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alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

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Did you watch the Pierce DVD and do the calcs for your particular motor for initial jet and venture sizing? Also the explanation and demonstration he has for the accelerator pump circuit is very telling. Pain in the az to make changes to that circuit butttt

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1 hour ago, docbainey said:

Did you watch the Pierce DVD and do the calcs for your particular motor for initial jet and venture sizing? Also the explanation and demonstration he has for the accelerator pump circuit is very telling. Pain in the az to make changes to that circuit butttt

i have watched about 20 minutes of it .. was able to get the idle right with the air bypass jets and shutting the butterfly more but have not go to the accelerator pump circuit yet 

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little update.. went up again on the idle jets and mains, added some more timing and it seems to like it .. can actually drive it down the road without it bucking but theres still some what of a lean spot in the transition .. 

 

 

 

 

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19 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

little update.. went up again on the idle jets and mains, added some more timing and it seems to like it .. can actually drive it down the road without it bucking but theres still some what of a lean spot in the transition .. 

 

 

 

 

Does it stay lean or is it just a quick spike as you shift?

 

I've read the quick spikes are some what normal.... 

On the cooler mornings and when my engine is cold I'll get some lean issues but once its warmed up it's all good....

 

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This was posted by distributorguy on another engine thread....

I think its one of the best and simplest description of the weber circuits.....

Might help you too...

 

Screenshot-20190725-100135-Chrome.jpg

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Its like a quick spike.. its literally right as you crack the throttle .. if its in my driveway warming up and i go to pull out the driveway itll pop back throw the intake and stumble..

 

I really wonder if i need smaller chokes.. because if im in 1st or 2nd at about 3500ish and just stab the gas itll lean out and flutter like its not getting gas then itll take off ..

 

I wonder if its not getting enough air velocity you know? if i where to bring the choke size down from 36 to like 35 or 34 maybe itll speed up the air in it and help with that 

 

I dont know though.. not sure if that would remedy it .. im getting closer i know that much 

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Kinda put the truck on the back burner and just been driving it .. got a new toy and have been messing with that lol

GXwtWBL.jpg

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Alrighty well today i went ahead and ordered up an O&J stage 2 cam and some new valve springs .. I have an extra head at the house i think im gonna have my KA wizard go through and clean it up .. soak the rockers and get them moving good again and ill be on my way to a choppy KA.. then the tuning will begin all over again  MEH

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Pretty sure i got scammed but im gonna go back over a few things, check timing again and probably pull the cam back out and mic it 

This thing sounds stock and the but dyno dosnt feel a thing.. OJ stage 2 i think not 

 

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Ive heard good and bad.. sucky thing is i got this second hand forma guy .. pretty sure he stuck it to me 

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I got a hold of the actual company that sells the cam.. They said if it is there cam it should have a number 2 on the front of it.. so tonight i shall find out if i got bent over or not 

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Heres a cold start from yesterday .. i really think it should make some noise.. I get that its a low compression motor but this thing sounds just to plain for it to be any kind of aftermarket cam.. Video the guy sent me of it running in his 240 even had some chop to it .. 

 

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Trying to diagnose cam size by exhaust sound is fruitless. A louder muffler would add 300 more overlap and 0.080" lift.

 

 

Maybe the seller was stiffed and is only selling you what he believes to be true. It really is: "let the buyer beware" and the onus is on the buyer to know what you are buying is truthful. 

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4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 A louder muffler would add 300 more overlap and 0.080" lift.

 

Not sure i follow what your saying .

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Going by sound my L16 521 on cold start up sounded like it had a race cam in it.😄

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well the cam is in fact correct .. im almost wondering if i got the cam off a tooth because low end is real terrible but up top is pretty responsive .. it wont hardly idle 

 

looks like i need to tear things back apart and start over with getting crank and cam lined up properly and re timed..

When i popped the new cam in i dont think i had in set correctly 😒

 

Yay

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A retarded cam will (very generally) favor high RPM cylinder filling at the expense of low speed. This allows the crank shaft to run farther ahead of the cam and all cam events, but specially a  later closing of the intake. This is what happens on an L series when the timing chain and sprockets wear or the head is milled. 

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yah thats what i have read.. I can order an adjustable cam gear so i can mess with it a little more but before i do that im gonna make sure i have everything in correct

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So since this damn hurricane never came close to us on the space coast i was able to work on the truck in some wind

Pulled the crank pulley off an lined up all the marks and all is good, even tried going forward a tooth and backward a tooth on the cam to see if i could get it to act differently but nothing came of that 

Unfortunately i dropped the key way in the oil pan so that created  a new problem.

Dropped the cross member so i could get it out, pretty sure i bent the pan wear it mates to the block because now its dumping oil everywhere

 

Gonna wait till i get my head back and just pull the motor and re do everything.. Im about over this thing

 

Has 0 power on the down low and im wondering if the cam is just to much .. i tried dicking with the jets but cant get anywhere

 

This thing has become quite the nagging old bitch i never wanted 

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So you tried three different cam sprocket positions and still not happy with it?

 

Something's not right.

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52 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

So you tried three different cam sprocket positions and still not happy with it?

 

Something's not right.

Correct, i have it where it needs to be and the low end for the cam just isnt there .. which i expected but the top end isnt there either 

 

 

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On 4/30/2019 at 12:43 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

We also fully counterweighted and knife edged the cranks, used Carrillo rods, dry sump pumps and custom Fluid Damper harmonic balancers, 0-ringed the blocks, built custom dual row timing chain setups, modified the rockers to delete the hydraulic adjusters with threaded "elephant's foot" adjuster, etc. There were many mods that needed to be made just in the name of stability. Even with all these mods, the motors only lasted about 4 races.

Since you seem to have wide spread knowledge on these Single cam KAs.. when i get my head back i plan to pull the motor and kinda re fresh it a little

Head will be Ported, polished, and decked 

 

I want to bump the compression up some also.. What kind of pistons would be a good go to .. CP, JE.. im not sure what is really out there to be honest . .kinda looking for some guidance 

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