demo243 Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Been following this kinda on an off for a while... and I'm sure you mention it somewhere - but what size carbs are you running? 40s or 45s ? Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted November 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 They are 45s.. brand new ones from worldpac/Redline Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 1 hour ago, alexg89 said: They are 45s.. brand new ones from worldpac/Redline 👍 I was clicking through one of your links and they were all referring to 40's so I got a little nervous you might be undercarbed... but 45s should be fine. Im running 44s on my twin cam KA. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted November 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 good deal, i think im gonna go down to the 34mm chokes and see if that helps.. the issue im having is its leaning and poping right off idle .. like as soon as i crack the throttle Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 (edited) Guess I never posted these--- Here is what I am running in my Mikuni 44s on my KA24DE - obviously a different set up on different carbs, but could be a good reference point. My KA is bored out with forged internals but at a stock 9-9.5 compression. I got these specs from Duke who is running basically the same set up on his KA24DE 44 Mikuni Jetting - KA24DE 37mm Venturi 160 Main Fuel 250 Air 57.5 Pilot 40 Pump Edited November 7, 2019 by demo243 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted November 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 yah thats a little different then what i have.. i messed around and changed alot of things.. believe currently i have 150 mains, 180 air 45 pump, 55f8 idles and the newest emulsion tubes.. could be wrong... havnt messed with it much .. throttle cable messed up so im waiting on a new one Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Havnt messed with the truck in a while.. i did how ever get a better sync tool to try and get everything closer.. also i think i may have figured out a remedy for the lean issue at transition. Im gonna get a bigger pump jet and see how that helps.. currently though if i let it sit and idle it almost loads up and if i give it to much gas leaving a light itll break up so im thinking its a rich miss.. its hard to tell cause idk what im doing lol but heres a video i took last night of the sync tool 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Yes, sounds like larger pump nozzles would do the trick. Then you can lean everything else out to get rid of that stumble. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 56 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Yes, sounds like larger pump nozzles would do the trick. Then you can lean everything else out to get rid of that stumble. i have 45s in it now.. what do you think i should go up to ? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 One step is always safe. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 well ive found a vacuum leak recently .. the boots i have that hold the intake together are leaking.. new boots come in today https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=601 What is a good way to seal these to the intake itself? clamps are clearly going to be on there but should i use hair spray to get it to seal or something? Any old school tricks? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 It's a hose, use hose clamps. After it warms up and the hose softens re-check the tightness. Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Im aware but the runners are not exactly round That and the studs/hardware are very close to the clamp so its even harder to get it to have a good bite Edited January 21, 2020 by alexg89 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 Just turn the screw side of the clamp around farthest from the stud. O* *O O* *O 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 21, 2020 Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) 38 minutes ago, alexg89 said: well ive found a vacuum leak recently .. the boots i have that hold the intake together are leaking.. new boots come in today Big mistake......... Silicone does not get along with any petroleum product. Plain old radiator hose will mot start to disintegrate, silicone will not stand up, not even on valve cover breathers. Have used radiator hose for decades, and is cheap, just buy a strait piece at any auto store, and cut it into sections. Edited January 21, 2020 by G-Duax 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2020 3 minutes ago, G-Duax said: Have used radiator hose for decades, and is cheap, just buy a strait piece at any auto store, and cut it into sections. Interesting .. ive never heard of that.. Figured if i bought the "application specific" part it should work lol But the ones i ordered originally were just a piece of hose i bought and cut into sections https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB23JAS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 well check this out.. G-duax you were 100000% Correct.. unreal Would it make a difference if i ran non ethanol?? Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Don't think so, as engine oil vapors kept penetrating the silicone crank case vent hoses on my Toyota. Oil droplets would form on the outside of the hose. Had to finally accept that I couldn't run the pretty hose, and just went back to plain old black hose. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 well that stinks.. maybe ill try to run it more often then not.. fingers crossed it lasts till i can have the intake welded togheter Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) So question here and im sure you guys are tired of me i have the smallest idle jet in that i have .. a 55f8. With the 45dcoe 152s the mixture screws are to be out about 3-3.5 turns which they are If i let this thing sit and idle at a stop light it loads up so bad it wants to stall out.. What am i missing here because based off of this chart im under what im supposed to be if im at 2400ccs https://cnx.org/contents/oKbaEWQ3@2/Selection-and-Tuning-of-Weber-DCOE-Carburetors found info here Engine size (cc) Idle jet size 1600 40/45 1800 45/50 2000 50/55 2100 55/60 I love trying to figure this thing out but im fuc*&ng stumped here. Rich idle but as soon as the throttle is cracked it leans all the way out and under WOT its pig rich? someone come to central florida and help lol Edited January 23, 2020 by alexg89 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 So when you say as soon as the throttle cracks it goes lean.... for how long? Is it during a certain rpm or more pedal position? I may have a different comment depending on those answers.... But my first thought is to turn the air fuel screws in a bit to lean out the idle..... Then you can determine more from there.... You might even try going to about 2 to 2.5 turns out and a 60f8 idle jet... I'm still thinking the emulsion tube might be the next thing to look at.... Different tubes would allow the main to come in sooner.... If the wot and high rpms are rich that going to be your air corrector.... Bigger will lean that part out..... How is part throttle cruising? Any how start at the idle circuit (again) Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) ok so first 15 percent of throttle im gonna guess is lean i cant cruise between 25-50 without it leaning completely out and popping Its either WOT or cruise at 70 everywhere i may try to go up a little on the idle land lean out the screw. I dont recall what air corrector is. its supposed to be main jet + 50 but i think its under sized for sure and i went with an f8 emulsion tube if i remember correctly Edited January 23, 2020 by alexg89 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 11 minutes ago, alexg89 said: ok so first 15 percent of throttle im gonna guess is lean i cant cruise between 25-50 without it leaning completely out and popping Its either WOT or cruise at 70 everywhere i may try to go up a little on the idle land lean out the screw. I dont recall what air corrector is. its supposed to be main jet + 50 but i think its under sized for sure and i went with an f8 emulsion tube if i remember correctly Dont even worry about that +50 between the main and the air fuel.... it more of a baseline..... Maybe try leaning out the air screw first.... Dont change the idle jet yet.... But try 1 bigger on the main.... See what that does..... Dont worry about the air corrector for now.... changing the main will affect that... if its extremely rich on the top.... then go a couple sizes bigger for now... I hate to sound like a broken record but if you keep chasing this around you really need to think about some different emulsion tubes..... I think I made a recommendation on which ones to try.... Also if you have some old tubes you can try making a custom set. Quote Link to comment
alexg89 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Dont even worry about that +50 between the main and the air fuel.... it more of a baseline..... Maybe try leaning out the air screw first.... Dont change the idle jet yet.... But try 1 bigger on the main.... See what that does..... Dont worry about the air corrector for now.... changing the main will affect that... if its extremely rich on the top.... then go a couple sizes bigger for now... I hate to sound like a broken record but if you keep chasing this around you really need to think about some different emulsion tubes..... I think I made a recommendation on which ones to try.... Also if you have some old tubes you can try making a custom set. Bigger on the mains??? wont That make it more rich??? the larger the number on the mains means more fuel am i correct? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 23, 2020 Report Share Posted January 23, 2020 Yes but your middle is lean.... You can richen it with the main and then lean out the top with the air corrector.... This is why I mention the emulsion tube... the mains and air correctors kind up create this upper fuel curve... A different tube will move that whole curve closer to the transition.... Quote Link to comment
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