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About MaddieCycle

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Cars
    1986 720 Pickup 4x4, 2005 Jetta GLS Wagon running biodiesel

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  1. Lolz well I am a girl but other than that yeah that's me. I rebuilt the top end of an old Honda XL125 on a block I used to live on that was flat, and my neighbors filed a complaint with 311. 🤣 Took it to a reputable local transmission shop. They pulled it and found several problematic bearings. Gears, shafts, synchros are all good. Clutch is showing some signs of wear so doing the clutch/flywheel/rear main seal while we are in there. Will be 2k out the door parts and labor, and the shop is getting all Japanese bearings, he said they categorically will not put Chinese parts in a
  2. I did the front end a block from my house in SF, just parked on the street where it is flat. The truck was in various states of repair, on stands etc... for 3 weeks!
  3. Thanks! I did the whole front end last summer on this truck and now I am building an off grid cabin. At my home in the city I live on a hill and the truck does not fit in the garage. No room, no time - gonna let a shop do this. I have an appointment next week with a local reputable shop for a free estimate.
  4. Thanks Wayno that is wise advice. Looks like I need to call a couple of local transmission shops in the morning. Besides fixing whatever is out of sorts in there, any other wear items that would be wise to fix, if I am going to go through the hassle of having someone pull the transmission? Seems crazy to not do the clutch while in there.
  5. Agreed. What kind of job is this? Seems straightforward. Drop the trans, split the case, rebuild kit, re-install. How many hours for a skilled transmission mechanic?
  6. Maybe just drive it until I encounter driveability issues? I want to avoid a catastrophic failure, also I only do a few thousand miles per year with this truck so it could limp along like this for a long time. I had a Subaru that lost 4th gear and had all kinds of input shaft noise, drove it for a year and then sold it.
  7. Hard to say, it didn't really have any form or distinguished markings. I did the oil change months ago and made a mental note of it but did not save the piece. It did have a curve to it. Agree never good to find a piece of metal in the gear oil. I will get under it to verify the noise source, but my inspection thus far makes it seem like the tranny. Not good news. Seems like if I do try to do something about this now it would make sense to go with a full rebuild + clutch replacement and rear main seal. Truck is in great shape, I just put an entire new front end on it, many other repairs
  8. Thanks. I doubt this truck ever had water in the gearbox. Shift lever moves like butter.
  9. I have a knock/rattle noise that sounds a little like when you have a pair of sneakers in the dryer. Kind of an irregular knocking. It is not very loud and only occurs when in neutral with the clutch engaged. It is somewhat variable in volume and seems to be loudest after long highway trips. It is louder outside the truck than inside. When disengaging the clutch, it slows and then stops over a couple of seconds. The transmission shifts smoothly, clutch works fine, and there is no noise or other problems in any gear at any speed, in 2wd or 4wd, other than the general loudness of the drive
  10. I snooped around and found the relay above the fuse box that is next to the blower motor relay was clicking only intermittently when I turned on the headlight switch. I believe this is a headlight relay. In any case, I had just 2 weeks ago replaced the blower motor and when tracing that problem had removed the blower motor relay. I assumed I'd disturbed something with this other relay in the process so I took it out and cleaned things up and now none of the problems have happened again. 🤷‍♀️
  11. Great, will check there. I find the electrical system in these 720s to be designed to invite gremlins. Sometimes shorts don't blow fuses, they create alternate ground paths, leak currents, or backfeed currents that can wreak all kinds of havoc. Strangely, this problem did not occur again on my trip, but the next day I had two incidents where I turned the key, heard the solenoid click, saw the voltage meter drop, but the starter did not turn over. A few tries of this and it started right up with a strong cranking. Something is loose in there. Or, my starter could be fixing to die and that
  12. Well these suggestions are all of the obvious ones. Haven't had time to go through things yet. However the real question is why did I loose my idle at the same time, and then when the lights came back on the idle returned. To me that says a problem on the grounding side, or otherwise a short in the system somewhere.
  13. '86 KC with Z24. Suddenly lost my headlights (low and high beam), tail lights, and truck would not idle but otherwise ran fine as long as I kept my foot on the gas. Turn, hazard, dome, dash lights all still worked. All other electrical working fine and voltmeter reading 13V. Then 10 minutes later the headlights returned and truck now idles fine. Assuming there is a loose common ground for headlights and ECU or a solenoid on the carb. Any thoughts? I can't easily trace it at first glance on the wiring diagram.
  14. Motor was cooked. I got a new motor for $50 from O'Reilly, the box it came in was very dusty and it said "Made In Canada". Spare parts probably haven't been made in Canada for decades. This is probably new old stock spare parts from a different (and better) era.
  15. I've got 12v at the red/yellow wire going to the blower motor, and the motor does not turn on when I ground the blue wire. Assuming this means time for a new blower motor.
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