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About damesta

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  • Birthday 09/02/1981

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  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Cars
    1972 Datsun 620
  • Occupation
    Self Employed

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  1. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    Correct, probably 12ish gauge wire. Downside is it can be tripped a lot easier than a fusible link can be blown. As Mike has said several times, the fusible link wire can handle a few hundred amps for a few seconds, the circuit breaker will trip as soon as anything over 40 amps hits it. Sure you can pull over and reset it real quick, but it may do it relatively often depending on your setup. Fusible link still gets my vote..but fuses or circuit breakers will definitely work. Pick your poison.
  2. I could be wrong but I was under the impression all Weber electric choke covers were white and manual choke covers were black.
  3. I've bought from these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/391998962829 Everything seems legit, no problems, good customer service.
  4. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I can confirm the size on my 72, most had been cut off but I found a short section of the original green fusible link still attached when I replaced mine, and the copper wire itself (not the coating) was actually a tiny bit smaller than the new 20g fusible link wire I bought when I measured it. 20g seems small for sure but works absolutely fine for me.
  5. My 72 does the same thing with the door locks, holding the handle up doesn't do anything. The lock will not physically turn and latch unless the door is closed. So you can only lock it by the knob from inside the truck....or with the key from outside.
  6. damesta

    Correct Fusible Link?

    I didn't even notice I didn't have a fusible link on my 72' 620 until I saw this thread, previous owner apparently got rid of it for straight 12 gauge wire. 20 gauge does seem really small but I'm assuming that's the size I should install even though I don't know if the original one was green or not. I picked up a full 50ft roll of 20g fusible link wire to make a few, if anyone can't find 20g let me know and I'll send you some for postage. I'm never going to use all of it.
  7. I'm not disagreeing with any of that....but I can't buy a new Hitachi anywhere and a 50 year old oem junkyard alt with unknown history is just as much of a gamble in my opinion. This is why I have an aftermarket voltage gauge I keep a close eye on. I also have free towing/roadside assistance with my insurance and another vehicle and car hauler at home I can use if I need to. What's the better alternative? Are there any really good quality remans or new alts out there?
  8. I agree, but at least they are cheap (most only 30-40 after the core) and Autozone.com has free next day shipping on most of them now as well if your local store doesn't carry them. I fully expect I will have to replace them every 2-3 years...bonus if I get more than that out of it but I don't drive the truck a whole lot, so I guess we'll see.
  9. I do have a voltage meter in my lighter I watch so I stay on top of it. Alternator seems fine so far, drove around today with the old mechanical regulator in with no problems. I guess I'll see what happens when the replacement solid state gets here, hopefully it will last a while. If not maybe I'll order a Wells mechanical or look into an IR alternator.
  10. So the 78 200sx internally regulated bolts in the same, correct? The mod your talking about just bypassing the voltage regulator?
  11. Because 60 amps is enough for my needs, it bolts straight up with no mods, and I already own it.
  12. I'd have to buy another alternator from a 78 to bypass the external voltage regulator though, I already have the 77 alternator. I bought the solid state because I read multiple places they we're better than the mechanical ones. I have the mechanical one that came with the truck hooked up now and working fine but I don't think it's oem. So what's the best choice at this point? A new mechanical regulator for a 72 620 that will plug straight in....or do I need to spend the extra money to get one from a 77 200sx and wire it in?
  13. I can't really find a straight answer on this, are voltage regulators made to regulate within a certain amperage and pair with specific alternators...or are all the Datsun regulators pretty much the same with different plugs? I recently installed a 60 amp alt from a 77' 200sx in my 72' 620, I replaced the voltage regulator with a new AC Delco solid state unit for a 72' 620 at the same time...this was just over a week ago, all was well for a week, battery was charging and I was pulling just over 14v while driving. Started the truck today and the charge light stayed on and now I'm only pulling about 12v while driving...I thought the alternator was going out but decided to swap in the old 620 voltage regulator before messing with the alternator and sure enough, everything was back to normal with the old regulator. Swapped the new solid state back again in to verify as well and it is definitely the problem. So I'm curious if I unintentionally burned this new regulator up by running it on a 60 amp alternator when it was made for the stock 35 amp....or did I just get a shitty regulator that failed within a week? Two options moving forward are to exchange this vr for another of the same model, it is under warranty....or I can buy a matching regulator for my alternator from a 77' 200sx and wire the plug on to fit my 72' 620. Any advice?
  14. Time Left: 10 days and 11 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a full set for a 72, let me know what you have. Thanks.


  15. How bad is the one on the right? Like a complete waste of time don't buy it bad....or just not quite as good as the one on the left? Curious because I can get one locally cheap.
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