DMs '76 620 pickup ...first project attempted

[Guest DatsuNoob]

My 76 has an external voltage reg. A GM one wire 100amper would be a better investment than a new voltage regulator in my opinion, but if you need one in good working order, I'll sell you mine for $10. It's used but works fine. Just kidding about the tweeker thing too btw, my truck came from a guy who did all kinda hack shit like bypass a bunch of wiring, carb stuff, and even went as far as packing holes in the rockers with steel wool and bondo. :eek:

[Llittle_Llama]

thats a great deal, mine is going out and if i wasnt planning on the saturn alt. i would get it.....oh, and i have an internal so just another reason for me not to get it. but mine is bad, lol

[deadmonkey]

someone correct me if im wrong, but the alt. has an internal regulator.

Well... by "regulator" you can mean allot of things. An alternator just takes the AC wave and rectifies it using diodes. You could call this a voltage regulator I guess. But from my understanding, the regulator is needed for the rest of the vehicle to keep it from voltage spikes. Maybe I'm wrong here, please educate me if so. I'm coming from motorcycle experience and the regulator on a motorcycle is merely a rectifier.

[]2eDeYe]

You got it.

 

On a car with an alternator (most older cars had generators) the regulator keeps the voltage at a steady output between 13-16 volts and stops spikes. Some alternators are internally regulated (the regulator is inside the alt) and older ones are externally regulated.

 

Your regulator is on the fenderwell on the passenger side.

 

You can swap in an internally regulated alt and clean up the wiring in the engine bay a bit. The real benefit to the swap is that your stock alt is 35-55 amps and a newer internally regulated alt can have 80-120 or more amps depending on the alt. So more power, brighter lights and the ability to run more electrical stuff in your ride.

[deadmonkey]

So, I decided to jump headfirst into tearing out the dash and gluing on the replacement "cap". I am not all that impressed with it. It is better then buying an entire dash... which would cost more then I payed for the truck! Maybe someday I'll do it, but not now! I just got it down, 4 hours to let it cure, then get it put back in before it gets dark so I have something to drive to work tomorrow besides my motorcycle!

 

|

 

||

 

||<-- Not happy about this part.

Edited November 23, 2008 by deadmonkey

[Llittle_Llama]

wait, is that the cap off of ebay? i was gunna order it tonigh, but not if it looks like that! what did you pay for it?

[deadmonkey]

I didn't get it off Ebay, but the one I got is probably the same ones they sell on Ebay. I got mine here:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Dash_Pad_Cover/Datsun/Pickup

 

In hindsight I probably should have gotten the Full cap, But I figure if the full one still doesn't cover under the dash board, then Why bother w/ the "Full Cap". This should do for now I guess.

 

More Pics:

|

 

So it is installed. I had to do it in the dark :( Still got in in there though. I hadn't taken the truck out for a spin since I fixed the idle and throttle cable so I decided to take it around the block. Not 1 block from my apartment, the cab starts to fill with smoke... something was melting. After turning off the truck and letting the smoke clear, first thing I see when I get under the dash is yet another after thought wire going from some splice under the dash to the automatic choke. Sure enough, I looked and the choke wire fell off the choke and grounded onto the engine. So the fuse didn't blow, the wire did because it was such crap thin gauge and probably has an overpowered fuse.

 

Besides that she is running great! It may be idling too slow I think. She is idling so slow that I can't even hear it Guess I should get a Tac :) It should be idling at 650 RPM, or at least so says my book.

 

Got a wire harness ordered too... I can't wait until I get this and spend next weekend unfucking that rats nest under the hood!

Edited November 24, 2008 by deadmonkey

[Llittle_Llama]

DAMN, that sucks man.whats that fuse box kit running you?

[]2eDeYe]

They run about $300 or so man.

 

http://www.painlesswiring.com

 

You still need to buy relays for everything that needs them.

[deadmonkey]

$209 for the 22 Circuit one, less for less circuits of course

 

http://stores.homestead.com/ez2wire/StoreFront.bok

[Llittle_Llama]

fuck! my 6 fuse box was 7 bucks!and i dont think imma need to get another one. what are you gunna wire up in there?

[deadmonkey]

fuck! my 6 fuse box was 7 bucks!and i dont think imma need to get another one. what are you gunna wire up in there?

Uh, everything! It is a 22 circuit aftermarket wiring harness meant to replace the current wiring harness... which if I get a completely rebuilt one (looking exactly like the original) will cost around $2000. If I have them just FIX it so it is all good wiring, then I'm looking at $90/hour for the shop to do it for me. This way it "should" save me a little money and have all new wiring.

[]2eDeYe]

$209 for the 22 Circuit one, less for less circuits of course

 

http://stores.homestead.com/ez2wire/StoreFront.bok

 

Thanks for the link that is some good pricing. :cool:

 

 

dwnshftr, You really need a fuse for every circuit on the vehicle. By circuit, I mean every electrical device in your truck. If you have a short with no fuse too blow or if you have to many ciruits on one fuse and melt your fuse block, your truck will burn

 

You also need a relay on any high load system like your ignition, headlights, horn, starter, heater and so on. Without relays to support the loads they pull you will have fire eventually and your truck will burn.

 

A distribution block for the power supply of those high loads is also a really good idea.

 

This is all because hot wires melt and cause fire. The more load you pull thru a system the hotter your wires will get and they do melt and they do catch on fire. If they do, your truck will burn.

 

How do you think about 50% of CARBQ's start? Hint, leaking gas is the other 50% ;)

 

The more safeguards the better. The more you know about the system you are modifying the better.

 

Start counting your circuits, write them down; headlights, parking lights, heater, wipers, etc...you'll soon see 6 fuses are not very many...:mellow:

 

...don't forget to add in that bumpin stereo you wanna run :)

 

Sorry for the hijack deadmonkey....:blush:

[deadmonkey]

lol, no worries. IT WILL BURN! haha

 

seriously though, currently the wires hanging down scare me a bit. I just pray they are all fused.

[deadmonkey]

OK...

 

so I haven't posted on this project in a very long time. I have been working so much I haven't had time!

 

The plan is to get this truck looking good and running good too by the end of the summer.

 

I picked up some bucket seats for $19.95 a piece at a salvage yard. They are a steel! They are sporty looking, not sure what they are out of, but they are grey and black with lumbar support, little handle to slide back and forth, a handle so they can lean forward and a pouch in the back. The drivers side one even has a motor to raise/lower the seat :) SCORE!

 

I have a new automatic choke. Not sure how to get the carbs setup properly though. I have a webber carb and rebuilt it awhile ago, but never set it up properly with the idle. My Idle screw is all the way down and still doesn't idle properly.

 

I still don't have a wiper fluid reservoir nor do I have the pump and hoses

 

I got pulled over for the tint that is still in there from the guy I bought it from. Little too dark for the Idaho coppers I guess. Didn't get a ticket, but got the warning :)

=====================================

I'm not sure what to tackle first. If anybody can give me some insight one what I should tackle first it would be greatly appreciated.

EXTERIOR

- There is body work, and paint prep work of course, but I need something to cover/replace the back end below the tailgate. Maybe a body kit? but I can't find any.

- Weather stripping of front and back windows (not to mention a new windshield)

- Weld over the blinker/reflector holes

- And of course some bondo here and there

- Picking a color is still in the back of my mind

 

ENGINE

- I need a new intake manifold since one of the bolt holes is stripped out

- Got an aftermarket coolant overflow finally

- Need to wire horn

- Need to get new Automatic Choke installed (but Webber's instructions don't help me)

- THOUGH... to be honest I want to EV this truck someday :)

 

INTERIOR

- Re-carpet cab

- Replace bench seat with bucket seats

- NEED a new instrument cluster since the one I have is not for my truck

- NEED the plastic cover for dash/instrument panel Or some kind of after market replacement

- Need to either replace, or manufacture cardboard and covering for doors

- Need to either replace or manufacture the headliner

[deadmonkey]

Bump!

 

put in the bucket seats I got, Looks good, but it seems crowded in their now. Not sure if there is much I can do about that. The seats don't have the room to tilt back since they have to be slid back too far to give the room to tilt. So it seems like I'm sitting up straight as a board. The seats are roughly the same size height as the bench seat, but the stock bench had more cush and give when you sat down, so you sunk down farther. The new seats aren't like that at all.

 

I may just put the bench back in and sell or mount the seats in the bed facing backwards maybe. Any help with somebody who has done this before would be great.

 

Pictures to come soon.

[deadmonkey]

Hello again!

I haven't posted in awhile, but have been working on the truck now and again. I've been making a mad dash to get it running again before the snow flies. Can't drive the motorcycle on the snow now can I :)

 

I will post pictures soon, but I went to re-carpet the inside... man what a mess. Who ever had the truck last, attempted to weld in a new floor and failed miserably. I tore that out and welded in a new floor, effectively removing all rusty spots from the drivers side. There was only a small square on the passenger side that needed attention.

 

I sanded down and resealed all the joints on the inside that needed them. Put a nice primer rust seal down and will Re-carpet it all once I get the new wiring harness put in.

 

I will probably have many questions when it comes to the wiring job. Has anybody ever done a rewire job? If so, have any pointers?

[Charlie69]

Hi deadmonkey,

 

Great project and great work you are doing on it.

 

Take your time with the wiring. Study the instructions sheet thoroughly before starting. Make a check list of what the new harness has in it and identify (familiarize yourself with the new harness) the actual circuits. Take masking tape and label all the different circuts in the new harness so if you are working in a shadow you can still read what each circuit is. Do the same with the truck wiring. Make notes on everyyhing even small things for future reference.

 

Lay the new harness out on the floor or a large table near your truck and place the wiring where you believe all circuits will go. This will help you identify what circuits will feed together and the actual paths of the wiring.

 

Also before you pull the old wiring out of the the roof and door pillars tie an good nylon string to the wires and electrical tape over the knott for added protection. this will allow you to pull in the new wires with the string. I have tried pulling new wiring in with the old existing wires and had them break on me, so now I take a little extra time in the beginning and pull sring in.

 

Start in the morning when you are well rested and if you get tired stop and then start on it again after you rested. Do not expect to complete it in one day and if you great.

 

The more notes you make the better. You will have more circuits than you will use. Example power windows and door locks. My advise on these extra circuits is go ahead and pull them to where they would be if you were using them and terminate these wires at that point so they cannot short out. This way in the future the wires are in place if you decide to add these options. Clamp or tie all wires whenever possible to protect them besure not to pull wires to tight leave a little give in them.

 

If there are any questions you might have please PM me and if I know the answer I will PM you back, if I don't know the answer I will not BS you I will tell you I don' know.

 

I am not sure but you carb might have an anti-deiseling solenoid on it this will require a wire also that might not be in the new harness.

[]2eDeYe]

Where's those pic's :)

[deadmonkey]

@ charlie69; Good advice... though I already tore out the dash wiring, it was a complete disaster! All the other wiring is gone, save the factory blinker wiring to the back, including the gas tank stuff and fuel pump and what is left of the engine harness.

 

I got my diagram from

http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm

 

Though the '75 seems to be more acurate. the '76 shows two coils and I only have one, the '75 diagram shows the one ignition coil.

 

The new harness references a "Neutral safety switch" to wire with the large ceramic resistor. The diagram calls something an "Inhibitor switch" I'm wondering if that is the same thing. If so, where the heck is it?1

 

Also, if somebody has or knows a thread in here that shows a good pic of a 620 engine wiring I'm sure it would help greatly.

 

2eDeYe;202696'']Where's those pic's :)

yeah, about that... I left my camera at a friends place labor day weekend :( I have them, I promise.

Edited September 9, 2009 by deadmonkey

[Charlie69]

Hi Deadmonkey,

 

The inhibitor switch is the same as the nuetral safety switch. The inhibitor switch is on an automatic trans and the nuetral safety switch is on a standard trans.

 

I have a 1976 620 service manual. Let me know what you need and I will make scans of the pages and email them to you. PM me with your email address.

[deadmonkey]

Thanks!

 

Took a gander at the L20B rebuild... Gorgeous!

Pitty mine may never look like that. Maybe if I transplant it into a different truck. Don't think I'd spend that much time and effort on this truck.

[Charlie69]

Thank you for the complement. Did you look at the 66 I am putting the motor in.

 

You are doing your wiring the easy way. I have 5 harnesses that I am taking pieces from and I am still looking for 2 more for other circuits that I do not have yet. When I get it done I will draw up the wiring harness as I built it and it will be consistent with Datsun/Nissan color codes.

[deadmonkey]

LOL... Easy way he says :)

The easy way would not have been to buy this lemon in the first place!

[deadmonkey]

OK... Told ya I'd post pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is what I have done so far of the engine.

I got the coil hooked up right and the starter/Regulator is hooked up. I have one wire that I don't now about from the kit. It is labeled "Alternator Exciter". I'm only assuming it is the field coil they are talking about. There are two plugs that are supposed to goto the regulator (Y and WB), a B for body ground and WR for Battery. I can only assume, by looking at the wiring diagram, that WB is for the field coil.... Knowing what I do about 3-phase generators and all. The other Y should be the armature.

 

I finally figured out what the "extra" stuff is in the diagram too. there is a "C" in a circle for "California" and a "A" for "Automatic". Makes Soo much more sense. :) There is the "Detector Drive Counter" That I took out. I have no Idea what it is for. Anybody else know? Can I leave it out, or does it have some function for stuff under the dash or somthin'?

 

Not the best pic of the back side of the intake/Carbs, but I do have questions about what the previous owner did back there. All the hoses, pipes, etc have been disconnected, crimped, cut, etc. Wondering if this is kosher or what.

Edited September 13, 2009 by deadmonkey