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Danno’s 620 Build


280Dan

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31 minutes ago, 280Dan said:

Some people have mentioned offsetting the fan to the drivers side and it should clear so I’ll check tonight. I’m sure cooler heads will prevail as I was already very irritated from working in the heat/humidity all day by that point

On my 521 I used 2 different size fans... originally I had 2 the same size but I was able to go a little bigger on one side since the motor is tilted... my guess it's the 3 row vs 2 row just takes up a little more room....

I'd put the radiator in place and see what you have for room... you could use cardboard to see... cut a piece the size of the radiator core where the fans would go... then trace the water pump onto it then you can figure out where the fans can live. 

 

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Took it for a drive today. Did a little stop and go and some nice pulls. Then a steady 60 for about 5miles, stopped and let it idle for a few minutes and the temp would creep up to about 3/4. Drove home and checked the temp after turning it off for a couple and the gauge was nearly maxed. It’s definitely getting hot if I’m not moving

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Well within the limits. Running a little low. Should drive about half way on that 'run range' area. I would guess it peaks at about 190-195F. You could check by 'shooting' the thermostat housing with an IR gun.

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Just making sure.... 

 

What about the fan blades?

Would they need to be flipped around too?

Just wondering about the angle of the blade..... 

 

 

Legitimate question.  Fan may not be efficient as a pusher instead of puller if not designed to run that way.

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34 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

 

Legitimate question.  Fan may not be efficient as a pusher instead of puller if not designed to run that way.

So far I don’t think it cools as well as the clutch fan did in stop and go driving but this setup I’m running is only temporary till I do the engine swap so it’ll work for now. If I was keeping this engine in it I’d probably do what other have and switch out the single 14” for a dual puller setup with smaller fans.

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Many electric fans are far less powerful when pushing air. Some of this has to do with fan blade design, but it also has to do with the act of gathering the air. A puller fan has a short built in shroud that helps gather and focus the air. When you turn that fan around and start pushing with it, the shroud is useless.

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2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Just making sure.... 

 

What about the fan blades?

Would they need to be flipped around too?

Just wondering about the angle of the blade..... 

 

 

No need to. The motor runs in reverse now. Best if the blades are symmetrical.

 

Best shrouds are fans that are joined to a hoop around the perimeter. When the blade tries to move air there is a high pressure and low pressure side. The high pressure side will try to slip around the tip to equalize the low pressure.

 

It's why planes have winglets on the ends of the wings.

 

Why Are Aircraft Wings Curved At The End? » Science ABC 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So while I’ve been waiting to start the swap I wanted to pull the bench seat out to test fit the bucket seats and center console. Well I definitely need new cab bushings as well as some metal repair around the passenger side cab bushing bolt hole. Also sound some swiss cheese at the rear of the passenger side of the cab. I’m a bit afraid to pull the sound deadening material up although I don’t recall seeing any hole in the floor pans from under the truck

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Test fitting the seats and console in. The seats fit nice except for height I’m going to need to modify the brackets, maybe remove the cross member the bench bolts to, otherwise I’m happy with them. The center console couldn’t fit any better I’m super happy I’ll have a nice console now

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I think I've seen worse rusty floors, poke the underside with an awl to find any week rusty spots where the sound deadening stuff is and that console looks really nice. It looks like you'll need to remove the armrest from the seat back, it may require removing the cover to get access. Hog rings and hog ring pliers may be needed. Sometimes you can glue a piece of fabric to the inside of the hole that's left to hide it. If your lucky there may be some spacers between the seat and the rails to lower it other wise the mounting points will need modification. I have often found the rear mount needed to be shortened more than the front for comfort. Nice build, it's looking great.

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8 hours ago, Rustbin said:

I think I've seen worse rusty floors, poke the underside with an awl to find any week rusty spots where the sound deadening stuff is and that console looks really nice. It looks like you'll need to remove the armrest from the seat back, it may require removing the cover to get access. Hog rings and hog ring pliers may be needed. Sometimes you can glue a piece of fabric to the inside of the hole that's left to hide it. If your lucky there may be some spacers between the seat and the rails to lower it other wise the mounting points will need modification. I have often found the rear mount needed to be shortened more than the front for comfort. Nice build, it's looking great.

Yeah my Z floor pans and frame rails were nearly non existent at a point. The arm rest will most likely be getting removed too

 

37 minutes ago, shlammed said:

Those seats look like they sit fairly high in the photos. Lower those down too?

 

They are sitting high so I plan on modifying the mounts to get them to sit lower 

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So out of curiosity I decided to check and adjust the valve clearance and was hoping to find an obvious cause for the backfire. Only had a few exhaust valves slightly tight and a few intake slightly loose. Adjusted them to spec and still having the backfire through the carb under acceleration 

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Setting the lash is something anything can do for free.

 

Still backfiring could be a worn or damaged valve/seat. Try a compression test for a weak cylinder.

Damaged cap and/or rotor or old plug wires with poor resistance.

Partly blocked secondary jet if this happens only when the secondary is open.

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