DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted

[deadmonkey]

Something like this?

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=SCT&MfrPartNumber=2517&CategoryCode=3339P

 

And no, my rebuild kit didn't come with anything! I had to goto the Webber site.

 

I'll try the "add heat" approach that seems to help w/ stubborn pressure fittings.

Edited November 4, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

You will burn up the rubbers and remember they have grease in them.

 

http://www.restockit.com/Tie-Rod-Separator-Pickle-Fork-(KTI71501).html?source=froogle&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=comparsionshopping&Bvar5=100F1&Bvar6=100F1&Bvar7=100F1&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=KTI71501

Edited November 4, 2009 by Charlie69

[Charlie69]

Here is al you need to properly set your float level.

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Float_Level_1.htm

 

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5847

 

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5846

 

This is about fuel pressure.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/why-my-new-webber-dgev-32-36-wouldnt-run-618448/

[deadmonkey]

So I got a generic fuel pressure regulator. Where should I put it? before or after the fuel filter. It obviously goes after the pump, ah dur!

 

So much for just pound on that tie rod, it isn't budging! I'm wondering if there is tension on it from being on the truck ramps.

Edited November 6, 2009 by deadmonkey

[deadmonkey]

So I got a generic fuel pressure regulator. Where should I put it? before or after the fuel filter. It obviously goes after the pump, ah dur!

 

So much for just pound on that tie rod, it isn't budging! I'm wondering if there is tension on it from being on the truck ramps.

 

Got a fork splitter, came right off. Installed the fuel pressure regulator behind the filter. Took the Oil pan off and cleaned it up. Noticed the little baffle inside was cracked where the spot welds were. I put a couple spot welds down to hold it in place. Put the gasket sealer and new gasket back on.

 

Put the tie rod and cross members back on. Put the new cap/rotor and new plugs in after gaping. She started up just fine. But I smell the same fuel smell from the exhaust. The Auto Choke still isn't engaging for some reason, It is brand new and I double checked that power is getting to it.

 

I may pull apart the Carb today, but not sure If I wanna do that. I'm going to take it to a shop tomorrow and have them fix it. I don't have the time and/or patience to deal w/ it anymore.

[deadmonkey]

OK, so took it to the shop and they fixed the auto choke, apparently I had it turned around the wrong way :o

 

I have a leak where the carbs are bolted to the adapter/Intake manifold. They sprayed some carb cleaner and the engine revs up... so a leak.

 

I'll have to get a Helicoil from Napa to fix that one or get a new manifold... anybody have one?

 

I'll need to pull the Carb off and double check the Float/main jet.

 

The guy I took it to said that he was adjusting the mixture screw and nothing was happening.

 

Sigh... I'll get her workin' if its the last damn thing I do!!

[Charlie69]

sent pictures of manifold by PM

[Charlie69]

Hi deadmonkey,

 

You are doing a great job with this truck. Keep up the good work it will all be worth it when your truck is done and you are driving it with the windows down listening to music on your radio grinning from ear to ear.

 

Every now and then I have to step away from my truck out of frustration and take a break from it. I go back to work on it a few days later and it all goes good for a while and then something that I think should be easy kicks my ass and I have to walk away again. It is a cycle called DATSUN!:lol:

 

Any way you have definately shown your dedication to this truck with all the work you have done and it is getting there. You will soon be enjoying it by driving it. I am enjoying watching your progress and wishing I was as close as you are.

[Braden]

OK, so took it to the shop and they fixed the auto choke, apparently I had it turned around the wrong way :o

 

I have a leak where the carbs are bolted to the adapter/Intake manifold. They sprayed some carb cleaner and the engine revs up... so a leak.

 

I'll have to get a Helicoil from Napa to fix that one or get a new manifold... anybody have one?

 

I'll need to pull the Carb off and double check the Float/main jet.

 

The guy I took it to said that he was adjusting the mixture screw and nothing was happening.

 

Sigh... I'll get her workin' if its the last damn thing I do!!

 

i have a u60 manifold tat i dont need, pm me for details if you are interested

[deadmonkey]

Thanks Charlie...

 

It is just that being broke and trying to get this thing going before winter, AND a ticket I have to deal with because something as asinine as 'NISSAN' vs 'DATSUN' on my damn insurance card. Then finding out they canceled my Registrations because I didn't do emissions, then to DO an emissions test to find out the computer won't do it because something is horribly wrong....

 

Makes me wanna drive it off a cliff.

[Charlie69]

I Know the feeling well of being broke and trying to finish my truck, been unemployed since March 9th of this year.

 

It will come together in time. Keep up the good work before tou know it you will have it running and looking as good as your girl friends bicycle!!!:cool:

[deadmonkey]

Got any links on how to setup the webber? amount of turns etc for the mixture and other screws?

 

I measured the float and the fully open position was at like 40 something mm. the fully closed was much closer at 36mm. I fixed both, they are at 35mm/51mm now. Everything else inside the was replaced/changed out with the Rebuild kit.

 

I know the two jets are different sizes 160 and 170... Though I'm wondering if I put them in wrong sides. If you have the fuel inlet facing you, the left jet is marked 170 and the right jet is 160. I'm wondering if those are backwards, since on the bottom, the left carb is smaller then the right carb.

 

If this is backwards, that might explain some stuff.

 

I'm also concerned about all the emissions stuff, either removed, hoses cut or blocked. I'm not even sure if I have a PCV or EGR valve on this thing right now. I don't think my timing advance is even hooked up right.

Edited November 15, 2009 by deadmonkey

[deadmonkey]

Well now.... that is interesting. I have no Idea why I didn't notice this before... but the truck doesn't even HAVE a vacuum pump!

 

See page two of my engine pictures

 

There is the charcoal/vacuum canister and it has none of the lines connected except the one going to the gas tank. One of those lines is 'supposed' to be fore the timing advance. There is a 'T' connector, one end from the distributor, one from the canister and one going to the carburator.

 

Well instead of that there is one hose going from the distributor to the 'T', another going from the second end looping back around to the 3rd end... making a closed loop! The tube on my Weber that is blocked off with a bolt... is SUPPOSED to go to one end of this 'T'.

 

There is also a valve on the left side of the valve cover, right beside were the fuel lines connect. There is nothing connected to it. I blew/sucked on it and it is working properly as a one way valve. No Idea what it is for. Judging by the crappy pictures in my Hayes manual it looks to be for the fuel return line? The current fuel return line bypasses this valve.

[Charlie69]

Hi Deadmonkey,

 

Would you like me to scan some pages of my 76 Manual for you? If so let me know what you are interested in.

[deadmonkey]

Hi Deadmonkey,

 

Would you like me to scan some pages of my 76 Manual for you? If so let me know what you are interested in.

 

Man, that would be sweet!

If there is a diagram showing the distributor timing advance hoses and which ones should go to the carb, how/where the two fuel lines are supposed to be hooked up.

 

Also, If there is some kind of detail showing what all is connected to the intake manifold, that would be great. There are so many things crimped, cut off or blocked I don't know what is and isn't supposed to be there.

[deadmonkey]

Anybody know about which side which jet should be on in the carb?

[Charlie69]

I will scan them tomorrow afternoon.

Good night

[deadmonkey]

I fixed the stripped intake manifold with a helicoil kit. Thread locked all the bolts in and sealed the adapter plate with gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. That bitch ain't ever gonna leak!

 

Fired her up and runs like a charm.

Took to an emissions testing station and I passed high rpm! Though I didn't pass the low RPMs test.

 

After checking the weber schematic a couple times, I guess those two jets on top are called the Primary/Secondary Air Correction jets. Those look to be set properly. Original specs say they should be 170/160. So I need to turn change those back.

 

The primary/secondary main jets are 140/140. Never did touch those.

 

The primary/secondary idle jets are supposed to be 060/050. I haven't checked those yet.

 

I'm hoping a simple adjusting of the mixture screw will get me to pass emissions.

[deadmonkey]

Well, I passed all the emissions test except the HC on idle. The guy says the timing is off. sucky thing is it is set right at 12deg BTDC like the manual says. It is idle at 1000rpm, the book says 750, but I couldn't get it to go that slow.

 

It has new points, which were really needed. This made setting the timing easier. The only thing I can think of now is the timing chain unless the emissions stuff that was ripped out is what is causing it to fail now. I think I'm back to taking it to a shop unless anybody else has advice.

[Charlie69]

Hi Deadmonkey,

 

I have not forgot the scans of the emission sysytem. I am having computer problems. I am working on the problems. I hope to have it fixed today.

 

I still have a distributor if you need it.

 

Her is a link to a Ratsun thread by Pacific Coast Datsun on Electronic distributors.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=11828

Edited November 17, 2009 by Charlie69

[Charlie69]

Hi deadmonkey,

 

Is the shop you are taking it to charging you every time you take it in?:(

 

Take the truck to a shop that has emmission testing equipment and ask them to adjust the truck to pass emmissions. Take note of what they do so you undo it if the truck does not run right. Take the truck to emmissions get your registration and then go home and work on the truck on your leisure time, no longer under the gun to get it past emmissions.:D

 

This is what I have had to do with my 93 Saturn.

[deadmonkey]

There are only a few shops that have the emissions testing equipment. They were able to adjust it while on the machine w/ out doing anything fancy to it.

 

Only charged me $68+$2 for the test! Yay.

 

Now I can register the damn thing and drive it now! YAY!

[Charlie69]

That is great enjoy your ride. We need pictures of your big grin while driving your now legal truck.:D

[deadmonkey]

Got the Instrument Panel lighting sorted out!

I decided to ditch the dimmer switch for those lights and perhaps save it for when I get the dome lights put back in.

Got the Heater Motor working (low AND high)!

Got the horn working!

Adjusted the head lights........I got flashed 5 times on my way to work this morning :) hehe.

 

I am missing one of the bulb holders from the back of the instrument panel? Anybody have one. I'll post on classifieds too.

 

Funny thing though, I JUST got my truck registered again, and I got a letter from the DMV telling me I'm not authorized to use National Guard plates anymore. They are right, but I've been out of the guard for like 5 years now! haha. oh well.

Edited November 20, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

Hey deadmonkey Great Progress. Howmany of the light sockets do you need? I have a few from 521 dashes not sure if they are the same.