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About MaddieCycle

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Cars
    1986 720 Pickup 4x4, 2005 Jetta GLS Wagon running biodiesel

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  1. Both of the fender liners are not doing so hot on my truck. Passenger side is completely shredded and the prior owner zip tied them in place. Exposed on the passenger side are two high pressure lines; A/C and power steering, both seem to be floating in this area, without any kind of brace, which is surprising and I assume there used to be something there and it is gone. I can fabricate something but was wondering what is supposed to be there. Also, have not been able to find a source for replacement fender liners. None on e-bay, no trucks in local yards. Any ideas? Thanks!
  2. I did not find any 300zx seats at the Pick N Pull. As far as fender washers, were you able to find them grade 8/10.9? I wanted to stick with the high strength grade steel fasteners used to secure seats.
  3. Old thread, I put a '99 Dodge Neon front passenger seat into my 1986 KC on the passenger side. It was a bit of a pain because since this is a seat that will ideally remain connected to the floor in the event of a crash, I did not want to cut corners. 1) Lined up the neon seat as best as possible. You can get 3 of the 4 holes to line up if you set it just right. 2) Instead of reaming out the hole in the 4th tab on the Neon seat, I drilled a new hole through the floor and plugged the old one. 3) Got some grade 8 and 10.9 hardware M8 nuts and 2 inch bolts, multiple increasing size grade 8/10.9 washers to be wide enough to have solid bearing on the Neon seat tabs, but also enough bearing on the bolt flanges. 4) Had to use chaser taps to clean some of the threads. One of the front threads stripped so I used an M8 nut behind the oem welded nut. 5) Installed the 2 remaining OEM bolts, then the last bolt with a nut and washer on the underside of the truck. Solid, safe, and the Neon seat is really comfortable, sits a little higher than stock.
  4. It's the clutch, not the brakes. If it were the brakes, that would be another story. For now, 3 motorcycles, 3 cars, a house, full time job, married with a toddler, I've got my hands full! I am making this a low priority and figure worst that happens is I get some funny clutch action and then I'll swap it.
  5. Yeah I just gave up on trying to get the tabs to snap on. I would up taking a piece of HDPE plastic, epoxied it to the cover, dremmel-ed a channel in the top, and ran a beefy wire zip-tie around the thing and down below on the body of the cylinder, now that darned thing won't come off next time I hit some California freeway potholes.
  6. Hi - having trouble getting the clutch master cyl cover back on. The ears on the cap don't seem to want to ride over the tabs on the reservoir when I twist the cap on. Tried so hard it broke one of the ears on the cap. I figured maybe the cap was so old it was dried out and deformed, so I got a new one. Still can't get it on. Any tricks? Thanks!
  7. Dude super not helpful answer, not sure what "generation" you think I am but suffice to say I did my first tune up 32 years ago when I got my first car and I've owned and worked on more than 15 cars & motorcycles since then. Had a busy week and yup, made this mistake. I've got the factory service manual for the truck. Neither it nor the parts fiche indicate which is which. Glad you had time on a Friday night to post a non-helpful reply.
  8. Hi - which coil is which (i.e. intake vs exhaust)? There is one on the fender up higher and one next to the radiator down lower. Stupid me forgot to label them when swapping wires out. Bought a set of wires from the morons at local chain auto parts store. Mistake. One of the coil wire boots is the wrong size. Looking around online there are many brands/models that allegedly fit. I have an '86 KC with Z24. Anyone have a specific link to a set that definitely worked and is good quality? OEM is close to $200 when you include the coil wires. Thanks!
  9. Well, I just got my first welding machine as a birthday gift and have been looking for an excuse to use it!
  10. Hi - can someone share a pic of where their pre-heater hose connects to the intake shield around the exhaust manifold? The hose on my new-to-me 1986 4x4 with Z24i is just hanging free from the air cleaner but not connected below. I am having problems with this truck having a fast idle and I am wondering if I have a lean condition because I am not getting hot enough air into the intake. Not sure if there is a fitting or clamp that is supposed to go there, nothing clear on the Nissan fische. Could probably make one with exhaust couplers from the auto parts store, but would like to know what the OEM looks like. Thanks!
  11. Super helpful, thanks! No holes in the shroud but now that I know at least the hose is supposed to be in that general area, I'll just rig something up. Truck is 32 years old who knows what has been modded before.....
  12. Yes I could definitely engineer something, I am more somewhat dumbfounded that this was the original design. Did someone re-plumb the system, or are some brackets missing? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_F3U0Ieoz8bR621fu5ME2KudM2e4-50w
  13. Definitely eye bolts, they look factory and are the same paint color as the bed. They look like M8. I think I'll bolt or weld beefier D-rings to the sidewalls on the inside.
  14. My '86 KC 4x4 has eye bolts in the 4 corners of the bed wall. How strong are these? Could I tie down a motorcycle using ratchet straps? In the glove box, I found 2 more eye bolts, don't seem to see where they would go. Thanks!
  15. MaddieCycle

    AC hose routing

    Hi - getting this '86 KC 4x4 I bought cleaned up. There is an A/C hose (the A/C works!) running across from the compressor on the driver side of the engine, over the fan shroud, past the battery terminal, and into the bits on the passenger side firewall. The hose is not supported anywhere. It is just resting (bouncing) on the fan shroud and battery terminal and already showing some wear in those areas. It does not seem to have a clear routing path. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
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