DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted

[datzenmike]

 

Though the '75 seems to be more acurate. the '76 shows two coils and I only have one, the '75 diagram shows the one ignition coil.

 

Says right on there (California only) on the 'extra' coil.

[deadmonkey]

Says right on there (California only) on the 'extra' coil.

 

Yup :) figured that out after sctratchin' the noggin for a bit :)

[datzenmike]

Cali had the remote igniter dizzy and of course the EI coil would be different and wired differently.

[deadmonkey]

I am going to wire up the front lights tomorrow.... Still not sure if the "Alternator Exciter" is going to be used or not?

[deadmonkey]

OK, so didn't get to the truck today :blink:

 

BUT I did find something that may interest people.

 

Maybe everybody here knows about this already, but JC whitney has some CHEAP after market weather stripping. NOS replacements are going for $114 on Ebay for each windshield and rear window!

 

Looks like these will do nicely. I think I will finally fix the hole where the freezing cold air comes in while driving in the winter.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Window-Windshield-Weatherstripping/600003827.jcw

 

NOW I just need to find a cheap windshield! :) The wrecking yard wants to charge me the same as the auto glass place!

[deadmonkey]

Bump!

 

I have most of the engine wired up...

 

I haven't been spending as much time as I should be on the truck because I'm trying to get the GFs project done. Restoring a 1958 Schwinn beach cruiser.

http://s855.photobucket.com/albums/ab115/deadmonkey1/Tiffs%20Cruiser/?albumview=slideshow

 

about $350 into it so far...hopefully that will be all.

[Charlie69]

Nice paint on the bike, good way to practice for when it comes time to paint your truck. It it makes your girl friend happy it is worth any time you put into it.

[deadmonkey]

Thanks! All from a rattle can.

 

Paint will be a no braining I'm thinking. I wanna do a flat military olive green with clear coat.

[deadmonkey]

OK so today it is my ambition to get the bulk of the important wiring done and test it. Namely I want to start it back up and make sure it is going to run :) In my mind that will be a big step forward.

 

I have already got the tail lights/blinkers ready to hook up, Got the ignition switch all sorted out and ready to hook up. I am a bit confused though, there are two ignition wires, one that bypasses the main resister when the starter is starting the engine and one looks to be the "always on" wire while NOT starting. Is this just to provide more power to the plugs while cranking? Either way, looks like I will have to run a seprate wire for this. This is a normal way of doing things right? cuz my wiring harness should have a wire for that already you'd think.

 

Meh, onward and forward

~DM

 

***EDIT***

Got a bunch done today. All the headlights are wired and wrapped in that corrugated black plastic tubing. Wired up the Tail/Blinker/Backup lights, the Fuel pump and fuel sending unit. I figured out the Ignition thing. The way the aftermarket wiring harness suggested I wire up the ignition wires saves me from running two ignition wires. Instead the "start ignition" wire comes off the starter while it is engaged. Took me about 2 hours of staring at the damn wiring diagram to put 2 and 2 together.

 

With luck it will turn over tomorrow.

Edited September 27, 2009 by deadmonkey

[deadmonkey]

SHIT YEAH! She lives. After almost burning up my coil and fixing one wire... She runs like a charm! Whew... big leap forward.

 

NOW comes the fun part of trying to put the dash back together and wiring up the everything. Matching everything from the stock wiring, cliping the plugs off, and connecting to the aftermarket wiring... gonna be a bit of a pain. But at least it will be straight forward.

[deadmonkey]

So the dash is back together, Lights work, blinkers work, hazards work, windshield washers works but guage lights, backup lights, heater fan, don't, . I popped a fuse when I stuffed some unused wire groups up behind the left vent out of the way. Forgot they were hot! oops, oh wells, that's what fuses are for. Accidentally popped the Cig lighter fuse cuz I accidentally grounded it as well.

 

The only thing that lights up on the guages is the High Beam light, but turns off when I put the brights on. Gonna take some fiddling to get it to work I'm sure.

 

Gonna take it out for a test drive now! :)

[sick620]

thats one nice datto! we need to meet up you, me, and farmer joe. the official idaho datsun club:)

[deadmonkey]

She isn't really much to look at now w/ the primer gray and all... at least not YET. I'll get some pics of what I have so far tomorrow.

 

I took it out for a test drive and realized I didn't have my side mirrors on. oops, oh well, Idaho only says you need side mirrors if you can't see out the back. I'ma get some sexy fender mirrors.

 

Does somebody have a tutorial on how to put in a headliner? I have absolutely no Idea how to do one.

 

Also, How can you test the auto choke? I'm not sure mine is setup and/or working properly. I looked at Webbers site and didn't see anything. It is brand new.

[deadmonkey]

SO I GOT PULLED OVER YESTERDAY!

 

Not really happy about that. Apparently I wired the running lights to the high beam side of the switch when I did a last minute change. I took it to work and copper pulled me over for not having any running lights.

 

Dinged me for no insurance (which I have) but I forgot to throw the glove box in before I took off. Also he informed me that my vehicle registration was canceled because I didn't do an emissions test.

 

I sorta thought I was exempt... It never had a Catalytic converter, so no Idea if it will pass.

 

Funny thing is the copper started to chat w/ me about what year it was and if it had the 5 speed.... telling me he had one in high school. Nice guy... still sore about the ticket though!

[Charlie69]

Hi dead monkey, check Tdaaj listing in for sale section of Ratsun, there have been several dashes and bezels over the last few weeks.

 

How is the truck coming, need a fix, I mean an update.

 

I bet it is cold up there now slowing down progress.

[deadmonkey]

So I need to work on the engine to get her to pass emissions.

 

I took it to an emissions testing place and they couldn't finish the test, the computer stopped because there was too much fuel. It is WAY rich, enough to stop the computer from testing. The tech said they thought there might be a cylinder not firing which would account for the extra fuel and the inability for the truck to idle properly.

 

On top of that I need to have somebody who knows what they are doing, get my Carbs in order. I can only rebuild them, not get them running properly aparently...I can take it to a shop for that for relatively little $.

 

I bought a compression tester, new spark plugs, cap/rotor and oil filter. I figure I might as well do everything together. I'm really hoping it is a dead spark plug and not a compression issue. I'll find out when I pull the spark plugs tomorrow I guess.

[slam_dat_sun]

Man I wish you the best of luck with your truck , This really sucks .....

[Charlie69]

Hi DeadmonkeyIt sounds like you have fouled a plug with to much fuel.

 

Are you running dual carbs?

 

What kind of carb/s?

 

Can you post some pictures?

 

Please post your compression results dry and wet.

 

Are you running a distributor with points?

 

Is Timing set?

[deadmonkey]

There are pictures of the Carb on the first page of this post, it is a Webber 32/36 DGAV03B.

 

By "dry" and "wet" compression results I'm guessing mean before running the engine and after it is warm?

 

I have a distributor with an ignition coil, don't know where the points are, Inside the distributor?

 

Also, I don't have a timing gun, Guess I'll have to pick one up. Harbor freight here I come.

===

I'm not gonna attempt anything tonight, it is my bed time but I am definitely going to look at it tomorrow.

Edited November 3, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

Compresion test

Warm up motor

Shut off motor

Pull coil wire

Dry Test

pull #1 spark plug

screw in compression tester (Be sure O-ring on tester fitting is good)

Crank motor a couple revolutions

Check reading & record

Remove compression tester

Continue this procedure untill all cylinders have been tested

replace all spark plugs except #1

Wet Test

Take a oil squirt can and put a couple squirts of oil 30w 10w40

retest #1 compression and record

Remove tester and install #1 spark plug

Continue this procedure until all cylinders are tested record all results

Example of compression test recording

Cylinder Number Dry Test Wet Test Difference

1 110 110 0

2 115 115 0

3 90 130 40

4 130 130 0

In this example #3 Cylinder test indicates ring are leaking by.

If cylinder #3 did not come up in pressure on wet test it would indicate possible burned or bent valve or bad carbon build not allow valve to seal completely.

[Charlie69]

OK just looked at your pictures you have a points distributor.

 

a weber carb.

 

Is there a chance you can take pictures of the spark plugs after you pull them out and post and # them as to which cylinder. What I would like to see is the electrode end to help determine what is going wrong.

 

Also if the plugs look wet smell and feel the moisture note in post if gas smelling or oily feeling post these finding with the # pictures.

 

Let me know what you find.

 

Deadmonkey get on the Harbor freight website and sign up for email sales notification, this will get you the coupons emailed to you and all you have to do is print them out and give them up when you make a purchase.

 

Please post the results.

[deadmonkey]

So I got off early today from work to look at his all.

 

ok... so I tested compression with the engine cold, and hot; waiting 5 minutes to see how much the pressure dropped.

 

COLD

 

1) 130->130

2) 125->122

3) 110->110

4) 130->127

===

HOT

1) 130->130

2) 120->120

3) 130->130

4) 140->140

 

SO, the good news is I don't have to change the rings! yay, the bad news is one cylinder has a lower then norm (130psi) and one has higher. The difference in psi is 20psi, which I'm guessing is bad. I'm thinking the book says that they should be w/ in 10% of each other at the max. 120/140 = 50%! not good.

 

I don't think the plugs are bad, but they did have the stink of fuel on cylinders 2, 3, and 4. I could just have the Carbs WAY rich and causing this.

Here are the spark plugs:

#1

#2

#3

#4

Edited November 3, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

Hell With those Numbers for compression Drive it like you stole it!

 

You are a little low on one cylinder but it could run years that way.

 

Get a 1980 Electronic distributor put in new plugs gapped at 41 thousandths, plugwires, distributor cap and rotor. to match the distributor NO COPPER CORE WIRES!

 

I have a 1976 620 intake and exhaust manifold if you want it.

 

Is the motor vehicle department making you run all the original smog parts or are you just trying to pass on the blow test?

 

I think it is carberation, are you running an electric fuel pump? if you are you need an adjustable fuel regulator with a fuel pressure gauge. Webers run best at 2.5 to 3lbs. pressure. could explain the richness. also check the float level and check for any vacuum leaks.

 

Check your PMs

Edited November 4, 2009 by Charlie69

[deadmonkey]

Emissions doesn't really care as long as it passes with a tailpipe test at idle and at 2500 or so RPMs.

 

I am running an electric fuel pump too. My old one burned out and they put in a new one... I wonder if it is over sized. How do you test the presure and/or regulate it if its too high?

 

Not to be daft, but how do you check the float level? When I rebuilt it, The floats were level. I tried to not change the floats.

 

I did find a very small hole big enough to put the end of a toothpick in for the tube that goes to the Dizzy timing advance vacuum. That is an easy fix though. Besides that, the vacuum reservoir... you know the one that hooks to the gas tank. Has never been connected to anything. Most of the other hoses have been crimped or blocked off so I have no Idea what goes to where.

 

OH, And another question;

I was gonna replace the oil pan seal since it needs it and I bought one awhile back. I took off a cross member to drop the pan, and tried to take off the stearing rod that goes across the oil pan, but it won't pop off. The nuts are off. I'm guessing this is a compression fitting? Will heating up the outside let that pop out? Cuz i can't get the pan out until I pop that off.

Edited November 4, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

If you bought a weber rebuild kit full instructions on rebuild / float level adjustment should have been included. If not search this forum it has been covered many times I will also serarch for it I haven't set a weber float since 1993 so I am a little rusty.

 

You need to get a fuel pressure regulator set a no more than 3.5 lbs pressure. This could be all that is causing your richness problem as the higher fuel pressure will push past the needle and seat.

 

Cross Rod / Tie Rod end Removal. They are tapered. Easiest way I found to remove them is a 4lb. hammer and hit firmly on the outside of where the stud goes through or use a pickle fork. I find less damage with the 4 lb. hammer technique. Usually 2 or 3 solid whacks and it falls right out. Besure and loosen the nuts first. Do not strile the stud at all it is fairly soft and you can destroy it.

 

Remember the only dumb question is the one that is not asked!

Edited November 4, 2009 by Charlie69