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About damesta

  • Rank
  • Birthday 09/02/1981

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Cars
    1972 Datsun 240z & 1972 Datsun 620
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

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  1. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Haven't been on a computer yet to watch the video but I will watch it. That wire is just a temp power to the electric choke from the ballast. Ive read there should be a power wire from the firewall but I couldn't find it so who knows. This will be redone when I wire it permanently.
  2. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Alright, I think I got everything figured out and dialed in with the points distributor. I guess if I ever install the electronic distributor I just have to move the wires around to correspond to where the rotor on that distributor is pointing, correct?
  3. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Thanks, I think I have the TDC mark all good now using a combo of watching the piston and feeling it with the screwdriver. Now I'm just curious if the shaft is installed correctly or not. It's close to where is should be but neither of the two distributors I have point toward the #1 plug hole while the engines at TDC, the old points distributor I've been running points almost horizontal to the right, the other new rebuilt electronic distributor I haven't installed yet points almost horizontal to the left. So why are these 2 distributors different? I've always read that the rotor should point at the #1 plug hole when the motors at TDC, banzai510 mentioned that above as well.
  4. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Alright, redid my tdc mark with just the piston as reference. Now the shaft is slightly cocked toward 11:00 more than before, however the distributor rotor is pointing to the right, not up toward the #1 plug. So what does all of this mean, is it just pointing the wrong way because of the pedestal/distributor combo or is the shaft off a tooth?
  5. damesta

    Carb advice for 620 w/ L20b

    Exactly why I didn't end u going with 38/38. I'm playing with a weber 32/36 right now just because it was so cheap. If I decide I like it I'll keep it, if not the su's are getting rebuilt and going back on.
  6. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Great, thanks for the help guys...I think I have enough info to get it close now....as close as possible without the right indicator anyway. When I was trying to set it at TDC before I was using both the piston and V notch on the cam gear, I think if I redo my TDC marks and use only the piston travel as reference and get it right in the middle of the time the #1 is floating at the top then the distributor shaft will probably be a tiny bit further back at 11:00 where its supposed to be. So just knowing the v notch doesn't correspond with TDC makes me think the shaft is probably stabbed correctly after all.
  7. damesta

    Carb advice for 620 w/ L20b

    I've never used an airbox so thats not a problem I've ever had and all the syncing/balancing linkage stuff I had already learned from the last few 240z's I've buily with su's....I never knew you could remove and clean the jet nozzle though, that's interesting, never heard anyone mention that before.
  8. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    Well that sucks, so if you don't have the correct pulley mark/ pointer there's no real way to confirm TDC other than watching the piston?
  9. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    I already marked the pulley, looked through the plug hole and lined the V/notch up on the cam gear at the same time so I think I have a good TDC mark now unless I did something wrong. I could possibly measure and make the 5 degree increment btdc marks if someone gives me measurements....but seems like it may be easier to just use the advance feature on my timing light.
  10. damesta

    Help with timing issues on L20b with wrong indicator....

    It has ran the entire time, but runs much better with it set like this. I'm really just trying figure out where my timing actually is so I can get it set accurately, the PO had it set way off, like -5 degrees from what I can tell and it ran like shit when I got it. I've been looking with no luck at all, all I can find is the 6 cylinder pointers and they are different afaik looking that the part numbers. I have no clue where this pointer is from if it's not from the L16. I have no idea which pedestal I have. I'll check the rotor at TDC tomorrow and see where it's pointing.
  11. Time for me to finally get the timing on this motor sorted and need some opinions...and would like you guys to double check my methodology here to make sure what I'm doing will actually work and give me an accurate timing measurement. This was mentioned in a different thread but haven't gotten this issue figured out yet. Long story short, this is a 72 620, L20b was swapped in by PO, it has a crank pulley with a single mark and also a single timing pointer on the front cover that I'm guessing is from the old L16 it used to have...I do not have the saw tooth indicator that should be on this motor and I can't find one anywhere. So.....first thing, the factory TDC mark on the pulley does not line up with the pointer while motor is at TDC....obviously this is not a matching pulley/indicator set, so that's not surprising. I'm thinking if I make a new TDC mark on the pulley that corresponds with the pointer then I can make an accurate measurement by setting the advance on my timing light to 12 degrees and then just line the mark and indicator up while setting the timing. Second issue is that I think that the oil pump shaft was stabbed a tooth or two off, at TDC it is vertical and should be at around 11 o'clock. So far I have put the motor at TDC, only cranking by hand clockwise so no slack in the chain, and verified TDC by watching the piston through the #1 plug hole and lining up the cam gear V and notch. Then I made a new mark on the crank pulley to line up with the pointer (top mark is my new TDC mark, bottom is the factory mark). With the new timing mark I then set my advance timing light to 12 degrees and set the timing by lining the new pulley mark up with the pointer at 750 rpm. Will this work the way I'm doing it or is my methodology totally screwed up here? The other issue I'm not clear on is how the shaft being off a tooth or two effects all of this. There is enough free play in the distributor and adjustment plate that is sandwiched between the distributor and pedestal that I can still easily hit 12 degrees while setting the timing, but obviously the dizzy is off to the side of its adjustment range. Does the shaft need to be pulled and stabbed correctly to accurately set the timing or can I just use it like this as long there is enough adjustment in the distributor to get the timing where it needs to be?
  12. Time Left: 22 days and 11 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a stock manifold and downpipe to replace the crappy old header on my L20b. Will pay to ship.


  13. damesta

    Carb advice for 620 w/ L20b

    Alright, emailed Jeff. If he can get it done in a reasonable amount of time I'll just keep the su's.
  14. damesta

    Carb advice for 620 w/ L20b

    This is an L20b w/ A87 head, if I go 38/38 it will be on the redline performance manifold made for the carb and kit includes their air filter. I agree with you on the used SU's...I have never had any luck with them, I love new or good fresh rebuilt SU's, they are great and easy to tune...but every time I have tried to set up used ones I'm just running in circles trying to fix multiple problems. I really make a point to try to start with brand new carbs whenever I can now, just too much bs trying to use old ones. The hitachi 340 may be a better option worth looking into at least, just to get this truck going and reliable without dealing with pros/cons of everything else right now. I just don't know which way to even go with webers anymore, everyone has different advice on them....half love them and say they are super easy to tune, half hate them and say they are difficult....half (including redline themselves) say the 32/36 is too small for 2000cc motor, other half say 32/36 is perfect size.....some people say drivability is shit with 38/38, other half say they have never had any drivability issues at all and drive them normally....so I really have no idea which way to go. 38/38 would seem to be the safest and most future upgrade proof carbs to invest in where I could adapt and tune them to any upgrades down the line....but I really have no idea any more. How difficult is the hitachi 340 to tune properly, they look simple from my very limited knowledge on them. Is there somewhere to get a NOS 340 or high quality reman unit that you know of? I see these reman factory replacement carbs everywhere, ebay, oriellys, autozone, etc but none of them really have any details on the model. Are these all 340s?
  15. damesta

    Carb advice for 620 w/ L20b

    That's pretty much exactly what I was thinking...but like I said before, z therapy doesn't even recommend running these carbs on anything bigger than an L18, and I trust their recommendations. Plus I don't want to spend 700+ and wait months to get my carbs back...so I am back to looking at 38/38 webers now.

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