that attaches the dizzy to mounting plate is in a different spot on this one versus the existing unit. I think I can have a buddy fabricate something for me that will work as I dont think I can find one out in the wild. (unless anyone has one) Edited November 26, 2023 by andyZ00m Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Try loosening them when the engine is hot. The fact that you've been spraying it down already is definitely going to help. 1 Quote Link to comment
andyZ00m Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 This is what I need. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) In a pinch, you can use a pair of dykes to snip off the tubes, then use some large pliers to fold the tubes over to close them off. It also allows you to then get a 6-sided socket over them vs a crappy open end wrench. Your exhaust manifold looks a little different than when I did mine. I can’t really tell. Maybe the M14 plugs won’t work? Measure the OD of the plug threads once one comes out. Edited November 26, 2023 by mainer311 Quote Link to comment
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