ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) Hello people of Ratsun! Yesterday I picked up a 1986 720 King Cab 4x4 manual transmission. I've been searching hard for the last 4 years for a smaller high clearance 4x4 with a manual transmission. Honestly, I wasn't even aware of these trucks until yesterday. Crazy. I'm looking forward to learning a lot from everyones collective experience and knowledge. So, thanks in advance. I'm hoping to contribute myself, once I get up to speed. My name is Graham. Here's what I know so far... Truck has 185,000 miles on the odometer. Looks like one of the prior owners gave a damn about it because when I went to change transmission, transfer case oil (GL-4 only, thanks y'all! I chose Sta-Lube 85w90 because Napa had it in gallons. Will try MT90 if the sta-lube is too tough in the winter) and the front/rear diff oils (GL-5, I'm using Motul Gear 300) Only the transmission and rear diff oils were dirty, and they weren't bad. I'm using Rotella t6 5w40, only because it's what I use in my Subaru & '90 Dr650. I had it on hand. Sounds like it's not a bad choice. It seems like the truck wanted a hair over 4 liters. So far I've found 2 grease fittings, not exactly on the driveshaft, but in the driveline. I don't know the names for those little areas but I hit 'em with the grease gun. Everything seems to work well except for the parking brake. I've never had a vehicle with drum brakes. I attempted to adjust the parking brake via the rear drum adjuster, but I don't think I turned them far enough? How far is too far... It has a Weber carb on it. The power steering seems to be ok mostly, but it is hard to turn the wheel at times. It has custom seats in it. Maybe from a Rodeo? I really don't know, but they are comfortable and sit higher than the images I see of factory seats. This truck is slow. I wish I had some kind of a benchmark, but it seems like the truck is slower than it should be. Running it in 4-lo is a riot. I'm so excited to have this truck as my hunting rig. My next little projects: I've read something about intentionally overfilling the transmission through the shifter. I did not do this, I just filled until it spilled out of the fill hole, like I've done in every other set up like this before. What are y'alls thoughts on this? Should I be checking head bot torque and re-torquing? 60 ft-lbs seems to be the #? Check valve clearance (.012, right?) Find a FSM Compression test Leak down test Driver side door makes a lot of racket when the window is down. Seems like I could take off the door panel and put some moleskin type felt stuff somewhere in there. Other grease ports? Replace spark plugs (Recommendation?) Replace fuel filters (2nd one is under the fuel pump, right?) I wanted to post some pictures, but I see this site requires photo links instead of hosting the images. In time, I'll get to that. Looking forward to hearing from y'all. Cheers, Graham Model: KNLY720TUFI51 Color Trim: 013 6 Engine: Z24(s) 2389 Trans Axle: FS5W71B CA41 Plant: W Edited July 30, 2021 by ilikefunkymusic added a comment about power steering 4 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Welcome. You just need a few posts and then you will be able to attach pics. Looking forward to seeing your new 4x4 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Wow man, that '78 is BAD! 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Never overfill. It just gets foamy and blows out the plastic vent on top. You did the right thing. Only ever use NGK plugs BPR5ES exhaust side and BPR6ES on the intake. T6 is synthetic isn't it? Wait for it to start leaking and if it does next change replace with 10w30 T4. I wouldn't run anything with a 5 in it, or a synthetic. Raise the rear wheels and make sure they turn freely. The rear brakes are self adjusting. If dragging it will over heat the linings and you won't notice this. The parking brake adjustment is almost under the back of the cab on the driver's side cable. It's correct when the lever pulls out three clicks to engage. The grease nipples are on front and rear slip shafts. There may be some on the universal joints. Power steering. Check the fluid level and the belt tension. Push on the belt half way between the pump and the idler pulley with your thumb. It should deflect 1/2-3/4" or the width of the belt. 3 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Thanks Mike! I'll pick up those NGKs, adjust the brake at mentioned spot, and inspect the power steering. The truck came with a Haynes service manual. First one I've looked through, and I'm not impressed. What are those little adjusters on the insides of the rear drums, hiding behind rubber plugs? I turned each one probably 10 clicks. Seems like they only want to move in one direction too. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Again lift each wheel and make sure you didn't tighten them too much. The rear brakes don't need adjusting. The 720 has had automatic adjusters since December '81. Those are the manual adjusters for when the shoes are replaced. Once set, the truck adjusts them as you drive. 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Thanks for the knowledge Mike. And thanks to you, I have a working parking brake again. Hell yeah! 1 Quote Link to comment
MaddieCycle Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Great truck, I have the same model and year, for about 4 years now. It's been a journey but you seem on the right track. When these trucks are dialed in they are amazing. Personally I gave the head re-torque a go and did not like the feel of the bolts coming loose or tight. I had a hunch that I was close to snapping one. I did a couple and then stopped. Rather wait for the head gasket to blow. I did a full front end steering and suspension refresh except for the control arm bushings. Rides like a new truck. Needs a steering box. A/C blows cold. Had the transmission rebuilt. All 4 cylinders show factor spec compression. Does 90. Enjoy! 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Heck yeah Maddie. I was just under the front end this morning and found some additional grease ports (5 pax side, 3 driver side), as well as took note of the condition of a lot of the grease holding boots and bushings. It's looking pretty sad under there. I've got a FSM on the way from eBay... Curious if you could help a brother out with your parts source and ideally, some of the part numbers? Understand if you don't feel like taking the time; I'll eventually look it all up. Just hoping I could piggyback on your work? Cheers! 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 I'm gonna owe so many people so many beers once this is all said and done. Hah! 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the linkage. It doesn't take much play in any component to really get things out of whack. Check your front tires for unusual wear patterns. 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Great idea BW. I hadn't thought about that, and I have a feeling I'm gonna learn something new about the condition of things after doing that too. 1 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 You mentioned fuel filters. Yes there is one, basically, inside the fuel pump. Get the filter AND the rubber gasket from Nissan. You will probably have to take the pump off the truck to get it opened up to replace that filter. I thought I was going to break mine when I replaced it for the first time. 2 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Good to know, thanks NC. I was able to find Wix branded in-line fuel filters. I had to place an order for the fuel pump fuel filter. I ordered it from partsfornissans.com. I'll have to double back for that rubber gasket. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 We were discussing oil. Forgot to say NEVER use fram filters. Get a WIX or NAPA gold. Always change the filter with the oil. 4 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Here this might help. 1 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 Thanks Mike, the truck came with a spare oil filter that I used and it happened to be Wix. Picked up 3 more at O'Reilly today when I got the 8 spark plugs and the in line fuel filter. The plugs don't look too rough but look like a swap would be beneficial anyhow. The inline fuel filter wasn't oem, so somebody along the way had changed it at least once. Just waiting on the fuel pump fuel filters to ship now. Charlie, coming in clutch with the diagram. Wow, yeah both gaskets must have been original. Really appreciate the recommendation to swap those out. 1 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted August 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 Anyone here ever have the experience where it's difficult to turn right, and only right, intermittently? Really not sure how to pick that apart. 1 Quote Link to comment
MaddieCycle Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 On 7/30/2021 at 7:08 AM, ilikefunkymusic said: Curious if you could help a brother out with your parts source and ideally, some of the part numbers? Understand if you don't feel like taking the time; I'll eventually look it all up. Just hoping I could piggyback on your work? Cheers! Hello - got most of the parts from Rock Auto, one piece from Amazon, and then I may have gotten a couple of other things from Napa that I can't remember. I used the higher tier "problem solver" line from Moog and generally went with the Made-in-Japan stuff. Just did the steering box today which I bought at Napa as a reman and also the rag joint which I got from O'Reilly as a generic. Other than the UCA and LCA bushings which I just left in place, entire front end suspension and steering is all new and it's really nice. 2 Quote Link to comment
MaddieCycle Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Oh and if your strut rod bushing mounting holes on the frame are rounded out, get that repaired. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 I've done the repair MaddieCycle mentions a couple of times. Easiest is to do a little grinding until one of your old strut rod washers can be welded on to the truck, then replace the strut rod bushings and reassemble. Or have a shop doing the same thing. These trucks were never fast, even new. Going a speed is simply a matter of mechanical gearing and tire size. Getting to that speed is a whole different ball game, and even in good shape, these trucks will take their sweet time. If your experience with 4 cylinder vehicles is only stuff newer than 1990 or even later, then the truck might be doing fine, just not a kind of fine you are familiar with. 3 Quote Link to comment
MaddieCycle Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 I found the actual part for the beefier OEM washer and had that welded on. 1 Quote Link to comment
ilikefunkymusic Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Wow, thanks Maddie! I'll definitely be referencing your post when I get to doing the work. 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.