Rustbin

Almost had a tragedy Tuesday on my way to work, the oil light went on. I was just a few blocks from work and didn't really trust the light so continued to work then looked under the hood. There was a coating of High ZDDP rust inhibitor all over the right side of the engine bay and along the underside, I checked the dipstick and nothing showed. On my break I texted my wife to pick up some Rotella oil which she thankfully delivered at lunchtime. I waited till after work to start looking for the leak, everything was black and shiny. I probed with the cellphone flashlight and saw a hose then texted my wife again to bring over some of my tools, I pulled off my newly painted front pan then tried to push the slippery hose back into place. Luckily Datzen Mike had left some paper towels in the back of the wagon because I needed them now, I wiped things down enough to get the hose back on them struggled to get a stubby screw driver into the small space to tighten the clamps. I topped it up using 4 of the 5 liters in the jug spilling some because I didn't have a funnel, then drove it home, keeping the revs low as to not blow the hose off again. This weekend I got under and tightened the clamps up a little more, after a test drive I didn't see anymore leaking but it's hard to tell with the underside so well lubed. I figure the high revving highway driving I did going to the CarBbq created enough pressure to push the hose a little and my driving style on my way to work finished the job. You know, two cars side by side at the lights, you just got to go for it.

There should be two links to YouTube videos, Search, Restore @workshopchidori . The first one came out 4 days ago the second 2 days ago. There is also videos of the work that was done on the Datsun 2000 roadster.

Just to let you see how to fix the dash.

I just finished rebuilding hinges for my 510 and I put a scrap of sheet metal with a hole in it over the busted bolt then blob a hot weld onto the bolt, then twist it off with visepliers. The heat breaks the rust bond allowing me to use the original part. Your part looks pretty bad, glad you can just make a new piece. Wish you had a metric tap and die set so you don't accidentally mix up the bolts and screw up the threads.

The '70 Nova looks like my ex brother in laws car, if not his it's twin.

My coworker and I met our wives at a local brew pub to see these guys play at the start of their tour. I chatted with the Glenn the singer in the parking lot where he was walking his dog, a cute little pup, he's a really nice guy. It was an acoustic gig as they were stuck in a corner, and it was alright. A short while after my wife went to a Trooper concert with her friend, and they were the the opening act. My wife said they were so much better electric and with a full drum kit. And they were selling those blue tooth cassette players with their other merch.

I like the sliders. On rigs out here paint is only to give you a little more time before it rusts, off road pinstripes happen and nice paint jobs don't stay that way. It looks like it could handle some of our back roads.

I attended a back yard carbbq today, food, live music,and Datsuns. Ok there were Nissans there too, as well as a smattering of other makes but all were cool. It was put on by a member of the Facebook group but open to all. I like meeting like minded people and one I hope to be able to help with his car. I took some pictures but spent most of my time talking. I drove there in the 710 wagon and it handled fabulously, took the coast highway most of the way because it is nice and curvy but with too many tourists I couldn't do it as fast as I would have liked, and on the big 4 lane highway I kept up to traffic easily. It feels so good to do it in a Datsun.

Looking good! I am so happy to see your progress, cause I have been wondering how you were doing.

I'm definitely in agreement about the earlier dash. If I were making it I would not have the pad wrap around down to the bottom, I would have them as two separate sections, with the flat flowing between from side to side. Looks like an awesome project.

It took me 20 years just to get started on my 510. Your B210 looks good, I wish you luck and take care.

I got to finishing something I started the first week of June after snagging my pants while climbing in to get something in the back seat. I made some paper patterns from the left hand side, laid them out on a section of 720 hood, then made some profile templates to bend up. I basically got the piece made up when I had to jump over to fix the hole at the left rear window. So when I got back to it I started inside the door opening, first along the wheelhouse then onto the rocker sill. I formed the edge that rolled into the door opening and trimmed it to fit then I removed the rear portion of the rocker and the bottom just crumbled. I found holes through the inner panel. I am going to have to replace the outer rocker panels but I'm going to leave that till later by just putting a little inner piece in so I can just put the rocker over top when I get to it. I made a patch for the inner panel but found more rust when I cut out for it, so I tacked a off cut bit to fix the spot then trimmed it, then fit it in. I tacked in my patch panel a little at a time closing and opening the door to make sure things lined up not just for gap but also to sit flush with the surface of the door. After it was welded in and the welds grinded, I covered it with primer then paint. It's good enough to use to go to work, but will have to fill and sand it before I can call it done.

Is that a machine screw as a limiter? If you can unscrew it, maybe you can pull the valve out and clean it to make it function again.

Are you going to put a raised floor down, with a trap door for fuel filling? Maybe your prop bar could be mounted on it. It would be better for when your hauling things in the back.

I have a 110v welder and use .023 wire and can weld 22 gauge steel with it, the way to make it work is with short hot tacks, a term borrowed from a You Tuber is stack a tack. You tack weld your piece in place with tack welds about 1" apart then come back and add another tack to the edge of it and work your way around again, pausing to keep it cool and check to keep you surfaces flush, then work around till you've got it all done. It will warp and blow through if you try to lay a bead, it will also blow through if there is rust, ask how I know.

I've been thinking about this for my 510, the strut would need to be attached to something solid like the hood hinge and if attaching to the inner fender it will have to be reinforced to prevent stress cracks in the sheet metal. Ideally the strut should close just slightly past the line between the hinge pivot to strut lower pivot, which will apply a little closing force and when open be at full extension when the hood is at it's proper open height. They come in varying lengths, I was basing mine on the shortest I could find around 8" compressed, about 15" full open. Your probably pretty good at geometry and will be able to work things out, but it's still nice to see what others have come up with first.

I was wondering if anyone has a good method of removing the corrosion from an aluminum cam cover. What I've found online is vapor blasting and such but I'm looking for a way that I can do in my shop without major expense.

Sorry to see your so full of fear you didn't get what I said, you just through in bows and arrows to justify your fear.

While playing around trying to figure out a way to hook up a PCV valve I rigged the vacuum lines from each of the runners and with bits from the old A10 wagon. When I started it ran like shit so I pulled the pieces off and put the hoses back as they were but when I started it again there was a backfire from the rear cylinder. I pulled the cam cover and checked the valve lash, it was a little tight so I readjusted the valve lash so the feeler gauge slid easily. The situation improved but was not eliminated and I'm wondering if the little backfire was there all along and I didn't notice it or it is something that is gradually progressing. My next thought on the PCV system was to try and install ports at the base of the air horns just before the carbs, I don't believe it needs a lot of vacuum. During this I began noticing cracks in the 'v' belt so I went down to NAPA and got a new one when I was inquiring about hinge bushings for the 510 hinges. On another thread the author banged his head on a jack he had mounted on the cars roof rack and I suggested that he use a pool noodle to pad it so it doesn't happen again so I thought it apt that I take my own advise.

It looks to me like the corners on the cylinder are worn causing the cam to not turn enough. I'm not sure how to fix the pot metal cylinder.

Or if there are no guns for anyone, there is no threat and the fear and anxiety don't exist, leaving those who want power without anything to leverage it.

You are really demonstrating your ignorance, obviously you have not followed @EDM620's threads and comments here.

Fit were me, I would still want to fill from the external fuel door, even if it means modifying the van floor to make it work. I'm not fond of smelling gas fumes from spillage because the pump nozzle didn't shut off in time. It gives me a bad headache.

I guess all I've ever had was the cheep aftermarket ones.