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alexg89

KA with sidedrafts

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I feel like the gauge is good though.. with key on engine off its at 19.. fire it up and it goes from 12 down to 9.. between shifts it leans up a little .. but maybe im wrong 

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4 hours ago, alexg89 said:

I feel like the gauge is good though.. with key on engine off its at 19.. fire it up and it goes from 12 down to 9.. between shifts it leans up a little .. but maybe im wrong 

 

It was just a though of something to check and make sure.... 

 

Your spark plug looks good to me...

I think It looks similar to what mine looked like the other day and depending on my foot I'm basically around 12 to 14 on my air/fuel.....

 

Maybe try warming the motor and then pull the plug after you see your gauge drop to 9.....

 

 

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maybe ill try that.. and what about this .. the truck never really runs hot ever.. like my gauge barley comes off of Cold .. should it be hotter? like does that matter.. 

 

I feel like my thermostat may be stuck and i should probably put a new one in it like i never have to turn on my fans unless i have the ac on or im in traffic for more then 10 minutes 

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27 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

maybe ill try that.. and what about this .. the truck never really runs hot ever.. like my gauge barley comes off of Cold .. should it be hotter? like does that matter.. 

 

I feel like my thermostat may be stuck and i should probably put a new one in it like i never have to turn on my fans unless i have the ac on or im in traffic for more then 10 minutes 

 

That might matter.... 

While your not hurting your engine you might not be at optimal running temperature  .... 

 

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Looks like you're running a projected tip spark plug. Those are known to cause detonation (pinging). I would swap in something else like an NGK B6ES or whatever heat range is closest to what you're using.

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This is the plug that is currently in there 

NGK 4435 {#ZFR5E11} V-Power

 

 

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You are using a 5 heat range, I think the 11 means it has a wider gap..... and ya that looks like a projected tip.... the standard, non vpower, would probably be a bpr5es.... 

P means projected tip....

R is a resistor plug.   

 

I run the b6es, I have a set with the wider gap which would be the -11...  I forget exactly what the numbers were but I can look later..... just substitute the 6 for a 5..

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Fancy spark plugs and carburetors don't mix. A simple B6ES is going to be better than one with resistor, or projected tip, or v notch or any of those modern gimmicks. The modern plugs are great for EFI and electronic engine management.

 

This article (though not altogether accurate for Nissan engines) does a good job at explaining the differences in plug types - https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/ignition-electronics-efi/the-great-spark-plug-debate-separating-fact-from-opinion/

 

Beware that a lot of the info about spark plugs you find will be for domestic carbureted V8 tuning or for modern EFI tuning. A carbureted Datsun has it's own set of rules, and one of them is that projected tip plugs make them ping.

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I don't know what heat range you need for the KA, but the lack of all those gimmicks is what makes the B#ES my first choice.

 

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1 hour ago, alexg89 said:

So is a B6ES (5136) the correct plug for what i have going on? 

I know that zfr5e11 crosses over to all of the following but which is just a regular plug?

So to keep it simple...

Looks like you have a 5 heat range....

Verify that is correct and then look for 

 

B5es- standard gap... I think .032

Ngk 6410

 

B5es-11 is a wider gap,  I believe. 042....

Ok well cant find these....

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't know what heat range you need for the KA, but the lack of all those gimmicks is what makes the B#ES my first choice.

 

Most places I've looked at actually recommend the fancier ones... 

...

If this was an L series I would agree 100% B6es.....

 

I have found 5/6/7 heat ranges recommended for a ka so I'm not sure what to recommend.....

 

Would a carburetor want a different plug vs efi? 

 

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4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Most places I've looked at actually recommend the fancier ones... 

...

If this was an L series I would agree 100% B6es.....

 

I have found 5/6/7 heat ranges recommended for a ka so I'm not sure what to recommend.....

 

Would a carburetor want a different plug vs efi? 

 

 

 

Im not sure about any of this so idk lol 

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16 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

 

 

Im not sure about any of this so idk lol 

 

I say run what you got for now....

They dont look bad, but I understand where stroffgren is coming from...

 

I went through all that before trying to solve a miss fire... 

And it made a very small, if any, difference....

Best quality cap, rotor and coil ....

Low resistance wires and b6es instead of br6es..( resistor type)..

While these were all good because of the higher quality it turned out I had too much timing.... so technically I didn't need to change all that....

 

Try to look up what others are running on a carburetated ka... and go from there.... if you have to run the v power plugs but loose the projected tip.... I'll see if I cant find something more too..

 

Question was this truck originally efi?

is it the same distributor you were running before or did that get changed to go to a carburator ?

Edited by Crashtd420
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39 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Most places I've looked at actually recommend the fancier ones...

 

Would a carburetor want a different plug vs efi? 

 

Yes. Simple plugs are more able to handle the idiosyncrasies of a carburetor.

 

Case and point - the small tip of an iridium spark plug may get gummed up sooner than the wide tip of a standard spark plug. Or put another way, it wouldn't take much of a rich situation to render the iridium plug useless.

 

That's just one example. The projected tip is on that I take a hard line on. If you aren't using any kind of electronic timing control, then I would stick with a non-projected tip plug...period. Some Datsun enthusiasts may disagree, but the further away from stock you make your engine, the more important this becomes. The article I linked explains a bit of that theory.

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27 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

Question was this truck originally efi?

is it the same distributor you were running before or did that get changed to go to a carburator ?

 

Yes the truck was originally efi and the distributor i put in the truck is a l20b 2 wire from a 78 200sx

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6 minutes ago, alexg89 said:

 

Yes the truck was originally efi and the distributor i put in the truck is a l20b 2 wire from a 78 200sx

So stroffgren is in the right track about the plugs......

I would try looking at this more like an L motor..... because of the distributor....

B5es or b6es...... 

 

Oh no were talking about your timing again.....

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Great .. timing again lol 

and heres a little clip of it this weekend when i played around a little more with the air correctors, mains and re adjusted the butterfly's all the way shut and opened up the air bypass screws

 

seems like its doing ok so far 

 

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That's just the nature of the beast....

You can talk theories about how this or that should work but messing with it is the only way to get it right..... 

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wind noise is pretty bad, but thanks .. it could be better .. i need to get a damn cam for this thing already but i have an amazon prime problem and always spend my money haha 

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well Florida's weather  is against me .. literally havent drove this thing all week cause of rain lol 

ewLR5zE.jpg

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Get that thermostat changed so you have a consistently warmed engine. A 180 should work in Florida if the cooling system is ok. Gauge should read about in the middle maybe slightly above half.

 

I would think a 5 plug is a bit cold, try a 6.  

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Just now, datzenmike said:

Get that thermostat changed so you have a consistently warmed engine. A 180 should work in Florida if the cooling system is ok. Gauge should read about in the middle maybe slightly above half.

 

I would think a 5 plug is a bit cold, try a 6.  

I actually changed it out the when we were talking about it.. seamed to help a little bit but the transition is still bad .. i can literally only drive it comfortably at 60+ .. anything lower then that it wants to buck and hiccup .. 

 

Have the f2 tubes, 190 air corrector, 60f8 idles, 130 mains.. it seems like it is alot better then before but the transition is still f*&%ed

 

I will have to get another plug in it and see what happens

 

as for timing i backed it down a bit and it seems to be a little peppier..if i remember correctly its about 18* right now 

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