spudly13 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 coughing out the carbs? seemed to do it only when its cold. but does it really bad. running on boost. its crazy how fast it spools. i can boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k... im 4 turns out on my screws, they came with a little plastic spacer on the needles that i didnt see IN any pics? and i drilled my jets to 1.5mm becasue my local hardware store only cares standard and it was either 1.5mm or 1.9mm. but it needs lots more fuel. so ill be drilling those out tomorrow...I got frusterated with the tig, so i had my dad finish it up for me, cant see in the pics but you can tell the difference! 2 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Awesome. Boosted R1's. LOVIN it. How r u going to tune it?? Got a wide band?? I'd hate to see you melt a piston! Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Man boosted on R1 carbs I'd love to do that !! is that L16 ? Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Thinkin about putting a wide band in the mail, drilled my jets to 1.9, 3 turns out on the screws, and still have the little spacer deals. I smell fuel in the exhaust so thats good, but im going to take it easy until i can really see whats going on. And yeah thats an l16. im de-stroking an l20 and having the head fully worked, that will hopefully be in by the end of summer. (provided this motor makes it that long) Quote Link to comment
David.N Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 coughing out the carbs? seemed to do it only when its cold. but does it really bad. running on boost. its crazy how fast it spools. i can boost 10 pounds in nuetral by 5k... im 4 turns out on my screws, they came with a little plastic spacer on the needles that i didnt see IN any pics? and i drilled my jets to 1.5mm becasue my local hardware store only cares standard and it was either 1.5mm or 1.9mm. but it needs lots more fuel. so ill be drilling those out tomorrow...I got frusterated with the tig, so i had my dad finish it up for me, cant see in the pics but you can tell the difference! Hi, my name is Dave and I'm really close to getting my car running on R1 carbs! I'd like to add boost once I get them dailed in and I'm really interested in how your R1 carbs run with boost. I've done some research on turbo'ed r1's and I know you need to reference the diaphram and float bowls to manifold pressure. You also need a fuel regulator that is referenced to boost and increases fuel psi on a 1:1 ratio relative to boost psi. This way you're you are able to keep jetting close to stock (on a bike, that is) and fueling directly increases in relation to boost pressure. How did you set up your carbs to accept boost??? Any help would be much appreciated. Here's a turbo R1 and needs to be boost referenced on the carb - http://www.turbo-bike.com/Pressurize%20Carburetor%20R1.html And general info on turbo'ing bikes: http://www.unclebobsturbos.com/newbie.html Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Hi, my name is Dave and I'm really close to getting my car running on R1 carbs! I'd like to add boost once I get them dailed in and I'm really interested in how your R1 carbs run with boost. I've done some research on turbo'ed r1's and I know you need to reference the diaphram and float bowls to manifold pressure. You also need a fuel regulator that is referenced to boost and increases fuel psi on a 1:1 ratio relative to boost psi. This way you're you are able to keep jetting close to stock (on a bike, that is) and fueling directly increases in relation to boost pressure. How did you set up your carbs to accept boost??? Any help would be much appreciated. Here's a turbo R1 and needs to be boost referenced on the carb - http://www.turbo-bik...retor%20R1.html And general info on turbo'ing bikes: http://www.unclebobs...com/newbie.html So far, boost lines to the diaphram vents, and float bowl vents, jets are drilled to 1.9mm, screws 3 turns out, and needles shimmed up a little. VERY IMPORTANT the plastic t's that pressure the bowls need to have zip ties put on either side of the t. otherwise boost pressure leaks out there, doesnt pressurize the bowls, and wont run under boost. simple as that. easy right? I have not put a boost sensitive regulator on yet, although i think im going to have to if i dont want it to run lean under boost. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 So i was standing in the shop today, and i had to move my z around a bit to clean and stuff. but anyway i started thinking....(always ends badly)....I have a LT1 all rebuilt with fuel injection and what not. but i was thinking how cool would it be to run 2 sets of r1 carbs... Obviously the hardest part would be making the intake manifold, but what do you think id have to do for jetting? everyone runs em on 1.6 and 2.2 or 2.4 liters but what about a 5.7?? It wouldnt happen for quite sometime but hey any input would be great! and it really really would simplify my elctrical and tuning and wire harness, i hate that kinda stuff. (of course it would get twin turbos down he road, done nicer, cleaner and right, unlike the 510 lol) Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 So i was standing in the shop today, and i had to move my z around a bit to clean and stuff. but anyway i started thinking....(always ends badly)....I have a LT1 all rebuilt with fuel injection and what not. but i was thinking how cool would it be to run 2 sets of r1 carbs... Obviously the hardest part would be making the intake manifold, but what do you think id have to do for jetting? everyone runs em on 1.6 and 2.2 or 2.4 liters but what about a 5.7?? It wouldnt happen for quite sometime but hey any input would be great! and it really really would simplify my elctrical and tuning and wire harness, i hate that kinda stuff. (of course it would get twin turbos down he road, done nicer, cleaner and right, unlike the 510 lol) so, 5.7l / 8 = 0.71l per cyl 2.0l / 4 = 0.5l per cyl... They are saying 1.8 jet for 2.0l 4 cyl, 1.9 or 2.0 jet for 2.2l ? so a 2.2 jet or something would work. Makes sense to me, maybe someone who has done it before can give you a good starting point. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I picked up a set of R-1s at Canby. Thanks to DeliveryDave. Can't wait to get them home and start messin with them. 2 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 so, 5.7l / 8 = 0.71l per cyl 2.0l / 4 = 0.5l per cyl... They are saying 1.8 jet for 2.0l 4 cyl, 1.9 or 2.0 jet for 2.2l ? so a 2.2 jet or something would work. Makes sense to me, maybe someone who has done it before can give you a good starting point. I was thinkin the same thing. Spudly, don't think of it as how many carbs for a large displacement motor. Think of it as one carb per cylinder. If a four barrel holley is standard procedure, then 8 barrels of bike carbs otta cover it.............. :D 1 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I picked up a set of R-1s at Canby. Thanks to DeliveryDave. Can't wait to get them home and start messin with them. VERY nice!! BTW, it was me that asked you for allen wrenches in the back of the camp ground. We were trying desperately to get my wheels to fit 68Datsun510's car by adjusting his rear camber. We traded wheels. See! looks good eh ? :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I had some but the bolt came apart and they spilled into the bottom of my tool box.... and it was nice to meet you. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 VintageRice they do look better than the meshies on your car Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Well not knowing if there is some crazy formula to figure out jet size, you can use simple math. Using the numbers provided, a 2.4L would require 2.0 size jets. Now there could be a non-linear function of air/fuel consumption warranting larger ones, but if its linear than 2.0 is all thats needed. Pretty sure the 2.4 would still just require a 1.6 mm jet, provided you're running one carb per cylinder. The cylinders are the same size as the 1.6 4 cylinder, there's just two extra cylinders. Errr, y'all were talking about the KA24 weren't you...my bad. Never mind. Quote Link to comment
mobilejoe Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 does anyone have a z24 template for the intake flange?? Quote Link to comment
Drummerboy4as Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Got my manifold from Bogg Bros this morning and it is absolutely gorgeous. If you guys are wondering what your $400 gets you, check out my crappy pictures. 3 Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 it sure is pretty, lol but for 400 bucks ill stick with my free homemade one! haha Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator This mallory fuel pressure regulator is our most popular regulator for several reasons. Its good price, readily available, and can be used in a wide variety of applications! It also it has a 1-1 boost reference for turbo charged, or supercharged applications to prevent fuel starvation common with a static (non rising) fuel pressure regulator. This regulator is designed for carbureted fuel systems and is adjustable from 4 psi to 40 psi fuel pressure, and with the boost reference line hooked up the fuel pressure will raise 1 pound (fuel pressure) for every pound of boost to prevent fuel starvation by keeping the correct pressure in the carburetor at all times. Im not sure where else to ask this....hopefully someone here can help. now these are designed to prevent fuel startvation by increasing the fuel presssure with boost. makes sense. my question is this. you run boost lines to the float bowls and they pressurize the bowls, allowing fuel to flow thru the jet so the boost doesnt push back through instead. now so long as your not running out of gas, you dont need one of these regulators to increase pressure with boost right? or am i thinking about it wrong. does the added regulator pressure somehow force more fuel through the jet and into the motor under boost? or is the pressure strictly just to get the fuel into the bowl? if thats the case i dont think i need one? this sounds confusing and hopefully someone understands what im talking about! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 It's to keep the float chamber in the carb full. Lets say your fuel pump is set for 3 PSI for non boost and you are running a blow through turbo set up where the carb(s) are in a box under pressure. When the boost rises to 3 PSI or higher, the pump will not be able to push any fuel into the bowl. You need to increase the fuel pump pressure in such a way that it's 3 PSI above the boost pressure. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 It's to keep the float chamber in the carb full. Lets say your fuel pump is set for 3 PSI for non boost and you are running a blow through turbo set up where the carb(s) are in a box under pressure. When the boost rises to 3 PSI or higher, the pump will not be able to push any fuel into the bowl. You need to increase the fuel pump pressure in such a way that it's 3 PSI above the boost pressure. Okay, soooo if my bowls dont run dry under boost, i should be good? or does it also help enrichen the fuel mixture? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 No, only to keep the carbs full. To adjust the air/fuel ratio you change the needles or jets. Your carbs are going to run dry with almost any boost. A 3 PSI fuel pump is not going to fill a carb that has 4 PSI pushing back the other way. You do NOT want it running out of fuel. A rich fuel mixture under load is what helps cool the hot cylinder and prevent detonation. A sudden lean can cause a backfire through the intake. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 No, only to keep the carbs full. To adjust the air/fuel ratio you change the needles or jets. tuning the carbs N/a is easy. Its basically the same as my 2 stroke quad carb just 4 of em. i get the basics of tuning. whats throwing me off is the boost. and everyone keeps saying well you need an fpr. But if it doesnt enrichen the mixture and my bowls dont run dry under long pulls, (i know im getting reptative) i shouldnt need one. correct? Sorry to clutter the r1 thread with stupid tuning questions. Meybe i should get an old book on needle profiling and go to town..... Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Your carbs will run dry under boost if you dont pressurized the bowls and diaphragms with the boost pressure. (from what I understand) Find a company that sells, (or used to sell) turbo kits for the RX1 snowmobile and call them.. Same carbs and tons of people turboed those sleds(waaaaaaaaaay more than bike people) You got this bro! ps.....I got parentheses happy(o well) Quote Link to comment
NKrader Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 why only use r1 carb? you could get better flow from a bigger cc bike? correct me if im wrong. http://www.ebay.com/...973ae76&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX14-ZX1400-1400-CARBURETOR-CARB-CARBS-/130711700655?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f0644af&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment
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