New Guy Here With an Old 320

[Kev250R]

Not much progress to report, last week was my long week at work (70 hours) so other then installing a clamp-on mirror to the driver's-side drip rail (which I already hate) and playing around with the the electrical in an effort to get the brake lights working, I didn't do much on my 320.

 

This week I should get the radiator back from being re-cored then I plan-on re-installing which should allow me to get the 320 off my lift and out of my garage so I can road test and see if the newly-refreshed radiator solved my running hot issue and I can see if tightening the gear linkages was the fix to reverse.

 

I also picked-up some POR15 and metal prep spray so I can help preserve the metal on my 320, however that may wait until the summer when it's too hot here to do much heavy work.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

POR-15 is a go-to name because of marketing and it's expensive. There are many other suitable rust preventatives for less money.

[jetattblue]

30 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

POR-15 is a go-to name because of marketing and it's expensive. There are many other suitable rust preventatives for less money.

What do you recommend? I'm about to start work on my 320's frame and would be really interested in your thoughts.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Honestly, if you can stomach a body off situation, have the frame blasted. It costs only a few hundred bucks, then you can coat it with quality primer and paint of your choice. My blaster can blast and powder coat a frame with zinc rich powder for about $600.

 

But, I get if you're not interested in that route.

 

The idea is to either encapsulate the rust or remove it completely. With some basic prep, a wire cup brush on a grinder, some roloc abrasive pads and maybe even a needle scaler (which you can get at Harbor Freight for $50), followed by a wash with some type of metal etch (I use Krud Kutter), you can get rid of most rust, or at least make it ready to accept paint. If you eliminate the oxygen, the rust stops in its tracks.

 

For rattle can jobs, I use SEM self etching primer ($25 per can here in CA, but in NV, it's $16). For the top coat on a chassis, any good engine paint should be used because of the high ceramic content which is impervious to chemicals. I use Dupli-Color brand, and usually low gloss black, which is about 15% gloss. If you prefer a more glossy finish, the semi gloss works out to about 30% gloss.

[jagman]

I have used Zero-Rust primer for frames and subassemblies with good results.  You just wire brush the scale off.  It can be brushed or sprayed and does't crack.  Por-15 doesn't like to be painted over if you want colors other than black or gray.   

[Kev250R]

22 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

POR-15 is a go-to name because of marketing and it's expensive. There are many other suitable rust preventatives for less money.

You're not wrong it is expensive, however I used it previously on an old Falcon I used to have and it worked pretty well, which is why I went with it for my 320.  POR-15 Doesn't like to be left sitting around once it's been opened so this time I bought a six-pack of small (4oz) cans which should be enough to cover what I need to right now and if there is any left over (doubtful) it should keep better then if I tried to re-seal a gallon can.  For what I'm doing with my 320 I will probably pull the bed to save me the hassle of having to apply it while laying under the truck but I'm not planning on pulling the cab off the frame so blasting isn't an option at this time.  Like you said, it's all about encapsulating the rust to prevent it from spreading.  Thankfully my 320 has minimal rust so I'm trying to keep it that way.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You're in SoCal, so how bad can the rust be? If it's just filmy surface rust, leave it alone, in the name of patina.

[Kev250R]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You're in SoCal, so how bad can the rust be? If it's just filmy surface rust, leave it alone, in the name of patina.

My 320 lived most of it's life in Montana, then Kansas for a few years; I had it shipped to me from Kansas and despite what the truck may think, it's (eventually) going to spend most of it's time outdoors, thus my desire to apply POR-15 to the exposed parts of the frame.  I'm lucky though, despite living most of it's life in cold country, the actual rust repair I need to make is very minimal.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It probably sat for most of its life, so life on salty roads was kept to a minimum.

[Kev250R]

18 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

It probably sat for most of its life, so life on salty roads was kept to a minimum.

Maybe so, I'm actually trying to learn more of the trucks history from the guy I bought it from.  It sounds like it was a ranch truck in Montana for at least part (if not most) of it's life so I doubt it ever saw much salt, which helped to save it for sure!

[Kev250R]

So I finally got my rebuilt radiator back from the radiator shop (Tom's Radiator Shop in Orange, CA).  Randy down there did a great job, the Radiator looks good.  It's been upgraded to a three-row and he spent some time banging-out a lot of dents from the top and bottom tanks.  Even stayed late so I could pick it up after I stayed later at work then I expected which was cool and meant I could re-install it last night which was a huge help.

 

I only took one pic before I installed it.  I didn't have a lot of time to work on the truck last night but was focused on getting the radiator re-installed, filled and bled.  Once I did that I set the truck back on the ground, cleaned all the crap I've been setting in the bed out and surprisingly it fired right up!  I need to move it out of my garage for a while so later today I'll get to do a quick road test to see how it runs with the newly re-built Radiator and to see if my tightening all the gear linkages a couple of weeks ago solved my problem with Reverse.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks great.

[iceman510]

Nice.  The addition of the new cap neck will be quite beneficial.

 

[320 Newb]

Very nice

 

[difrangia]

Very nice; that should last another 60 years !! Only way to improve that is to add a little fan guard on the top.

 

What's major radiator surgery like that run ($$) now-a-days ??

Edited March 25, 2022 by difrangia

[Kev250R]

Thanks guys, I took the 320 for a quick drive around the block yesterday (I still don't have any working lights and I was limited on time so a longer drive will have to wait) but it ran for about 10 minutes and stayed nice and cool.  Also Reverse is back!  I used it a couple of times moving it from my garage and eventually over to it's new spot next to my house and it engaged smoothly, didn't grind and stayed in gear.  All things it didn't do before I tightened the linkages.

[Kev250R]

On 3/25/2022 at 1:01 PM, difrangia said:

Very nice; that should last another 60 years !! Only way to improve that is to add a little fan guard on the top.

 

What's major radiator surgery like that run ($$) now-a-days ??

That's a good idea about a fan guard.  I've thought about adding a fan shroud as well but I'm going to wait and see if one is needed first.

 

It was $500 to have the Radiator re-cored.  The shop I went to is one of the last in my area to do such work and they seem to be busy!  When I went to pick my finished Radiator up there were three or four others which were waiting to be repaired or rebuilt. 

[difrangia]

53 minutes ago, Kev250R said:

That's a good idea about a fan guard.  I've thought about adding a fan shroud as well but I'm going to wait and see if one is needed first.

 

It was $500 to have the Radiator re-cored.  The shop I went to is one of the last in my area to do such work and they seem to be busy!  When I went to pick my finished Radiator up there were three or four others which were waiting to be repaired or rebuilt. 

 

Yup, most cars now-a-days have aluminum radiators with plastic tanks, as for what I've seen for a number of years. Rebuilding the old brass radiators is one of those ancient crafts, like horse shoeing, that have almost disappeared due to lack-of-need. On the fan guard, I've thought a number of times about adding one on our 320. That radiator tank looks like a good place for gawkers to put a hand and brace themselves when leaning over to look at the little engine in there. If the engine is running, they could come away with a very painful lesson and you've got a 'Clean up on aisle 3' situation. I've had to warn a few people in the past.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Adding a whole fan shroud won't be easy, since there's no flange to bolt it to. Some brackets could be fabbed up to bolt the shroud to. Summit Racing sells generic fan shroud kits, but they require welding. You could probably fit one from a 1200 or B210. Some other car/truck with a similar size radiator core.

[Kev250R]

5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Adding a whole fan shroud won't be easy, since there's no flange to bolt it to. Some brackets could be fabbed up to bolt the shroud to. Summit Racing sells generic fan shroud kits, but they require welding. You could probably fit one from a 1200 or B210. Some other car/truck with a similar size radiator core.

I've noticed that.  In the past I've had good luck with using a generic one which attaches with a sort of zip tie which passes-through the fins of the radiator and attaches on the other side.

 

For now though I'm going to run the stock fan, no shroud.  I ran my 320 for probably 30 minutes last night, mostly idling with a few laps around my neighborhood and it seemed to stay nice and cool.  Real-world driving will be the real test, but thanks to a bum Generator and some ignition issues I'm a couple of weeks away from that.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Other guys have used BMC generators with success. You can buy a new one at Moss or Mini Mania for less than a couple hundred bucks. Or you can have your rebuilt. I know there's a rebuilder in the LA/Long Beach area, because I looked one up for another guy a while back and he was happy with their work. I think it was right off the 710.

 

[Kev250R]

On 3/30/2022 at 9:32 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Other guys have used BMC generators with success. You can buy a new one at Moss or Mini Mania for less than a couple hundred bucks. Or you can have your rebuilt. I know there's a rebuilder in the LA/Long Beach area, because I looked one up for another guy a while back and he was happy with their work. I think it was right off the 710.

 

Thanks for the suggestion to go with a new unit from Moss, if I can find one which is similar to the one I have now I will probably go that route, then have my existing Generator rebuilt locally to keep as a spare.  It looks like there in Santa Ana which is near where I live.

[Kev250R]

Hey guys, back to the 320! 

 

I got distracted with some other projects so my 320 spent the past couple of months parked next to my house with a non-functioning Distributor.  A buddy came by and together we rebuilt the Distributor and properly timed the engine and it now starts, runs and drives well!

 

However I still have no lights (brake, tail, turn, headlights).  My truck is positive ground, appears to have most of it's original wiring, most of which is in good condition however while tracing-power with a Meter it seems this Relay (if that's what it is) is bad (see pic)

 

 

I have 12VDC at the black wire on the right all the time, whether the Ignition is on or off and regardless of whether or not the engine is running.  That wire runs to the Starter.  Conversely I never have power on the other black wire (goes to the negative post on the battery) nor do I have power on the smaller, ~16 Gauge wire at the front of this Relay.

 

My question is, does it sound like this Relay is bad?  If so where would I find a comparable replacement?  Doesn't have to be original.  Thanks in advance for any help!

Edited June 14, 2022 by Kev250R

[thisismatt]

One side goes to the starter/Battery (+), and the other side goes to the Battery (-)?  Doesn't sound like you should want to make that relay work 😅

[wayno]

3 hours ago, Kev250R said:

Hey guys, back to the 320! 

 

I got distracted with some other projects so my 320 spent the past couple of months parked next to my house with a non-functioning Distributor.  A buddy came by and together we rebuilt the Distributor and properly timed the engine and it now starts, runs and drives well!

 

However I still have no lights (brake, tail, turn, headlights).  My truck is positive ground, appears to have most of it's original wiring, most of which is in good condition however while tracing-power with a Meter it seems this Relay (if that's what it is) is bad (see pic)

 

 

I have 12VDC at the black wire on the right all the time, whether the Ignition is on or off and regardless of whether or not the engine is running.  That wire runs to the Starter.  Conversely I never have power on the other black wire (goes to the negative post on the battery) nor do I have power on the smaller, ~16 Gauge wire at the front of this Relay.

 

My question is, does it sound like this Relay is bad?  If so where would I find a comparable replacement?  Doesn't have to be original.  Thanks in advance for any help!

 

OK, that is the starter relay, since it is positive ground it is wired properly, the reason you have 12 volts on the starter side is because it is positive ground and it only needs to show power to both black wires to make the starter turn, on a negative ground vehicle the starter black wire would not ever show power unless it was being turned over.

Your issue is somewhere else, it may be the bights switch on the floor, it may be the light switch itself, I have had or have both these issues.

When the key is turned on do all the fuses show power on both sides of the fuse?