Got it to pass smog, the work begins now... 1986 Nissan 720 project

[A guy named Rick]

22 minutes ago, jagman said:

The induction unit picks up any current flow nearby including signals from a pacemaker.  Is that relevant?  🙂

I'm 30 with no heart problems, I don't have one haha. Umm, yeah weird though I haven't had it do this before.

Another interesting note, no mater what wire i had it connected to, it always showed the timing mark where i'd be setting it connected to cylinder 1. 😕

[A guy named Rick]

one of the things i want to get around to doing soon is the interior of the truck. going to need a new dash (pretty cracked), going to repaint what i can of the stuff that is salvageable. i'm in need currently of the kick panels and door sills. headliner needs to be replaced. Need new seat (or seats), track down a center console. by the time i get done, nothing will be original lol. the hardest thing so far to find has been the kick panels (where the speakers and relays go)

Edited July 31, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[bottomwatcher]

Do you have the cardboard or plastic speaker panel? They made them in plastic and they last forever.

Edited August 1, 2021 by bottomwatcher
Spelling

[A guy named Rick]

4 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Do you have the cardboard or plastic speaker panel? They made them in plastic and they last forever.

 

Well currently nothing, except the top one on the driver's side where the fuse block is, and that one is plastic.

[A guy named Rick]

This just happened today in the 720 😳 

 

 

Might I add it was 100 degrees outside and I had a little wheel spin.

[Crashtd420]

10 hours ago, A guy named Rick said:

This just happened today in the 720 😳 

 

 

Might I add it was 100 degrees outside and I had a little wheel spin.

Is that an app?

 

[A guy named Rick]

Yessir. Uses GPS and starts immediately when you start moving. I have to rely on a GPS speedometer too since mine is a little crazy. Says about 13 mph when sitting stopped, and the tires are just a tad shorter than stock too. I go 0.4 miles more on my trip odometer than the GPS one. 

[A guy named Rick]

I think for it being 100 degrees out, carb not fully dialed in, engine a little down on compression compared to new spec, and a little wheel spin on launch, that's a decent time because with the stock carb I did 11+. I know this isn't a fast truck by any means, I just like seeing what my vehicles can do haha. 

[Crashtd420]

Thanks.... I wanna try that in my 521 now.....

 

Edit: just downloaded it.....

Edited August 11, 2021 by Crashtd420

[bottomwatcher]

Tinker with one thing at a time. Try advancing the timing and see if your time improves. This is much better than the butt dyno.

[datzenmike]

6 hours ago, A guy named Rick said:

Yessir. Uses GPS and starts immediately when you start moving. I have to rely on a GPS speedometer too since mine is a little crazy. Says about 13 mph when sitting stopped, and the tires are just a tad shorter than stock too. I go 0.4 miles more on my trip odometer than the GPS one. 

 

13 MPH  just means the needle sticks. The trip odometer is gear driven and is not connected to the needle. 0.40 is 40% out!!!! The 195/75R14 (likely you have these stock) is 25.5" tall to be 40% out you would have to have a tire and rim height of around 18". Go out on the interstate and use the mile markers. Zero the GPS and the odometer and drive ten miles.

 

 

 

[A guy named Rick]

7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

13 MPH  just means the needle sticks. The trip odometer is gear driven and is not connected to the needle. 0.40 is 40% out!!!! The 195/75R14 (likely you have these stock) is 25.5" tall to be 40% out you would have to have a tire and rim height of around 18". Go out on the interstate and use the mile markers. Zero the GPS and the odometer and drive ten miles.

 

 

 

 

Oh shit, I must have been really out of it when I said that. I meant to say every 10 miles I go .4 miles more on my odometer than on the GPS one. So not off by much at all. 

[A guy named Rick]

Was a little cooler earlier and did this:

 

 

I wonder what stock is haha 😄 🤔

 

I think timing is at 5 degrees, and I have to put premium because I will hear a little pinging if I don't. I also read on here some people do the same. Didn't think I'd ever have to run premium in something requiring regular (that's a whole other discussion, people and their beliefs on octane 🙄)

Edited August 12, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[datzenmike]

Z24 is 8.25 compression, has a hemi combustion chamber and it's a cross flow with dual plugs. All this makes it very detonation resistant. You sure it's pinging? Better check that 5 degree timing.

 

NGK plugs? BPR6ES for the intake side and BPR5ES for the exhaust???

[A guy named Rick]

Plugs are correct. I'm pretty sure that it was pinging on regular if you were to really get on it but who knows.

[A guy named Rick]

You know what, I bet the mixture is a little lean. Getting the air fuel ratio gauge will help determine that.

Edited August 12, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[A guy named Rick]

So back when I first started on this project again, when I would start the truck it seemed to take a few seconds to build oil pressure. This has now turned into the oil light on for about 5 seconds or so when starting the truck, and slight rattling from the engine. If I were to have the choke hooked up it would sound really bad for a few seconds.

 

I want to replace the oil pump to rule that out and for peace of mind but I have a gut feeling I should be pulling the pan too which is more work. I can do this when I do my suspension.

 

What do I need to know to do the oil pump? I heard something about your timing van get messed up. Is there a write up on replacing it? 

[Crashtd420]

What I did on my 521 was to unbolt the distributor from the front cover.. leave the mount and timing plate all together.... get a small pair of vice grips and hold onto the top tang on the oil pump shaft.... 

Now remove the oil pump.... reinstall in reverse order and your timing will be the same..... 

Dont even need to worry about top dead center.... just make sure you dont spin the distributor 180 before reinstalling....

[datzenmike]

LOL That's exactly what I did...

 

 

You cannot put the distributor back in 180 out. Impossible because of the large and small side  of the tang...

 

 

 

[Crashtd420]

22 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

You cannot put the distributor back in 180 out. Impossible because of the large and small side  of the tang...

I say it just to say it....

Some people do like to force things back together....

[A guy named Rick]

Great minds think alike. I was thinking of doing that. So with doing this, is it pretty much a simple unbolt, slide out and slide new one in?

[datzenmike]

17 hours ago, A guy named Rick said:

So back when I first started on this project again, when I would start the truck it seemed to take a few seconds to build oil pressure. This has now turned into the oil light on for about 5 seconds or so when starting the truck, and slight rattling from the engine. If I were to have the choke hooked up it would sound really bad for a few seconds.

 

I want to replace the oil pump to rule that out and for peace of mind but I have a gut feeling I should be pulling the pan too which is more work. I can do this when I do my suspension.

 

What do I need to know to do the oil pump? I heard something about your timing van get messed up. Is there a write up on replacing it? 

 

The oil pan does not have to come off to replace the oil pump.

 

If replacing the oil pump get the higher output pump from any KA24E or KA24DE engine from a D21 Hardbody pickup. I've had/have them in all my L and Z engines.  Tired L20B with hot idle oil pressure of 17 PSI increases to 29 PSI with KA oil pump. The internal rotors are 13% longer so moves more oil faster. Max pressure is unaffected but pressure is higher at all other RPMs.  

[A guy named Rick]

19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

The oil pan does not have to come off to replace the oil pump.

 

If replacing the oil pump get the higher output pump from any KA24E or KA24DE engine from a D21 Hardbody pickup. I've had/have them in all my L and Z engines.  Tired L20B with hot idle oil pressure of 17 PSI increases to 29 PSI with KA oil pump. The internal rotors are 13% longer so moves more oil faster. Max pressure is unaffected but pressure is higher at all other RPMs.  

 

Fully understand i don't have to pull the oil pan to do the pump, i was saying that because i am worried about how much crud could be in there, if the screen is dirty or anything. I got the truck at 114,000 miles and has 130,000 now. Not sure the history of it, how it was taken care of. 

[datzenmike]

That's the point of oil changes in a timely manner. The oil is detergent and holds all the 'dirt' in suspension for the filter to... filter out. Heavy things like metal flakes from the block (basically fine fine grit) will settle to the bottom. They may rinse out with the oil but are safe where they are. There's not much that will float on/in oil that can be caught by the pick up screen. The screen is very porous. Over use of RTV comes to mind. Flakes of wood from a home made chain wedge. But these will flush out with the oil change. Engine oil is extremely clean. How many thousands of times does the entire contents of the oil pan pass through the oil filter. It's uncountable. The black is microscopic carbon which it much too fine to filter out. Even black oil can still be fine to use. Not always but usually. I've seen countless pick up screens and they are always the cleanest thing in the pan. When down a quart and near the next filter and oil change drop a quart of ATF in for a week then change when HOT. ATF is even more detergent and will flush the engine insides. You should be using a diesel oil for the increased ZDDP levels. It's much more detergent than gasoline oils and will make your engine cleaner as you drive.

[A guy named Rick]

I found a source saying ignition timing is 16 btdc.  I'm confused. 

 

https://itstillruns.com/time-nissan-z24-7931964.html.