Where to Buy a Weber Carburetor Conversion?

[MaxChlan]

I am starting to think about converting my 85 720 to a Weber 32/36 DGEV. I have heard about fake Weber redline carbs, so where is a trusted source for buying a legitimate carb that also is a kit that comes with the adaptor for the Z24? Has anyone bought from this seller? 

[weldingrod]

I would think any trusted auto supply outlet would sell you the genuine article. If someone else is offering you one at a "real good price" then remember if it sounds too good to be true it probably is.

[MaxChlan]

Fair enough! Is there a decent write up on this swap? I remember reading it but I can not find it now, and the search features on Ratsun are kinda buns. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I got mine from Webercarbsdirect.com

Pierce Manifolds also. many places really

[banzai510(hainz)]

thats siteas its a Spain made carb like the one I have 

[damesta]

I've bought from these guys:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391998962829

 

Everything seems legit, no problems, good customer service.

[difrangia]

I'd recommend Pierce Manifolds. Somebody like Pierce can help you with any jetting mods and good stock of parts that might be needed.

 

Be sure 'Made in Spain' is cast into the body; so it's not a knock-off.

 

Another indicator, in my studies, is that the plastic choke heater housing is white instead of black. Not 100% sure, but check into it.

 

"The Internet is a Terrible Thing to Waste"

[damesta]

1 hour ago, difrangia said:

I'd recommend Pierce Manifolds. Somebody like Pierce can help you with any jetting mods and good stock of parts that might be needed.

 

Be sure 'Made in Spain' is cast into the body; so it's not a knock-off.

 

Another indicator, in my studies, is that the plastic choke heater housing is white instead of black. Not 100% sure, but check into it.

 

"The Internet is a Terrible Thing to Waste"

 

I could be wrong but I was under the impression all Weber electric choke covers were white and manual choke covers were black.

 

 

[DIY 1985]

It is nice to get one with a float bowl vent to go with the stock charcoal canister.  I don't know for certain, but it would make sense that vapor in the bowl could cause extra pressure on the jets with a needle valve that stays open, because the return line is lower than the fuel inlet on the air horn, and the fuel pump keeps delivering as to not let the air thru the return.  Plus, I can't find a vacuum cap that won't disintegrate in 4 months for the float bowl side of the charcoal canister.  Ask the techs at Pierce, but I got my DGV kit from a popular auction site, it was legit.

[MaxChlan]

Okay, it seems like this is a reputable source then. I am thinking about doing this swap because I've been getting shitty gas mileage (like 12-15), and I am simply tired of looking at the giant mess of bullshit vacuum lines in the engine bay. There is probably a leak somewhere, maybe some switch/valve is frozen, who knows. It seems like a lot of fussing around for what seems to be an inferior carburetor to the Weber. Seems easy enough: remove the old carb, plug all the holes and leave the hose vacuum advance, brake booster, and charcoal canister, Clean engine bay so I can, you know, actually grab the oil filter when I'm doing an oil change. ?

[datzenmike]

27 minutes ago, DIY 1985 said:

It is nice to get one with a float bowl vent to go with the stock charcoal canister.  I don't know for certain, but it would make sense that vapor in the bowl could cause extra pressure on the jets with a needle valve that stays open, because the return line is lower than the fuel inlet on the air horn, and the fuel pump keeps delivering as to not let the air thru the return.  Plus, I can't find a vacuum cap that won't disintegrate in 4 months for the float bowl side of the charcoal canister.  Ask the techs at Pierce, but I got my DGV kit from a popular auction site, it was legit.

 

The fuel bowl is vented one way or another. I believe the vent to the outside air is between the two barrels so the fumes are sucked into the engine. If it were sealed, the venturi wouldn't be able to suck fuel out. Like trying to suck beer out of a bottle without letting any air in. 

[Charlie69]

I have been doing business (Webers) with Pierce Manifolds for over 30 years and have had no problems.

[DrvnDrvr]

If you don't have to smog it, go for it. I'm running a 38/38 weber with the smog delete and getting 20/22 mpg on the highway.

MPG goes right in the toilet when I go low range and 4WD offroad.

The Z24 is what it is. A 4 banger that runs good with proper maintenance.

The 35 year old smog stuff just gives the leak gremlins a place to hide.

The Pierce Manifolds Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion kit would be a good way to go.

The 38/38 is too much for a daily driver.

 

 

[MaxChlan]

On 11/20/2018 at 3:01 PM, difrangia said:

I'd recommend Pierce Manifolds. Somebody like Pierce can help you with any jetting mods and good stock of parts that might be needed.

 

Be sure 'Made in Spain' is cast into the body; so it's not a knock-off.

 

Another indicator, in my studies, is that the plastic choke heater housing is white instead of black. Not 100% sure, but check into it.

 

"The Internet is a Terrible Thing to Waste"

Looked on the Pierce Manifold website, and their choke heater housing is black? Which color is the genuine? I've seen both white and black.