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Everything posted by ilikefunkymusic

  1. Awesome. So, with a socket extension down the spark plug hole... TDC occurs after the intake valve has opened and shut, and the piston tops out right? suck, squeeze, bang, blow
  2. With that out of the way, what is the best way to rotate the crank?
  3. Holy shit you guys. Sorry for the colossal waste of time here. Wanted to admit my fault before deleting this thread. Was indeed looking at the diesel engine info... Stupid mistake
  4. I actually called out one of your threads as example one in my post. What you promote is not in alignment with the FSM... FSM disagrees and says both on #1, exhaust on #2, intake on #3 then progress So where did you get your procedure?
  5. I've noticed that the valve lash procedure info that is commonly supplied here on the forum differs from what my 1986 FSM says. Looking to understand why, before I go and do this. Forum says: example 1, example 2 Cyl 1 at TDC set 1, 2, 4, 6 Cyl 4 at TDC set 3, 5, 7, 8 My understanding of the cylinder to valve relationship: || Cyl 1 || Cyl 2 || Cyl 3 || Cyl 4 || intake exhaust exhaust intake intake exhaust exhaust intake || 1 | 2 || 3 | 4 || 5 | 6 || 7 | 8 || 1986 FSM says: Cyl 1 at TDC set 1, 2, 3, 5 Cyl 4 at TDC set 4, 6, 7, 8
  6. ilikefunkymusic


    A few things here. I'm a total greenhorn on working on carbs. Sorry in advance... To get the truck to start, you have to crank it for 4-6 seconds. Is this normal? My efi subaru turns right over in 1 maybe 2 cycles. What do I look into to resolve this if it's not normal. Truck has a weber carb. How do you operate the choke? I have pushed the gas pedal to the floor and released it, but there is no change in starting behavior. Only tried when cold out or at high altitude (10,000 ft). What is the high rev or fast start thing? When I get my truck started at altitude or in the cold it has to crank for 10 seconds, then I have to manually feed it extra for about a minute - else she wont stay on.
  7. Would be epic, and greatly appreciated if you took the time to post pics of the work here on this thread. This project is also on my list
  8. Just saw this and your pm, gonna shoot ya a text.
  9. What I need to do is get a cheap impact socket for the receiving end, and grind away material on it to match the rake of the yoke.
  10. Well I did remove all the clips before attempting to press anything. Been using a hefty C shape ball joint press, not much different than a vise, but I'll have a go
  11. Wow I wish these were that easy. The one side I did press required a hefty amount of force before you heard the first pop of the release. Tried with yoke in vise, drift punch on the u joint cap and hammering but no movement. Appreciate the time and effort here fellas
  12. Stinky thanks for the hot tip! Even if I don't wind up needing shafts, there are a couple of odd things I'll reach out and see if they have (driver side window regulator for example) Cheers!
  13. Hot damn all of a sudden I see I'm able to post pictures. I'll update my intro thread with pics of the truck but for now here is what I have been trying to describe. How do you get a press to set level on something that isnt?
  14. I'm not explaining this correctly. The yokes hold the u joints just fine and nothing is damaged. The metal of the yokes, on the outside... the portion that holds each cap of the u joint. Specifically where the press will rest... half of that lip is at one height, and it tapers up. Go look at your yokes man. This is how it was produced. They are not flat areas... If I could post a picture directly it would help explain
  15. No damage that I can tell, I believe that I stopped before things really got out of hand. Still begs the question... How are these joints pressed out if each side of the yokes are manufactured not parallel? I'm planning to take both shafts to a driveline shop here tomorrow and have them check balance, and finish the job. Unfortunately.
  16. Well I undertook the u joint replacement for both shafts today because I suspect they are the reason I have been experiencing vibrations. I started the angle grinder this afternoon to cut them out, but realized that I would still need to press the replacements in, so I stopped.
  17. Hey y'all, I pulled my rear driveshaft and the main prop shaft today and found that the sides of the yokes are not parallel. Trying to operate a ball joint press on opposing sides that are shaped like this " \ / " instead of this " | | " Is seemingly impossible. I pressed out one side on one, and then realized that it either bent the u joint, or worse, one of the receiving ends on the yoke. Tips or tricks here? I tried fabricobbling a spacer out of two of the clips to fill the void, but could not get it to work out. Cheers
  18. Wow, thanks Maddie! I'll definitely be referencing your post when I get to doing the work.
  19. Wish I knew what a healthy z24 felt like. This thing won't climb mild to medium extended grades at highway speeds. I wind up at 45-50mph frequently on the interstate. Anyhow... I have a lot of reading to do regarding the rebuild. Gonna run the thing as is until i've got the knowledge and the dough. I don't want to go crazy on a rebuild. Just do it right and maybe boost the compression slightly over the standard. So minimum kit would be? Bore 1mm over? new pistons (ka direct swap?) and rings new main bearings new rod bearings
  20. This thread is veering into rebuild territory now... Could I get away with simply replacing the piston rings to rebuild compression? Or is the right way to go about this to pull the engine and go through it completely
  21. Damn, my factory service manual arrived in the mail today and sure enough on the back cover is the compression pressure: Standard is 171 PSI Minimum is 128 PSI Any chance that if the valves were slightly out of spec that it could boost compression a bit after an adjustment?
  22. Always appreciate the thorough replies Mike. I was finishing up my test as you were typing that. I wound up disconnecting the positive wires to the coils (whatever the two things are called upstream of the distributor) Ran the test from the exhaust side, because it sure as hell is a lot easier to access those plugs. I'm at 4,800 feet Engine warmed up No throttle applied during testing (I forgot) Dunno cylinder #s so I'll list em as front (1) to back (4) 1: 133/134 2: 137/138 3: 136/137 4: 116/117 added a shot of oil and got 128
  23. Need to "turn off" fuel delivery before conducting this test, as I understand it. No fuse cover on my truck, and not seeing a fuel related fuse listed where i've done my reading. Do I have to dive in and unplug the pump relay on the pax side? I've read that it's best to test on the exhaust plug holes. Just looking for guidance. This is the first time I'll have done a Comp test, ever. Cheers
  24. And so I keep learning. May as well do it right and once.
  25. Main prop shaft u joint has play on the transmission side. Hopefully this is the sole contributor.
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