Jump to content

MaddieCycle

Members
  • Posts

    160
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MaddieCycle

  1. My '86 was made in April of 1985. I have had multiple issues with getting parts for an '86 but it turns out the '85 was what I needed. Brake parts, air cleaner, and I think maybe the high pressure PS line too, can't remember it's been a while. I always search for both years and if the parts differ, try to figure out which is the right one. I am assuming my truck sat somewhere for a few months before being shipped off for sale and by then they had rolled out the '86 MY.
  2. Well, I would imagine if there is some kind of short in the mechanical flasher, it might cause a drain. In either case, I went back to the local alternator shop, who still had my original core. These were the people who were somewhat less than friendly to work with and wanted weeks to do the repair. I spoke to a different person there who told me the other guy I'd spoken to was a bit of a jerk. They are going to have mine rebuilt by next week. I'll put that in, and then get a warranty replacement from NAPA, and then just leave that in the truck as a backup should I have any future alternator adventures. Too bad people have become so used to cheap crap in this country. Sadly they are often the same ones who grumble that manufacturing jobs have been moved overseas. See also: the iron triangle.
  3. Yeah that might be it. I'll take a look. But bigger fish to fry is that this Napa reman is a piece of crap. I can't get more than 13.4 volts out of it, and that's with nothing on. Battery shows 12.5 volts with truck off so that seems fine, and it turns the starter nice and strong. Turn on the wipers, heater, headlights, and turn signals, and the system voltage is about 12.9. Did the usual tests for voltage between the battery and alternator and that all checks out. So it's back to Napa for me. Stoffgren, who do you use in Auburn? I pass through there a couple times a month on my way to my land in Grass Valley.
  4. People don't want to pay for things so the market demands cheap crap made in China. Sad state of affairs. It must be the turn signal flasher that sucks up power because indeed, the wiring besides that is all the same. Strangely, it does NOT do this when my hazards are on!
  5. I have a leak too. Still trying to isolate where it is leaking from. What is involved in replacing seals? How many are there?
  6. Strange thing has begun - voltage dips down just below 12 when using my turn signals, in rhythm with the blinking. Does not happen with hazards, flashing beams, fan on high etc.. Assuming there is a short in the turn signal flasher module (these trucks have 2 flasher modules, one for hazards one for turns). But I am worried that there is more to the story, including the possibility that this NAPA reman alternator is junk.
  7. Boxing in the bumper looks like it is the exact fix, what a great idea. That's exactly where all of the flex is on mine. And nice idea with the pipe wrench! Now to decide if my home Lincoln Electric welder is the right tool to do this right or bring it to a pro for this thick steel.
  8. Hello. I got one of those truck bed extenders that mounts in a receiver hitch, for carrying 16ft lumber etc.... Bolted on a receiver hitch to the step bumper and realized why these trucks have a 150lb tongue wt limit. With the extender more than a foot out, I can see the bumper bending if I put just some mild weight on it. Looking under the truck, I see several ways that I could beef things up by somehow tying into the frame one way or another, by bolting-on or welding-on some additional supports or brackets. This won't be for towing, just occasional hauling of long boards, pipes, roof panels etc.... Has anyone done such a thing?
  9. Pulled it back out and saw this bushing in one of the ears was inserted a little janky, sticking out a little on both sides. I ground down the inside face of the ear/bushing so it was smooth, 2 minutes later the whole thing was bolted in the truck no problem. I want the 2 darn hours of my life back that I spent trying to prybar this thing in place!
  10. Actually I couldn't even get the ears over the block mount at first. I had to use a wood block and mallet to coax it into place. Some might be the paint, maybe I put it further out of alignment with the wood block and mallet.
  11. I actually think that the ears are slightly twisted, so that the bolt is not hitting the threads straight-on. Was thinking of just drilling out the ear to make it a little more forgiving for the bolt to get in, and then cinching both sides down. This is a beefy mount and I can't imagine drilling it out a couple of mm will weaken it.
  12. Could be. I saw somewhere else on here someone had to grind the ears a little bit. I am going to wire wheel off the paint and see if I can line it up.
  13. It goes on, I just can't get both ears to line up exactly so I can screw both bolts in at the same time. The ears are very tight on the mount.
  14. Yes correct. The ears. And good point about not knowing the innards.
  15. Got a reman from NAPA for $85, it is a Hitachi, so that is good news. I will keep my Hitachi core as well. Now I am having a miserable time getting the lower bracket lined up. I can not get it lined up to get both bolts in line for the holes. I can get it lined up for either side but not both. I am thinking either I need to take it off and grind down some of the new paint the reman put on the mounting on the alternator, or buy a longer M10 bolt and grind down a CM at the end to use as a guide to slide the bolt into the threads. I spent 2 hours today trying to line this up using all sorts of leverage and pry bars and I am at wits end.
  16. Yes I will add the core to my growing core pile from this truck. Just bought the Napa one. Supposedly is reman Hitachi. I'll see what's stamped on the case when I pick it up.
  17. Well I just spoke to the "reputable" alternator shop and they are giving me a hard time about the rebuild, takes too long, blah blah blah. They originally told me 2 days now telling me 2 weeks and when I expressed frustration that I wish I'd known that in advance so I could have moved my truck somewhere it can be parked longer term, he told me it was my fault for wanting the rebuild vs just putting their Chinese replacement in. So I am done with these clowns and there are no other local rebuilders, they all just replace. So I am going to get a NAPA reman for $75 and then also when I have time in the next few months will rebuild my OEM Hitachi and either swap it then or just carry it around in the truck like I do with a fuel pump.
  18. Welp, the local rebuilder wants $250 to repair, and 2 weeks. They want to sell me a Chinese new replacement for $189 which they stand behind. It is a reputable shop. The question is: Do I have them try to rebuild mine, do I buy their "reliable" Chinese part for big $, or do I get a NAPA reman for $100?
  19. It is a very fussy and tight fit. Hardware store o-rings did not fit - too thick. I just screwed the cover back on and sealed the seam with Lexel. We'll see how it holds.
  20. Well I checked all of this and everything else looks fine, so it is probably just a dead alternator. I pulled it and took it to a reputable local rebuilder. We shall see.
  21. It actually looks like it is triangular in cross section. 19mm diameter x 1.25mm thickness. I'll see what I can scrape up, otherwise I'll break out the RTV.
  22. Indeed. Was just wondering if someone knew exact size or part number so I could just order rather than go rummage through 3 hardware stores before finding one with it in stock 😉
  23. Hello. Has anyone sourced a new o-ring for the windshield washer pump on the bottom cover? I think these are the same for all years and models, I got this pump from a salvage yard and don't remember the year or engine it came off.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.