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MaddieCycle

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About MaddieCycle

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Cars
    1986 720 Pickup 4x4, 2005 Jetta GLS Wagon running biodiesel

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  1. My steering has a bit of slop at center. The entire steering linkage and front suspension are brand new and the truck has had an alignment. I was able to get the lash set so the steering is tight, but now it feels a little bind-y and it is almost fully cranked down. Backing it off just a little bit makes it loose again. When I bought the truck it had a huge power steering leak at the high pressure line at the pump and the fluid was low. I am assuming this ran low for a while. Maybe the gears are chewed up and I am on my way to a new gearbox. Wondering if it is okay to run it a little tight for the time being, if I am on my way to a new box anyway. I only drive this truck 1,000-2,000 miles a year, I figure I could go a couple of years like this while I keep my eyes out for one in good shape. Or, should I leave it loose?
  2. Well I pulled the valve cover and 2 valves (#2 intake and #3 exhaust) were at 0.016 rather than factory 0.014. I don't know how I screwed this up but I quadruple checked before putting the cover back on this time. Also, one spark plug on the exhaust side had worked loose. I took care of those issues and now the noise went away. I think it was just a rough running engine with reverberations through the exhaust pipe and possibly #2 was misfiring since the plug was loose. For what it's worth, with a spark plug removed from each cylinder, it was easy to turn the engine with the cam bolt. I can't reach the crank bolt due to A/C equipment in the way.
  3. Does anyone have a picture of exactly where the sensor is on a 4x4? I can't even figure out where it is much less what tool to make to reach in there. It is aft of the oil filter? Does the filter have to come out to replace the sensor? My idiot light does not light at all and pressure gauge is erratic, figure I need to change the sensor.
  4. Yes at first I thought it was an exhaust sound. I need to pull the valve cover no matter what since this started after a valve adjustment. If that checks out I'll fish around the manifold. I am going to get a mechanic's stethoscope too and see what that reveals.
  5. Thanks. Yeah I will pull the valve cover and check again. I only adjusted 3 of the 8 valves and all were on the 2nd TDC cycle. I can't hand-advance the engine on my truck because the AC and power steering components prevent access to the crank bolt, so I am stuck using the starter method. Maybe I will jump the solenoid under the hood so I don't have to keep running back and forth. It is due for an oil change by the calendar, only have put 250 miles on it since last December when I did the last change. So I don't think that is the issue. I did find it was down almost a quart of oil (I checked it when I heard the sound). I've used the truck for 1-5 mile trips only for the last year as I've been fixing it up, and many many start-stop cycles in the driveway. Assuming all of that oil blew by the cold rings. All cylinders have good compression and the truck pulls like a mule. This is a California emissions truck that passes smog no problem. I have replaced all of the vacuum lines and full tune up. I can't get it to idle at less than 1000, the idle just breaks up and it dies. For my purposes, it works fine. I don't mind the high idle. Definitely hearing less, not more, of this noise at higher revs and under load, which is reassuring. I'll bet it is a bad belt idler or pulley, or something else that won't cause problems for thousands of miles.
  6. Hello. I have a new mystery tick that began after I did all of the following repairs/maintenance at the same time: Adjust valves Retorque head bolts Replaced all 3 drive belts, AC belt was very loose and squealing The tick is mostly audible at idle and is present cold and warm. It for the most part gets lost in the engine sound at higher revs. Present with clutch in or out. Engine is running great. Does not appear to be coming from the valves. Sounds like it is coming from the bottom. At first I was thinking AC compressor pulley bearing, since I had recently torqued that up. But, I have to consider more sinister bottom end issues like rod knock or a main bearing. It just does not sound as awful as I would expect a bottom end problem to sound. I saw in a couple of forums people posted similar issues and in 2 cases it was a blown head gasket. I have noticed quite a bit of condensation in the exhaust lately and am worried I may have blown the gasket. Video of the sound is here:
  7. I have zerk fittings on the front and rear slip yokes. Anyone know what kind of grease goes in there? Nothing in the FSM. Also, are there zerk fittings on the U joints?
  8. I have to do a master cyl on my '86 KC 4x4 so I figured I'd do my 4 rubber brake lines as well. Ordered the top of the line Raybestos from Rock Auto and they are all "Made in China", with manufacture dates stamped on them going back as far as the early 2000s. All 4 lines on the truck are dry as a bone and show no sings of wear from the outside. The truck stops fine. I don't believe brake lines rot from the inside out like coolant lines do. SO, given they all look good as-is, have quite a bit of rust on the fittings making me think getting the old ones out will be a pain and could result in things breaking, and the replacements are NOS Chinese, I am thinking about just doing the master cyl, leave the existing lines in place, and put these hoses on the shelf for some future time if needed. Whadda ya think?
  9. No it was definitely 0.03mm. However, this also was the first real shakedown cruise since I did a full front end refresh, alignment, and fixed a couple of vacuum leaks. So that could be part of it. Still, when you have such a marginally powerful engine to begin with, I would imagine it needs every little bit dialed in just right. Also, I just put in a Rodeo seat so it is actually comfortable and that could be swaying me as well.
  10. Finally the truck for a spin after finishing this valve adjustment. It runs like a new truck. Huge increase in power, quieter, easier to start. What a difference 0.03mm makes.
  11. The issue was not so much the drag from the A/C and PS, but the lack of any clear access to the crank pulley from above or below. In any case, I was not happy about using the cam bolt, so I just did the old crank-the-starter, verify cam lobes are down, verify piston position with a probe in the spark plug hole method. I have not been able to find a clear mark on the crank pulley to line up with the indicator anyway. 35 years of grime and rust. After all of this fuss only 3 valves needed adjustment, and they were loose by only 0.03mm.
  12. I did the head bolts and nothing snapped, but some weird things happened. The bolts were all on very tight. A couple of them would not budge loose even with a breaker bar and I could sense that if I put any more torque on them I'd snap the bolt. The ones that did move had a lot of resistance. I suspect these have never been moved before. I torqued them to 57 ft lbs which is the middle of the 54-60 range listed in the FSM. Maybe there is some funny business going on inside there, but I'd rather wait for the head gasket to blow than snap off a bolt now. Turning the crank bolt is going to be a pain as this truck has both AC and power steering and there is a lot in the way to get to the crank bolt. I think I will set my torque wrench at a low setting, take out a plug from each cyl, and try turning the engine with the cam bolt.
  13. Thx. Do you use a breaker bar on the camshaft nut to turn the engine?
  14. Are people retorquing their head bolts when the engine is hot or cold? Does it matter? I am worried about snapping a head bolt when loosening them, also thinking about how to get this and the valves all done while the engine is still hot. I think iron and steel have similar thermal expansions so probably does not matter, yes? Also, is it worth as insurance for the future replacing all of the head bolts when I do this on my 35 year old truck?
  15. Yes, this is 4x4. There is no locknut however. There is the lock ring and then a circlip, and then the locking mechanism slides on and is bolted in place.
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