Got it to pass smog, the work begins now... 1986 Nissan 720 project

[Charlie69]

I always order 85 720 parts for my 86 to avoid getting hardbody parts.

[captain720]

6 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

I always order 85 720 parts for my 86 to avoid getting hardbody parts.

This is the only way to do it

[A guy named Rick]

Exactly. Hell, rockauto doesn't show carburetor parts for an 86. 

[A guy named Rick]

Anybody know what these things on the leaf springs are? Seems they serve no purpose whatsoever 🤔

[captain720]

I have seen them on, and I have seen them off. Some of them are for aftermarket "helper" springs. I remove them, they are ugly and add weight.

Edited July 27, 2021 by captain720
Added words n stuff

[datzenmike]

It defies the imagination how they work or what they do. If form follows function, then what?

[Charlie69]

I was told by our local spring shop that they are noise dampeners.

[A guy named Rick]

See, I was thinking some kind of damper, either noise or vibration. You're right, they're ugly. I'm thinking about removing them.

 

Tomorrow I am going to do the output shift seal on the transmission, and also put a little gasket maker shit on the rear cam plug seal between the valve cover and head (Mike, you told me put a little sealant on it in my post 'Oil leak... help!'). I did the output shaft seal before, but still drove it with a worn out carrier bushing, which offset the driveline. I am hoping the bushing in the tailshaft is not worn out and that the seal will fix the annoying leak, which basted the underside in gear oil these past few months and a few hundred miles. We shall see 🙏🤞

Edited July 27, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[powderfinger]

That's funny because all mine does is add noise 🙂 The rubber dry rotted and the whole thing came loose and always slides down the leave spring and bangs around. I need to take it off.

[Charlie69]

I take mine off and do not notice any difference, but I am deaf.

[captain720]

26 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

I take mine off and do not notice any difference, but I am deaf.

What? Didn't catch what you said there 😉

 

I just took a look at my 4wd and the wrecking yard leaf springs I have on there have an even weird one, might catch a photo of it later. They have one on the front and back of the spring packs but they are mounted closer to the axle so they aren't so ugly behind the tires

[A guy named Rick]

So, I replaced cap, rotor, and wires and still am getting a misfire at idle. It's annoying. Nothing major, just not smooth. Mike, you said something about coils almost never going bad or something, welp, what else should I check? It shows up when hooking the timing light up too. The bulb will miss also. Wires are NGK, cap and rotor are Durashit Gold (duralast from autozone), brass, I don't do aluminum.

Also, i found a length of hose from the top of the charcoal canister that goes to Vac Line B, according to the vac line tutorial post, that was rotted enough it was hissing when i would rev by hand, only heard it because i was listening to the ticking sound coming from cylinder 3 or 4 on exhaust side (sounds like lifter ticking or exhaust leak). so i have that capped off at the intake until i replace that hose.

Edited July 29, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[A guy named Rick]

Hey Mike, so i did the half circle plug. i couldn't find the other ones i had, but i put a little high temp gasket rtv on it, just a little line down the center. apparently, previous owner must have done the same. i'll post a pic later. i had to scrape it off the head and also the plug. rear one had a small piece missing out the edge, i swappped it to the front. less likely to leak there.

 

Tailshaft seal is done. seems to not leak anymore. it's quite possible i had the wrong one in there, maybe for an input shaft. the correct one i put in seemed to be a little deeper than the other. i'll post pic of old one later too.

[datzenmike]

On 7/28/2021 at 8:02 PM, A guy named Rick said:

So, I replaced cap, rotor, and wires and still am getting a misfire at idle. It's annoying. Nothing major, just not smooth. Mike, you said something about coils almost never going bad or something, welp, what else should I check? It shows up when hooking the timing light up too. The bulb will miss also. Wires are NGK, cap and rotor are Durashit Gold (duralast from autozone), brass, I don't do aluminum.

 

 

 Where is the timing light connected? Is it the intake side or the exhaust side?

[A guy named Rick]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 Where is the timing light connected? Is it the intake side or the exhaust side?

 

Had it on exhaust. Well, I think I need a new timing light or something. Have you ever had a timing light flashing when you pull the trigger WITHOUT it connected to a spark plug wire? If i move it away from the engine bay, it won't, but closer to the engine and it does it. It's never done this before. Wtf 

[A guy named Rick]

Anyways, noticed also I had intake and exhaust coils mixed up. Idk where I saw it on here, but someone posted saying their z24 did not like having intake and exhaust mixed up. I can tell mine was happier with them switched back.

[datzenmike]

Absolutely no difference if you mix them up. Both coils fire together at the same time. Just swap the coil wires on the cap. Somoone changed the wires and this happens all the time.

 

Make sure both coils are firing. If the exhaust coil fuse is blown and it isn't firing having the intake side switched and firing the exhaust might run differently, but if both firing it doesn't matter.

[Charlie69]

My 86 720 runs different when I switch the coil wires.  Like Mike said it should not matter but on my 86 it does.

[datzenmike]

There is a function on the Z24 that shuts the exhaust side plugs off under heavy load. It automatically increases the advance to compensate for the longer burn time from a single ignition source. If wires were switched and only the intakes were off instead, this might be different.

[A guy named Rick]

  

1 hour ago, Charlie69 said:

My 86 720 runs different when I switch the coil wires.  Like Mike said it should not matter but on my 86 it does.

yeah idk. i get that there's 2 coils and it shouldn't affect being switched but i switched them and went for a short drive and honestly felt a little better. i have an '86 too.

and yeah, both coils are firing. this miss at idle is annoying. like i said, it's not bad. truck runs reasonably well. just sorting shit out. i did notice there are 2 wires, a red and a black, the black one is connected as a ground on the distributor i believe, near the vacuum advance. the other, is not connected. idk where it's supposed to go. it has a bullet style connector on it and some think, almost hose-like. sheath on it. where TF does this go? should have taken a pic

Edited July 31, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[Charlie69]

I will look at mine.  Mine is California emissions.

[A guy named Rick]

i'm still scratching my head at why the inductive timing light will flash not even hooked up to the wire. doesn't do it if i get the clip way away from the engine bay. i've heard of others doing this too. guess harbor freight timing lights suck after awhile. or leaving it in the garage when the temp reaches over 110 inside isn't good.

[captain720]

I've used the harbor freight timing lights, I've got two. I don't think they are dead accurate, but if I time by ear and the light agrees I trust it 😂. And I've stored them where it hits 140°F easy and they work just as good. But mine don't blink unclipped 🤷

[jagman]

The induction unit picks up any current flow nearby including signals from a pacemaker.  Is that relevant?  🙂

[datzenmike]

The inductive clip should be using shielded cable.