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About MaddieCycle

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Cars
    1986 720 Pickup 4x4, 2005 Jetta GLS Wagon running biodiesel

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  1. Lolz these are are KYB Monomaxes, I got them at Rock Auto for 50 bucks a piece, they are pretty good shocks. The ones I took out were totally shot and probably the original ones. I was able to compress them by hand and there was zero rebound, they just stayed compressed.
  2. I installed Monomax shocks. With the LCA in the lowest possible position (torsion bar disconnected), the shock was too long to fit between the upper and lower shock mounts. I used a large clamp to compress the shock, then used a series of zip ties to hold it in compression, fit it into position and fastened the lower bolt, and then cut the zip ties and the shock expanded right up into the upper mounting hole.
  3. Just found this awesome resource: https://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-thread-for-720-s-t474226.html
  4. I have a broken wheel stud on the front wheel of my '86 KC 4x4. I am doing suspension work anyway so I'll be removing all of the ball joints and steering linkage. Anyone have a step-by-step guide on removing the rotor so I can replace the broken wheel stud? I have the FSM, Chilton's, and Haynes, all of them have rather dodgy info on this.
  5. Everything is bolted up and done. A couple of other observations: The upper ball joint needed to be pressed out by a machine shop. The underside of the upper control arm is an irregular shape and there was nowhere for the portable ball joint press to clamp down on. It took them 10 minutes and cost me $35 so no harm done. Putting the torsion rod back in was a little bit of a pain, even with a full clean-out and regrease of the splines, it did not fully slide in easily. I had to worry it forward about 1/2" to allow the adjuster arm to fit properly on the frame boss. To do this, I set up two jack stands along the length of the rod to support it and catch it in case it fell out. Then I just whacked on the adjuster arm end with a mallet until I got it in. This was a nervewracking experience because I was convinced I was going to cross-thread the splines and render my entire truck useless, since replacement torsion rods for an '86 4x4 are unobtanium. But it all came together and nothing was more of a relief to lower the jack and see the truck sitting supported on the tire.
  6. Actually the tires are in light truck/inch sizes, I forget what they are but it is not in the usual metric format. Rear looks stock. No body lift blocks.
  7. I had this problem too with the rotor/distributor on my '86 KC with a Z24, the truck was manufactured in June 1985. I also had a problem with the air filter not fitting properly. I got all of this stuff at O'Reilly. I forget how but I figured out that I needed to order for '85 model and when I got those parts they all fit perfectly.
  8. I am finishing up a suspension refresh and need to set my torsion bars. I bought this truck basically as a barn find and have little prior history. It has 15 inch rims but non-standard tires, however the diameter of the tires is 28.5 inches, which is pretty close to stock. The truck sits HIGH off the ground. I measured 16 inches from the ground to the frame rail, and 19 inches from the ground to the welded body panel seam. I want to make sure I set the proper ride height to maximize suspension and driveline life, handling, alignment, etc.... The stock bottle jack that came with the truck can not come close to jacking this truck up, when it is fully extended it does not even reach the frame rail. Did someone previously give this truck a massive raise? Would explain why the entire front end was shot. The tension screws for the torsion bars were maxed out. Does anyone know what the distance from the ground to the frame rail/body seam/other landmark is for a stock 4x4?
  9. Ok so I did (most) of the passenger side front end today. The short answer is that you DO have to back out the outer CV joint from the spindle in order to have enough room to pull out the lower ball joint. You don't have to take it all the way out. It was actually pretty easy. Pull off the auto-lock hub via 6 hex bolts, remove the circlip on the axle splined shaft, pivot the spindle around a bit and you can get the lower ball joint out/in. I did have to slack out the torsion bar, so that will be lots of fun fitting it back in/measuring etc... I do have a question - how in the heck do two 12mm bolts maintain the tension that holds up 25% of this truck's weight? Crazy. Nuts, in fact! A couple of other observations: The upper ball joint is press-fit into the control arm (in addition to 4 bolts), so now I am off to Auto Zone to rent a Ball Joint press tool. Also, the tension rod was pretty easy to put back in, lining up the holes was not too bad, with the torsion bar off I was able to jack the lower control arm up and down to jimmy the rod into position and line up the holes. The Monomax shocks I bought did not come with a compression wrap on them so I had to jerry-rig something with a clamp and some zip ties. Tomorrow the new tie rods, shock, and upper ball joint go in, re-tension the torsion rod, and then torque everything. Then I have to find the time to do the other side one day! The idler arm and steering damper were easy-peasy. This was an exhausting job but satisfying and probably would cost thousands at a shop.
  10. This is a great writeup, I have a 4wd so I can't just take my spindle off like that without getting involved with removing the outer CV joint/drive axle. I am trying to pre-plan pain points on this job, which I am planning to do tomorrow. The only major problem I see is that it does not look like there is enough clearance to lift out the lower joint from the spindle without the joint hitting the outer CV boot/joint. Pic: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cI5qkfpAyMm1fQmhRRuO-8uY663w2qJ5/view?usp=sharing
  11. Hello. 3 of my 4 boots are somehow in perfect shape. The passenger side outer boot is showing some cracking, but not full thickness so no contamination (yet). I have no interest in pulling the CV axle, dealing with the locking hubs, and then going through the hassle of rebooting this thing, which I believe requires a hydraulic press, and want to avoid the Russian Roulette of replacing the whole thing with an aftermarket axle. Has anyone had luck putting those split boots onto one of these trucks? The "universal" sizing means they are sometimes a bit bulky and rub against suspension components in cramped quarters. Thanks in advance.
  12. Hello. FSM, Haynes, and Chiltons all say to remove the LCA, which includes pulling the torsion bars, to replace the lower ball joints. There has to be a way to do this without pulling the LCAs. I am sure the LCA bushings could stand to be replaced, but I have no interest in tackling that job for what I use this truck for. Upper ball joint boots are both intact, so I am going to leave those alone. Thanks.
  13. MaddieCycle

    CV joints/axles

    Hello. Where are folks sourcing replacement front CV joints/axles? '86 KC 4x4 Z24. Thanks!
  14. Nice! Do you think I could get one side done in a day if I started at 6am and didn't go to sleep until I finished? You are right, might as well do all 4 boots if I am going to take this mess apart.
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