Danno’s 620 Build

[280Dan]

16 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

I'd strongly suggest you remove the phillips head screws on top of the dash while you have your windshield out in case you ever want to remove the dash....install something you can get a socket on.

 

The only place my truck had any rust is exactly where your "patina" is...😁

Good to know! I guess I was lucky with my previous 280Z as they came right out no problem

[280Dan]

On 6/26/2023 at 1:27 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

What brand tank did you end up with?

Went with this one from Rhodes. Pretty basic and cost effective. I do have to add foam to it however as it didn’t come with any or baffles. But that was expected at the price point https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RHC-18-0117-SU

[280Dan]

Well now I need a new radiator. Anyone have a tabs on a cheap replacement?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Tons of Rads out there make sure you get the lower inlet part right in photo. Not a 510 rad!!!!

Quailty is hit or miss soemtimes. I got a off brand and leaked brand new. I then got a Champion and was fine but really they looked the same.

also One might need to add a 1/4 thich washer or spacer cause the rad bumps right up to the core support

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=1977-1979+datsun+620++Champion+radiator&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=datsun+620+radiator+Champion&_osacat=0

[280Dan]

The lower hose outlet on most I’m seeing have an angle to them and the one in my truck was just straight

[datzenmike]

That radiator is sure not the original. It looks aluminum with crimp on, top and bottom tanks. Originals do have a 90 bend to get the hose around the alternator, which begs the question how did you get you lower hose to work?

[280Dan]

46 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

That radiator is sure not the original. It looks aluminum with crimp on, top and bottom tanks. Originals do have a 90 bend to get the hose around the alternator, which begs the question how did you get you lower hose to work?

Mike I wish I could tell you but once again I only can go off what PO had done and this is what I got…

 

I was already mad about the alternator he used cause it’s larger than original causing the lower hose to literally be stuffed around it, not allowing me slide the alternator to change the belt. It’s annoying cause I don’t want to spend to much keeping this current setup running when I’m going to be starting the engine swap over the winter. Anyone have a photo of how this is supposed to look?

[280Dan]

Some better pics of this mess. What hose is supposed to go there then?

[banzai510(hainz)]

OH man that dont lookright at all.

 

Key is lookup the inlet hose shape then youll be sure to gett the correct radiator.(im thinking the one with the 90deg) Most likely look up the 79 rad and the intake hose and Imthinking youll be fine, Unless the Alternator is HUGE and causes a issue

Edited July 5, 2023 by banzai510(hainz)

[280Dan]

(I’m a big pictures guy and I know you like them)

 

fan definitely made contact and I suspect the engine mounts are heavily worn so I ordered some off rockauto. I’m now contemplating removing the fan clutch and installing an electric fan instead

 

The hose and how it was oriented in and around the alternator 

 

fan’s definitely made contact

[datzenmike]

 

 

 

Normally the hose exits the bend (I've seen 90 degree but most are more like 45?) outlet on the radiator and immediately bends itself upwards and then back beside the alternator (so close the alternator cooling fan will cut into the hose if not adjusted correctly) then a hairpin bend to onto the water pulp inlet.

 

 

[280Dan]

Thanks Mike, I saw your post about how to cut off the fan clutch. What size rad were you able to fit with an electric fan after doing that?

[datzenmike]

I use the stock 710 radiator. I just wanted to get rid of the power robbing clutch fan... and they are noisy too. My old '82 Omni had an electric fan and on the highway it never came on. Enough air was forced through just from vehicle speed. On my 620 I could drive into town and the bottom rad hose was still cool so all that fan churning was a waste of effort. With electric it only comes on at stops. In the picture in the previous post, that's the temperature sensor* from a late '90s Sentra 200sx w/ SR20. I think the turn on is around 190-195F. So my temp gauge runs a needle width higher than it used to with the clutch fan around town but the same on the highway. I connected the sensor to a fused relay because I wasn't sure if the sensor could handle the sudden high current draw on start up. I use a 30 amp fuse and that works but when the fans come on the dash lights dim for a second. They are wired on at all times so not uncommon to have the fan come on during the heat soak period just after shutting the engine off. Also, if not mentioned, I have two electric fans from a Subaru. They were too wide for side by side so I switched the wires on one to run backwards as a pusher and mounted it on the front right side. They overlap by a few inches but cover the entire radiator.  

 

* It's crucial that an automatic sensor be used rather than a dash mounted fan switch. This removes any chance of human error. 

 

 

 

 

[Sublime27]

where did you get that bed net? also digging the mirrors whered those come from?  love the build so far!

[280Dan]

Thank you! I actually get more comments on the net than I expected. The cargo net I got off Amazon, just used a universal based on the measurements of the bed and the *mirror was put on by the PO. I would like to do fender mirrors similar to what I had on my Z but that’s low on the priority list right now. 
 

[Danalive]

looks like a factory mirror

[280Dan]

So got a few things done yesterday. Replaced the throttle cable and removed the accelerator pedal to clean and relubricate it. After I got it all hooked back up I can’t help but feel like my gas pedal travel is short. The throttle fully opens but the gas pedal definitely doesn’t go to the floor. Can anyone verify if that is how it’s supposed to be? I’m getting 2” of travel

Edited July 9, 2023 by 280Dan

[280Dan]

Also replaced the engine mounts and the radiator came sooner than expected so I got it mocked up. Still need to decide on an e fan and get it plumbed and wired up. Also still need to remove the clutch. 
 

 

 

[280Dan]

Also noticed this and I do recall it backfiring through the intake. Anything I should be worried about here?

[280Dan]

Oh I forgot I also scooped up a clean set of Honda CRV seats. I plan to get these mocked up soon and then I can use the Dodge SRT4 center console I’ve had waiting to go in

[280Dan]

I forgot how long the site was down for I never posted a picture of the tank installed. I cleaned and clear coated the back of the cab and sprayed the frame. We had a storm coming and I needed to get truck back to my house so we rigged up the harness and lights till we can get the bed back on.

 

[280Dan]

Small update but I got the water pump pulley modified thanks to datzenmikes how to, nearly ate up an entire cutting wheel but we got there. The fan, temp sensor adapter and temp sensor should all be here by Saturday so hopefully she’ll be back up and running before the end of the weekend.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Let the wheel do the cutting. They last forever if you don't force it.

 

I did a job for a friend a few years ago, where we were cutting the tool boxes in his truck and shortening them. I cut one entire box apart with one cutoff wheel, and he used four to do the other box. Just sayin...

[280Dan]

Well I’m at a loss guys. I thought this rad and fan combo would work and clearly I was wrong because the fan doesn’t come close to fitting. I can’t even drop the rad all the way in. It’s a mishimoto slim line and the rad is a universal 3 row. Idk what I’m gonna do yet but I’ve had enough for today

[datzenmike]

Can you reverse the +- on the fan so it 'pushes' air and mount it in front blowing air through????

 

I couldn't mount my Subaru fans side by side so kept one on the left and reversed the other and mounted in front on the right.