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About damesta

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  • Birthday 09/02/1981

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  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Cars
    1970 521
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

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  1. Thanks for all the info. I have a few different pedestals and timing plates here so hopefully I can get something to line up. If not I guess I'll be modding a plate and/or moving the spindle. I'll figure it out.
  2. Thanks for the help Mike. I've already done a full timing set and KA oil pump on this motor so I'm familiar with all of that stuff. When I did the pump I stabbed the spindle correctly as pictured. Was thinking I'd just put the motor at tdc and put the new dizzy in and then position plug wires accordingly to rotor position. That should work, correct? Or am I missing something with the spindle position? Was really more concerned with if the new distributor bolt holes would actually line up with the stock 521 timing plate.
  3. Quick question for those that have done the conversion. I'm in the process of planning out and gathering parts for my 521/L16 electronic distributor swap. I'm planning on ordering the Cardone reman 31-620, 4 prong GM HEI and matching coil, cap, and rotor. What I can't seem to find a straight answer on is the pedestal/timing plate I will need. I have stock pedestals/plates from 521's and 620's. The cardone 31-620 is listed for the 78' 510....so do I need to hunt down a 510 pedestal/plate or will mine work...or need to be modified to work? Thanks in advance.
  4. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    Correct, probably 12ish gauge wire. Downside is it can be tripped a lot easier than a fusible link can be blown. As Mike has said several times, the fusible link wire can handle a few hundred amps for a few seconds, the circuit breaker will trip as soon as anything over 40 amps hits it. Sure you can pull over and reset it real quick, but it may do it relatively often depending on your setup. Fusible link still gets my vote..but fuses or circuit breakers will definitely work. Pick your poison.
  5. I could be wrong but I was under the impression all Weber electric choke covers were white and manual choke covers were black.
  6. I've bought from these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/391998962829 Everything seems legit, no problems, good customer service.
  7. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I can confirm the size on my 72, most had been cut off but I found a short section of the original green fusible link still attached when I replaced mine, and the copper wire itself (not the coating) was actually a tiny bit smaller than the new 20g fusible link wire I bought when I measured it. 20g seems small for sure but works absolutely fine for me.
  8. My 72 does the same thing with the door locks, holding the handle up doesn't do anything. The lock will not physically turn and latch unless the door is closed. So you can only lock it by the knob from inside the truck....or with the key from outside.
  9. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I didn't even notice I didn't have a fusible link on my 72' 620 until I saw this thread, previous owner apparently got rid of it for straight 12 gauge wire. 20 gauge does seem really small but I'm assuming that's the size I should install even though I don't know if the original one was green or not. I picked up a full 50ft roll of 20g fusible link wire to make a few, if anyone can't find 20g let me know and I'll send you some for postage. I'm never going to use all of it.
  10. I'm not disagreeing with any of that....but I can't buy a new Hitachi anywhere and a 50 year old oem junkyard alt with unknown history is just as much of a gamble in my opinion. This is why I have an aftermarket voltage gauge I keep a close eye on. I also have free towing/roadside assistance with my insurance and another vehicle and car hauler at home I can use if I need to. What's the better alternative? Are there any really good quality remans or new alts out there?
  11. I agree, but at least they are cheap (most only 30-40 after the core) and Autozone.com has free next day shipping on most of them now as well if your local store doesn't carry them. I fully expect I will have to replace them every 2-3 years...bonus if I get more than that out of it but I don't drive the truck a whole lot, so I guess we'll see.
  12. I do have a voltage meter in my lighter I watch so I stay on top of it. Alternator seems fine so far, drove around today with the old mechanical regulator in with no problems. I guess I'll see what happens when the replacement solid state gets here, hopefully it will last a while. If not maybe I'll order a Wells mechanical or look into an IR alternator.
  13. So the 78 200sx internally regulated bolts in the same, correct? The mod your talking about just bypassing the voltage regulator?
  14. Because 60 amps is enough for my needs, it bolts straight up with no mods, and I already own it.
  15. I'd have to buy another alternator from a 78 to bypass the external voltage regulator though, I already have the 77 alternator. I bought the solid state because I read multiple places they we're better than the mechanical ones. I have the mechanical one that came with the truck hooked up now and working fine but I don't think it's oem. So what's the best choice at this point? A new mechanical regulator for a 72 620 that will plug straight in....or do I need to spend the extra money to get one from a 77 200sx and wire it in?
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