New rusty beat up 2 door

[sick620]

 

must be 44mm 

[sick620]

can anybody link me somewhere to find new rubber isolators? Or can they be ran straight to the manifold with a gasket? Also do not know where to start about the fact I have no throttle linkage. 

Edited March 19, 2023 by sick620

[datzenmike]

L head ports are at most 1.5" or 38mm.This is the size of the SUs on the L16/18SS and so a good starting point. I have a pair of 2 liter Volvo SUs and they are 40mm I believe. No one runs 850 Hollys on a 2 liter they are just too big, though I guess it would run there is a point of diminishing returns using a too large carburetor. A 2 liter engine would not draw enough to open the secondaries. Likewise on side drafts that are too large. At some point they are a waste. Even 44s might be too large for an L20B. Aren't the SUs for a 240Z 44 or 45mm?

[yenpit]

Pretty sure most if not all dcoe intake manifolds have the same bolt pattern to the carbs, which is Weber (and maybe Dellorto?).  The Mikuni carbs use a SMALLER bolt pattern to the manifold.  If you look closely, you will see the difference..............those thick rubber isolators have "staggered" bolt patterns.  Mike Malone in CA has NEW ones, but get ready to open your wallet!!  If your rubber is good, buy (or make) new gaskets & run 'em!!

[yenpit]

PS Mike Malone can help you with ALL Mikuni needs...............

[yenpit]

.........AND I think you have early 2nd generation Mikuni's!  The earliest said SOLEX, the next said Mikuni SOLEX (like yours), the last said "Mikuni".  I can't remember if there was a Mikuni with a really small Solex off to the side (again, yours are big SOLEX small Mikuni!  Kinda like the Datsun to Nissan transition, over a few years!  Mike Malone can clarify all history!

[sick620]

4 hours ago, yenpit said:

Pretty sure most if not all dcoe intake manifolds have the same bolt pattern to the carbs, which is Weber (and maybe Dellorto?).  The Mikuni carbs use a SMALLER bolt pattern to the manifold.  If you look closely, you will see the difference..............those thick rubber isolators have "staggered" bolt patterns.  Mike Malone in CA has NEW ones, but get ready to open your wallet!!  If your rubber is good, buy (or make) new gaskets & run 'em!!

Yeah I’m realizing parts are crazy spendy for these carbs… ugh 😑.. price I pay for trying to be a cool kid I guess 

[sick620]

4 hours ago, yenpit said:

PS Mike Malone can help you with ALL Mikuni needs...............

How do I get ahold of mike Malone 

[yenpit]

13 hours ago, sick620 said:

How do I get ahold of mike Malone 

 

I just see him on Facebook.  A quick Google search turned up this............. "The West Coast Mikuni expert is Mike Malone of Mikuni Mike's, he's not on this forum, his email is payshnc@comcast.net."

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 3/19/2023 at 7:16 PM, sick620 said:

How do I get ahold of mike Malone 

@topkart11 on Instagram

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 3/17/2023 at 3:51 PM, sick620 said:

 

must be 44mm 

Yep. With modified soft mounts too. There is a guy on Instagram making those again, but Mike should be able to source them for you. There are two varieties of soft mounts - offset and non offset. The offset mounts have studs in one pattern for the manifold, and the stud spacing for the carbs on the front. Those offset mounts are still available, but they aren't as soft and sometimes won't fit the manifold with slotting the mounting holes.

 

The ones in your pic look like were modified in a lathe, but I can't see that close. Cutting them in a lathe makes them softer. Which is a good thing.

[sick620]

Started welding seams to stiffen up the chassis a bit. Learning to weld don’t make fun of me, it think this is a good way to get the hang of it. 
 

[sick620]

Thinking about cutting up this old motor mount into an L bracket for either side do you think this will add any rigidity or a waste of time? 

[DARIN 510]

3 hours ago, sick620 said:

Thinking about cutting up this old motor mount into an L bracket for either side do you think this will add any rigidity or a waste of time? 

I don’t think that will do much as far as reinforcement. You could try to mimic the wagon gusset. But I think it’s honestly very minute of a difference. I’ve seen people use a tube piece in that area and welded to both ends. I think your tack welds won’t do much either. Most of the time I see Troy Ermish do stitch welds. Might be the same end result not sure. 

[sick620]

Yeah I’m sure this is not quite as good as stitch welding but I’ve seen other people just do tac welds on the 510’s so figured it’s good enough, not a race car just trying to have it be a bit stiffer I may try to stitch weld some of it as I go along and get more comfortable with it trying not to blow holes in it… I was thinking gusset may not be beefy enough . here’s an example of someone else just tac welding. 

 

https://frontstreet.media/2016/03/30/build-series-old-school-labs-datsun-510-resto-part-1/

Edited April 25, 2023 by sick620

[yenpit]

17 hours ago, sick620 said:

Thinking about cutting up this old motor mount into an L bracket for either side do you think this will add any rigidity or a waste of time? 

 

The 68-72 510 Wagon had a triangular flat piece of steel welded in that corner, to help stiffen up the chassis for the added weight of the Wagon!  I have seen the same thing done on track cars.  For street driving, it is likely a waste of time, but hey, if ya got a welder..............!!

 

If you want a pic (I have a Wagon parts car with the fenders off), send me your text or email, cuz I don't do pics here on Ratsun!

[sick620]

4 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

The 68-72 510 Wagon had a triangular flat piece of steel welded in that corner, to help stiffen up the chassis for the added weight of the Wagon!  I have seen the same thing done on track cars.  For street driving, it is likely a waste of time, but hey, if ya got a welder..............!!

 

If you want a pic (I have a Wagon parts car with the fenders off), send me your text or email, cuz I don't do pics here on Ratsun!

yeah I’m mostly just doing it because it’s an old car and probably can use a little stiffening, and because I heard that it was up on a rotisserie and was flexing a little before I got it so it can probably use the reinforcement.. and yes I have a welder and need some practice is the biggest reason. If I find some thick flat sheets I will do some triangle brackets better than nothing and I’m sure the more I do the more it will add up and stiffen the car 1% by 1% every little bit helps. 

[sick620]

I really wish I had an actual progress update to share; this thread has been pretty lackluster so far. For the past year, I've been living in an apartment, solely focused on work and getting my finances in order for a home purchase. Finally, we're closing on a house and moving in a couple of months! I'm thrilled to finally have my very own garage to work on my Datsun. I plan on installing a lift and really diving into this project over the summer and winter!

However, I've had a bit of a change of heart regarding this project. While my initial plan was to do extensive bodywork and paint the car a nice color, and maybe even install something like a Honda K24 motor, I've come to realize that this car, being a stripped-down basket case, is already too big of a project for me to tackle anytime soon. I just want to enjoy working on it without it becoming a never-ending project that I keep putting off until I have more time or money.

After looking at countless 510s on Google images and project threads, I've realized that my preference leans more towards "ratsun" cars with a bit of patina or a flatter, more aged-looking paint. In an ideal world, my dream 510 would have original paint that's aged gracefully over time. So, my new plan is to go for a "fauxtina" paint job or a quick rough-up and spray job, maybe using tractor paint. I've attached some photos of cars that inspire me, and I'd love some input on coming up with a plan for something tasteful but with a bit of a rough edge.

As for the engine, while I still think a K24 isn't a bad plan, the process of converting it to rear-wheel drive involves more cost, parts accumulation, and custom fitting than I have the time or energy for right now. Instead, I'm considering finding either a 300ZX with a VG30E and 5-speed for under 3k, or a 2WD Pathfinder or Hardbody that's seen better days, towing it home, and cannibalizing it for its powertrain. This way, I'll have the engine, transmission, wiring, ECU, and all the bolt-on bits I need without the hassle. The VG30 should provide enough power for a fun driving experience, with good torque and fuel injection for daily driving.

At the end of the day, my main goal is just to be able to drive this car and have it look "cool," rather than necessarily being pristine. I want to prevent rust from coming back, and while I plan to make the body somewhat straight, cosmetics seem less important to me. Below are some cars that reflect the aesthetic I'm aiming for, to give you an idea of my plan.

 

 

this being my favorite with the 2 tone bre style scheme. Not sure if I like the bre stripes but otherwise I really would like to do something like this I think. Different colors but you get the idea. Look like an old scca race car that's been aging. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited Monday at 04:18 AM by sick620

[demo243]

12 hours ago, sick620 said:

I really wish I had an actual progress update to share; this thread has been pretty lackluster so far. For the past year, I've been living in an apartment, solely focused on work and getting my finances in order for a home purchase. Finally, we're closing on a house and moving in a couple of months! I'm thrilled to finally have my very own garage to work on my Datsun. I plan on installing a lift and really diving into this project over the summer and winter!

However, I've had a bit of a change of heart regarding this project. While my initial plan was to do extensive bodywork and paint the car a nice color, and maybe even install something like a Honda K24 motor, I've come to realize that this car, being a stripped-down basket case, is already too big of a project for me to tackle anytime soon. I just want to enjoy working on it without it becoming a never-ending project that I keep putting off until I have more time or money.

After looking at countless 510s on Google images and project threads, I've realized that my preference leans more towards "ratsun" cars with a bit of patina or a flatter, more aged-looking paint. In an ideal world, my dream 510 would have original paint that's aged gracefully over time. So, my new plan is to go for a "fauxtina" paint job or a quick rough-up and spray job, maybe using tractor paint. I've attached some photos of cars that inspire me, and I'd love some input on coming up with a plan for something tasteful but with a bit of a rough edge.

As for the engine, while I still think a K24 isn't a bad plan, the process of converting it to rear-wheel drive involves more cost, parts accumulation, and custom fitting than I have the time or energy for right now. Instead, I'm considering finding either a 300ZX with a VG30E and 5-speed for under 3k, or a 2WD Pathfinder or Hardbody that's seen better days, towing it home, and cannibalizing it for its powertrain. This way, I'll have the engine, transmission, wiring, ECU, and all the bolt-on bits I need without the hassle. The VG30 should provide enough power for a fun driving experience, with good torque and fuel injection for daily driving.

At the end of the day, my main goal is just to be able to drive this car and have it look "cool," rather than necessarily being pristine. I want to prevent rust from coming back, and while I plan to make the body somewhat straight, cosmetics seem less important to me. Below are some cars that reflect the aesthetic I'm aiming for, to give you an idea of my plan.

 

 

this being my favorite with the 2 tone bre style scheme. Not sure if I like the bre stripes but otherwise I really would like to do something like this I think. Different colors but you get the idea. Look like an old scca race car that's been aging. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That last teal and tan car is one of my favorites! 
 

Hard bodies / frontiers are KA engines ? If I recall the one downfall of the truck engines is that the wiring harness is incorporated into the body harness… just makes it tougher to swap over. They do have the advantage of running a distributor though if you intend to carb it. I love the KA in my 510- great street engine with lots of torque down low. But KAs are getting harder and more expensive to find.

 

Id really love to do a CA18DET swap… its an old engine but kinda like a mini RB and cheaper than SRs.

 

A couple people have talked about the QR25 it’s kind of an interesting idea- although kind of an ugly engine in my opinion… 

 

 

 

Edited Monday at 04:25 PM by demo243