deadmonkey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Got the rear weather stripping shipped finally so I decided to get the rear window tinted :) It turned out exceptional. I wanted it done right and to last, so I spent $30 to have a local guy do it. NICE 5% visible limo tint! And here is the rear, one piece weather stripping. I test fit it and it fits perfect. I should be able to put it on tomorrow and I'll post pics then of course. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Looking good Deadmonkey. Keep the weatherstrip in your house until you are ready to install it. The cold will make it stiffer. For some reason that sounds dirty. :lol: Are you going to be able to make it down to AZ for the Desert Datsuns Swap Meet on the 23rd? We had a meeting on it today and it looks like it should be a preety good turn out, oh did I mention non rusty 620 parts. :lol: Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 doubt I can make it :( I got the rubber on tonight and got the rope in the groove to make it easier to get it in the truck. Tossing the rubber in the oven at 200 degrees for a few minutes was enough to make getting it on the window real easy. After I put it on backwards, and started over I got the below results. Should be a snap getting it in the truck tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Rubberman Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Hey dead, I always take vasiline and rub it on the metal edge of the opening on the truck and on the inside edge of the rubber. I also put it on the string. This makes it alot easier to install. It's a easy clean up afterwards and plus helps make a good seal. Vasiline is the trick to get T-tops to stop leaking. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Here it is! Big images, I know... Sorry if they take for ever to load. Having the rope trick saved my bacon. It would have taken 3x longer with out it. I didn't really need the Vaseline, but there were a couple times on the sides/corners where I thought I might tear the rubber trying to pull it out. A little screw driver action goter' out. I plan to put a bead of sealant in there come summer so it can have a chance to expand and fit in there more snug. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 So I haven't posted in awhile but I have done a little work today and Thought I would share. I am going to simply use some self tapping finishing screws to screw these into the sheet metal. I think the chrome will contrast the black nicely. If I can find the right color yellow, I should be able to sand, primer and paint the door at least for tomorrow. I also had to chase down a leak. I thought the auto glass guys botched up the window install, but turns out the sealant for the body joints came loose at a spot that water flows to and was leaking into the cab... making a nice little puddle on the passenger floor. I'll get a pic of the patch job tomorrow probably. I had to take the right fender off and ended up busting a few body bolts trying to get it off. I also cut off the hood rubber when I removed the fender BEFORE removing the rubber :( oh well I needed new ones anyways. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Looking good DM. Your going to have a show truck you keep going! Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Looking good DM. Your going to have a show truck you keep going! LOL, kind of you to say, but I seriously doubt that. I doubt I would put the money into this particular truck to get it to look that nice. She'll never be a looker like your blue eyed beauty. I got a new line feed welder yesterday, so I will finally be able to get the body all fixed up and prepped for paint this summer. I was wondering, does anybody know of a bumber that is similar to the front bumber on the datsun I could use as a rear bumber. I want to put a chromed rear bumber like the front bumper, but straight. I could buy a new front bumper and try to straighten the old one... but I'm pretty sure the chrome would flake off. Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hey dead monkey those door panels look fresh! I want to see some good recent pics of the datto, i bet its looking good. As for the bumper I have been thinking the same thing with no luck. If you get a nice back bumper that looks good let me know! Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 just got to this new post stuff, its looking really good. I did that same rope trick when i put the windshield back in my 521, works dam near perfect every time. with that new paint job that you have planned for it, it will definitely be ready for a couple shows. keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thanks! it is good to hear kudos, I get bogged down in the details sometimes and forget to look at the bigger picture. Some days I wish I didn't have to work on it, others I love it. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 So... She is dead for now. The engine has exploded. Something is knocking pretty bad in there. I Barely got it home. :frantics: So... who has an engine I can buy? lol I've been looking for fully rebuilt engines. There is a guy on Ebay that does some. Currently has an L20B for like $1800. I sent an Email to get a quote from http://risingsunengines.com for a new engine. A Master Rebuild kit looks like around $500. So I guess it depends on how much I wanna drop into her. At this point I may just want to sell her and get something else. any 510's out there that don't need much work? :) Sigh... Time to get away from the computer before I get mad. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Great news! I bought a parts truck from a guy in Meridian (for all you Boise folks)! The engine has ALL the original stuff I need for emissions, a good hood, seats, rubber cab carpet, dash, bed topper, bumper... the list goes on and on I'm sure. They are even going to deliver it to me tomorrow! I will post pictures of it tomorrow. I hope to be able to share the parts with my Idaho folks and with all of you after I get off it what I need. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Be careful DM these Datsuns will multiply!!! :rofl: It is some times best and always cheaper to buy a good parts truck. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 I'm wondering if one of those 2000lb hand cranks or strap winch will pull the engine out? Anybody know how much the L20B weighs? Harbor freight has engine stands so I can work the engine, but I've never lifted one out and don't want to spend a fortune, nor do I want do drop, break or kill anybody :) Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 Engine $ trans is under 1000 lbs. Reg Cab weighs about 600lbs Bed 200 lbs Frame 650 lbs. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 So I got the stuff needed to pull the engine including an engine stand today at Harbor Freight. I have disconnected all the hoses, electrical, etc. All I have left to do is drain the oil, disconnect is the drive-train and mounting bolts. I plan to lift the engine and transmission at once. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 15, 2010 Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 Can not wait to see a new motor in there! As I said in an earlier post you are going to have a show truck before you realize it! It is lookin great DM. Take a look at the pictures of when you got it and look at the truck now, what a difference. Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted April 15, 2010 Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 I'm wondering if one of those 2000lb hand cranks or strap winch will pull the engine out? Anybody know how much the L20B weighs? Harbor freight has engine stands so I can work the engine, but I've never lifted one out and don't want to spend a fortune, nor do I want do drop, break or kill anybody :) You could lift it out with just about anything they are not that heavy, you could throw a rope over a tree and pull it out with 3 people no problem Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 So I took the drive-train out last night... and there was only TWO bolts holding it to the differential and one was loose. It amazes me how this truck was treated mechanically by the last owner yet still runs! Reminds me of when I drove it 100+ miles to the junk yard round trip... the main jets were just rattling around inside the carb! And how I got this truck home... I have no idea yet what is broke inside the engine, but yet I was still able to drive it home. I bet I could have kept driving it back and forth to work for a week more before it really blew up. Amazing little trucks. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 So I can't get the flywheel off to bolt to the engine mount until I get a compressor. Guess I can't put it off any longer, Compressor here I come. I love having an excuse to buy new tools :) That and I will need to air up the tires on the parts trucks again and again since they have a slow leak. I barely got it high enough to get over the truck. I screwed two eye bolts into a 2x8 from the carport and put chain between them. I didn't want the angle too shallow in case the bolts bent but I think they will be OK next time. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 So a guy off Craigslist is gonna sell me a sand blaster and air compressor for $125. Yay for new toys. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted April 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 So I think I'm going to keep to the original color and paint it the Sunshine Yellow. The engine is blue and I think everything else is going to get black. The paint place quoted me $158 for a gallon of paint, not including the hardener. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 So I think I'm going to keep to the original color and paint it the Sunshine Yellow. The engine is blue and I think everything else is going to get black. The paint place quoted me $158 for a gallon of paint, not including the hardener. Sounds reasonable but I would tell them that the paint is no good with out the hardener and should be be included with the paint price. It might work might not. :lol: Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted May 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 I started sand blasting the battery area today and a bit of the frame. A few days ago I sand blasted the break and clutch master cylinders and the break booster along with the ignition coil. I then primer and painted them flat black. I think they turned out well. I didn't paint over the warning label on the booster if anybody is wondering, its still taped up. I'll probably post some progress snapshots tomorrow. I'm still having second thoughts on what color to paint it. I really want the exterior to be flat military olive green with a light clear coat. I think the interior and engine I will keep sunshine yellow though. thoughts? I just can't bring myself to painting the entire thing bright yellow like it used to be. Quote Link to comment
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