What model Weber is this?

[530-521]

Also- what air cleaner would you guys recommend. Not really liking what was on there.

 

[530-521]

This is what it was

[datzenmike]

Probably a 32/36 progressive. Got a shot of the rear to confirm?

[wayno]

If your looking for something stock looking just try to find a stock air filter housing from the that era, then cut a hole in the bottom of the air filter housing just inside the filter element boundary and tack weld the bottom piece you have now into that housing like I did in the photos below.

 

See the rubber ring at around 11:00 in the photo above, that is where the valve cover vent enters the air filter housing on my truck, I made this myself and it was the best I could do, it enters on the outside of the air filter which is not the best but I had little choice.

 

Edited May 20, 2019 by wayno

[530-521]

Here’s a shot of the rear

[datzenmike]

32/36.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks like a 32 36 that was a elelctric choke converted bak to a manual choke

 

 

nothing wrong with the aircleaner you have

[datzenmike]

On a basic level that air cleaner works but a later stock housing converted, allows you to run a later ATC (air temperature control) on the snorkel that mixes air warmed by the exhaust and cold outside air from in front of the rad that is stabilized at around 90-100F. The engine runs like it's spring even in below zero weather that would cause carburetor icing and is immune to over 200F under hood temperatures in the summer that can cause vapor lock. True, it's easier to do nothing.

[Charlie69]

Weber stamps the base of the carb with the model and the size.  All the guys above are correct.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Modifying any stock type air filter housing looks the best, in my opinion. Plus, you get the large filter with more surface area than the Weber style filter.

 

This is the housing I made for my 320. I used a Chevy valve cover grommet and a slip in nipple from NAPA for the breather.

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2019 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[530-521]

I’m really liking the idea of a stock air cleaner housing... the bottom plate of what I currently have is aluminum, so I’ll have to fab something up from scratch. No big deal... a bigger deal is finding a stock housing....

[mainer311]

I recently found one here, but I have no idea if the guy is willing to split it up or even ship it. 

 

https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/glastonbury-datsun-1600-engine-and/6877650068.html

[datzenmike]

36 minutes ago, 530-521 said:

I’m really liking the idea of a stock air cleaner housing... the bottom plate of what I currently have is aluminum, so I’ll have to fab something up from scratch. No big deal... a bigger deal is finding a stock housing....

 

Doesn't have to be strictly stock. Could be any Datsun filter. Perhaps from '73/'74 on up that have the ATC and the two sensors inside? Highly advise this if in SD where carb icing at near zero could be a problem.

[banzai510(hainz)]

530 521

remember if you use the stock aircleaner that you have the tall carb adapter which moves everthing up and the hood might hit the aircleaner.will for sure on a L20 as that is even taller. I just cant remember how close it is, you might be fine. some people have the thin adapter 1/4inch you have the  1piece 1.5 inch one looks like to me

Edited May 20, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

OP isn't in South Dakota, he's in NorCal, so icing won't be a problem.

[datzenmike]

Right, I wonder who's in SD. Does it get withing several degrees if freezing? Freezing rain? Near freezing and fog? It will still run better.

[Charlie69]

11 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Weber stamps the base of the carb with the model and the size.  All the guys above are correct.

Here are a couple of pictures.  My auto focus did not work.

 

 

 

[G-Duax]

9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

OP isn't in South Dakota, he's in NorCal, so icing won't be a problem.

 

Ha, I live in S. Texas, and thought that also.

Then back in February, on my way home from work in the wee hours of the morning, temp about 30, after running 20 miles on Interstate-10 at about 4800 rpm, I let off the throttle for my exit, and nope, throttle wouldn't close !

Hit the ignition switch, and kicked it into neutral, coasted to the stop sign, then let engine heat thaw my carb out, and every thing was just fine.

First time in 35 years down here that it happened, but being from Wisconsin, I knew what to do...

[datzenmike]

Gas absorbs heat to evaporate. If near freezing it can chill the casting well below freezing and if there is high humidity it will collect frost just like a freezer. On my engine, the venturi was covered and that destroyed the vacuum signal that pulls gas in. Power drops off and your foot goes slowly to the floor till it quits. It will restart and idle just fine but you can't drive away. Within a minute suddenly it's fine and you drive away only to have it repeat again in a couple of blocks. The coolant warmed intake doesn't help as it can't warm the carburetor. The only way is to add heat to the intake air via the ATC.

 

I find freezing rain, fog near freezing or melting snow near freezing provide the two things needed, cold and humidity.

[Charlie69]

I had problems years ago with my Harleys running SUs.  I would get up in the high country and the SU would start frosting up.  When it got bad I would do like G-Duax said and pull over and let the heat of the engine thaw out the carb.  Had this problem running Webers on my Harleys also.

[jbirds510]

On 5/21/2019 at 7:40 AM, Charlie69 said:

I had problems years ago with my Harleys running SUs.  I would get up in the high country and the SU would start frosting up.  When it got bad I would do like G-Duax said and pull over and let the heat of the engine thaw out the carb.  Had this problem running Webers on my Harleys also.

Had bendix carbs do it also on old shovels and baby dels on vw’s

[Charlie69]

Come to mention it I had Dels on a couple of my bikes a 66 shovel and a 57 pan that both frosted up in high altitude.