DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted

[Farmer Joe]

Ill take a picture of mine tomorrow. I forgot what the kind of valve was called. The one on my truck is from like a smallblock chevy. its hard to explain. Ill get a pic in the morning.

[deadmonkey]

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve

 

I think I used the wrong term...EGR is the curvy S shaped pipe (I believe stainless steel) from the side of the exhaust manifold (correct?). that is bolted/blocked off completely now. The tube with the little air filter on is the the crank case breather tube.

 

Looking at some posts I think I have it down, correct me if I'm wrong;

If there is blowby off the top valve cover then route to the bottom of webber. If no blowby just a filter will do.

The Crank breather tube always gets routed back into intake via PCV valve (or in my case no valve cuz all the vacuum lines are gone)

BOTH can be considered PCV.

[alleycat]

i like the color alot

[deadmonkey]

i like the color alot

Thanks! I'll like it better when it covers the rest of the truck.

[sick620]

ok......

 

 

Either hook up your pcv to your weber or filter it with a little schucks mini filter...... that shit needs to breath some how even un filtered air is better than no air...... and this is a egr i would just bolt one on hook a line to it and plug the line with a screw.....

[Farmer Joe]

holy cow i got that all wrong lol.

 

so first off, the EGR tube that comes from the manifold to that ^^^^^^^ valve is done. just cut it close to the manifold and flatten it and bend it over to seal it up.

 

 

THEN (lol) the PCV line where youve got that little filter can go to the intake. pretty much anywhere where theres a little vacuum (like the bottom of the weber filter) will work.

 

this is how mines setup. but this was my dads creation, and since its just worked, ive left it alone...

 

heres the PCV valve on the tube coming from the block...

 

 

 

but then this is where it gets kinda funky...

 

if youll notice in this pic, the hose coming from my PCV valve goes to a blockoff for where the egr was and is fed into the intake. i then also have a vacuum operated air valve that will let fresh air into the intake when the vacuum raises. my dad did this to get it smogged in boise. it used to be a 1A truck.

 

 

and then the air valve setup...

 

 

i dont know if this will help. i got to lookin at it and it looks more complicated than it really needs to be. but it works for me. maybe you can get some ideas form it?

 

good luck

[deadmonkey]

uh, what the hell is that red hose from?

But yeah... 99.9% certain on what needs to happen. Thanks.

[deadmonkey]

Todo list:

 

• remount and weld back up exhaust
  

• connect brake/clutch pedals
  

• bleed brakes/clutch
  

• find out if ballast needed or not on ignition
  

• re-wire ignition
  

• re-wire rear brake light plug to harness
  

• mount dash
  

• mount headlights (wool felt to keep from rattling)
  

[deadmonkey]

Update pictures. Everything is pretty much back in. I just need to get the dash back in and verify all the electrics work. I haven't fired it up yet... but will prolly get to that tomorrow!

 

 

I still have a lot of body work to get done. There was a bit of bondo work that just needs to be redone.

[deadmonkey]

Just bought soundproofing material off Ebay. $0.90 per square foot and free shipping.

[deadmonkey]

SHE LIVES!!!

[sick620]

YA!!!! good job

[WAGON JON]

Glad to hear it is running!

[deadmonkey]

So I think I'm pretty much done with dealing with Autozone. Twice now in one week parts I have ordered are crap. I ordered brake hose's and they were the wrong thread size. I even had Shucks cross reference the part number and they were the right part, but the threads were 3/8" not 10mm! So either they were bagged wrong, or manufactured wrong!

 

Fast forward to today, I was putting in the last of my shocks/struts and the bag of parts with the rubber, washers and bolt were missing. The box was all taped up, so I'm sure the bag fell out someplace before it got shipped to me.

 

Either I just have bad luck or They are always like this!

===

Though I did paint up the grill and put on the bumper. I wish my bumper wasn't so beat up, but I'll live with it because I don't wanna buy a new one right now. Here is a pic.

 

[sick620]

i might have a better bumper dm let me look

[Charlie69]

I had the same problems with parts from O'reilly's, all my front brake parts & wheel bearings were wrong except the front rotors. Ended up buying online from Rock Auto.

 

Trucks looking good DM.

[deadmonkey]

Small update:

Been driving her for the last few days now. She runs great but smells like fuel in the line a bit. May be running a bit rich?. I will prbably want to rig up an EGR/PCV loopback of some kind. I just want it to be sleek unlike the stock hardware. I made no changes to the carb since the mechanic did when they tweaked it to get it to pass emissions on the other engine.

I get a "pft pft pft" from the exhaust any time I decelerate. I do have a tiny exhaust leak right before the mufler where I had to cut to get the transmission in. Not sure if that is the cause of the "pft" sounds. Its patched with a repair wrap kit, but haven't taken it in to get welded properly. My weld job was a fail because I can't get up in there properly.

Besides the same brake issues as before, everything is good. Once I change out the brake hoses (from rockauto) I will be able to test for leaks.

 

EDIT:

Didn't think the liquid nails would do the trick for long. Found the leak where I plugged up the EGR/PCV holes for the intake. I think I will drill and tap threads into those so I can connect the PCV hoses. That or DIY mill me an adapter plate.

[Farmer Joe]

so did you get your clutch and brake hydraulics work properly?

[deadmonkey]

I took it to Meinake and they were gonna charge me $110 JUST to put in the lines and bleed the brakes (which they claimed they would do for free). F that noise I can do it myself in under an hour. So they couldn't test the booster...or weren't going to test the booster until the hoses were replaced.

 

It gets around pretty well actually. The brakes stiffen up with the pedal almost at the floor. The front brakes seem to pull and change sides that pull too, which worries me. I also hear a "clunk" sometimes when I hit the brakes...that normal?

I haven't adjusted the clutch yet, but I think the clutch is just fine. I just think I'm too used to driving around my GF's kia and the clutch is hella stiff on it.

 

I have a sweet 2ton jack now from harbor freight so getting under the truck will be simple now. No more using the GF's scissor jacks from the Kia.

[deadmonkey]

Before:

 

After:

(I had to redo the white and need to clean up the edges some still)

[Farmer Joe]

well the brake on my truck used to pull randomly on either side when i would hit the brakes. that was before the new brake shoes. after i put the new shoes in it and adjusted them right, they worked fine. but you have to adjust em damn near every month for em to keep working well.

 

as for the clunk, i get that too... it sounds like it comes from the driver front. its had that clunk for as long as ive drove it. it doesnt do it all the time, but sometimes. i dont think it did any one the way up to idaho city. youd prolly have noticed it too.

 

ive never had a new clutch in the truck either. prolly just a fresh pressure plate making it a little more stiff than normal. my trucks got a z24 flywheel and a used clutch from the junkyard that was almost toast. so maybe ill see what you mean when i get a new clutch...

 

cool deal you got it back up and motavatin tho! maybe ill see ya around on my ways to and froms work...

[deadmonkey]

Found this pic, I love those flares... not so much on the War inspired face, but I like the idea of the stenciled bombs

[deadmonkey]

Not like Many people watch this thread, but Meineke is giving me a pretty good deal. They trouble shot what's up with my brakes and found I have a bad break master cylinder and the left rear bleeder valve was stripped. New cylinder and brake line flush will only cost me $150 and they swapped out a piece from my parts truck I brought in for free. The manager there used to have a Datsun so he's giving me a pretty good deal. They probably have like 3 hours of work on it and only charging me for like 1. Even commented on the paint job. Nice to catch a break sometimes.

[deadmonkey]

Small update, not much to say besides being pissed at Schucks. That now makes Schucks AND Autozone on my list of places not to go to for parts anymore.

 

Once I get my charging situation under control I will focus on getting the Emissions stuff back in. I have already mounted the EGR stuff but not the vacuum line. I really wish I had a Weber with the fuel inlet on the left side because I it is literally touching the EGR vacuum valve. Anybody wanna trade a lefty for a righty top plate?

 

Besides that I did a little body work and welded up the front blinker mounts and filled with bondo. I will do the same in the back. If Idaho requires side markers then I'll just get some little 12v LED's to put in there.

 

Once I get the charging issue squared away I can tidy up the wiring finally and will probably finally put down the sound deadening butyl and get some carpet in finally!

 

Down the road even further than paint is the sandblasting of the back window:

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/15192-rising-sun/page__view__findpost__p__317220

 

I also got the idea in my head to make a trailer out of the parts truck bed! Wee I can't wait until that project.

[78dattysun]

Looks good man I like it. Ya it actually came out thicker then i thought so I need diff padding. But the bondo in the bed thing, Im getting it sprayed with bed liner.