New rusty beat up 2 door

[sick620]

Picked up this 2 door 1972. $3000 came most of the way disassembled . No windshield, missing part of grill and missing dash pieces… has fiberglass bre style fenders and has the rear bre flares as well… my first major welding and body work project.. someone replaced the rockers and some of the rear quarter and they are already rusting again and there’s some new rust holes. Floors are solid and a lot of the panels aren’t bad, mostly quarters and rockers needing attention..

 

Im sure I’ll need some advice before long and I need to get all the parts out of it and see if anything else is missing .. came with a good l20b from a 620 and original 4 speed.. 

 

plans right now are to clean up this shell weld any patches it needs and do the body work … prime and paint and I think I will just rivet the rear flares back on… Unless someone has a good how to on bonding and molding flares into the body? 

Are these real American racing wheels ?

Edited August 13, 2022 by sick620

[DARIN 510]

Take the wheel off and look on the back side. Maybe post pics too. It should say American racing on it. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

That looks like my brother's old car. Is there orange paint underneath the blue?

 

I have a couple more pics of it, but here's one a couple years after we painted it. It did have some rust repair done to the rear panel, so if there are birdshit welds inside the trunk, it's probably the same car.

 

 

[sick620]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That looks like my brother's old car. Is there orange paint underneath the blue?

 

I have a couple more pics of it, but here's one a couple years after we painted it. It did have some rust repair done to the rear panel, so if there are birdshit welds inside the trunk, it's probably the same car.

 

 

there’s no orange anywhere that I can see it does look pretty similar though!

[sick620]

 

they do have ribs no ameri racing stamp anywhere… there’s a little round stamp but I can’t tell what’s inside the circle 

[fivetenguy]

6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That looks like my brother's old car. Is there orange paint underneath the blue?

 

I have a couple more pics of it, but here's one a couple years after we painted it. It did have some rust repair done to the rear panel, so if there are birdshit welds inside the trunk, it's probably the same car.

 

 

 

Epic pic. Two of my favorite cars captured in the same picture.

[DARIN 510]

10 hours ago, sick620 said:

 

they do have ribs no ameri racing stamp anywhere… there’s a little round stamp but I can’t tell what’s inside the circle 

The hub matting area looks different from the American racing wheel. Maybe it’s another off brand ? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I was talking with my brother last night, and he said we took it down to bare metal before paint. I didn't remember that, but I'll take his word for it.

 

The wheels - American Racing and Shelby made "libre" wheels, and they are nearly identical, but with different center cap size and ribs vs no ribs in the spokes. Both are legit.

 

The pic of the two 510s and the 911 was taken about 1991. The light blue 510 was mine, the dark blue my brother's, and the 911 was my mom's. The dark blue car was insanely clean, but my Gulf blue car was super fast, with a 2200 making 210hp.

[iceman510]

Those look like ARE from the back but the flange on the center hole looks thin.  I was under the impression that the ARE early wheels were the only ones with the center reinforcing rib.

 

I had four full sets of these at one time.  I think there were three different ARE casting among them, and two of the wheels were non-ARE but looked virtually identical other than that center hole flange width.

Edited August 14, 2022 by iceman510

[sick620]

On 8/13/2022 at 9:13 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That looks like my brother's old car. Is there orange paint underneath the blue?

 

I have a couple more pics of it, but here's one a couple years after we painted it. It did have some rust repair done to the rear panel, so if there are birdshit welds inside the trunk, it's probably the same car.

 

 

Hey we did find some orange on the car … was it stripped all the way down then painted ? The only orange is up around inside of trunk where would the welds be I don’t see them ? I think this might be the car!

Edited August 15, 2022 by sick620

[sick620]

can someone ID this trans I think it’s from a later model hl510 but not sure

[iceman510]

Looks like a standard 510-type 4 speed.  Square bottom pan and old-style shifter linkage.

[banzai510(hainz)]

23 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

2200 making 210hp.

thats impressive

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

18 hours ago, iceman510 said:

Those look like ARE from the back but the flange on the center hole looks thin.  I was under the impression that the ARE early wheels were the only ones with the center reinforcing rib.

 

I had four full sets of these at one time.  I think there were three different ARE casting among them, and two of the wheels were non-ARE but looked virtually identical other than that center hole flange width.

I seem to recall that there were differences in wheels of the same manufacture.

 

13 hours ago, sick620 said:

Hey we did find some orange on the car … was it stripped all the way down then painted ? The only orange is up around inside of trunk where would the welds be I don’t see them ? I think this might be the car!

Memory is starting to come clearer and I do remember stripping it with a D/A sander, which means only the large flat surfaces. Jambs and hard to reach areas would have been scuffed only.

 

If it is his old car, that's really cool. The other blue one in the pic has been crushed. It was literally coming apart at the seams from years of abuse. Knowing what I know now, it would be easy to repair, but back then...nobody cared, because there were so many good cars available.

[yenpit]

We us "PanelBond" 2pt epoxy to "glue" our fiberglass flares on our Z car builds.............way more technologically advanced than other earlier epoxies!  Then we fill in with a light skim of bondo.  One car the transition to the body was smooth, another car the body shop actually created a nice line all around the flare at the body, looked nice!

 

I have LOTS of small parts ie 70-73 dash panels & trim etc.  PM a list if you are searching!

[yenpit]

Also, for nice rust repair/crash patch panels, check out www.kfvintagejdm.com!  The panels out of Canada are JUNK.  The panels out of Australia are good, but expensive to ship.  FutoFab only sells reproduction OE full size panels ie rear 1/4's etc, but his full size panels are nice.  Good luck with the project!

[sick620]

[yenpit]

Solid!  Have you ever had a 510?  If so, great, you should have some experience in putting this puzzle back together!  If not, buy the crappiest most clapped out, most complete 70-73 4dr or Wagon you can find (of course a 2dr, but not many cheap ones these days), to use as a guide, let alone for parts!  The 4dr differences is mostly in the doors, period.  A couple other differences, but nothing else big.  The Wagon is Wagon from doors back, but the front clip, front suspension, dash etc are mostly the same.  The dash & tail wiring harnesses ARE different, but similar.......not interchangable, but a good guide.  Seeing you own/have owned other Datsun's, there are lots of basic engineering similarities to the B210 & evven the trucks, but few parts interchange.

[sick620]

3 hours ago, yenpit said:

Solid!  Have you ever had a 510?  If so, great, you should have some experience in putting this puzzle back together!  If not, buy the crappiest most clapped out, most complete 70-73 4dr or Wagon you can find (of course a 2dr, but not many cheap ones these days), to use as a guide, let alone for parts!  The 4dr differences is mostly in the doors, period.  A couple other differences, but nothing else big.  The Wagon is Wagon from doors back, but the front clip, front suspension, dash etc are mostly the same.  The dash & tail wiring harnesses ARE different, but similar.......not interchangable, but a good guide.  Seeing you own/have owned other Datsun's, there are lots of basic engineering similarities to the B210 & evven the trucks, but few parts interchange.

I do not have much experience putting them together. I’m fortunate that this one has most of its parts so I’m going to try doing it without a second car… I’m sure it’ll be difficult.. been working on all the other models of Datsuns for 10+ years so I’m sure I can do it just might take me longer than some..

[sick620]

pressure washed the car .. crazy how much better it looks.. 

[sick620]

6 hours ago, yenpit said:

We us "PanelBond" 2pt epoxy to "glue" our fiberglass flares on our Z car builds.............way more technologically advanced than other earlier epoxies!  Then we fill in with a light skim of bondo.  One car the transition to the body was smooth, another car the body shop actually created a nice line all around the flare at the body, looked nice!

 

I have LOTS of small parts ie 70-73 dash panels & trim etc.  PM a list if you are searching!

 

5 hours ago, yenpit said:

Also, for nice rust repair/crash patch panels, check out www.kfvintagejdm.com!  The panels out of Canada are JUNK.  The panels out of Australia are good, but expensive to ship.  FutoFab only sells reproduction OE full size panels ie rear 1/4's etc, but his full size panels are nice.  Good luck with the project!

Thank you for this info .. I’ll be in touch about dash parts!

[sick620]

Starting to fill holes.. going to get all the metal work done over the next few weeks so I can strip the car down for filler and primer. 

[yenpit]

1 hour ago, sick620 said:

Starting to fill holes.. going to get all the metal work done over the next few weeks so I can strip the car down for filler and primer. 

 

Suggestion............leave that drip rail stainless trim ON THE CAR, work around it carefully & mask it off!  They are a massive pain to remove & often get bent AND if you remove them & then lay on too much paint on the actual drip rails, they won't fit back on properly & can get beat up/dented while TRYING to get them back on!  Just my 2c!

[sick620]

2 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

Suggestion............leave that drip rail stainless trim ON THE CAR, work around it carefully & mask it off!  They are a massive pain to remove & often get bent AND if you remove them & then lay on too much paint on the actual drip rails, they won't fit back on properly & can get beat up/dented while TRYING to get them back on!  Just my 2c!

Ok good to know 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

And scrape out all that seam sealer.