Got it to pass smog, the work begins now... 1986 Nissan 720 project

[datzenmike]

 

Black? are ground. Will it reach the alternator? They have a black ground wire like that. If not move it around and see where it will reach.

 

 

This is the worst possible battery clamp. Avoid like the plague. The clamp should be crimped onto the copper wire.

[datzenmike]

On 7/2/2021 at 4:08 PM, A guy named Rick said:

i've noticed when i floor it if i'm in a higher gear at a lower RPM, it either feels like the secondary isn't opening all the way or it's leaning out, not sure. it's a feeling like it's slightly bogging. shift into lower gear and it comes more alive under WOT.

I forgot how it ran with the weber, but i don't think i had that thing tuned properly when I ran it so i am hoping for the best. we'll see what happens this weekend or next.

 

Don't forget the secondary is pulled in by a vacuum signal. The engine has to be well revved up and floored. In 5th you would need to be at highway speeds or more and even then less likely to feel it.

[A guy named Rick]

12 minutes ago, bottomwatcher said:

That's a mess! Take all that crap off and get the right ground wire. That piece that the fusible links connect to remove and soak in CLR. Also the fusable link ends. You will have endless issues running wiring like that. Not to be harsh but the wiring isn't that expensive and time with a wire brush and some sandpaper will solve a lot of your issues.

 

Not really experiencing any issues tbh. I bought the truck years ago like this. Didn't care much then. 

[A guy named Rick]

5 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Don't forget the secondary is pulled in by a vacuum signal. The engine has to be well revved up and floored. In 5th you would need to be at highway speeds or more and even then less likely to feel it.

 

Yup I know about the vacuum secondary. I think it's sort of a flat spot transition that I'm feeling. 

 

12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Black? are ground. Will it reach the alternator? They have a black ground wire like that. If not move it around and see where it will reach.

 

 

This is the worst possible battery clamp. Avoid like the plague. The clamp should be crimped onto the copper wire.

 

Lol ok I will avoid, but how do I attach the fusible link then?? 😂😂

[A guy named Rick]

Mike, how about cables like this and then attach to connectors like these??

 

[datzenmike]

Yes that is better than some. Once on and tight rub a little vasaline on to prevent corrosion.

 

 

The engine has to need the extra secondary. If at low RPM it just won't come on. Try 4th or 3rd to get it revved up.

[A guy named Rick]

Would the fusible link just bolt to the same bolt that the battery cable would go, on those terminals?

 

Also Mike, did all 720's come with a center console? Mine doesn't have one but there is outline on the carpet where one was at one time. I don't have AC so I don't have a sport truck. It's 2wd, crank windows so I know it's base. Probably just had the console with the little pocket eh? I'd like to put on in with the gouges you were talking about from the 4wd.

[A guy named Rick]

I have some Felpro rubber-fiber sheet gasket roll laying around. Could this be used to make carb base gaskets? Instead of having to order the ones pre-made for the weber base and adapter? Link:

 

https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/gasket-material/fel-pro-3157-gasket-material/67683_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:71700000069889792&gclid=CjwKCAjw_o-HBhAsEiwANqYhp1iXP6O9e96zlejyTa3llCtI9L5jFIt2Vns6k9uDoMHXhRvNUYjWHxoCYbMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[datzenmike]

I think they all came with the console around the shifter. Long and short. The longs had the change pocket.

 

If you mean the arm rest console it was only on the King Cabs because... bucket seats.

[A guy named Rick]

So I tried adding on the weber. FAIL. I don't have the original studs and cap screws for the adapter plate. So, off to the hardware store. I get the stuff i think I need and will work, but no, the cap screw heads don't sit flush, but also the studs that probably came with the plate were thinner. The ones i have, which are stock size 8x1.25 are too wide so everything doesn't line up.

 

I contacted Redline to see if i can just get the screws and studs without having to get the gaskets and plate. Because $50, when I can make gaskets myself and already have the plate.

[A guy named Rick]

Well I ordered some stuff from carbsunlimited, figured I would throw a rebuild kit into the Weber since I ended up needing to order a whole new base adapter.

 

While waiting, I opened up the primary idle jet to look at it (I found earlier something about a "jet holder" and didn't remember if mine was like that or not). Went to screw it back in, and it wouldn't go in. I then remembered I had issues with it last time I looked at it to see what size the jet is. Now, the threads are toast. The "female" threads in the carb body.

 

Does anybody have any idea how I can fix this? 

[A guy named Rick]

On 7/13/2021 at 6:58 PM, A guy named Rick said:

Well I ordered some stuff from carbsunlimited, figured I would throw a rebuild kit into the Weber since I ended up needing to order a whole new base adapter.

 

While waiting, I opened up the primary idle jet to look at it (I found earlier something about a "jet holder" and didn't remember if mine was like that or not). Went to screw it back in, and it wouldn't go in. I then remembered I had issues with it last time I looked at it to see what size the jet is. Now, the threads are toast. The "female" threads in the carb body.

 

Does anybody have any idea how I can fix this? 

 

Maybe a helicoil?? 

[datzenmike]

JB weld the old threads and run the correct tap through it. Clean and de-grease and just enough JB to coat what's there.

[A guy named Rick]

I was thinking of using JB weld too!

 

With the helicoil, I'd probably have to drill just ever so slightly larger to get rid of the old threads, which I'm sure you advise against because the last thing I want is metal bits getting down into the passage of the carb, since this is for the primary idle jet. Right?

[A guy named Rick]

Alright I'm pissed off 😤.  Ordered a rebuild kit for the weber. It arrived with little more than a few gaskets, the power valve, accelerator pump, needle and seat, but no o-rings or those copper washer gaskets!! I'm not waiting until Monday to call up Carbs Unlimited and tell them, have them ship it and not be able to get back to working on it until my work week is over next Saturday.

 

Does anybody know if I can use a slightly larger one, that's not metal, from a rebuild kit for a stock 720 Hitachi carburetor? For the needle seat? Or could I get one locally at an autozone or O'Reilly auto parts? Really bummed out about this.

 

BTW, tapping the threads worked out fine. No JB Weld at all. No thread inserts. Hope to God no bits of metal got down in but it shouldn't hurt much. I'll blow it out good.

[A guy named Rick]

 

I believe it is slightly bigger and not sure the material it's made from. But would it work? Just the gasket.

Edited July 18, 2021 by A guy named Rick

[Charlie69]

Why do you people keep wasting your time and money with Carbs Unlimited?

[captain720]

I bought an electric choke from carbs unlimited, worked out ok. But I like redline for carbs and rebuild kits.

[A guy named Rick]

6 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Why do you people keep wasting your time and money with Carbs Unlimited?

 

Because I originally called Redline looking for just the studs and cap screws I posted about on here July 9th, the guy I spoke to pointed me in their direction that maybe they can get just them for me, since I have the base plate and can easily make the gaskets. Then since they couldn't do that, I was already talking to them and just ordered what I needed through them.

[A guy named Rick]

But lesson learned. I'm not sending something back and waiting longer, and it says opened kits are non refundable. Guess what? I opened it and then noticed it was missing shit. 

 

Harbor Freight sells an assortment of copper washers for like 6.99. I'm going over there in a few to see if one of them will fit. The reason it's a big deal is I am missing the one for the float valve seat, could be why it ran a little rich before. Probably was leaking a little and overfilling the float bowl a little. 

[Charlie69]

Auto parts houses is a better choice than harbor freight.  Napa has a good selection of studs. So do nut and bolt places.

[A guy named Rick]

Not looking at harbor freight for studs. I bought the adapter kit. I need the metal o-ring that sits under the float jet.

[A guy named Rick]

I'm digging into the truck finally to get the weber on. Pulling vacuum lines out which is satisfying. But, I found oil coming out of the small vacuum line leading to the AB valve. Is this normal? Or do I have some problems? 

[datzenmike]

 Some stuff should be left alone including the AB valve. It has ZERO effect on running and performance as it only operates when decelerating at high RPMs. The charcoal canister can stay, PCV valve and the fuel shut off system. Fuel shut off actually saves gas and only works when decelerating. Modify the stock air filter to fit the Weber so you have a better air filter and the ATC is kept. The automatic temperature control moderates and keeps the intake air temperature at a constant setting. In winter or bad weather it runs like it's July out.

 

The AB valve monitors intake vacuum and if it exceeds a preset limit opens and lets filtered air into the intake, lowering the vacuum. Only happens on deceleration and the reduced engine vacuum lowers oil burning.

[A guy named Rick]

Well I got it slightly running today, trying to tune it, but the carb is making a god awful whining noise. Yes I am sure it is coming from the carb. It sounds like a really loud supercharger whine. What could cause this?