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damesta

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About damesta

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/02/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Cars
    1970 521
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

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  1. Wayno and Mike mentioned this above but you didn't really reply to it so I'll say it again. In your pics it looks like your sitting on your bump stops. With a 3 or 4 inch set of blocks like yours you really need to completely remove your bump stops or you will constantly be hitting the axle on them....that is if it's not actually already sitting on them. Remove your bump stops and test out how it feels, should be totally different.
  2. Lasted a few months iirc. Spectra Premium a1301mp is a gold top pump, got it at AutoZone with free next day delivery.
  3. I had one of these Carter pumps on my 521/L16 for awhile. It completely died on me 2 weeks ago, only pump I've ever had on any L series motor abruptly fail like that. I replaced it with a spectra premium...not stock looking but best reviews out of all that I looked at and I had one on an L28 for years with no issues...so far so good.
  4. Having problems with the rubber shift boot on my 70' 521. So I originally ordered the one they sell on ebay listed for the 521 and it was pretty much the same size as the hole and wouldn't stay in. So then I did some research and found pn 74963-15800, so found one NOS and ordered it. It fits the hole fine but every time I shift into reverse it pops the boot out of the hole...seems like it needs a bigger lip holding it in or softer rubber maybe, I heated it and it was a little better but pops right out as soon as its back down to ambient air temps. Anyone else had these problems? Are there any other pn's or boots to try that would fit the hole? I'm trying to stay away from a generic screw down universal boot if possible.
  5. Thanks for all the info. I have a few different pedestals and timing plates here so hopefully I can get something to line up. If not I guess I'll be modding a plate and/or moving the spindle. I'll figure it out.
  6. Thanks for the help Mike. I've already done a full timing set and KA oil pump on this motor so I'm familiar with all of that stuff. When I did the pump I stabbed the spindle correctly as pictured. Was thinking I'd just put the motor at tdc and put the new dizzy in and then position plug wires accordingly to rotor position. That should work, correct? Or am I missing something with the spindle position? Was really more concerned with if the new distributor bolt holes would actually line up with the stock 521 timing plate.
  7. Quick question for those that have done the conversion. I'm in the process of planning out and gathering parts for my 521/L16 electronic distributor swap. I'm planning on ordering the Cardone reman 31-620, 4 prong GM HEI and matching coil, cap, and rotor. What I can't seem to find a straight answer on is the pedestal/timing plate I will need. I have stock pedestals/plates from 521's and 620's. The cardone 31-620 is listed for the 78' 510....so do I need to hunt down a 510 pedestal/plate or will mine work...or need to be modified to work? Thanks in advance.
  8. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    Correct, probably 12ish gauge wire. Downside is it can be tripped a lot easier than a fusible link can be blown. As Mike has said several times, the fusible link wire can handle a few hundred amps for a few seconds, the circuit breaker will trip as soon as anything over 40 amps hits it. Sure you can pull over and reset it real quick, but it may do it relatively often depending on your setup. Fusible link still gets my vote..but fuses or circuit breakers will definitely work. Pick your poison.
  9. I could be wrong but I was under the impression all Weber electric choke covers were white and manual choke covers were black.
  10. I've bought from these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/391998962829 Everything seems legit, no problems, good customer service.
  11. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I can confirm the size on my 72, most had been cut off but I found a short section of the original green fusible link still attached when I replaced mine, and the copper wire itself (not the coating) was actually a tiny bit smaller than the new 20g fusible link wire I bought when I measured it. 20g seems small for sure but works absolutely fine for me.
  12. My 72 does the same thing with the door locks, holding the handle up doesn't do anything. The lock will not physically turn and latch unless the door is closed. So you can only lock it by the knob from inside the truck....or with the key from outside.
  13. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I didn't even notice I didn't have a fusible link on my 72' 620 until I saw this thread, previous owner apparently got rid of it for straight 12 gauge wire. 20 gauge does seem really small but I'm assuming that's the size I should install even though I don't know if the original one was green or not. I picked up a full 50ft roll of 20g fusible link wire to make a few, if anyone can't find 20g let me know and I'll send you some for postage. I'm never going to use all of it.
  14. I'm not disagreeing with any of that....but I can't buy a new Hitachi anywhere and a 50 year old oem junkyard alt with unknown history is just as much of a gamble in my opinion. This is why I have an aftermarket voltage gauge I keep a close eye on. I also have free towing/roadside assistance with my insurance and another vehicle and car hauler at home I can use if I need to. What's the better alternative? Are there any really good quality remans or new alts out there?
  15. I agree, but at least they are cheap (most only 30-40 after the core) and Autozone.com has free next day shipping on most of them now as well if your local store doesn't carry them. I fully expect I will have to replace them every 2-3 years...bonus if I get more than that out of it but I don't drive the truck a whole lot, so I guess we'll see.
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