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DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted


deadmonkey

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how much for the disc brakes up front? is there anything you need i can trade ya

Well... I was wondering about doing both disk breaks front and back. Is it as easy as bolt it right up? or is it allot more involved? If its a pain, then yeah you can have them after I make sure mine are with in tolerances and not warped or anything. I'll PM ya, but you have dibs.

 

EDIT: Yeah, did some research and would have to get some brackets (guy on here does them, didn't know that).

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Well... I was wondering about doing both disk breaks front and back. Is it as easy as bolt it right up? or is it allot more involved? If its a pain, then yeah you can have them after I make sure mine are with in tolerances and not warped or anything. I'll PM ya, but you have dibs.

 

EDIT: Yeah, did some research and would have to get some brackets (guy on here does them, didn't know that).

 

 

Beebani sells front & rear disc brake brackets that will work on your truck. Only thing is you will have to run 15" or larger wheel with Beebani's brackets.

 

Beebani Fronts

 

Beebani Rear

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for not posting in awhile but overtime just doesn't leave time for working on the truck, though I do try doing something on it everyday.

 

I have torn out the dash on the parts truck, everything is usable but the dash plastic is cracked (just like most every dash). I do however have an Idea on how to restore these dashes, but that is another project!

 

I pulled out the wiring harness and it it is nearly perfect both under the dash and in the engine. I plan to put it all in my truck.

 

I had to buy a rebuild kit for my compressor because it was not...well not compressing air. I'm still saving money buying off Craigslist, but the piston was worn out. BOY does it work great now though! I finished up the sandblasting of the engine compartment and will hopefully primer it tomorrow since it is supposed to be sunny all day with 0% chance of rain.

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I'm probably going to rattlecan the hard to reach places. There just isn't room for the spraygun in most of the hard to reach places. Hopefully the Army Navy store is open today, they have the right color I want which will make it easier to color match when I buy paint for the body.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'll post pics soon... but the engine is on and the transmission is on the ground. I need another hand to get it in It think. Just checking if anybody knows, do I need to put the transmission in BEFORE the engine? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get that dang thing in past the clutch stuffs.

 

Oh, and any ratsun Boise folks wanna help me with the Transmission by any chance?

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I install & remove motor & trans as 1 piece. you just have to angle the hell out of it. be sure to drain the trans oil or tape up the tail shaft or it will make a big mess. It is alway helpful to have 2 people. be sure and remove shifter, tunnel cover, trans crossmember before installing as 1 piece.

 

Paint is looking good.

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I've done tranny and motors separately, put the motor in first and bolt it in. then make sure the oval tranny cover is out of the cab put the tail end of the tranny up thru the hole and guide it into the clutch....i had to do this by myself and it isn't that bad, i hate doing it together it always makes a mess and you'll risk messing up that nice paint job..good shit on the engine bay it looks really good!

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@ SICK620 As long as my manager gets off his ass and approves my time off for the next one...

 

@ Slixon; I figured pulling the shifter cover would be needed. I didn't want to put the engine and tranny together for fear of scratching the paint. I'll have another go at it tonight. I'll post pics thus far once I get some food in me.

 

I'm sure I'll geter' in today... Work pissed me off and... I am Jack's raging bile duct. F you tranny... here I come!

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Double post... W00t!

The transmission is in! I had to cut off the exhaust to give me clearance on the drivers side as well as lower the torsion bolts. I think I made it like 3-4 inches lower just by doing that. Not sure if I'll put it back up or not :)

Don't mind the over spray on the Valve cover I think I'm going to buff it to a shine eventually. Or maybe tape out some flame and paint black, leaving aluminum flame... and of course the lettering/lines on top. Meh... for another day in the distant future. Also the hoses will probably get some of that metal mesh covering eventually.

 

Oh, and I'd like thoughts on what I did for the intake manifold where the EGR used to be. I used liquid nails to plug up the holes and hopefully get an air tight seal. Note the filter on the breather... Is that gonna fly or is that a nono?

 

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OMG MAN!! get that FRAM off that motor! pickup a Motorcraft FL-1A filter. id hate to see your engine have problems cuz of one of those POS filters.

 

i like the olive drab tho!! i really like it! i think im gonna start trying to get my engine bay detailed up.

 

one more thing...

 

since you have deleted the egr, i would really try and run the egr tube to the air filter on the weber. you do have a weber on this right? and does it have the little plastic elbow onthe bottom plate of the filter? if you do, thats where i would hook the egr tube to. and then use that wee filter on the valve cover vent. golden...

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The Fram is just for picking up any crud for a bit then get a good one a bit later.

 

I do have the Webber carb and it does have the hole in the bottom but no elbow (easy enough to get though). I have all the original Emissions stuff so I'm sure I can rig something together easy enough but do I need any valves of some kind? If somebody has a good picture example I'd like to see a link.

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