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Also, of minor note, there seems to be some discrepancy on the flywheel bolts. Manual and auto bolts appear to be the same part number from Dodge, but a majority of the internet seems to think they are different. Also, the internet seems evenly divided about whether they should be reused at all. So...

 

ARP makes some nice upgraded bolts for about the same price as OEM bolts...

 

image.jpeg.42d947e053af78a51eb14a840b60956a.jpeg

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On 6/27/2022 at 7:03 AM, datsunfreak said:

image.jpeg.42d947e053af78a51eb14a840b60956a.jpeg

 

 

I have not slept well ever since John posted this picture.  I hope it is a bad perspective issue, but they look awfully short to me.  First thing I am going to do tomorrow is compare the length to the thickness of the flywheel.  Yes, they are the bolts I asked John to buy.  If they are wrong, it's totally on me.

 

Second thing will be to look for a 12 point socket!

 

Edited by dimlight65
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19 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

I have not slept well ever since John posted this picture.  I hope it is a bad perspective issue, but they look awfully short to me.  First thing I am going to do tomorrow is compare the length to the thickness of the flywheel.  Yes, they are the bolts I asked John to buy.  If they are wrong, it's totally on me.

 

They are not especially thick in the center? We shall see...

 

s-l500.jpg

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22 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

 

 

I hope it is a bad perspective issue, but they look awfully short to me. 

 

 

 

 

I didn't comment on it when I first saw them, but I was thinking the same thing.  They do look a bit short, but I don't know what your old ones look like at all..

 

 

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7 hours ago, Duncan said:

 

I didn't comment on it when I first saw them, but I was thinking the same thing.  They do look a bit short, but I don't know what your old ones look like at all..

 

 

 

We compared them to the flywheel.  They still look too short to me, but there will be 7/16" of thread engagement on a 7/16" diameter bolt.  John preaches "One diameter's equivalant in thread engagement is the minimum" every time the "Hmm, that bolt/stud looks too short" issue arises. 

 

Also, this is what ARP says is the right bolt set for a Manuel transmission small block Dodge V8.  So I'm not going to worry about it anymore.* 

 

Also also, we don't know how deep the holes in the crank are.  This might be all the depth we have.

 

Also also also, I do have a 12 point socket.

 

 

 

*Which is to say, I'm totally going to worry about it until the end of time, of course.

Edited by dimlight65
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New speedo came in...

 

image.jpeg.43513cdb6ddf6253e73cd5687d02b173.jpeg

 

 

 

We took a look at fitting it in the dash, but didn't like mounting it out in front of the stock speedo because it kinda looked like butt. So I says to Tim I says, wonder how tough it is to just remove the speedo from the cluster?

 

 

Got the gauge cluster out easily, removed the clear cover, and Tim set to work removing the stock speedo, which was surprisingly easy...

 

image.jpeg.9de5814a7f19824bc9151637a3c4787c.jpeg

 

 

 

New speedo seems to be a good depth for the cluster housing, but we need to make an intermediate piece (which you will see shortly), and possibly trim a few key spots on the back side for clearance...

 

image.jpeg.ad66edff7e64f46aa5cefc84cca1828d.jpeg

 

 

 

Should hopefully have that piece made before Saturday to reassemble it all and reinstall the cluster. 👍

 

 

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18 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

John preaches "One diameter's equivalant in thread engagement is the minimum" every time the "Hmm, that bolt/stud looks too short" issue arises. 

 

FWIW...

 

https://www.nord-lock.com/insights/bolting-tips/2015/the-experts-thread-engagement-in-a-tapped-hole/#:~:text=It is commonly known that,the nominal diameter in aluminum.

 

Quote

It is commonly known that the minimum recommended thread engagement to make a strong connection for a component with a tapped hole is approximately 1 times the nominal diameter in steel, and 2 times the nominal diameter in aluminum. 

 

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On 1/18/2020 at 3:44 PM, datsunfreak said:

Needs "more low" ..... . . jus' kidding'; It's stance is perfect!

 

Vicdat

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1 hour ago, vicdat said:

Needs "more low" ..... . . jus' kidding'; It's stance is perfect!

 

Vicdat

 

Thank you sir!  [Sorry to assume your gender but 1) I'm old and B) I'm from Texas]  I think I told the story when we first got it low but, I remember the night we flipped the axle and took it off the jackstands for the first time.  I eased the jack down and the rear bumper equivalent just kept going lower and lower!  I just stood there and laughed.  "I don't care if it is undriveable," I said to john.  "We have to get the front that low!"  Eventually, we did.

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12 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

I remember the night we flipped the axle and took it off the jackstands for the first time.  I eased the jack down and the rear bumper equivalent just kept going lower and lower until the gas tank pinned the jack under the van and we had to struggle to get it out, and then it went even lower when we did get it out

 

Addendum. 😄

Edited by datsunfreak
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On 6/29/2022 at 7:41 PM, dimlight65 said:

 

John preaches "One diameter's equivalant in thread engagement is the minimum" every time the "Hmm, that bolt/stud looks too short" issue arises. 

Also, this is what ARP says is the right bolt set for a Manuel transmission small block Dodge V8.  So I'm not going to worry about it anymore.*

 

Better a bit too short than too long.  With the fine thread pitch, a dab of blue Loctite, and torqued to proper specs, I'd be doing 5k rpm clutch dumps and burnouts for days...😁

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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On 7/1/2022 at 9:33 AM, Duncan said:

Better a bit too short than too long.  With the fine thread pitch, a dab of blue Loctite, and torqued to proper specs

 

This has been another internal debate. It comes with some sort of assembly lube you are supposed to use instead of loctite?

 

I have personally never used Loctite on a flywheel, and (anecdotally) never seen one come loose. But will concede that it sounds like a good idea. 

Edited by datsunfreak
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22 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

This has been another internal debate. It come with some sort of assembly lube you are supposed to use instead of loctite?

 

I have personally never used Loctite on a flywheel, and (anecdotally) never seen one come loose. But will concede that it sounds like a good idea. 

 

I watch a lot of Motortrend (formerly Velocity) shows, and I started noticing most of those shops were using blue loctite on the flywheel bolts.  I've used the blue stuff before on other bolts, and it's not terribly difficult to remove them. The Red is another story. 

 

I had the motor out of my first yellow 1200 Coupe and did a clutch since it was there and accessible.  Didn't use it on that and had no problems.

 

I just figured why not with the wagon.  Cheap insurance.  I've never used any sealer or adhesive spray on a head gasket and never had any problems there, either. 

 

With or without, I'm sure it will be fine...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I was sort of successful in debiggening the speedo hole in the cluster face, also decided some wrinkle finish black was in order...

 

image.jpeg.12cd9647d42d55f1fdfa458562ac7b47.jpeg

 

 

Test fit in the housing...

 

image.jpeg.efdc66fbb52daf143171a41a3509aad2.jpeg

 

 

Tim decided to get some LED lights for it in purple, so we had to dig out several of these blue bulb covers that are buried down inside the housing...

 

image.jpeg.d1dd6ea2e02ec49823c5a45b07a05256.jpeg

 

 

We also got it up on stands, removed the driveshaft, removed the trans cooler and lines, removed the starter, removed the trans harness and kickdown cable, removed the doghouse and shifter cable, and about half the bolts holding the trans in. We had to stop there because 1) it's hot as balls, and B) we do not have the right socket for the crank pulley bolt. 

 

If you have ever removed an automatic, you know you have to be able to rotate the engine to get all the flywheel-to-torque converter bolts out. I got two out, but could not spin the engine over to get the other two out. We will also need it to be able to torque down the new flywheel. We should have that for next time, though. So as it stands, we are about 30 minutes from removing the autotragic for good...   😈

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2 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

...we do not have the right socket for the crank pulley bolt. 

 

We should have that for next time

 

It is sitting in the front seat of the Smart as we spea... uhh, type?

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I probably shouldn't post this until we have one more look at clearance issues but...

 

There are two bolts per manifold on the zorst that are not clamping at all.  The washer just spins free under the head of the bolt.  So I'm thinking now is the time for:

 

image.thumb.png.70ab7ca0a040bc38b3d7e1afc9b3521b.png

 

We have some header paint that we could bake on ourselves, but ~$90 for ceramic coating sounds... well, it sounds like a cheap-assed ceramic coat, now that I think about it.  I don't know.  We will grok the space available and come to the decision I have probably already made.

Edited by dimlight65
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And screw it!  These supposubly bolt right up to the stock zorst, and are half the price.  I ordered a set.

 

image.thumb.png.2def673175d03dddced29f855061808b.png

 

That's right, I said "supposubly."

 

 

Edited by dimlight65
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13 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

There are two bolts per manifold on the zorst that are not clamping at all

If memory serves me correctly (and that's a stretch these days) some of the zorst bolts go through the water jacket on Mopar blocks???? Bolt depth is pretty critical.

 

Again, memory being what it is, I had a motorhome with a 440 and the stock manifolds were notorious for cracking.

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10 minutes ago, EDM620 said:

If memory serves me correctly (and that's a stretch these days) some of the zorst bolts go through the water jacket on Mopar blocks???? Bolt depth is pretty critical.

 

Again, memory being what it is, I had a motorhome with a 440 and the stock manifolds were notorious for cracking.

 

Well, that might also explain where coolant is going.  I guess if it pees when we remove bolts, we'll know.

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I never liked that about Mopar blocks. If you still have all the original bolts, some (all?) have a narrowed shoulder to reduce the water flow restriction. Not these ones apparently...

image.png.dcb37527476eca791addabce59a9adf7.png

Per MOPAR:

Description:
This Mopar manifold bolt (6510140AA) keeps the exhaust manifold of your vehicle in place. These exhaust manifold replacement bolts are three inches long and an inch wide, making the parts a perfect fit for your car. 
Your exhaust manifold is often exposed to extreme temperatures during operation. The part will expand as it quickly heats up, pressurizing the manifold bolts. The constant expansion and contraction of your manifolds can damage the bolts and fasteners over time.

Quote

While a loose or broken exhaust manifold bolt will not cause your antifreeze to leak into the oil, it can cause your manifold head to crack and start leaking

. Change your loose manifold bolts to ensure the safety and optimal performance of your ride.

 

Gee thanks Mopar.

 

 

 

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Well, EDM620 is not making me feel confident!  But we'll move on and hope for the best until the worst occurs!

 

Ok, I ran over to the shop to take a few pictures for y'all (It was hot as balls yesterday and we just forgot to take pix.  Deal with it!)

 

So...

Van on stands

IMG_20220703_153456068_HDR.thumb.jpg.c62c431678602b956483f3a7762a5a62.jpg

 

Zorst removed

IMG_20220703_152917662.thumb.jpg.1fd4ca36240f871ee1b5b675f974bd62.jpg

 

Starter removed

 

IMG_20220703_153011723.thumb.jpg.7091ad7719be38cfd6b58a6071825d17.jpg

 

Trans cooler removed

 

IMG_20220703_152938529.thumb.jpg.7f5550eb6166214449da3eb042393de3.jpg

 

Doghouse w/shifter removed

 

IMG_20220703_152903018_HDR.thumb.jpg.dcc00eb605bee3b781f990489ff26313.jpg

 

And driveshaft removed

 

IMG_20220703_153039118.thumb.jpg.d39e9a0886ca8e5b660453496b8f49cf.jpg

 

Then I had a look at the space between the doghouse and the zorst manifolds.  The passenger side appears to be plenty spacious, but the driver's side is too tight for the Amazon headers.  Therefore, I trekked over to Summit Racing and bought...

 

IMG_20220703_165441173_HDR.thumb.jpg.b99d0d5888e2333509705d5756fbdb00.jpg

 

Ceramic coated, block hugger headers!  We're going to have to have that zorst reconfigured but, look at them!

Edited by dimlight65
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13 minutes ago, dimlight65 said:

We're going to have to have that zorst reconfigured

 

And speaking of that, do I want to use this merge thingy to delete the cat at that time?

 

 

IMG_20220703_153354673.jpg

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