A guy named Rick Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Interesting 1 Quote Link to comment
620slodat Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 16 hours ago, datzenmike said: Since 99.999% of the time you are just driving around town, low speed torque is very satisfying. On 6/27/2021 at 5:31 AM, datzenmike said: Torque at low speed. It's more addicting than crack. That sounds like what diesel motors are all about, low HP and lots of torque. Very addictive!! Don 2 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted June 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 4 hours ago, 620slodat said: That sounds like what diesel motors are all about, low HP and lots of torque. Very addictive!! Don You aren't wrong! LOL I won't forget working at the dealership and driving a used trade-in someone left a few goodies on. I forgot if it was a 5.9 or 6.7, but it was a 6-speed and would spin the tires even in 4th gear. Though one of the diesel mechanics said the way the guy had it set up, he was lucky the engine hadn't blown up yet. 😳 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 So i need a new windshield and gasket. i was quoted $315 including gasket and installation. Does that sound a little high? The gasket needs to be replaced too because it's very hard and also several spots in the corners where it's cracked and water will leak in. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 I would say that is inline with todays prices. Just in the windshield and gasket you are looking at $255 plus tax & shipping. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 Cool. One more thing to get done and checked off. Going to start the weber 32/36 conversion.... again. Fuck California smog laws. I'll be on here asking for help if I run into problems. I ran through the jet setup and looks like I have: Pump jet: 50 Air correctors: 160/170 (i may have messed these before and they should actually be 170/160??) Main jets: 140/140 Primary idle jet: 60 Secondary idle jet: 55 I believe the nozzle the float needle goes into is a 200 Anything else has no markings. There's a tiny jet/needle above the accelerator pump, nothing engraved on it. 1 Quote Link to comment
DIY 1985 Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 23 hours ago, Charlie69 said: I would say that is inline with todays prices. Just in the windshield and gasket you are looking at $255 plus tax & shipping. What is your source? I pulled an aftermarket one from a U Pull yard and it was separating under the weatherstrip, from the bottom, there were air bubbles between the glasses. I decided to leave it there. Also, it was a non-chromed weatherstrip, it had a gap from shrinkage. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 i was just thinking, i have 2 sets of SU carbs sitting around from a 240z. any way i could slap those on the Z24?? haha. any idea on power/mpg difference, worth it or not vs a weber? just an idea. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 You'll have to make an intake. There was never a Z series SU intake. Side drafts avoid the losses associated with downdraft's air having to make a 90 degree change in direction into the intake. 240z SUs are 46mm? something like that and are sized for 2.4 liters. They sound awesome. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 i know, they have that ITB sound to them, very throaty. can change the whole pizzazz of the truck. damn, if someone could make me one and some linkage that'd be awesome!! i don't care if there's performance gain or not, just driving it around would be cool enough on its own. with my middle finger in the air to California's smog laws. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 Keep the stock intake and carb for smog testing. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 oh yeah, i know that. I've done the Weber swap before and kept everything. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 i've noticed when i floor it if i'm in a higher gear at a lower RPM, it either feels like the secondary isn't opening all the way or it's leaning out, not sure. it's a feeling like it's slightly bogging. shift into lower gear and it comes more alive under WOT. I forgot how it ran with the weber, but i don't think i had that thing tuned properly when I ran it so i am hoping for the best. we'll see what happens this weekend or next. 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 that'd be awesome if there were an adapter to attach an SU carb in place of a DCOE because you can get a dual side draft intake for the Z24, although very expensive. although i don't know how well that would flow. https://www.lynxauto.com.au/twin-su-1-3-4-weber-dcoe-1.html this here looks like it would attach 2 SU's in place of one DCOE. strange they have no option for a single SU 1 Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) I'm in desperate need of new battery cables. positive one is corroded bad, and the clamp has been broken since i got it. i just make it work. anyways, i can't seem to find the positive clamp anywhere and i'm not sure if i will have to get the wire and clamp separate. anyone point me in the right direction? it's got to the point I've had to wiggle the cables to get it to start without it acting like the battery is dead where you go to start it and it goes *click* and everything shuts off. EDIT: i just saw on nissanpartsdeal that it's been discontinued so can't even get it that way. Edited July 3, 2021 by A guy named Rick 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 4, 2021 Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 Oreilly' has 20 pages of battery cables. Do not search by vehicle. Do a generic search for "Battery Cables". Get measurements of your cables. Do not forget that the negative cable bolts to the inner fendr by the battery and then continues to the engine block or the intake manifold. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 8 hours ago, Charlie69 said: Oreilly' has 20 pages of battery cables. Do not search by vehicle. Do a generic search for "Battery Cables". Get measurements of your cables. Do not forget that the negative cable bolts to the inner fendr by the battery and then continues to the engine block or the intake manifold. I know not to search by vehicle. Interesting, mine is not connected to the inner fender at all. Just straight to the intake. So I have the wrong cable currently?? I bought the truck that way. The positive has the wire basically clamped in the middle of the terminal by 2 bolts, and the fusible link is connected to one of those 2 bolts. Im having trouble finding a cable with that style terminal to hook the fusible link too. So, the negative I have is wrong?? 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 3 hours ago, A guy named Rick said: I know not to search by vehicle. Interesting, mine is not connected to the inner fender at all. Just straight to the intake. So I have the wrong cable currently?? I bought the truck that way. The positive has the wire basically clamped in the middle of the terminal by 2 bolts, and the fusible link is connected to one of those 2 bolts. Im having trouble finding a cable with that style terminal to hook the fusible link too. So, the negative I have is wrong?? Yep and there should be a negative cable going from the valve cover to the body. There are lots of lights, gauges, radio ect grounded to the body so you want a good ground to the body. Body mounts have rubber inserts and the body mount bolts are often corroded and don't make a good path for ground. I would say 90% of my 12 volt issues can be traced back to ground issues. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 My 84, 85, and 86 all use a cable like I pictured for the ground. I do not remember if the 80, 81, 82, and 83 use this type cable cable. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 10 hours ago, Charlie69 said: My 84, 85, and 86 all use a cable like I pictured for the ground. I do not remember if the 80, 81, 82, and 83 use this type cable cable. Well I have an '86 and it doesn't have it so previous owner may have put wrong one. Where exactly does it bolt to? Here's a hole that may be it below the battery tray... I have no idea why tf it mad the picture upside down... but whatever. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 6, 2021 Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 Any generic cable will do but get one with the clamp ends molded on and NOT the screw on ones. Make a jumper wire from 10 or 12 gauge wire with solid crimped on ends. Solder them on too if possible and bolt to the exhaust stud and the firewall. Or intake to firewall. Or the starter bolt and firewall. Right now it's probably the throttle cable that is the ground return between body and the engine block. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 6, 2021 Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 I will take a picture of my 86 tomottorw and post it. Quote Link to comment
A guy named Rick Posted July 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 Mike, I remember you mentioning before about ground between engine and body.. attached are 2 pics, one of the flat braided wire you have mentioned, and another wire screwed to the same location. I have this one going to the back side of the head, which has a hanger bolted there (hanger for the crankcase ventilation tube that's pressed into the block). Attached also is a wire that's not grounded to anything. Idk what it is for. It feeds off the wiring hardness going to the positive cable. Also attached is the positive terminal. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted July 6, 2021 Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 That's a mess! Take all that crap off and get the right ground wire. That piece that the fusible links connect to remove and soak in CLR. Also the fusable link ends. You will have endless issues running wiring like that. Not to be harsh but the wiring isn't that expensive and time with a wire brush and some sandpaper will solve a lot of your issues. 1 Quote Link to comment
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