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Danno’s 620 Build


280Dan

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Hey guys, going to start a build thread here and also thinking about starting a YouTube to document it as well (I’ll link it here if I do).

 

Some may have seen pics already but I’m starting off with a 1979 620 I purchased from a guy out in Colorado. It’s pretty rust free with some very minor areas needing attention like the battery tray. There also some wiring issues I’ve recently started to tackle. Otherwise the PO looks like he’s had it repainted at some point and installed a Redline Weber but I don’t think it’s tuned/running correctly.

 

Build plans:

I do have a blacktop Beams engine and trans that’ll be getting swapped in, hopefully by this time next year. Plan is to run with cam, itbs and exhaust.

Also going to be getting a four link rear and most likely bags, although I keep going back and forth between those and coilovers. It’ll be getting flares next and then seats from a Honda CRV. I have a center console out of a Neon SRT. I’m toying with the idea of reupholstering the CRV seats with the funky teal seat cover from the bench seat currently in the truck but we’ll see.

 

Some before and current pics

How it sat when I first got it:

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the Beams swap

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installed a Pon Retro front spoiler

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I’m frequently at my local track so there’s always media guys getting good shots, I’ll be sure to throw some in here from time to time

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added some leftover vinyl plank flooring to the bed I had after doing my floors in my house. It’s just laid on top of some particle board for now. I want to adhere it to something more sturdy so I can easily take it in and out when needed

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got my hands on a set of used SSR Interceptors from Japan through KyushaGarage on instagram (he always has a nice inventory of wheels)

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how she currently sits after a set of 4” blocks and reindexing the torsion bars

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Got the camber relatively close to being even on each side. It’ll do for now, though I still need to make a minor toe adjustment

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Last night I installed a new hazard switch which corrected my inop turn signals and I’m now trying to get my fuel gauge to read. After reading some posts from Datzenmike, I’ve verified my coolant temp gauge works fine and after grounding the wire going to the tank the fuel gauge will read full. So if I’m to understand it correctly I either have an issue with the level sensor itself or the ground for the sensor? Without dropping the tank I tried to peak at the wire going to the tank to see if it was broken anywhere but doesn’t look like it. It is pretty crusty looking up there thoughF8FB29B1-1094-41EC-BE01-940826A9E76B.thumb.jpeg.75d5fb1ba40355357a122ab5e6a03922.jpeg

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finally a beams swap. I am wanting to do a beams in a datsun. Can you take a few pics of how the oil pan of the beams sits in the 620 and what you needed to modify?

 

truck is dope. now you need the pandem kit or atleast some flares. 

Edited by sick620
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On 4/29/2023 at 4:40 AM, Str8jacket said:

Nice rig! You've done well on scoring one in that condition.

I would love to get a hold of a set of those SSRs look great. 

Thanks! I would recommend following kyushagarage on instagram if you have an account. He’s always posting rare/JDM wheels for sale. He was great to deal with on the purchase.

 

On 4/29/2023 at 8:26 PM, shlammed said:

Do you have flares or getting new wheel lips?

I have a set of flares that’ll be going on. I haven’t decided if I’m going to wait until I install bags or not. I still need to get some spacers for the front and rear to get the fitment right with the flares on as they’re pretty wide.

 

On 4/29/2023 at 9:05 PM, sick620 said:

finally a beams swap. I am wanting to do a beams in a datsun. Can you take a few pics of how the oil pan of the beams sits in the 620 and what you needed to modify?

 

truck is dope. now you need the pandem kit or atleast some flares. 

I haven’t installed it yet but I’ll be sure to document the swap process as throughly as I can since there’s not too many beams swapped 620s out there. I plan on starting the swap over winter hopefully.

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I found a repo fuel tank sender from ebay - thailand I think but mine still not working, the old one needed a clean on the sender internals and bending the contacts and appears to change resistance as it should, I need to trace the wire from the gauge and ensure its actually connected as PO did the wiring.

 

After seeing those wheels I'll be looking that mob up on instagrammy.  How much are your fronts out of the guard now? With flares will you cut the guard to fit up higher or just do them so they hide in the flares better?

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I’ll be cutting the fenders for the flares as I’d like to go lower in the near future either via airbags or coilovers. I’m going to need a 3/4” spacer in the front and a 1.5” spacer in the rear to get them to sit flush with the flares

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Overall she rode well but I definitely think I have an intermittent misfire. While cruising at a steady 65-70 it randomly feels like the engine is getting punched in the face. I’m going to give it a general tune up and get new plugs, wires, cap rotor and coil and see how it is

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Welp it finally happened. After over ten years of commuting on the parkway I finally got a stone chip…unfortunately it was in the Datsun and while it was only a simple star that could’ve been filled, it has now spread to an 8” crack while sitting 🤬. Luckily I have coverage through Hagerty but I’m not too excited to have to have someone replace the windshield now

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So decided to pull the bed to dig into the fuel level sender issue further over the weekend. Of course it wouldn’t be as simple as I’d have hoped. Once the bed was off we determined the wiring was all good and we were going to pull the sender. Decided to clean up the frame and while removing old crust/gunk we unearthed multiple holes in the front of the tank. Needless to say I’ll be replacing the tank at this point. We also pulled the sender and it was completely rusted up along with the inside of the tank. I’ll most likely be going with a fuel cell, is it necessary, no, do I want one, yeah. 

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Bummer.

 

Fuel cells are overkill for a daily driver. And they cost $1500 or more. RCI is a brand a cheap aluminum fuel tanks that you can get at Jegs. They call them fuel cells, but they are just tanks without the inner bladder. You'll need to fab up some kind of brackets or straps for these tanks. I've welded brackets onto them, but then also supported them from the bottom to keep them from cracking at the bracket. I'm super cautious of things that can kill me or one of my customers.

 

https://www.jegs.com/p/RCI/RCI-Aluminum-Fuel-Cells/763069/10002/-1

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Bummer.

 

Fuel cells are overkill for a daily driver. And they cost $1500 or more. RCI is a brand a cheap aluminum fuel tanks that you can get at Jegs. They call them fuel cells, but they are just tanks without the inner bladder. You'll need to fab up some kind of brackets or straps for these tanks. I've welded brackets onto them, but then also supported them from the bottom to keep them from cracking at the bracket. I'm super cautious of things that can kill me or one of my customers.

 

https://www.jegs.com/p/RCI/RCI-Aluminum-Fuel-Cells/763069/10002/-1

Most of the ones I've been looking at are only a few hundred. Also considering it now vs later because I will be doing a 4-link rear when I install bags. I also have a beams engine swap that we'll be doing hopefully by next year

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A nice shot someone took at a recent meet before the tank issue

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This weekend we got the tank in. Fittings and lines should be here tomorrow. Still have to prep and paint the frame, and figure out a muffler I want for the new side exit. I also plan to undercoat the underside of the bed.
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Not like it’s seen once the bed is on but I like how the back of the cab patina’d some I’m going to throw a coat of clear on it

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I'd strongly suggest you remove the phillips head screws on top of the dash while you have your windshield out in case you ever want to remove the dash....install something you can get a socket on.

 

The only place my truck had any rust is exactly where your "patina" is...😁

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